TWENTY  YEARS 


IN 


THE    PHILIPPINES 


TRANSLATED  FKOM  TIIK  FKEXCH  OK 


PAUL    P.    DE    LA    GIP^ONIERE, 

I'TILCVALISR   OF   THE    ORDER    OF   THE    LEGION  OK   HONOR. 


Rjviscd  and  Extended  by  the  Author,  expressly  for  this  Edition. 


Portrait  of  the  Author. 


NEW    YORK: 

HARPER  &  BROTHERS,  PUBLISHERS, 

329     &     331     PEARL     STREET, 

FRANKLIN     SQUARE. 

1854. 


CONTENTS. 


Ulnstrations •••••••         «-•        11 

Preface t  13 

CHAPTER   L 

A  Family  Sketch— My  Youthful  Days— I  Study  for  the  Medical  Pro 
fession — Obtain  a  Naval  Surgeon's  Diploma — Early  Voyages 
—Sail  for  Manilla  in  the  Cultivateur— Adventurous  Habits — 
Cholera  and  Massacre  at  Manilla  and  Cavite— Captain  Drouant's 
Piescue — Personal  Dangers  and  Timely  Escapes— How  Business 
may  make  Friends  of  one's  Enemies — An  Unprincipled  Cap 
tain—Tranquillity  restored  at  Manilla — Pleasures  of  the  Chase 
— The  Cultivateur  sails  without  me — First  Embarrassments  .  ?7 

CHAPTER    II. 

Description  of  Manilla— The  two  Towns— Gaiety  of  Binondoc — 
Dances — Gaming — Beauty  of  the  Women — Their  Fascinating 
Costume— Male  Costume— The  Military  Town— Personal  Ad 
ventures—My  First  Patient — His  Generous  Confidence— Com 
mencement  of  my  Practice— The  Artificial  Eye— Brilliant 
Success — The  Charming  Widow — Auspicious  Introduction — 
My  Marriage— Treachery  and  Fate  of  Iturbide— Our  Loss  of 
Fortune — Return  to  France  postponed «<2 


VJ  CONTENTS. 

Pap? 

CHAPTER    III. 

Continued  Prosperity  in  Practice  —  Attempted  Political  Revolution 

—  Desperate  Street  Engagement  —  Subjugation    of   the    In 
surgents  —  The  Emperor   of  a  Day  —  Dreadful  Executions  — 
Illness  and  Insanity  of  my  Wife  —  Her  Recovery  and  Relapse 

—  Removal  to  the  Country  —  Beneficial  Results  —  Dangerous 
Neighbours  —  Repentant  Banditti  —  Fortunate  Escape  —  The 
Anonymous  Friend  —  A  Confiding  Wife  —  Her  Final  Recovery, 

and  our  Domestic  Happiness  restored      ........        4'/ 


CHAPTER    IV. 

Hunting  the  Stag  —  Indian  Mode  of  Chasing  the  Wild  Buffalo  :  its 
Ferocity  —  Dangerous  Sport  —  Capture  of  a  Buffalo—Narrow 
Escape  of  an  Indian  Hunter  —  Return  to  Manilla  —  Injustice  of 
the  Governor  —  My  Resignation  of  Office  —  I  Purchase  Property 
at  Jala-Jala  —  Retire  from  Manilla  to  take  Possession  of  my 
Domains  —  Chinese  Legend  —  Festival  of  St.  Nicholas  —  Quina- 
boutasan  —  Description  of  Jala-Jala  —  Interview  with  a  Bandit 
Chief  —  Formation  of  Guard  —  Preparations  for  Building— 
Visit  to  Manilla,  and  Return  to  Jala-Jala  —  Completion  of  my 
House  —  Reception  of  my  Wife  by  the  Natives  —  The  Govern 
ment  of  the  Philippines  —  Character  of  the  Tagaloc  Indians  — 
Unmerited  Chastisement  —  A  (Vr*»fe  Appointed  —  Our  Labours 
at  Civilisation  —  My  Hall  of  Justice  —  Buffalo  Hunting 
Expedition  .  ......  62 


CHAPTER    V. 

Description  of  my  House  at  Jala-  Jala—  Storms,  Gales,  and  Earth 
quakes—Reforming  the  Banditti—  Card-playing—  Tagal  Cock- 
lighting  —  Skirmishes  with  Robbers  —  Courage  of  my  Wife  — 


CONTENTS.  vil 

.'age 

Our  Domestic  Happiness  —  Visits  from  Europeans — Their 
Astonishment  at  our  Civilisation — Visit  to  a  Sick  Friend  at 
Manilla — Tour  through  the  Provinces  of  the  Ilocos  and  Pan- 
gasman  Indians — My  Reception  by  the  Tinguians — Their 
Appearance  and  Habits — Manners  and  Customs — Indian  Fett 
ut  Laganguilan  y  Madalag — Horrible  Ceremonies  to  Cele 
brate  a  V  ictory — Songs  and  Dances— Our  Night-watch — We 
Explore  our  Cabin — Discovery  of  a  Secret  Well — A  Tomb  of 
the  Tinguian  Indians 95 


CHAPTER   VI. 

Visit  to  Manabo — Conversation  with  my  Guide — Eeligion  of  the 
Tinguians — Their  Marriage  Ceremony  —  Funereal  Rites — 
Mode  of  Warfare — I  take  leave  of  the  Tinguians — Journey  to 
the  Igorrots  —  Description  of  them  —  Their  Dwellings — A 
Fortunate  Escape — Alila  and  the  Bandits — Recollections  of 
Home — A  Majestic  Fig-tree — Superstition  of  Alila — Inter 
view  with  an  Igorrot — The  Human  Hand — Nocturnal  Adven 
ture — Consternation  of  Alila — Probable  Origin  of  the  Tinguians 
and  Igorrots 117 


CHAPTER    VII. 

I  return  to  Jala-Jala — An  Excursion  on  the  Lake — Relempago's 
Narrative — Pie-organisation  of  my  Government — A  Letter  from 
my  Brother  Henry — His  Arrival — He  joins  me  in  the  Manage 
ment  of  my  Plantations — Cajoui,  the  Bandit :  Anten-Anten 
— Indian  Superstition — A  Combat  with  the  Bandit — His 
Death — A  Piratical  Descent — My  Lieutenant  is  Wounded — 1 
extract  the  Ball,  and  cure  him 139 


Viii  CONTENTS. 

K& 

CHAPTER    VIII. 

Death  of  my  Brother  Robert  —  Our  Party  at  Jala-  Jala  —  Illness  and 
Last  Moments  of  my  Friend  Bermigan  —  Recovery  and  Depar- 
i  ture  for  France  of  Lafond  —  Joachim  Balthazard  :  his  Eccen 
tricity  —  Tremendous  Gale  of  Wind  —  Narrow  Escape  in 
Crossing  the  Lake—  Safe  Return  to  Jala-  Jala  —  Destruction  of 
my  House  and  the  Village  by  a  Typhoon  —  Rendezvous  with  a 
Bandit  —  Ineffectual  Attempts  to  Reform  Him  —  His  Death  — 
Journey  to  Tapuzi  —  Its  Inaccessibility  —  Government  of  the 
Tapuzians  —  Morality  and  Religious  Character  of  their  Chief 
—  Their  Curiosity  at  beholding  a  White  Man  —  Former 
Wickedness  and  Divine  Punishment  —We  bid  adieu  to  the 
Tapuzians,  and  return  to  Jala-  Jala  .........  162 


CHAPTER    IX. 

Suppression  of  War  between  two  Indian  Towns  —  Flourishing  Con 
dition  of  Jala-Jala  —  Hospitality  to  Strangers  —  Field  Sports  — 
Bat  and  Lizard  Shooting  —  Visit  to,  and  Description  of,  the 
Isle  of  Socolme  —  Adventure  with  a  Cayman  —  Cormorants  — 
We  visit  Los  Banos  —  Monkey  Shooting  —  Expedition  to,  and 
Description  of,  the  Grotto  of  San-Mateo  —  Magnificent  aspert 
of  the  Interior  .  181 


CHAPTER    X. 

Duraont  d'Urville — Bear-Admiral  Laplace :  Desertion  of  Sailors 
from  his  Ship — I  recover  them  for  him — Origin  of  the  In 
habitants  of  the  Philippine  Islands — Their  General  Disposition 
— Hospitality  and  Respect  for  Old  Age — Tagal  Marriage  Cere 
mony — Indian  Legal  Eloquence — ^Explanation  of  the  Matri 
monial  Speeches — The  Caymans,  or  Alligators — Instances  of 


CONTENTS.  ix 

I'.v 

their  Ferocity—  Imprudence  and  Death  of  my  Shepherd- 
Method  of  Entrapping  the  Monster  whieh  had  devoured  him  — 
We  Attack  and  eventually  Capture  it  —  Its  Dimensions  —  We 
Dissect  and  Examine  the  Contents  of  its  Stomach  —  Boa-Con 
strictors  —  Their  large  size  —  Attack  of  a  Boa-Constrictor  on  a 
Wild  Boar  —  We  Kill  and  Skin  it  —  Unsuccessful  Attempt  to 
Capture  a  Boa-  Constrictor  alive  —  A  Man  Devoured  —  Dan 
gerous  Venomous  Eeptiles  ............  201 


CHAPTER    XL 

The  Prosperity  and  Happiness  of  my  Life  at  Jala-Jala  —  Destruc- 
tivencss  of  the  Locusts  —  Agriculture  in  the  Philippines  —  My 
Herds  of  Oxen,  Buffaloes,  and  Horses  —  My  Wife  presents  me 
with  a  Daughter,  who  dies  —  The  Admiration  of  the  Indian  » 
Women  for  my  Wife  —  Birth  of  my  Son—  Continued  Prosperity 
—  Death  of  my  Brother  Henry  —  My  Friendship  with  Malvi- 
lain  —  His  Marriage  with  my  eldest  Sister  —  His  Premature 
Death  —  I  take  my  Wife  to  Manilla  —  Melancholy  Adieus  —  We 
Return  to  Jala-Jala  —  Death  of  my  Wife  —  My  friend  Vidie  —  I 
determine  to  Return  to  France  ...........  228 


CHAPTER    XII. 

My  friend  Adolphe  Barrot  visits  me  at  Jala-Jala — The  Bamboo 
Cane — The  Cocoa-Nut  Tree — The  Banana — Majestic  Forests 

!of  Gigantic  Trees — The  Leeches — A  Tropical  Storm  in  a 
Forest — An  Indian  Bridge — "Bernard  the  Hermit" — We 
arrive  at  Binangonan-de-Lampon — The  Ajetas — Veneration  of 
the  Ajetas  for  their  Dead — Poison  used  hy  the  Ajetas — I  carry 
away  a  Skeleton — We  Embark  on  the  Pacific  in  an  old  CJIH.-KJ, 
reach  Maoban,  and  ultimately  arrive  «t  Jala- Jala  .... 


S  CONTENTS. 

Tatf: 

CHAPTER   XIII. 

]  Determine  not  again  to  Separate  from  my  Son — 1  take  him  to 
Manilla — The  Effects  of  the  Wound  I  received  among  the 
Ajetas — My  Recovery — Kindness  of  the  Spanish  and  other 
Inhabitants  of  Manilla — Illness  of  my  Son — I  return  with  him 
to  Jala- Jala — Sorrowful  Remembrances — The  Death  of  my 
poor  Boy — His  Interment — My  frantic  Grief  and  Despair — 
I  Determine  to  Quit  the  Philippines — I  am  Called  to  Manilla 
by  Madame  Dolores  Seneris — My  Final  Departure  from  Jala- 
Jala — I  Arrive  at  Manilla,  where  I  resume  Practice  as  a  Sur 
geon — I  Embark  for  France — Discontent — My  Travels  through 
Europe — I  Marry  again — Death  of  my  Mother  and  my  Second 
Wife — Conclusion  .  283 


STATISTICS  OF  THE  PHILIPPINE  ISLANDS.— Mechanical  and  Agri 
cultural  Products — I.  The  Soil  of  the  Island  of  Luzon,  and 
the  Sources  of  its  Fertility — II.  Rice— III.  Indigo— IV.  Tobacco 
—V.  Abaca,  or  Vegetable  Silk— VL  Coffee— VII.   Cacao— 
VIII.  Cotton— IX.  Pepper— X.  Wheat— XI.  Sugar  Cane— 
XII.  Bamboo— XIII.  The  Buffalo      .........      305 

AGRICULTURAL  IMPLEMENTS. — I.  The  Indian  Plough— II.  Yoke 
for  the  Buflaloes-III.  Lilit,  or  the  Indian  Sickle— IV.  The 
Comb  Harrow— V.  Guiligen,  or  Hand-Mill— VI.  The  Mortar.  331 

APPENDIX. — I.  Testimony  of  M.  Gabriel  Lafond 337 

II.  Testimony  of  H.  Hamilton  Lindsay,  Esq.     .     .    .       340 
Account  of  a  Visit  to  the  Cave  of  San  Matteo,  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Manilla 342 

III.  Testimony  of  M.  Dnmont  d'Urville 356 

IV.  Testimony  of  Admiral  Laplace 362 

V.  Testimony  of  M.  Mallat 872 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTBATIONS. 


FRONTISPIECE,  A  NATIVE  WOMAN  CARRIED  OFF  BY  A  CAYMAN. 
TITLE  PAGE,  PORTRAIT  OF  THE  AUTHOR. 

NANTES 17 

SAYING  THE  LIFE  OF  CAPTAIN  DKOUANT      ....  22 

MOUTH  OF  THE  BAY  OF  MANILLA 32 

SPANISH  METIS,  OR  HALF-BREEDS 36 

CHINESE  METIS,  OR  HALF-BREEDS 37 

SPANISH  METIS  OF  THE  SUPERIOR  CLASS     ....  47 

BRIDGE  OF  MANILLA ,  50 

STAG  HUNTING  IN  THE  MARIGONDON  MOUNTAINS        .       .  62 

PASSAGE-BOAT  ON  THE  RIVER  PASIG 70 

TAGAL  INDIANS  POUNDING  RICE 82 

FATHER  MIGUEL 86 

SHOOTING  A  BUFFALO 93 

HORNS  OF  THE  BUFFALO 93 

THE  HOUSE  AT  JALA-JALA 95 

HERD  OF  WILD  BUFFALOES «  98 

TAGAL  COCK-FIGHTING 10i 

TAGAL  INDIANS 103 

ILOCOS  INDIANS 106 

THE  BRAIN  FEAST  ...,..,..  112 

GUINAN  INDIANS     ....  117 


Ml  LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Pxge 

WEAPONS  OF  THE  TINGUIAN  INDIANS 12-3 

BIRANGAS  INDIANS — INHABITANTS  OF  BOULACAN         .       .  138 

FISHING  RAFT 139 

THE  HOUSE  OF  LA  PLANCHE         ...  162 

CHURCH  OF  PANDACAN,  IN  THE  ENVIRONS  OF  MANILLA      .  178 

HUNTING  PARTY  AT  JALA- JALA 181 

CASCADE  NEAR  JALA- JALA 185 

VIEW  AT  SAN-MATEO 195 

PORTRAIT  OF  DUMONT  D'URVILLE 204 

A  TAGAL  INDIAN  DWELLING 20S 

YOUNG  TAGAL  INDIAN  AND  HIS  BETROTHED        .       .       .  209 

ATTACKING  A  CAYMAN 219 

BOA-CONSTRICTOR  AND  WlLD  BOAR 222 

ATTACKING  A  BOA-CONSTRICTOR 221 

RICE,  STACKING  IN  THE  PHILIPPINES     .....  228 

THE  LOCUST 230 

VIEW  ON  THE  RIVER  PASIG 239 

AJETAS  INDIANS 245 

LA  GIRONIERE  IN  HUNTING  DRESS 247 

THE  COCOA-NUT 250 

THE  BANANA 251 

TRAVERSING  AN  INDIAN  FOREST 251 

FRUIT  OF  THE  PALM  TREE 25G 

INHABITANTS  OF  BINANGONAN  DE  LAMPON  ....  265 

VIEW  OF  MANILLA  FROM  THE  ENVIRONS      ....  283 

THE  INDIAN  PLOUGH 334 

YOKE  FOR  THE  BUFFALOES 335 

LILIT,  OR  THE  INDIAN  SICKLE       ......  335 

THE  COMB  HARROW 335 

A  GUILIGEN,  OR  HAND-MILL  .......  336 

THE  MORTAR  .                                               r               >  386 


PREFACE. 


ON  hearing  a  recital  of  some  adventures  which  had 
occurred  to  me  during  my  long  voyages,  many  of  my 
friends  have  frequently  begged  of  me  to  publish  a  narra 
tive  of  them,  which  might  perhaps  be  interesting. 

"  Nothing  can  be  more  easy  for  you,"  they  said,  "  as 
you  have  always  kept  a  journal  since  your  departure  from 
France. 

I  hesitated,  however,  to  follow  their  advice,  or  to  yield 
to  their  wishes,  when  I  was  one  day  surprised  to  see  my 
name  in  one  of  \\\G  feuilletons  of  the  "  Comtitutionnel? 

M.  Alexandra  Dumas  was  publishing,  under  the  title 
of  "  The  Thousand- and- One  Phantoms ,"  a  romance,  one 
of  the  principal  personages  of  which,  in  a  voyage  to  the 
Philippine  Islands,  must  have  known  me  when  I  was 
residing  at  Jala-Jala,  in  the  colony  that  I  founded  there. 


XIV  PREFACE. 

It  must  be  evident  that  the  lively  romancist  has  ranken 
ine  in  the  category  of  his  Thousand-and-One  Phantoms; 
but,  to  prove  to  the  public  that  I  am  really  in  existence, 
I  have  resolved  to  take  up  the  pen,  under  an  impression 
that  facts  of  the  most  scrupulous  veracity,  arid  which  can 
be  attested  by  some  hundreds  of  persons,  might  possess 
some  interest,  and  be  read  without  ennui,  by  those 
especially  who  are  desirous  of  learning  the  customs  of 
the  savage  tribes  amongst  whom  I  have  resided. 


TWENTY  YEARS 


IN 


THE   PHILIPPINES. 


CHAPTER    I. 

A  Family  Sketch — My  Youthful  Days — I  Study  for  the  Medical  Profession — 
Obtain  a  Naval  Surgeon's  Diploma — Early  Voyages — Sail  for  Manilla  in 
the  Cultivateur — Adventurous  Habits — Cholera  and  Massacre  at  Manilla 
and  Cavite — Captain  Drouant's  Rescue — Personal  Dangers  and  Timely 
Escapes — How  Business  may  make  Friends  of  one's  Enemies — An  Un 
principled  Captain — Tranquillity  restored  at  Manilla — Pleasures  of  the 
Chase — The  Cultivateur  sails  without  me — First  Embarrassments. 

~[\/TY  father  was  born  at  Nantes,  and  held  the  rank  of  captain 

in  the  regiment  of  Auvergne.      The  Revolution  caused 

him  the  loss  of  his  commission  and  his  fortune,  and  left  him,  as 

sole  remaining  resource,  a  little  property  called  La  PlancJic, 

B 


18  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

belonging  to  my  mother,  and  situate  about  two  leagues  from 
Nantes,  in  the  parish  of  Vertoux. 

At  the  commencement  of  the  Empire  he  wished  to  enter 
the  service  again  ;  but  at  that  period  his  name  was  an  obstacle, 
c.iul  he  failed  in  every  attempt  to  obtain  even  the  rank  of 
lieutenant.  With  scarcely  the  means  of  existence,  he  retired 
to  La  Planclie  with  his  family.  There  he  lived  for  some  years, 
suffering  the  grief  and  the  many  annoyances  caused  by  the 
sudden  change  from  opulence  to  want,  and  by  the  impossi 
bility  of  supplying  all  the  requirements  of  his  numerous  family. 
A  short  illness  terminated  his  distressed  existence,  and  his  mortal 
remains  were  deposited  in  the  cemetery  of  Vertoux.  My  mother, 
a  pattern  of  courage  and  devotedness,  remained  a  widow,  with 
six  children,  two  girls  arid  four  boys ;  she  continued  to  reside  in 
the  country,  imparting  to  us  the  first  elements  of  instruction. 

The  free  life  of  the  fields,  and  the  athletic  exercises  to 
which  my  elder  brothers  and  I  accustomed  ourselves,  tended 
to  make  mo  hardy,  and  rendered  me  capable  of  enduring  every 
kind  of  fatigue  and  privation.  This  country  life,  with  its  liberty, 
and  I  may  well  say  its  happiness,  passed  too  quickly  away ; 
and  the  period  soon  came  when  my  education  compelled  me  to 
pursue  my  daily  studies  in  a  school  at  Nantes.  I  had  four 
leagues  to  walk,  but  I  trudged  the  distance  light-heartedly,  and 
at  night,  when  I  returned  home,  I  ever  found  awaiting  me  the 
kind  solicitude  of  our  dear  mother,  and  the  attentive  cares  of 
two  sisters  whom  I  tenderly  loved. 

It  was  decided  that  I  should  enter  the  medical  profession. 
I  studied  several  years  at  the  Hotel-Dieu  of  Nantes,  and  I 
passed  my  examination  for  naval  surgeon  at  an  age  when  many 
a  young  man  is  shut  up  within  the  four  walls  of  a  college,  still 
prosecuting  his  studies. 


EARLY  VOYAGES SAIL  FOR  MANILLA.  ID 

It  would  be  difficult  to  form  any  idea  of  my  joy  when  I 
saw  myself  in  possession  of  my  surgeon's  diploma.  Thence 
forward  I  regarded  myself  as  an  important  being,  about  to  take 
my  place  among  reasonable  and  industrious  men;  and  what 
perhaps  rendered  me  still  more  joyous  was,  that  I  could  earn 
my  own  livelihood,  and  contribute  to  the  comfort  of  my  mother 
and  my  sisters. 

I  was  also  seized  with  a  strong  desire  to  travel  abroad, 
and  make  myself  acquainted  with  foreign  countries. 

Twenty-four  hours  after  my  nomination  as  surgeon  I  went 
and  offered  my  services  to  a  ship-owner  who  was  about  freighting 
a  vessel  to  the  East  Indies.  We  were  not  long  in  arranging 
terms,  and,  at  forty  francs  per  month,  I  engaged  myself  for  the 
voyage. 

Within  twelve  months  afterwards  I  returned  home.  Who 
can  depict  the  sweet  emotions  which,  as  a  young  man,  I  felt  on 
again  beholding  my  native  land  ?  I  stayed  a  month  on  shore, 
surrounded  by  the  affectionate  attentions  of  my  mother  and 
sisters.  Despite  their  assiduities  I  was  seized  with  ennui,  I 
made  a  second  and  a  third  voyage ;  then,  after  having  rounded 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  half-a-dozen  times,  I  undertook  one 
which  separated  me  from  my  country  during  twenty  years. 

On  the  9th  October,  1819,  I  embarked  on  board  the  Cul- 
tivatcur,  an  old  half-rotten  three-masted  vessel,  commanded 
by  an  equally  old  captain,  who,  long  ashore,  had  given  up  navi 
gating  for  many  years.  An  old  captain  with  an  old  ship  !  Such 
were  the  conditions  in  which  I  undertook  this  voyage.  I  ought, 
however,  to  add,  that  I  obtained  an  increase  of  pay. 

We  touched  at  Bourbon  ;  we  ran  along  the  entire  coast  of 
Sumatra,  a  part  of  Java,  the  isles  of  Sonde,  and  that  of  Banca  ; 
and  at  last,  towards  the  end  of  May,  eight  months  after  our 


20  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

departure  from  Nantes,  we  arrived  in  the  magnificent  bay  of 
Manilla. 

The  Cultivatcur  anchored  near  the  little  town  of  Cavite. 
I  obtained  leave  to  reside  on  shore,  and  took  lodgings  in  Cavite, 
which  is  situate  about  five  or  six  leagues  from  Manilla. 

To  make  up  for  my  long  inactivity  on  board  ship,  I  eagerly 
engaged  in  my  favorite  exercises,  exploring  the  country  in  all 
directions  with  my  gun  upon  my  shoulder.  Taking  for  a  guide 
the  first  Indian  whom  I  met,  I  made  long  excursions,  less 
occupied  in  shooting  than  in  admiring  the  magnificent  scenery. 
I  knew  a  little  Spanish,  and  soon  acquired  a  few  Tagaloc 
words.  Whether  it  was  for  excitement's  sake,  or  from  a  vague 
desire  of  braving  danger,  I  know  not,  but  I  was  particularly 
fond  of  wandering  in  remote  places,  said  to  be  frequented  by 
robbers.  With  these  I  occasionally  fell  in,  but  the  sight  of 
my  gun  kept  them  in  check.  I  may  say,  with  truth,  that  at 
that  period  of  my  life  I  had  so  little  sense  of  danger,  that  1 
was  always  ready  to  put  myself  forward  when  there  was  an 
enemy  to  fight  or  a  peril  to  be  encountered. 

I  had  only  resided  a  short  time  at  Cavite  when  that 
terrible  scourge,  the  cholera,  broke  out  at  Manilla,  in  Sep 
tember,  1820,  and  quickly  ravaged  the  whole  island.  Within 
a  few  days  of  its  first  appearance  the  epidemic  spread  rapidly ; 
the  Indians  succumbed  by  thousands  ;  at  all  hours  of  the  day 
and  of  the  night  the  streets  were  crowded  with  the  dead-carts. 
Next  to  the  fright  occasioned  by  the  epidemic,  quickly  suc 
ceeded  rage  and  despair.  The  Indians  said,  one  to  another, 
that  the  strangers  poisoned  the  rivers  and  the  fountains,  in 
order  to  destroy  the  native  population  and  possess  themselves 
of  the  Philippines. 

On  the  9th  October,  1820,  the  anniversary  of  my  departure 


FRIGHTFUL    MASSACRE    AT    MANILLA    AND    CAVITE.  21 

from  France,  a  dreadful  massacre  commenced  at  Manilla  and 
at  Cavitc.  Poor  Dibard,  the  captain  of  the  Cultivatcur,  was 
one  of  the  first  victims.  Almost  all  the  French  who  resided 
at  Manilla  were  slain,  and  their  houses  pillaged  and  destroyed. 
The  carnage  only  ceased  when  there  were  no  longer  any 
victims.  One  eye-witness  escaped  this  butchery,  namely,  M. 
Gautrin,  a  captain  of  the  merchant  service,  who,  at  the 
moment  I  am  writing,  happens  to  be  residing  in  Paris.  He 
saved  his  life  by  his  courage  and  his  muscular  strength.  After 
seeing  one  of  his  friends  mercilessly  cut  to  pieces,  he  precipi 
tated  himself  into  the  midst  of  the  assassins,  with  no  other 
means  of  defence  than  his  fists.  He  succeeded  in  fighting  his 
way  through  the  crowd,  but  shortly  afterwards  fell  exhausted, 
having  received  three  sabre-cuts  upon  his  head,  and  a  lance- 
thrust  in  his  body.  Fortunately,  some  soldiers  happened  to 
pass  by  at  the  time,  who  picked  him  up  and  carried  him  to  a 
guard-house,  where  his  wounds  were  quickly  attended  to. 

I  myself  was  dodged  about  Cavite,  but  I  contrived  to 
escape,  and  to  reach  a  pirogue,  into  which  I  jumped,  and  took 
refuge  on  board  the  Cultivateur.  I  had  scarcely  been  there 
ten  minutes  when  I  was  requested  to  attend  the  mate  of  an 
American  vessel,  who  had  just  been  stabbed  ori  board  his  ship 
by  some  custom-house  guards.  When  I  had  finished  dressing 
the  wound,  several  officers,  belonging  to  the  different  French 
vessels  lying  in  the  bay,  acquainted  me  that  one  of  their 
brethren,  Captain  Drouant,  of  Marseilles,  was  still  ashore,  and 
that  there  might  yet  be  time  to  save  him.  There  was  not  a 
moment  to  lose  ;  night  was  approaching,  and  it  was  necessary 
to  profit  by  the  last  half-hour  of  daylight.  I  set  off  in  a 
cutter,  and,  on  nearing  the  land,  I  directed  my  men  to  keep 
the  boat  afloat,  in  order  to  prevent  a  surprise  on  the  part  of  the 


22  TWENTY    YEARS    II,'    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

Indians,  but  yet  to  hug  the  shore  sufficiently  close  to  land 
promptly,  in  case  the  captain  or  myself  signaled  them.  I 
then  quickly  set  about  searching  for  Drouant. 

On  reaching  a  small  square,  called  Puerto,  J3aga,  I  ob 
served  a  group  of  three  or  four  hundred  Indians.  I  had  a 
presentiment  that  it  was  in  that  direction  I  ought  to  prosecute 
my  search.  I  approached,  and  beheld  the  unfortunate  Drouant, 
pale  as  a  corpse.  A  furious  Indian  was  on  the  point  of  plung 
ing  his  kreese  into  his  breast.  I  threw  myself  between  the 
captain  and  the  poignard,  violently  pushing  on  either  side  the 
murderer  and  his  victim,  so  as  to  separate  them.  "Run!"  I 
cried  in  French  ;  "a  boat  awaits  you."  So  great  was  the  stupe 
faction  of  the  Indians  that  the  captain  escaped  unpursued. 

It  was  now  time  for  me  to  get  out  of  the  dangerous  situ 
ation  in  which  I  was  involved.  Four  hundred  Indians  sur 
rounded  me  ;  ihe  only  way  of  dealing  with  them  was  by  audacity. 
I  said  in  Tagaloc  to  the  Indian  who  had  attempted  to  stab  the 
captain:  "You  are  a  scoundrel."  The  Indian  sprang  toward 
me  ;  he  raised  his  arm  :  I  struck  him  on  the  head  with  a  cane 
which  I  held  in  my  hand  ;  he  waited  in  astonishment  for  a 
moment,  and  then  returned  towards  his  companions  to  excite 
them.  Daggers  were  drawrn  on  every  side ;  the  crowd  formed 
a  circle  around  me,  which  gradually  concentrated.  Mysterious 
influence  of  the  white  man  over  his  coloured  brother  !  Of  all 
these  four  hundred  Indians,  not  one  dared  attack  me  the  first ; 
they  all  wished  to  strike  together.  Suddenly  a  native  soldier, 
armed  with  a  musket,  broke  through  the  crowd ;  he  struck 
down  my  adversary,  took  away  his  dagger,  and  holding  his 
musket  by  the^  bayonet  end,  he  swung  it  round  and  round  his 
head,  thus  enlarging  the  circle  at  first,  and  then  dispersing  a 
portion  of  my  enemies.  "  Fly,  sir  !"  said  my  liberator  ;  "  now 


A    FRIEND    IN    NEED A    TIMELY    WARNING.  23 

that  I  am  here,  no  one  will  touch  a  hair  cf  your  head."  In 
fact  the  crowd  divided,  and  left  me  a  free  passage.  I  was  saved, 
without  knowing  by  whom,  or  for  what  reason,  until  the  native 
soldier  called  after  me  :  "You  attended  my  wife  who  was  sick, 
and  you  never  asked  payment  of  me.  I  now  settle  my  debt." 

As  Captain  Drouant  had  doubtless  gone  off  in  the  cutter, 
it.  was  impossible  for  me  to  return  on  board  the  Cultivate? tr. 
I  directed  my  steps  towards  my  lodgings,  creeping  along  the 
walls,  and  taking  advantage  of  the  obscurity,  when,  on  turning 
the  corner  of  a  street,  I  fell  into  the  midst  of  a  band  of  dock 
yard  workmen,  armed  with  axes,  and  about  to  proceed  to  the  at 
tack  of  the  French  vessels  then  in  harbor.  Here  again  I  owed 
my  preservation  to  an  acquaintance,  to  whom  I  had  rendered 
some  service  in  the  practice  of  my  profession.  A  Metis,  or 
half-breed,  who  had  quickly  pushed  me  into  the  entry  of  a  house, 
and  covered  me  with  his  body,  said:  "Stir  not,  Doctor  Pablo !"* 
"When  the  crowd  had  dispersed,  my  protector  advised  mo 
to  conceal  myself,  and  above  all,  not  to  go  on  board ;  he  then 
started  off  to  rejoin  his  comrades.  But  all  was  not  yet  over.  I 
had  scarcely  entered  my  lodgings  when  I  heard  a  knocking  at 
the  door. 

"  Doctor  Pablo,"  said  a  voice,  which  was  not  unknown  to  me. 

I  opened,  and  I  saw,  as  pale  as  death,  a  Chinese,  who  kept 
a  tea-store  on  the  ground-floor  of  the  same  house. 

"  What's  the  matter,  Yang-Po  ?" 

"  Save  yourself,  Doctor  !" 

"  And  wherefore  ?" 

"  Because  the  Indians  will  attack  you  this  very  night ;  they 
have  decided  upon  it !" 

*  Pablo  signifies  Paul,  my  Christian  namo.  [  was  always  called  thus 
at  Manilla  and  at  Cuvite. 


24  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    I'lIlLirriNES. 

"Is  it  not  your  apprehension  on.  account  of  your  shop, 
Yang-Po  ?" 

"Oh,  no  !  do  not  treat  this  matter  lightly.  If  you  remain 
here  you  are  doomed ;  you  have  struck  an  Indian,  and  his 
friends  cry  aloud  for  vengeance." 

The  fears  of  Yang-Po  were,  I  saw,  too  well-founded  ;  but 
what  could  I  do  ?  To  shut  my  door  and  await  was  the  safest 
plan. 

"  Thank  you,"  said  I  to  the  Chinese ;  "  thank  you  for  your 
kind  advice,  but  I  shall  remain  here." 

"  Remain  here,  Signor  Doctor  !     Can  you  think  of  so  doing  ?" 

"  Now,  Yang-Po,  a  service :  go  and  say  to  these  Indians 
that  I  have,  at  their  service,  a  brace  of  pistols  and  a  double- 
barreled  gun,  which  I  know  how  to  use." 

The  Chinese  departed  sighing  deeply,  from  a  notion  that 
the  attack  upon  the  Doctor  might  end  in  the  pillage  of  his 
wares.  I  barricaded  my  door  with  the  furniture  of  the  room  ; 
I  then  loaded  my  weapons,  and  put  out  the  lights. 

It  was  now  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening.  The  least  noise 
made  me  think  that  the  moment  had  arrived  when  Providence 
alone  could  save  me.  I  was  so  fatigued  that,  despite  the 
anxiety  natural  to  my  position,  I  had  frequently  to  struggle 
against  an  inclination  to  sleep.  Toward  eleven  o'clock  some 
one  knocked  at  my  door.  I  seized  my  pistols,  and  listened 
attentively.  At  a  second  summons,  I  approached  the  door  on 
tip-toe. 

"  Who's  there  ?"  I  demanded. 

A  voice  replied  to  me;  "We  come  to  save  you.  Lose  not 
an  instant.  Get  out  on  the  roof,  and  climb  over  to  the  other 
side,  wrhere  we  will  await  you,  in  the  street  of  the  Campanario" 
Then  two  or  three  persons  descended  the  stairs  rapidly.  I  had 


ESCAPE  FROM  THE  INDIANS.  25 

recognised  the  voice  of  a  Metis,  whose  good  feelings  on  my 
behalf  were  beyond  doubt.  There  was  now  no  time  to  be  lost, 
for  at  the  moment  I  got  out  of  a  window  which  served  to 
light  the  staircase,  and  led  on  to  the  roof,  the  Indians  had 
arrived  in  front  of  the  house,  and  in  a  few  minutes  were 
breaking  and  plundering  the  little  I  possessed.  I  quickly 
traversed  the  roof,  and  descended  into  the  street  of  the  Cam 
panario,  where  my  new  preservers  awaited  me.  They  conducted 
me  to  their  dwelling :  there,  a  profound  sleep  caused  me 
quickly  to  forget  the  dangers  I  had  passed  through. 

The  following  day  my  friends  prepared  a  small  pirogue  to 
convey  me  on  board  the  Cultivatcur,  where,  apparently,  I 
should  be  in  greater  security  than  on  shore.  I  was  about  to 
embark  when  one  of  my  preservers  handed  me  a  letter  which 
he  had  just  received.  It  was  addressed  to  me,  and  bore  the 
signatures  of  all  the  captains  whose  vessels  were  lying  in  the 
harbour,  and  it  informed  me  that,  seeing  themselves  exposed 
every  moment  to  an  attack  by  the  Indians,  they  were  decided 
to  raise  anchor  and  seek  a  wider  offing ;  but  that  two  among 
them,  Drouant  and  Perroux,  had  been  compelled  to  leave  on 
shore  a  portion  of  their  possessions,  and  all  their  sails  and 
fresh  water.  They  entreated  me  to  lend  them  my  assistance, 
and  had  arranged  that  a  skiff  should  be  placed  at  my  command. 
I  communicated  this  letter  to  my  friends,  and  declared  that  I 
would  not  return  on  board  without  endeavouring  to  satisfy  the 
wishes  of  my  countrymen  ;  it  was  a  question  of  saving  the  lives 
of  the  crews  of  two  vessels,  and  hesitation  was  impossible. 
They  used  every  effort  to  shake  my  resolution.  "  If  you  show 
yourself  in  any  part  of  the  town,"  said  they,  "  you  are  lost ; 
even  supposing  the  Indians  were  not  to  kill  you,  they  would 
not  fail  to  steal  every  object  intrusted  to  them."  I  remained 

B 


26  TWENTY   YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

immovable,  and  pointed  out  to  them  that  it  was  a  question  of 
honour  and  humanity.  "Go  alone,  then!"  exclaimed  that 
Metis  who  had  contributed  the  most  to  my  escape ;  "  not 
one  of  us  will  follow  you ;  we  would  not  have  it  said  that  we 
assisted  in  your  destruction." 

I  thanked  my  friends,  and,  after  shaking  hands  with  them, 
passed  on  through  the  streets  of  Cavite,  my  pistols  in  my  belt, 
and  my  thoughts  occupied  as  to  the  best  means  of  extricating 
myself  from  my  perilous  position.  However,  I  already  knew 
sufficient  of  the  Indian  character  to  be  aware  that  boldness 
would  conciliate,  rather  than  enrage  them.  I  went  towards 
the  same  landing-pace  where  once  before  I  had  escaped  a 
great  danger.  The  shore  was  covered  with  Indians,  watching 
the  ships  at  anchor.  As  I  advanced,  all  turned  their  looks 
upon  me ;  but,  as  I  had  foreseen,  the  countenances  of  these 
men,  whose  feelings  had  become  calmed  during  the  night  that 
had  intervened,  expressed  more  astonishment  than  anger. 

"  Will  you  earn  money  ?"  I  cried.  "  To  those  who  work 
with  me  I  will  give  a  dollar  at  the  end  of  the  day." 

A  moment's  silence  followed  this  proposition  ;  then  one 
of  them  said  :  "  You  do  not  fear  us  !" 

"Judge  if  I  am  alarmed,"  I  replied,  showing  him  my 
pistols ;  "  with  these  I  could  take  two  lives  for  one — the 
advantage  is  on  my  side." 

My  words  had  a  magical  effect,  and  my  questioner  replied : 

"  Put  up  your  weapons ;  you  have  a  brave  heart,  and 
deserve  to  be  safe  amongst  us.  Speak  !  what  do  you  require  ? 
We  will  follow  you."  I  saw  these  men,  who  but  yesterday 
would  have  killed  me,  now  willing  to  bear  me  in  triumph.  I 
then  explained  to  them  that  I  wished  to  take  some  articles 
which  had  been  left  on  shore  to  my  comrades,  and  to  those 


A    BAKGAIN    WITH    THE    ENEMY.  M 

who  assisted  me  in  this  object  I  would  give  the  promised  re 
compense.  I  told  the  one  who  had  addressed  me  to  select 
two  hundred  men,  nearly  double  the  number  necessary  ;  during 
the  time  he  made  up  his  party  I  signaled  a  skiff  to  approach 
the  shore,  and  wrote  a  few  words  in  pencil,  in  order  that  the 
boats  from  the  French  vessels  might  be  in  readiness  to  receive 
the  stores  as  soon  as  they  were  brought  to  the  water's  edge. 
I  then  marched  at  the  head  of  my  Indian  troop  of  two 
hundred  men,  and  by  their  aid  the  sails,  provisions,  biscuits, 
and  wines,  were  soon  on  board  the  boats.  That  which  most 
embarrassed  me  was  the  transport  of  a  large  sum  ]of  money 
belonging  to  Captain  Drouant.  If  the  Indians  had  conceived 
the  least  suspicion  of  this  wealth,  they  would  no  longer  have 
kept  faith  with  me.  I  therefore  determined  to  fill  my  own 
pockets  with  the  gold,  and  to  traverse  the  distance  between 
the  house  and  the  boats  as  many  times  as  was  necessary  to 
embark  it.  There,  concealed  by  the  sailors,  I  deposited  piece 
after  piece  as  quietly  as  possible.  In  carrying  the  sails 
belonging  to  Captain  Perroux,  a  circumstance  occurred  which 
might  have  been  fatal  to  me.  A  few  days  before  the  massacre, 
a  French  sailor,  who  was  working  as  sail  maker,  had  died  of 
the  cholera.  His  alarmed  companions  wrapped  the  body  in 
a  sail,  and  then  hurried  on  board  their  ships.  My  Indians  now 
discovered  the  corpse,  which  was  already  in  a  state  of  putre 
faction.  Terrified  at  first,  their  terror  soon  changed  to  fury  ; 
for  an  instant  I  feared  they  would  fall  upon  me. 

"Your  friends,"  they  cried,  "have  left  this  body  here 
purposely,  that  it  might  poison  the  air  and  increase  the  vio 
lence  of  the  epidemic." 

"  What !  you  are  afraid  of  a  poor  devil  dead  of  the  cholera !" 
I  said  to  them,  affecting  to  be  as  tranquil  as  possible  ;  "  never 


28  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

fear,  1  will  soon  rid  you  of  him ;"  and,  despite  the  aversion  I 
felt,  I  covered  the  body  with  a  small  sail,  and  carried  it  down 
to  the  beach.  There  I  made  a  rude  grave,  in  which  I  placed 
it ;  and  two  pieces  of  wood,  in  the  shape  of  a  cross,  for  some 
days  indicated  the  spot  where  lay  the  unhappy  one,  who  pro 
bably  had  no  prayers  save  mine. 

It  had  been  a  busy  and  agitating  day,  but  towards  the  even 
ing  I  finished  my  task,  and  everything  was  embarked.  I  paid 
the  Indians,  and  in  addition  gave  them  a  barrel  of  spirits. 

I  did  not  fear  their  intoxication,  being  the  only  Frenchman 
there,  and  when  it  was  dark  I  got  into  a  boat,  and  towed  a  dozen 
casks  of  fresh  water  at  her  stern.  Since  the  previous  day  I 
had  not  eaten ;  I  felt  worn  out  by  fatigue  and  want  of  food, 
and  threw  myself  down  to  rest  upon  the  seats  of  the  boat. 
Ere  long  a  mortal  chilliness  passed  through  my  veins,  and  I 
became  insensible.  In  this  state  I  remained  more  than  an 
hour.  At  last  I  reached  the  Cultivateur,  and  was  taken  on 
board,  and,  by  the  aid  of  friction,  brandy,  and  other  remedies, 
was  restored  to  consciousness.  Food  and  rest  quickly  renovated 
my  powers  of  mind  and  body,  and  the  next  day  I  was  calm  as 
usual  among  my  comrades.  I  thought  of  my  personal  posi 
tion  ;  the  events  of  the  two  last  days  made  the  review  ex 
tremely  simple.  I  had  lost  everything.  A  small  venture  of 
merchandise,  in  which  I  invested  the  savings  of  my  previous 
voyages,  had  been  intrusted  to  the  captain  for  sale  at  Manilla. 
These  goods  were  destroyed,  together  with  all  I  possessed,  at 
Cavite.  There  remained  to  me  but  the  clothes  I  had  on — a 
few  old  things  I  could  wear  only  on  board  ship — and  thirty-two 
dollars.  I  was  but  a  littleric  her  than  Bias.  Unfortunate^ 
I  recollected  that  an  English  captain — whose  ship  I  had  seen 
in  the  roads—owed  me  something  like  a  hundred  dollars.  In 


A    DISHONEST   TAR— TRANQUILLITY    RESTORED.  29 

my  present  circumstances  this  sum  appeared  a  fortune.  The 
captain  in  question,  from  fear  of  the  Indians,  had  dropped 
lown  as  far  as  Maribele,  at  the  entrance  of  the  bay,  ten 
leagues  from  Cavite.  To  obtain  payment  it  was  necessary  I 
should  go  on  board  his  vessel.  I  borrowed  a  boat,  and  the 
services  of  four  sailors,  from  Captain  Perroux,  and  departed. 
I  reached  the  ship  at  dusk.  The  unprincipled  captain,  who 
knew  himself  to  be  in  deep  water  and  safe  from  pursuit,  re 
plied  that  he  did  not  understand  what  I  was  saying  to  him. 
I  insisted  upon  being  paid,  and  he  laughed  in  my  face.  I 
was  treated  as  a  cheat.  He  threatened  to  have  me  thrown 
into  the  sea ;  in  short,  after  a  useless  discussion,  and  at  the 
moment  when  the  captain  called  five  or  six  of  his  sailors  to  execute 
his  threat,  I  retreated  to  my  boat.  The  night  was  dark,  and 
as  a  violent  and  contrary  wind  had  sprung  up,  it  was  impossible 
to  regain  the  ship,  so  we  passed  the  night  floating  upon  the 
waves,  ignorant  as  to  the  direction  we  were  going.  In  the 
morning  I  discovered  our  efforts  had  been  thrown  away ; 
Cavite  was  far  behind  us.  The  wind  becoming  calmer,  we 
again  commenced  rowing,  and  two  hours  after  noon  reached 
the  ship. 

Meanwhile  tranquillity  was  restored  at  Cavite  and  Manilla. 
The  Spanish  authorities  took  measures  to  prevent  a  recurrence 
of  the  frightful  scenes  I  have  detailed,  and  the  priests 
of  Cavite  launched  a  public  excommunication  against  all  those 
who  had  attempted  my  life.  I  attributed  this  solicitude  to  the 
character  of  my  profession,  being  in  fact  the  only  ^Esculapius  in 
the  place.  When  I  left  the  town  the  sick  were  obliged  to 
content  themselves  with  the  hazardous  presumptions  of  Indian 
sorcerers.  One  morning,  I  had  almost  decided  upon  return 
ing  to  land,  when  an  Indian,  in  a  smartly  decorated  pirogue 


80  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

came  alongside  the  Cultivateur.  I  had  met  this  man  in  som<? 
of  my  shooting  excursions,  and  he  now  proposed  that  I  should 
go  with  him  to  his  house,  situated  ten  leagues  from  Cavite, 
near  the  mountains  of  Marigondon.  The  prospect  of  some 
good  sport  soon  decided  me  to  accept  this  offer.  Taking  with 
me  my  thirty-two  dollars  and  double-barreled  gun — in  fact,  my 
whole  fortune — I  intrusted  myself  to  this  friend,  whose  ac 
quaintance  I  had  just  made.  His  little  habitation  was  de 
lightfully  situated,  in  the  cool  shadow  of  the  palm  and  yang- 
yang — immense  trees,  whose  flowers  spread  around  a  delicious 
perfume.  Two  charming  Indian  girls  were  the  Eves  of  this 
paradise.  My  good  friend  kept  the  promises  he  had  made  me 
on  leaving  the  vessel ;  I  was  treated  both  by  himself  and  family 
with  every  attention  and  kindness. 

Hunting  was  my  principal  amusement,  and,  above  all,  the 
chase  of  the  stag,  which  involves  violent  exercise.  I  was  still 
ignorant  of  wild-buffalo  hunting,  of  which,  however,  I  shall 
have  to  speak  later  in  my  narrative ;  and  I  often  requested  my 
host  to  give  me  a  taste  of  this  sport,  but  he  always  refused, 
saying  it  was  too  dangerous.  For  three  weeks  I  lived  with  the 
Indian  family  without  receiving  any  news  from  Manilla,  when 
one  morning,  a  letter  came  from  the  first  mate — who,  on  the 
death  of  the  unfortunate  Dibard,  had  taken  the  command  of  the 
Cultivateur — telling  me  he  was  about  to  sail,  and  that  I  must 
go  on  board  at  once  if  I  wished  to  leave  a  country  which  had 
been  so  fatal  to  all  of  us.  This  summous  was  already  several 
days  old,  and  despite  the  reluctance  I;  felt  to  quit  the  Indian's 
pleasant  retreat,  it  was  necessary  that  I  should  prepare  to 
start.  I  presented  my  gun  to  my  kind  host,  but  had  nothing 
to  give  his  daughters,  for  to  have  offered  them  money  would 
have  been  an  insult.  The  next  day  I  arrived  at  Manilla,  still 


LEFT   IN    THE    LURCH — FIRST    EMBARRASSMENTS.  31 

thinking  of  the  cool  shade  of  the  palm  and  the  perfumed 
flowers  of  the  yang-yang.  My  first  impulse  was  to  go  to  the 
quay  ;  but,  alas  !  the  Cultivateur  had  sailed,  and  I  had  the 
misery  of  beholding  her  already  faraway  in  the  horizon,  moving 
sluggishly  before  a  gentle  breeze  towards  the  mouth  of  the  bay. 
I  asked  some  Indian  boatmen  to  take  me  to  the  ship ;  they 
replied  that  it  might  be  practicable  if  the  wind  did  not  freshen, 
but  demanded  twelve  dollars  to  make  the  attempt.  I  had  but 
twenty-five  remaining.  I  considered  for  a  few  moments,  should 
I  not  reach  the  vessel,  what  would  become  of  me  in  a  remote 
colony,  where  I  knew  no  one,  and  my  stock  of  money  reduced 
to  thirteen  dollars,  and  with  no  articles  of  dress  than  those  I 
had  on — a  white  jacket,  trousers,  and  striped  shirt.  A  sud 
den  thought  crossed  my  mind :  what  if  I  were  to  remain  at 
Manilla,  and  practise  my  profession?  Young  and  inexpe- 
lienced,  I  ventured  to  think  myself  the  clever -st  physician 
in  the  Philippine  Islands.  Who  has  not  felt  this  self-confi 
dence  so  natural  to  youth  ?  I  turned  my  back  upon  the  ship, 
and  walked  briskly  into  Manilla. 

Before  continuing  this  recital,  let  me  describe  the  capital 
of  the  Philippines. 


Mouth  of  the  Bsj  of  Manilla. 


CHAPTEK    IT. 

Description  of  Manilla — The  two  Towns — Gaiety  of  Binondoc — Dances — Gaming 
— Beauty  of  the  Women — Their  Fascinating  Costume — Male  Costume — The 
Military  Town — Personal  Adventures — My  First  Patient — His  Generous  Con 
fidence — Commencement  of  my  Practice — The  Artificial  Eye — Brilliant  Suc 
cess — The  Charming  Widow — Auspicious  Introduction  —  My  Marriage — 
Treachery  and  Fate  of  Iturbide-  -Our  Loss  of  Fortune — Return  to  France 
postponed. 

1\/TANILLA  and  its  suburbs  contain  a  population  of  about 
^'•*-  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  souls,  of  which  Spaniards 
and  Creoles  hardly  constitute  the  tenth  part ;  the  remainder 
is  composed  of  Tagalocs,  or  Indians,  Metis,  and  Chinese, 


DESCRIPTION    OF    MANILLA — THE    TWO    TOWNS.  33 

The  city  is  divided  iiito  two  sections — the  military  and  the 
mercantile— the  latter  of  which  is  the  suburb.  The  former, 
surrounded  by  lofty  walls,  is  bounded  by  the  sea  on  one  side, 
and  upon  another  by  an  extensive  plain,  where  the  troops  are 
exercised,  and  where  of  an  evening  the  indolent  Creoles,  lazily  ex 
tended  in  their  carriages,  repair  to  exhibit  their  elegant  dresses 
and  to  inhale  the  sea-breezes.  This  public  promenade — where 
intrepid  horsemen  and  horsewomen,  and  European  vehicles, 
cross  each  other  in  every  direction — may  be  styled  the  Champs- 
Elysees,  or  the  Hyde  Park,  of  the  Indian  Archipelago.  On  a 
third  side,  the  military  town  is  separated  from  the  trading  town 
by  the  river  Pasig,  upon  which  are  seen  all  the  day  boats  laden 
with  merchandize,  and  charming  gondolas  conveying  idlers  to 
different  parts  of  the  suburbs,  or  to  visit  the  ships  in  the  bay. 

The  military  town  communicates  by  the  bridge  of  Binon- 
doc  with  the  mercantile  town,  inhabited  principally  by  the 
Spaniards  engaged  in  public  affairs;  its  aspect  is  dull  and 
monotonous ;  all  the  streets,  perfectly  straight,  are  bordered 
by  wide  granite  footpaths.  In  general,  the  highways  are 
macadamised,  and  kept  in  good  condition.  Such  is  the  effemi 
nacy  of  the  people,  they  could  not  endure  the  noise  of  carriages 
upon  pavement.  The  houses— large  and  spacious,  palaces 
in  appearance — are  built  in  a  particular  manner,  calculated  to 
withstand  the  earthquakes  and  hurricanes  so  frequent  in  this 
part  of  the  world.  They  have  all  one  story,  with  a  ground- 
floor  ;  the  upper  part,  generally  occupied  by  the  family,  is  sur 
rounded  by  a  wide  gallery,  opened  or  shut  by  means  of  large 
sliding  panels,  the  panes  of  which  are  thin  mother-of-pearl. 
The  mother-of  pearl  permits  the  passage  of  light  to  the  apart 
ments,  and  excludes  the  heat  of  the  sun.  In  the  military 
town  are  all  the  monasteries  and  convents,  the  archbishopric. 

c 


34  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

the  courts  of  justice,  the  custom-house,  the  hospital,  the 
governor's  palace,  and  the  citadel,  which  overlooks  both  towns. 
There  are  three  principal  entrances  to  Manilla — Piwrta  Santa 
Lucia,  Puerta  Real,  and  Puerto,  Parian. 

At  one  o'clock  the  drawbridges  are  raised,  and  the  gates 
pitilessly  closed,  when  the  tardy  resident  must  seek  his  night's 
lodging  in  the  suburb,  or  mercantile  town,  called  Binondoc. 
This  portion  of  Manilla  wears  a  much  gayer  and  more  lively 
aspect  than  the  military  section.  There  is  less  regularity 
in  the  streets,  and  the  buildings  are  not  so  fine  as  those  in  what 
may  be  called  Manilla  proper ;  but  in  Binondoc  all  is  move 
ment,  all  is  life.  Numerous  canals,  crowded  with  pirogues,  gon 
dolas,  and  boats  of  various  kinds,  intersect  the  suburb,  where 
reside  the  rich  merchants — Spanish,  English,  Indian,  Chinese, 
and  Metis.  The  newest  and  most  elegant  houses  are  built 
upon  the  banks  6f  the  river  Pasig.  Simple  in  exterior,  they 
contain  the  most  costly  inventions  of  English  and  Indian 
luxury.-  Precious  vases  from  China,  Japan  ware,  gold,  silver, 
and  rich  silks,  dazzle  the  eyes  on  entering  these  unpretending 
habitations.  Each  house  has  a  landing-place  from  the  river, 
and  little  bamboo  palaces,  serving  as  bathing-houses,  to  which 
the  residents  resort  several  times  daily,  to  relieve  the  fatigue 
caused  by  the  intense  heat  of  the  climate.  The  cigar  manufactory, 
which  affords  employment  continually  to  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
thousand  workmen  and  other  assistants,  is  situated  in  Binondoc  ; 
also  the  Chinese  custom-house,  and  all  the  large  working 
establishments  of  Manilla.  During  the  day,  the  Spanish 
ladies,  richly  dressed  in  the  transparent  muslins  of  India  and 
China,  lounge  about  from  store  to  store,  and  sorely  test  the 
patience  of  the  Chinese  salesman,  who  unfolds  uncomplainingly, 
and  without  showing  the  least  ill-humour,  thousands  of  pieces 


DANCES — GAMING — BEAUTY    OF   THE    WOMEN.  35 

of  goods  before  his  customers,  which  are  frequently  examined 
simply  for  amusement,  and  not  half  a  yard  purchased.  The 
balls  and  entertainments,  given  hy  the  half-breeds  of  Biuondoc 
to  their  friends,  are  celebrated  throughout  the  Philippines. 
The  quadrilles  of  Europe  are  succeeded  by  the  dances  of 
India,  and  while  the  young  people  execute  the  fandango,  the 
bolero,  the  cachucha,  or  the  lascivious  movements  of  the 
bayaderes,  the  enterprising  half-breed,  the  indolent  Spaniard, 
and  the  sedate  Chinese,  retire  to  the  gaming  saloons,  to  try 
their  fortune  at  cards  and  dice.  The  passion  for  play  is 
carried  to  such  an  extent,  that  the  traders  lose  or  gain  in 
one  night  sums  of  50,000  piasters  (£10,000  sterling).  The 
half-breeds,  Indians,  and  Chinese,  have  also  a  great  passion 
for  cock-fighting ;  these  combats  take  place  in  a  large  arena. 
I  have  seen  £1,500  betted  upon  a  cock  which  had  cost  £150  ; 
in  a  few  minutes  this  costly  champion  fell,  struck  dead  by  his 
antagonist.  In  fine,  if  Binondoc  be  exclusively  the  city  of 
pleasure,  luxury,  and  activity,  it  is  also  that  of  amorous 
intrigues  and  gallant  adventures.  In  the  evening,  Spaniards, 
English,  and  French,  go  to  the  promenades  to  ogle  the 
beautiful  and  facile  half-breed  women,  whose  transparent  robes 
reveal  their  splendid  figures.  That  which  distinguishes  the 
female  half-breeds  (Spanish-Tagals,  or  Chinese-Tagals)  is  a 
singularly  intelligent  and  expressive 'physiognomy.  Their  hair, 
drawn  back  from  the  face,  and  sustained  by  long  golden  pins, 
is  of  marvellous  luxuriance.  They  wear  upon  the  head  a 
kerchief,  transparent  like  a  veil,  made  of  the  pine  fibre,  finer 
than  our  finest  cambric ;  the  neck  is  ornamented  by  a  string 
of  large  coral  beads,  fastened  by  a  gold  medallion.  A 
transparent  chemisette,  of  the  same  stuff  as  the  head-dress, 
descends  as  far  as  the  waist,  covering,  but  not  concealing,  a 


36 


TWENTY    YEARS    IN    TIIK    PIM  LIl'Pl  N  KS. 


sfe 

iil': 


Spanish  Metis,  or  Half-Biecils. 

bosom  that  has  never  been  imprisoned  in  stays.  Below,  and 
two  or  three  inches  from  the  edge  of  the  chemisette,  is 
attached  a  variously  coloured  petticoat  of  very  bright  hues. 
Over  this  garment,  a  large  and  costly  silk  sash  closely  encircles 
the  figure,  and  shows  its  outline  from  the  waist  to  the  knee. 
The  small  and  white  feet,  always  naked,  are  thrust  into  em 
broidered  slippers,  which  cover  but  the  extremities.  Nothing 
can  be  more  charming,  coquettish,  and  fascinating,  than  this 
costume,  which  excites  in  the  highest  degree  the  admiration 
of  strangers.  The  half-breed  and  Chinese  Tagals  know  so 
well  the  effect  it  produces  on  the  Europeans,  that  nothing 
would  induce  them  to  alter  it. 

While  on  the  subject  of  dress,  that  of  the  men  is  also 


tfOSTUME — THE    MILITARY    Tow.v 


worthy  of  remark.  The  Indian  and  the  half-breed  wear  upon 
the  head  a  large  straw  hat,  black  or  white,  or  a  sort  of  Chinese 
covering,  called  a  salacote ;  upon  the  shoulders,  the  pine  fibre 
kerchief  embroidered ;  and  round  the  neck,  a  rosary  of  coral 
beads ;  their  shirts  are  also  made  from  the  fibres  of  the  pine, 
or  of  vegetable  silk ;  trousers  of  coloured  silk,  with  embroidery 
near  the  bottom,  and  a  girdle  of  red  China  crape,  complete 
their  costume.  The  feet,  without  stockings,  are  covered  with 
European  shoes. 

The  military  town,  so  quiet  during  the  day,  assumes  a 
more  lively  appearance  towards  the  evening,  when  the  inhabit 
ants  ride  out  in  their  very  magnificent  carriages,  which  are 
invariably  conducted  by  postilions  ;  they  then  mix  with  the 


38  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

walking  population  of  Binondoc.  Afterwards  visits,  balls, 
and  the  more  intimate  reunions  take  place.  At  the  latter 
they  talk,  smoke  the  cigars  of  Manilla,  and  chew  the  betel,* 
drink  glasses  of  iced  eau  sucree,  and  eat  innumerable  sweet 
meats  ;  towards  midnight  those  guests  retire  who  do  not  stay 
supper  with  the  family,  which  is  always  served  luxuriously,  and 
generally  prolonged  until  two  o'clock  in  the  morning.  Such  is 
the  life  spent  by  the  wealthy  classes  under  these  skies  so  favoured 
by  Heaven.  But  there  exists,  as  in  Europe,  and  even  to  a 
greater  extent,  the  most  abjec-t  misery,  of  which  I  shall  speak 
hereafter,  throwing  a  shade  over  this  brilliant  picture. 

I  shall  now  return  to  my  personal  adventures.  While  I 
spoke  with  the  Indians  upon  the  shore,  I  had  noticed  a  young 
European  standing  not  many  paces  from  me  ;  I  again  met  him 
on  the  road  I  took  towards  Manilla,  and  I  thought  I  would 
address  him.  This  young  man  was  a  surgeon,  about  returning 
to  Europe.  I  partly  told  him  the  plans  I  wished  to  form, 
and  asked  him  for  some  information  respecting  the  city  where 
I  pin-posed  locating  myself.  He  readily  satisfied  my  inquiries, 
and  encouraged  me  in  the  resolution  to  exercise  my  profession 
in  the  Philippine  Islands.  He  had  himself,  he  said,  con 
ceived  the  same  project,  but  family  affairs  obliged  him  to 
return  to  his  country.  I  did  not  conceal  the  misfortune  of  my 
position,  and  observed  that  it  would  be  almost  impossible  to 
pay  visits  in  the  costume,  worse  than  plain,  which  I  then  wore. 

"  That  is  of  no  consequence,"  he  replied  ;  "  I  have  all  you 
would  require :  a  coat  almost  new,  and  six  capital  lancets.  I 

*  The  betel  is  a  species  of  pepper  plant,  the  loaves  of  which  are  wrapped 
round  arcca  nuts  and  the  chunam — the  latter  is  a  kind  of  burnt-lime  made 
of  shells,  and  the  areca  nut  is  the  fruit  of  a  species  of  palm.  The  Indians, 
Chinese,  half-breeds,  and  a  great  number  of  Creoles,  continually  chew  this 
mixture,  which  is  reputed  to  sweeten  the  breath  and  assist  digestion. 


MY    FIRST    PATIENT.  39 

will  sell  you  these  things  for  their  cost  price  in  France ;  they 
will  be  a  great  bargain."  The  affair  was  soon  concluded.  He 
took  me  to  his  hotel,  and  I  shortly  left  it  encased  in  a  garment 
sufficiently  good,  but  much  too  large  and  too  long  for  me. 
Nevertheless,  it  was  some  time  since  I  had  seen  myself  so 
well  clad,  and  I  could  not  help  admiring  my  new  acquisition. 

I  had  hidden  my  poor  little  white  jacket  in  my  hat,  aiid 
I  strode  along  the  causeway  of  Manilla  more  proud  than  Arta- 
ban  himself.  I  was  the  owner  of  a  coat  and  six  lancets  ;  but 
there  remained,  for  all  my  fortune,  the  sum  of  one  dollar 
only;  this  consideration  slightly  tempered  the  joy  that  I 
felt  in  gazing  on  my  brilliant  costume.  I  thought  of  where 
I  could  pass  the  night,  and  subsist  on  the  morrow  and  the 
following  days,  if  the  sick  were  not  ready  for  me. 

Reflecting  thus  I  slowly  wandered  from  Binondoc  to  the 
military  town,  and  from  the  military  town  back  to  Binondoc, — 
when,  suddenly,  a  bright  idea  shot  across  my  brain.  At 
Cavite  I  had  heard  spoken  of  a  Spanish  captain,  by  name 
Don  Juan  Porras,  whom  an  accident  had  rendered  almost 
blind.  I  resolved  to  seek  him,  and  offer  my  services;  it 
remained  but  to  find  his  residence.  I  addressed  a  hundred 
persons,  but  each  replied  that  he  did  not  know,  and  passed 
on  his  way.  An  Indian  who  kept  a  small  shop,  and  to  whom 
I  spoke,  relieved  my  trouble  :  "If  the  senor  is  a  captain," 
he  said,  "  your  excellency  would  obtain  his  address  at  the 
first  barrack  on  your  road."  I  thanked  him,  and  eagerly 
followed  his  counsel.  At  the  infantry  barracks,  where  I  pre 
sented  myself,  the  officer  on  duty  sent  a  soldier  to  guide  me 
to  the  captain's  dwelling :  it  was  time,  the  night  had  already 
fallen.  Don  Juan  Porras  was  an  Audalusian,  a  good  man,  arid 
of  an  extremely  cheerful  disposition.  I  found  him  with  his 


40  TWENTY    TEARS    TN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

head  wrapped  in  a  Madras  handkerchief,  busied  in  completely 
covering  his  e}Tes  with  two  enormous  poultices. 

"  Senor  Captain,"  I  said,  "  I  am  a  physician,  and  a  skilful 
oculist.  I  have  come  hither  to  take  care  of  you,  and  I  am 
fulljr  convinced  that  I  shall  cure  you." 

"  Basta"  (enough  is  said),  was  his  answer ;  "  all  the  phy 
sicians  in  Manilla  are  asses." 

This  more  than  sceptical  reply  did  not  discourage  me.  I  re 
solved  to  turn  it  to  account.  "  My  opinion  is  precisely  the  same 
as  yours,"  I  promptly  answered ;  "  and  it  is  because  I  am  strongly 
convinced  of  the  ignorance  of  the  native  doctors,  that  I  have 
made  up  my  mind  to  come  and  practise  in  the  Philippines." 

"  Of  what  nation  are  you,  sir  ?  " 

"  I  am  a  Frenchman." 

"  A  French  physician  !  "  cried  Don  Juan  ;  "  Ah !  that  is 
quite  another  matter.  I  ask  your  pardon  for  having  spoken 
so  irreverently  of  men  of  your  profession.  A  French  physician ! 
I  put  myself  entirely  into  your  hands.  Take  my  eyes,  Senor 
Medico,  and  do  what  you  will  with  them  ! " 

The  conversation  was  taking  a  favourable  turn  :  I  hastened 
to  broach  the  principal  question  : 

"  Your  eyes  are  very  bad,  Senor  Captain,"  said  I ;  "  to 
accomplish  a  speedy  cure,  it  is  absolutely  necessary  that  I 
should  never  quit  you  for  a  moment." 

"Would  you  consent  to  come  and  pass  some  time  with 
me,  doctor?" 

Here  was  the  principal  consideration  settled. 

"  I  consent,"  replied  I,  "  but  on  one  condition  ;  namely, 
that  I  shall  pay  you  for  my  board  and  lodging." 

"That  shall  not  part  us — you  are  free  to  do  so,"  said  the 
worthy  man;  "  and  so  the  matter  is  settled.  I  have  a  nice  room, 


COMMENCEMENT   OF    MY    PRACTICE.  41 

and  a  good  bed,  all  ready  ;  there  is  nothing  to  do  but  to  send 
for  your  baggage.  I  will  call  my  servant." 

The  terrible  word,  "  baggage,"  sounded  in  my  ears  like 
a  knell.  I  cast  a  melancholy  look  at  the  crown  of  my  hat— 
my  only  portmanteau — within  which  were  deposited  all  my 
clothes — consisting  of  my  little  white  jacket ;  and  I  feared 
Don  Juan  would  take  me  for  some  runaway  sailor  trying  to 
dupe  him.  There  was  no  retreat ;  so  I  mustered  my  courage, 
and  briefly  related  my  sad  position,  adding  that  I  could  not 
pay  for  my  board  and  lodging  until  the  end  of  the  month — 
if  I  was  so  fortunate  as  to  find  patients.  Don  Juan  Porras 
listened  to  me  very  quietly.  When  my  tale  was  told  he  burst 
into  a  loud  laugh,  which  made  me  shiver  from  head  to  foot. 

"  Well,"  cried  he,  "  I  am  well  pleased  it  should  be  so;  you 
are  poor ;  you  will  have  more  time  to  devote  to  my  malady,  and  a 
greater  interest  in  curing  me.  What  think  you  of  the  syllogism  ?" 

"  It  is  excellent,  Senor  Captain,  and  before  long  you  will 
find,  I  hope,  that  I  am  not  the  man  to  compromise  so  dis 
tinguished  a  logician  as  yourself.  To-morrow  morning  I  will 
examine  your  eyes,  and  I  will  not  leave  you  till  I  have  radically 
cured  them." 

We  talked  for  some  time  longer  in  this  joyous  strain,  after 
which  I  retired  to  my  chamber,  where  the  most  delightful 
dreams  visited  my  pillow. 

The  next  day  I  rose  early,  put  on  my  doctoral  coat,  and 
entered  the  chamber  of  my  host.  I  examined  his  eyes ;  they 
were  in  a  dreadful  state.  The  sight  of  one  was  not  only 
destroyed,  but  threatened  the  life  of  the  sufferer.  A  cancer 
had  formed,  and  the  enormous  size  it  had  attained  rendered 
the  result  of  an  operation  doubtful.  The  left  eye  contained 
many  fibres,  but  there  was  hope  of  saving  it.  I  frankly  ac- 


43  TWENTY   YEARS    IN    THE    PllILirPINES. 

quainted  Don  Juan  with  my  fears  and  hopes,  and  insisted 
upor  the  entire  removal  of  the  right  eye.  The  Captain,  at 
first  astonished,  decided  courageously  upon  submitting  to  the 
operation,  which  I  accomplished  on  the  following  day  with 
complete  success.  Shortly  afterwards  the  inflammatory  symp 
toms  disappeared,  and  I  could  assure  my  host  of  a  safe  recovery. 
I  then  bestowed  all  my  attention  upon  the  left  eye.  I  desired 
the  more  ardently  to  restore  to  Don  Juan  his  vision,  from  the 
good  effect  I  was  convinced  his  case  would  produce  at  Manilla. 
For  me  it  would  he  fortune  and  reputation.  Besides,  I  had 
already  acquired,  in  the  few  days,  some  slight  patronage,  and 
was  in  a  position  to  pay  for  my  board  and  lodging  at  the  end 
of  the  month.  After  six  weeks'  careful  treatment  Don  Juan 
was  perfectly  cured,  and  could  use  his  eye  as  well  as  he  did 
previous  to  his  accident.  Nevertheless,  to  my  great  regret, 
the  Captain  still  continued  to  immure  himself;  his  re-ap 
pearance  in  society,  which  he  had  forsaken  for  more  than  a 
year,  would  have  produced  an  immense  sensation,  and  I 
should  have  been  considered  the  first  doctor  in  the  Philip 
pines.  One  day  I  touched  upon  this  delicate  topic. 

Senor  Captain,"  said  I,  "  what  are  you  thinking  about, 
to  remain  thus  shut  up  between  four  walls,  and  why  do  you  not 
resume  your  old  habits  ?  You  must  go  and  visit  your  friends, 
your  acquaintances." 

"  Doctor,"  interrupted  Don  Juan,  "  how  can  I  show  myself 
in  public  with  an  eye  the  less?  When  I  pass  along  the 
street  all  the  women  would  say :  *  There  goes  Don  Juan  the 
One-eyed ! '  No,  no  ;  before  I  leave  the  house  you  must  get 
me  an  artificial  eye  from  Paris." 

"  You  don't  mean  that  ?  It  would  be  eighteen  months 
before  the  eye  arrived." 


THE    ARTIFICIAL    EYE.  43 

"  Then  hero  goes  for  eighteen  months'  seclusion,"  said 
Don  Juan. 

I  persisted  for  upwards  of  an  hour,  hut  the  Captain  would 
not  listen  to  reason.  He  carried  his  coquetry  so  far  that, 
although  I  had  covered  the  empty  orbit  with  black  silk,  he 
had  his  shutters  closed  whenever  visitors  came ;  so  that,  as 
they  always  found  him  in  the  dark,  none  would  credit  his 
cure.  I  was  very  anxious  to  thwart  Don  Juan's  obstinacy, 
as  may  well  be  imagined ;  I  had  not  the  time  to  waste,  during 
eighteen  months,  in  dancing  attendance  at  fortune's  door ; 
therefore  I  determined  to  make  this  eye  myself,  without 
which  the  coquetish  captain  would  not  be  seen.  I  took  some 
pieces  of  glass,  a  tube,  and  set  to  work.  After  many  fruitless 
attempts,  I  at  last  succeeded  in  obtaining  the  perfect  form  ol 
an  eye  ;  but  this  was  not  all — it  must  be  coloured  to  resemble 
nature.  I  sent  for  a  poor  carriage-painter,  who  managed  to 
imitate  tolerably  well  the  left  eye  of  Don  Juan.  It  was 
necessary  to  preserve  this  painting  from  contact  with  the  tears, 
which  would  soon  have  destroyed  it.  To  accomplish  this  I 
had  made  by  a  jeweller  a  silver  globe,  smaller  than  the  glass 
eye,  inside  which  I  united  it  by  means  of  sealing-wax.  I 
carefully  polished  the  edges  upon  a  stone,  and  after  eight  days' 
labour  I  obtained  a  satisfactory  result.  The  eye  which  I  had 
succeeded  in  producing  was  really  not  so  bad  after  all.  I  was 
anxious  to  place  it  within  the  vacant  orbit.  It  somewhat  inconve 
nienced  the  Senor  Don  Juan,  but  I  persuaded  him  that  he 
would  soon  become  accustomed  to  it.  Placing  across  his  nose 
a  pair  of  spectacles,  he  examined  himself  in  the  looking-glass, 
ajpd  was  so  satisfied  with  his  appearance  that  ho  decided  on 
commencing  his  visits  the  following  day. 

As  I  had  anticipated,  the  re-appearance  in  the  world  of 


44  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

Captain  Juan  Porras  made  a  great  sensation,  and  soon  tlio 
consequence  was,  that  Senor  Don  Pablo,  the  eminent  French 
physician — most  especially  the  clever  oculist — was  much  spoken 
of.  From  all  quarters  patients  came  to  me.  Notwithstanding 
my  youth  and  inexperience,  my  first  success  gave  me  such 
confidence  that  I  performed  several  operations  upon  persons 
afflicted  with  cataracts,  which  succeeded  most  fortunately.  I 
no  longer  sufficed  to  my  large  connection,  and  in  a  few  days, 
from  the  greatest  distress,  I  attained  perfect  opulence :  I 
had  a  carriage-and-four  in  my  stables.  I  could  not,  however, 
notwithstanding  this  change  of  fortune,  resign  myself  to  leave 
Don  Juan's  house,  out  of  gratitude  for  the  hospitality  he  so 
generously  offered  me.  In  my  leisure  hours  he  kept  me 
company,  and  amused  me  with  the  recital  of  his  battle  stories 
and  personal  adventures.  J  had  already  spent  nearly  six 
months  with  him,  when  a  circumstance,  which  forms  an  epoch 
in  my  life,  changed  my  existence,  and  compelled  me  to  quit 
the  lively  captain.  One  of  my  American  friends  often  called 
my  attention  in  our  walks  towards  a  young  lady  in  mourning, 
who  passed  for  one  of  the  prettiest  senoras  of  the  town.  Each 
time  we  met  her  my  American  friend  never  failed  to  praise 
the  beauty  of  the  Marquesa  de  Las  Salinas.  She  was  about 
eighteen  or  nineteen  years  of  age ;  her  features  were  both 
regular  and  placid ;  she  had  beautiful  black  hair,  and  large 
expressive  eyes  ;  she  was  the  widow  of  a  colonel  in  the  guards, 
who  married  her  when  almost  a  child.  The  sight  of  this 
young  lady  produced  so  lively  an  impression  upon  me,  that 
I  explored  all  the  saloons  at  Binondoc,  to  endeavour  to  meet 
her  elsewhere  than  in  my  walks.  Fruitless  attempts  !  The 
young  widow  saw  nobody.  I  almost  despaired  of  finding  an 
opportunity  of  speaking  to  her,  when  one  morning  an  Indian 


AUSPICIOUS    INTRODUCTION  —  MARRIAGE.  45 

came  to  request  me  to  visit  his  master.  I  got  into  the 
carnage  and  set  off,  without  informing  myself  of  the  name 
of  the  .sick  person.  The  carriage  stopped  before  the  door  cf 
one  of  the  finest  houses  in  the  Faubourg  of  Santa-Crux. 
Having  examined  the  patient,  and  conversed  a  few  minutes 
with  him,  I  went  to  the  table  to  write  a  prescription ;  suddenly 
I  heard  the  rustling  of  a  silk  dress ;  I  turned  round — the 
pen  fell  from  my  hand.  Before  me  stood  the  very  lady  1 
had  so  long  sought  after — appearing  to  me  as  in  a  dream ! 
My  amazement  was  so  great  that  I  muttered  a  few  unin 
telligible  words,  and  bowed  with  such  awkwardness  that  she 
smiled.  She  simply  addressed  me  to  inquire  the  state  of  her 
nephew's  health,  and  withdrew  almost  immediately.  As  to 
myself,  instead  of  making  my  ordinary  calls,  I  returned  home ; 
questioned  Don  Juan  minutely  about  Madame  de  Las  Salinas  : 
he  entirely  satisfied  my  curiosity.  He  was  acquainted  with 
all  the  family  of  this  youthful  widow,  and  they  were  highly 
respected  in  the  colony.  The  next  morning,  and  following 
days,  i  returned  to  this  charming  widow,  who  graciously  con 
descended  to  receive  me  with  favour.  These  details  being  so 
completely  personal,  I  pass  them  over.  Six  months  after  my 
first  interview  with  Madame  de  Las  Salinas,  I  asked  her  hand, 
and  obtained  it.  I  had  therefore  found,  at  more  than  five 
thousand  leagues  from  my  country,  both  happiness  and  wealth. 
I  agreed  that  we  should  go  to  France  as  soon  as  my  wife's 
property,  the  greater  part  of  which  lay  in  Mexico,  should  be 
realised.  In  the  meantime  my  house  was  the  rendezvous 
of  foreigners,  particularly  of  the  French,  who  were  already 
rather  numerous  at  Manilla.  At  this  period  the  Spanish 
government  named  me  Surgeon-Major  of  the  1st  Light  Regi 
ment,  and  of  the  first  battalion  of  the  militia  of  Panjanga. 


4(>  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

Having  been  so  successful  in  so  short  a  time,  I  never  once 
doubted  but  that  fortune  would  continue  to  bestow  her  smiling 
favours  upon  me.  I  had  already  prepared  everything  for  my 
return  to  France ;  for  we  hourly  expected  the  arrival  of  the 
galleons  that  plied  from  Acapulco  to  Manilla,  which  were  to 
bring  my  wife's  fortune.  Her  fortune  was  no  less  than 
700,000  francs  (£28,000  sterling). 

One  evening,  as  we  were  taking  tea,  we  were  informed 
that  the  vessels  from  Acapulco  had  been  telegraphed,  and  that 
the  next  morning  they  would  be  in;  our  piasters  were  to  be 
on  board  ;  I  leave  you  to  guess  if  our  wishes  were  not  gratified. 
But,  alas  !  how  our  hopes  were  frustrated :  the  vessels  did 
not  bring  us  a  single  piaster.  This  is  what  occurred :  five  or 
six  millions  were  sent  by  land  from  Mexico  to  San  Bias,  the 
place  of  embarkation,  and  the  Mexican  government  had  the 
van  escorted  by  a  regiment  of  the  line,  commanded  by  Colonel 
Iturbide.  On  the  journey  he  took  possession  of  the  van, 
and  fled  with  his  regiment  into  the  independent  states.  It 
is  well  known  that  later  Iturbide  was  proclaimed  Emperor 
of  Mexico,  then  dethroned,  and  at  last  shot,  after  an  expedition 
that  offers  more  than  one  analogy  with  that  of  Murat.  The 
very  day  of  the  arrival  of  the'vessels  we  learnt  that  our  fortune 
was  entirely  lost,  without  even  hopes  of  regaining  the  smallest 
part.  My  wife  and  self  supported  this  event  with  tolerable 
philosophy.  It  was  not  the  loss  of  our  piasters  that  distressed 
us  the  most,  but  the  necessity  we  were  in  to  abandon,  or  at 
least  to  postpone,  our  journey  to  France. 


S8 


^-.(^u^^5-^ 
i  J 
"  ^^-^v^r^r^X-- 

;^;^^^P?5IS:^ 


..punish  Mi- Us  oi  the  bujiej  ior  cias 


CHAPTEE    III. 

Continued  Prosperity  in  Practice — Attempted  Political  Revolution — Desperate 
Street  Engagement — Subjugation  of  the  Insurgents — The  Emperor  of  a  Day 
— Dreadful  Executions — Illness  and  Insanity  of  my  Wife — Her  Recovery 
and  Relapse — Removal  to  the  Country — Beneficial  Results — Dangerous 
Neighbours  —  Repentant  Banditti  —  Fortunate  Escape  —  The  Anonymous 
Friend — A  Confiding  Wife — Her  Final  Recovery,  and  our  Domestic  Happi 
ness  Restored. 

TPvESPITE  the  misfortune  I  have  alluded  to,  I  kept  up 
•*•'  my  house  in  the  same  style  as  before.  My  connec 
tion,  and  the  different  posts  I  occupied,  permitted  me  to  lead 
the  life  of  a  grandee  belonging  to  the  Spanish  colonies ;  and 
probably  I  should  have  made  my  fortune  in  a  few  years,  if 


48  TWENTY    TEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES, 

I  bad  continued  in  the  medical  profession,  but  the  wish  for 
unlimited  liberty  caused  me  to  abandon  all  these  advantages 
for  a  life  of  peril  and  anxiety.  At  the  same  time  do  not  let 
us  anticipate  too  suddenly,  and  let  the  reader  patiently  peruse 
a  few  more  pages  about  Manilla,  and  various  events  wherein  1 
figured,  either  as  actor  or  witness,  before  taking  leave  of  a 
sybarite  citizen's  Itfe 

I  was,  as  I  said  before,  surgeon-major  of  the  1st  Light 
Regiment  of  the  line,  and  on  intimate  terms  with  the  staff,  and 
more  particularly  with  Captain  Novales,  a  Creole  by  birth,  pos 
sessing  a  courageous  and  venturesome  disposition.  He  was  sus 
pected  of  endeavouring  to  excite  his  regiment  to  rebel  in  behalf 
of  the  Independence.  An  inquiry  was  consequently  instituted, 
which  ended  without  proof  of  the  captain's  culpability ;  neverthe 
less,  as  the  governor  still  maintained  his  suspicious,  he  gave 
orders  for  him  to  be  sent  to  one  of  the  southern  provinces,  under 
the  inspection  of  an  alcaide.  Novales  came  to  see  me  the  morn 
ing  of  his  departure,  and  complained  bitterly  of  the  injustice  of 
the  governor  towards  him,  and  added  that  those  who  had  no 
confidence  in  his  honour  would  repent,  and  that  ho  would  soon 
be  back.  I  endeavoured  to  pacify  him  :  we  shook  hands,  and  in 
the  evening  he  went  on  board  the  vessel  commissioned  to  take 
Him  to  his  destination.  The  night  after  Novales  departure,  I 
was  startled  out  of  rny  sleep  by  the  report  of  fire-arms.  I 
immediately  dressed  myself  in  my  uniform,  and  hastened  to 
the  barracks  of  my  regiment.  The  streets  were  deserted; 
sentinels  were  stationed  at  about  fifty  paces  apart.  I  under 
stood  that  an  extraordinary  event  had  occurred  in  some  part 
of  the  town.  When  I  reached  the  barracks  I  was  no  little 
astonished  to  find  the  gates  wide  open,  the  sentry's  box  vacant, 
and  not  a  soldier  within.  I  went  into  the  infirmary,  set  apart 


ATTEMPTED    POLITICAL   REVOLUTION.  49 

for  the  special  service  of  the  cholera  patients,  and  there  a 
serjeant  told  me  that  the  bad  weather  had  compelled  the 
vessel  that  was  taking  Novales  into  exile  to  return  into  the 
port ;  that  about  one  o'clock  in  the  morning,  Novales,  accom 
panied  by  Lieutenant  Ruiz,  came  to  the  barracks,  and  having 
made  himself  certain  of  the  votes  of  the  Creole  non-commissioned 
officers,  put  the  regiment  under  arms,  took  possession  of  the 
gates,  and  proclaimed  himself  Emperor  of  the  Philippines. 

This  extraordinary  intelligence  caused  me  some  anxiety. 
My  regiment  had  openly  revolted ;  if  I  joined  it,  and  were 
defeated,  I  should  be  considered  a  traitor,  and,  as  such,  shot ; 
if,  on  the  contrary,  I  fought  against  it,  and  the  rebels  proved 
victorious,  I  knew  Novales  sufficiently  well  to  be  convinced  that 
he  would  not  spare  me.  Nevertheless  I  could  not  hesitate :  duty 
bound  me  to  the  Spanish  government,  by  which  I  had  been  so 
ivell  treated.  I  left  the  barracks,  rambling  where  chance  might 
lead  me.  I  shortly  found  myself  at  the  head-quarters  of  the  artil 
lery  ;  an  officer  behind  the  gate  stood  observing  me.  I  went  up 
to  him,  and  asked  him  whether  he  was  for  Spain.  Upon  his 
answering  me  in  the  affirmative,  I  begged  him  to  open  the 
gate,  declaring  that  I  wished  to  join  his  party,  and  would 
willingly  offer  my  services  as  surgeon  to  them.  I  went  in,  and 
took  the  commander's  orders,  which  soon  showed  me  how 
matters  stood.  During  the  night  Ruiz  went,  in  the  name  of 
Novales,  to  General  Folgueras,  the  commander  during  the 
absence  of  Governor  Martin es,  who  was  detained  at  his  country 
house,  a  short  distance  from  Manilla.  He  took  the  guard 
unawares,  and  seized  the  keys  of  the  town,  after  having  stabbed 
Folgueras;  from  thence  he  went  to  the  prisons,  set  the  pri 
soners  at  liberty,  and  put  in  their  places  the  principal  men  of 
the  public  offices  belonging  to  the  colony.  The  1st  Regi 


50 


TWENTY   YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 


ment  was  on  Government  Place,  ready  to  engage  in  battle ; 
twice  it  attempted  to  fall  unexpectedly  upon  the  artillery  and 
citadel,  but  was  driven  back.  Many  expected  assistance  from 
without,  and  orders  from  General  Martines  to  attack  the 
rebels.  Very  soon  we  heard  a  discharge  of  artillery :  it  was 
General  Martines,  who,  at  the  head  of  the  Queen's  Regiment, 
broke  open  Saint  Lucy's  Gate,  and  advanced  into  the  besieged 
town.  The  body  of  the  artillery  joined  the  governor-general, 
and  we  marched  towards  Government  Place.  The  insurgents 
placed  two  cannons  at  the  corner  of  each  street.  Scarcely  had 
we  approached  the  palace,  than  we  were  exposed  to  a  violent 
discharge  of  loaded  muskets.  The  head  chaplain  of  the  regi 
ment  was  the  first  victim.  We  were  then  engaged  in  a  street, 
by-  the  side  of  the  fortifications,  and  from  which  it  was  impossible 
to  attack  the  enemy  with  advantage.  General  Martines  changed 
the  position  of  the  attack,  and  in  this  condition  we  came  back 
by  the  street  of  Saint  Isabelle.  The  troops  in  two  lines  followed 


- 


DREADFUL    EXECUTIONS.  51 

both  sides  of  the  street,  and  left  the  road  free ;  in  the  mean 
time  the  Panpangas  regiment,  crossing  the  bridge,  reached  us 
by  one  of  the  opposite  streets  :  the  rebels  were  then  exposed  to 
the  opposite  attacks.  They  nevertheless  defended  themselves 
furiously,  and  their  sharpshooters  did  us  some  harm.  No  vales 
was  everywhere,  encouraging  his  soldiers  by  words,  exploits, 
and  example,  while  Lieutenant  Ruiz  was  busy  pointing  one  of 
the  cannons,  that  swept  the  middle  of  the  street  we  were 
coming  up.  At  length,  after  three  hours'  contest,  the  rebels 
succumbed.  The  troops  fell  upon  everything  they  found, 
and  Novales  was  taken  prisoner  to  the  governor's.  As  to 
Ruiz,  although  he  had  received  a  blow  on  his  arm  from  a  ball, 
he  was  fortunate  enough  to  jump  over  the  fortifications,  and 
succeeded,  for  the  time,  in  escaping;  three  days  afterwards  he 
was  taken.  The  conflict  was  scarcely  over,  than  a  court-martial 
was  held.  Novales  was  tried  the  first.  At  midnight  he  was  out 
lawed  ;  at  two  o'clock  in  the  morning  proclaimed  Emperor;  and 
at  five  in  the  evening  shot.  Such  changes  in  fortune  are  not 
uncommon  in  Spanish  colonies. 

The  court-martial,  without  adjourning,  tried,  until  the 
middle  of  the  following  day,  all  the  prisoners  arrested  with 
arms.  The  tenth  part  of  the  regiment  was  sent  to  the  hulks, 
and  all  the  non-commissioned  officers  were  condemned  to 
death.  I  received  orders  to  be  at  Government  Place  by  four 
o'clock,  on  which  spot  the  executions  were  to  take  place ;  two 
companies  of  each  battalion  of  the  garrison,  and  all  the  staff, 
were  to  be  present. 

Towards  five  the  doors  of  the  town-hall  opened,  and 
between  a  double  file  of  soldiers  advanced  seventeen  non 
commissioned  officers,  each  one  assisted  by  two  monks  of  the 
order  of  Misericordia.  Mournful  silence  prevailed,  interrupted 


J2  TWENTY   YEARS   IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

every  now  and  then  by  the  doleful  beating  of  the  drums,  and 
the  prayers  of  the  agonising,  chanted  by  the  monks.  The 
procession  moved  slowly  on,  and  after  some  time  reached  the 
palace ;  the  seventeen  non-commissioned  officers  were  ordered 
to  kneel,  their  faces  turned  towards  the  wall.  After  a  lengthened 
beating  of  the  drums  the  monks  left  their  victims,  and  at  a 
second  beating  a  discharge  of  muskets  resounded :  the  seven 
teen  young  men  fell  prostrate  on  the  ground.  One,  however, 
was  not  dead;  he  had  fallen  with  the  others,  and  seemed 
apparently  motionless.  A  few  minutes  after  the  monks  threw 
their  black  veils  upon  the  victims  :  they  now  belonged  to  Divine 
justice.  I  witnessed  all  that  had  just  happened.  I  stood  a 
few  steps  from  him  who  feigned  death  so  well,  and  my  heart 
beat  with  force  enough  to  burst  through  my  chest.  Would 
that  it  had  been  in  my  power  to  lead  one  of  the  monks 
towards  this  unfortunate  young  man  who  must  have  experienced 
such  mortal  anguish ;  but,  alas  !  after  having  been  so  mira 
culously  spared,  at  the  moment  the  black  veil  was  about  to  cover 
him,  an  officer  informed  the  commander  that  a  guilty  man 
had  escaped  being  punished ;  the  monks  were  arrested  in  their 
pious  ministry,  and  two  soldiers  received  orders  to  approach 
and  fire  upon  the  poor  fellow. 

I  was  indignant  at  this.  I  advanced  towards  the  informer 
and  reproached  him  for  his  cruelty;  he  wished  to  reply;  I 
treated  him  as  a  coward,  and  turned  my  back  to  him.  Express 
orders  from  my  colonel  compelled  me  to  leave  my  house,  to 
assist  at  this  frightful  execution;  still,  deep  anxiety  ought  to 
have  prevented  me  from  so  doing,  as  I  will  explain.  On  the  eve 
when  the  battle  was  over,  and  the  insurgents  routed,  the  dis 
tress  of  my  dear  Anna  came  across  my  mind.  It  was  now 
one  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  she  had  received  no  tidings 


ILLNESS   AND    INSANITY    OF    MY   WIFK.  53 

from  me  since  three  in  the  morning ;  might  she  not  think  me 
dead,  or  in  the  midst  of  the  rebellion  ?  Ah !  if  duty  could 
make  me  forget  for  a  moment  she  whom  I  loved  more  than 
life,  now  all  danger  was  over  her  charming  image  returned  to 
my  mind.  Dearest  Anna  !  I  beheld  her  pale,  agitated ;  asking 
herself  at  each  report  of  the  cannon  whether  it  rendered  her  a 
widow ;  when  my  mind  became  so  agitated  that  I  ran  home  to 
calm  her  fears.  Having  reached  my  house  I  went  quickly  up 
stairs,  my  heart  beating  violently;  I  paused  for  a  moment  at 
her  door,  then  summoning  a  little  courage  I  entered.  Anna 
was  kneeling  down  praying ;  hearing  my  footsteps  she  raise,! 
her  head,  and  threw  herself  into  my  arms  without  uttering  a 
word  At  first  I  attributed  this  silence  to  emotion,  but,  alas ! 
upon  examining  her  lovely  face,  I  saw  her  eyes  looked  wild, 
her  features  contracted :  I  started  back.  I  discovered  in  her 
all  the  symptoms  of  congestion  of  the  brain.  I  dreaded 
lest  my  wife  had  lost  her  senses,  and  this  fear  alarmed  me 
greatly.  How  fortunate  it  was  that  it  lay  in  my  power  to 
relieve  her.  I  had  her  placed  in  bed,  and  ministered  myself  to 
her  wants.  She  was  tolerably  composed ;  the  few  words  she 
uttered  were  inconsistent ;  she  seemed  to  think  that  somebody 
was  going  to  poison  or  kill  her.  All  her  confidence  was  placed 
in  me.  During  three  days  the  remedies  I  prescribed  and 
administered  were  useless  ;  the  poor  creature  derived  no 
benefit  from  them.  I  therefore  determined  to  consult  tbo 
doctors  in  Manilla,  although  1  had  no  great  opinion  of  their 
skill.  They  advised  some  insignificant  drugs,  and  declared  to 
me  that  there  were  no  hopes,  adding,  as  a  philosophical  mode 
of  consolation,  that  death  was  preferable  to  the  loss  of  reason. 
I  did  not  agree  on  this  point  with  these  gentlemen :  I  would 
have  preferred  insanity  to  death,  for  I  hoped  that  her  madness 


54  TWENTY   YEARS   IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

would  die  away  by  degrees,  and  eventually  disappear  altogether 
How  many  mad  people  are  cured,  what  numbers  daily  recover* 
yet  death  is  the  last  word  of  humanity ;  and,  as  a  young  poet 
has  truly  said,  is  "the  stone  of  the  tomb." 

Between  the  world  and  God  a  curtain  falls !  I  determined 
to  wage  a  war  against  death,  and  to  save  my  Anna  by  having 
recourse  to  the  most  indisputable  resources  of  science.  I 
looked  now  upon  my  brotherhood  with  more  contempt  than 
ever,  and,  confident  in  my  love  and  zealous  will,  I  began  my 
struggle  with  a  destiny,  tinged  indeed  with  gloomy  clouds.  I 
shut  myself  up  in  the  sick-chamber,  and  never  left  my  wife. 
I  had  great  difficulty  in  getting  her  to  take  the  medicaments  I 
trusted  she  would  derive  so  much  benefit  from ;  I  was  obliged 
to  call  to  my  assistance  all  the  influence  I  had  over  her,  in 
order  to  persuade  her  that  the  draughts  I  presented  to  her 
were  not  poisoned.  She  did  not  sleep,  but  appeared  very 
drowsy;  these  symptoms  denoted  very  clearly  great  disorder  of 
the  brain.  For  nine  days  she  remained  in  this  dreadful  state ; 
during  which  time  I  scarcely  knew  whether  she  was  dead  or 
alive ;  at  every  moment  I  besought  the  Almighty  to  work  a 
miracle  in  her  behalf.  One  morning  the  poor  creature 
closed  her  eyes.  I  cannot  describe  my  feelings  of  anguish. 
Would  she  ever  awake  again?  I  leant  over  her;  I  heard 
her  breathing  gently,  without  apparent  effort;  I  felt  her 
pulse,  it  beat  calmer  and  more  regular;  she  was  evidently 
better.  I  stood  by  her  in  deep  anxiety.  She  still  remained 
in  a  calm  sleep,  and  at  the  end  of  half-an-hour  1  felt  con 
vinced  that  this  satisfactory  crisis  would  restore  my  invalid 
to  life  and  reason.  I  sat  down  by  her  bed-side,  and  stayed  there 
eighteen  hours,  watching  her  slightest  movements.  At  length, 
after  such  cruel  suspense,  my  patient  awoke,  as  if  out  of  a  dream. 


HER    RECOVERY   AND    RELAPSE.  65 

"Have  you  been  long  watching?"  she  said,  giving  me  her 
hand  :  "  Have  I,  then,  been  very  ill  ?  What  care  you  have  taken 
of  me  !  Luckily  you  may  rest  now,  for  I  feel  I  am  recovered." 

I  think  I  have  during  my  life  been  a  sharer  of  the 
strongest  emotions  of  joy  or  of  sadness  man  can  feel ;  but 
never  had  I  experienced  such  real,  heartfelt  joy  as  when  I 
heard  Anna's  words.  It  is  easy  to  imagine  the  state  of  my 
mind  in  recollecting  the  -bitter  grief  I  was  in  for  ten  days ; 
then  can  be  understood  the  mental  anguish  1  felt.  Having 
witnessed  such  strange  scenes  for  a  considerable  time,  it  would 
not  have  been  surprising  had  I  lost  my  senses.  I  was  an 
actor  in  a  furious  battle;  I  had  seen  the  wounded  falling 
around  me,  and  heard  the  death-rattle.  After  the  frightful 
execution,  I  went  home,  and  there  still  deeper  grief  awaited 
me.  I  had  watched  by  the  bed-side  of  a  beloved  wife,  know 
ing  not  whether  I  should  lose  her  for  ever,  or  see  her  spared 
to  me  deprived  of  reason  ;  when  all  at  once,  as  if  by  a  miracle, 
this  dear  companion  of  my  life,  restored  to  health,  threw 
herself  into  my  arms.  I  wept  with  her ;  my  burning  eyes, 
aching  for  want  of  rest,  found  at  last  some  tears,  but  they 
were  tears  of  joy  and  gladness.  Soon  we  became  more  com 
posed  ;  we  related  to  each  other  all  that  we  had  suffered.  Oh ! 
the  sympathy  of  loving  hearts !  Our  sorrows  had  been  the 
same,  we  had  shared  the  same  fears,  she  for  me  and  I  for 
her.  Anna's  rapid  recovery,  after  her  renovating  slumber, 
enabled  her  to  get  up;  she  dressed  herself  as  usual,  and 
the  people  who  saw  her  could  not  believe  she  had  passed 
ten  days  struggling  between  death  and  insanity — two  gulplis, 
from  which  love  and  faith  had  preserved  us. 

I  was  happy  ;  my  deep  sadness  was  speedily  changed  tc 
gladness,  even  visible  on  my  features.     Alas!  this  joy  was  trail 


50  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PH1LIPF1N  KS. 

sitory,  like  all  happiness  ;  man  here  below  is  a  continual  prey 
to  misfortune !  My  wife,  at  the  end  of  a  month,  relapsed  into 
her  former  sickly  state;  the  same  symptoms  showed  them-- 
selves  again,  with  similar  prospects,  during  the  same  space 
of  time.  I  remained  again  nine  clays  at  her  bed-side,  and 
on  the  tenth  a  refreshing  sleep  brought  her  to  her  senses 
But  this  time,  guided  by  experience,  that  pitiless  mistress,  who 
gives  us  lessons  we  should  ever  remember,  I  did  not  rejoice 
as  I  had  done  the  month  before.  I  feared  lest  this  sudden 
cure  might  only  be  a  temporary  recovery,  and  that  every 
month  my  poor  invalid  would  relapse,  until  her  brain  becoming 
weaker  and  weaker,  she  would  be  deranged  for  life.  This  sad 
idea  wounded  my  heart,  and  caused  me  such  grief  that  I 
could  not  even  dissimulate  it  before  her  who  inspired  it.  I 
exhausted  all  the  resources  of  medicine ;  all  these  expedients 
proved  unavailable.  I  thought  that  perhaps,  if  I  removed  my 
poor  invalid  from  the  spot  where  the  events  had  occurred  that 
caused  her  disorder,  her  cure  might  be  more  easily  effected  ; 
that  perhaps  bathing  and  country  walks  in  the  fine  weather 
would  contribute  to  hasten  her  recovery ;  therefore  I  invited 
one  of  her  relations  to  accompany  us,  and  we  set  out  for  Tierra- 
Alta,  a  delightful  spot,  a  real  oasis,  where  all  things  were 
assembled  that  could  endear  one  to  life.  The  first  days  of 
our  settling  there  were  full  of  joy,  hope,  and  happiness. 
Anna  got  better  and  better  every  day,  and  her  health  very 
much  improved.  We  walked  in  beautiful  gardens,  under  the 
shade  of  orange-trees  ;  they  were  so  thick  that  even  during  the 
most  intense  heat  we  were  cool  under  their  shade.  A  lovely 
river  of  blue  and  limpid  water  ran  through  our  orchard ;  I 
had  some  Indian  baths  erected  there.  We  went  out  in  a 
pretty,  light,  open  carriage,  drawn  by  four  good  horses,  through 


DANGEROUS    NEIGHBOURS — REPENTANT  BANDITTI.  57 

beautiful  avenues,  lined  on  each  side  with  the  pliant  bamboo, 
and  sown  with  all  the  various  flowers  of  the  tropics.  I  leave 
you  to  judge,  by  this  short  account,  that  nothing  that  can  be 
wished  for  in  the  country  was  wanting  in  Tierra-Alta.  For 
un  invalid  it  was  a  Paradise  ;  but  those  are  right  who  say 
there  is  no  perfect  happiness  here  below.  I  had  a  wife  I 
adored,  and  who  loved  me  with  all  the  sincerity  of  a  pure 
young  heart.  We  lived  in  an  Eden,  away  from  the  world, 
from  the  noise  and  bustle  of  a  city,  and  far,  too,  from  the 
jealous  and  envious.  We  breathed  a  fragrant  air;  the  pure  and 
limpid  waters  that  bathed  our  feet  reflecting,  by  turns  a  sunny 
sky,  and  one  spangled  with  twinkling  stars.  Anna's  health  was 
improving:  it  pleased  me  to  see  her  so  happy.  What,  then, 
was  there  to  trouble  us  in  our  lovely  retreat?  A  troop  of 
banditti !  These  robbers  were  distributed  around  the  suburbs 
of  Tierra-Alta,  and  spread  desolation  over  the  country  and 
neighbourhood  by  the  robberies  and  murders  they  com 
mitted.  There  was  a  regiment  in  search  of  them  ;  this  they 
little  cared  about.  They  were  numerous,  clever,  and  audacious ; 
and,  notwithstanding  the  vigilance  of  the  government,  the  band 
continued  their  highway  robberies  and  assassinations.  In  the 
house  where  I  then  resided,  and  which  I  afterwards  left, 
Aguilar,  the  commander  of  the  cavalry,  who  had  replaced 
me  as  occupant,  was  fallen  upon  unexpectedly,  and  stabbed. 
Several  years  after  this  period,  the  government  was  obliged 
to  come  to  some  terms  with  these  bandits,  and  one  day  twenty 
men,  all  armed  with  carbines  and  swords,  entered  Manilla. 
Their  chieftain  led  them  ;  they  walked  with  their  heads  upright, 
their  carriage  was  proud  and  manly ;  in  this  order  they  went 
to  the  governor,  who  made  them  a  speech,  ordered  them  to 
lay  down  their  arms,  and  sent  them  to  the  archbishop  that 

c* 


58  TWENTY   YEAKS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

he  might  exhort  them.  The  archbishop  in  a  religious  discourse 
implored  of  them  to  repent  of  their  crimes,  and  become  honest 
citizens,  and  to  return  to  their  villages.  These  men,  who  had 
bathed  their  hands  in  the  blood  of  their  fellow-creatures,  and 
who  had  sought  in  crime — or  rather,  in  every  crime — the  gold 
they  coveted,  listened  attentively  to  God's  minister,  changed 
completely  their  conduct,  and  became,  in  the  end,  good  and 
quiet  husbandmen. 

Now  let  us  return  to  my  residence  at  Tierra-Alta,  at  the 
period  when  the  bandits  were  not  converted,  and  might  have 
disturbed  my  peaceful  abode  and  security.  Nevertheless, 
whether  it  was  carelessness,  or  the  confidence  I  had  in  my 
Indian,  with  whom  I  spe.nt  some  time  after  the  ravages 
occasioned  with  the  cholera,  and  with  whose  influence  I  was 
acquainted,  I  did  not  fear  the  bandits  at  all.  This  Indian 
lived  a  few  leagues  off  from  Tierra-Alta ;  he  came  often  to 
see  me,  and  said  to  me  on  different  occasions  :  "  Fear  nothing 
from  the  robbers,  Senor  Doctor  Pablo ;  they  know  we  are  friends, 
and  that  alone  would  suffice  to  prevent  them  attacking  you, 
for  they  would  dread  to  displease  me,  and  to  make  me  their 
enemy."  These  words  put  an  end  to  my  fears,  and  I  soon 
had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  that  the  Indian  had  taken  me 
under  his  protection. 

If  any  of  rny  readers  for  whom  I  write  these  souvenirs 
feel  the  same  desire  as  I  experienced  to  visit  the  cascades  oi 
Tierra-Alta,  let  them  go  to  a  place  called  Yang- Yang ;  it  was 
near  this  spot  where  my  Indian  protector  resided.  At  this 
part  the  river,  obstructed  in  its  course  by  the  narrowness  of 
its  channel,  falls  from  only  one  waterspout,  about  thirty  or 
forty  feet  high,  into  an  immense  basinj  out  of  which  the  water 
p.alroly  flows  onwards,  to  form,  lower  down,  three  other  water 


FORTUNATE    ESCAPE — ANONYMOUS    FRIEND.  59 

falls,  not  so  lofty,  but  extending  over  the  breadth  of  the  river, 
thereby  making  three  sheets  of  water,  clear  and  transparent 
as  crystal.  What  beautiful  sights  are  offered  to  the  eyes  of 
man  by  the  all-powerful  hands  of  the  Creator  !  And  how  often 
have  I  remarked  that  the  works  of  nature  are  far  superior 
to  those  that  men  tire  themselves  to  erect  and  invent ! 

As  we  went  one  morning  to  the  cascades  we  w?ere  about 
to  alight  at  Yang- Yang,  when  all  at  once  our  carriage  was 
surrounded  with  brigands,  flying  from  the  soldiers  of  the  line. 
The  chief — for  we  supposed  him  to  be  so  at  first — said  to 
his  companions,  not  paying  the  slightest  attention  to  us,  nor 
even  addressing  us :  "  We  must  kill  the  horses  ! "  By  this 
I  saw  he  feared  lest  their  enemies  should  make  use  of  our 
horses  to  pursue  them.  WTith  a  presence  of  mind  which  fortu 
nately  never  abandons  me  in  difficult  or  perilous  cicumstances, 
I  said  to  him :  "  Do  not  fear  ;  my  horses  shall  not  be  used  by 
your  enemies  to  pursue  you :  rely  upon  my  word."  The  chief 
put  his  hand  to  his  cap,  and  thus  addressed  his  comrades  :  "  If 
such  be  the  case,  the  Spanish  soldiers  will  do  us  no  harm  to 
day,  neither  let  us  do  any.  Follow  me  !  "  They  marched  off, 
and  I  instantly  drove  rapidly  away  in  quite  an  opposite  direc 
tion  from  the  soldiers.  The  bandits  looked  after  rne  ;  my  good 
faith  in  keeping  my  word  was  successful.  I  not  only  lived  a  few 
months  in  safety  at  Tierra-Alta,  but  many  years  after,  when 
I  resided  in  Jala-Jala,  and,  in  my  quality  of  commander  of  the 
territorial  horse-guards  of  the  province  of  Lagune,  was  naturally 
a  declared  enemy  of  the  bandits,  I  received  the  following  note  : 

"  SIB, — Beware  of  Pedro  Tumbaga;  we  are  invited  by  him  to  go 
to  your  house  and  to  take  you  by  surprise  ;  we  remember  the  morning 
we  spoke  to  you  at  the  cascades,  and  the  sincerity  of  your  word. 
You  are  an  honourable  man.  If  we  find  ourselves  face  to  face 


60  TWENTY   TEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

with  you,  and  it  be  necessary,  we  will  fight,  but  faithfully,  and 
never  after  having  laid  a  snare.  Keep,  therefore,  on  your  guard ; 
beware  of  Pedro  Tumbago;  he  is  cowardly  enough  to  hide  himself 
in  order  to  shoot  you." 

Everybody  must  acknowledge  I  had  to  do  with  most 
polite  robbers. 

I  answered  them  thus  : 

"  You  are  brave  fellows.  1  thank  you  for  your  advice,  but  I 
do  not  fear  Pedro  Tumboga.  I  cannot  conceive  how  it  is  you  keep 
among  you  a  man  capable  of  hiding  himself  to  kill  his  enemy; 
if  I  had  a  soldier  like  him,  I  would  soon  let  him  have  justice,  and 
without  consulting  the  law." 

A  fortnight  after  my  answer,  Tumbaga  was  no  more  ;  a 
bandit's  bullet  disembarrassed  me  of  him. 

I  will  now  return  to  the  recital  I  have  just  interrupted. 
When  T  had  left  the  bandits  at  Yang- Yang,  I  pulled  up  my 
horses  and  bethought  me  of  Anna.  I  was  anxious  to  know  what 
impression  had  been  produced  on  her  mind  from  this  un 
pleasant  encounter.  Fortunately  my  fears  were  unfounded ; 
my  wife  had  not  been  at  all  alarmed,  and  when  I  asked  her 
if  she  was  frightened,  she  replied :  "  Frightened,  indeed  !  am  I 
riot  with  you  ?"  Subsequently  I  had  good  proofs  that  she  told 
me  the  truth,  for  in  many  perilous  circumstances  she  always 
presented  the  same  presence  of  mind.  When  I  thought  there 
was  no  longer  any  danger  we  retraced  our  steps  and  went  home, 
satisfied  with  the  conduct  of  the  bandits  towards  us,  for  their 
manner  of  acting  clearly  showed  us  that  they  intended  us  no 
harm.  I  mentally  thanked  my  Indian  friend,  for  to  him  I 
attributed  the  peace  our  turbulent  neighbours  allowed  us  to 
enjoy.  The  fatal  time  was  drawing  near  when  my  wrife  would 
again  be  suffering  from  another  attack  of  that  frightful  malady 


DOMESTIC    HAPPINESS    RESTORED  61 

brought  on  by  Novales  revolt.  I  had  hoped  that  the  country 
air,  the  baths,  and  amusements  of  every  kind  would  cure  my 
poor  invalid  ;  my  hopes  were  deceived,  and,  as  in  the  preceding 
month,  I  had  the  grief  once  more  to  assist  at  a  period  of 
physical  and  mental  suffering.  I  despaired  :  I  knew  not  what 
course  to  pursue.  I  decided,  however,  upon  remaining  at 
Tierra-Alta.  My  dear  companion  was  happy  there  on  the  days 
her  health  was  better,  and  on  the  other  days  I  never  left  her, 
endeavouring  by  every  means  that  art  and  imagination  could 
invent  to  fight  against  this  fatal  malady.  At  length  my  care, 
attempts,  and  efforts  were  successful,  and  at  the  periods  the 
symptoms  usually  returned  I  had  the  happiness  not  to  observe 
them,  and  believed  in  the  certainty  of  a  final  cure.  I  then 
felt  the  joy  one  experiences  after  having  for  a  long  time  been 
on  the  point  of  losing  a  very  dear  friend,  who  suddenly  recovers. 
I  now  gave  myself  up  without  fear  to  the  various  pleasures 
Tierra-Alta  offers. 


^ffi^ 


Stag  hunting  in  tiie  Marigondon  Mountains. 


CHAPTER    TV. 


Hunting  the  Stag— Indian  Mode  of  Chasing  the  Wild  Buffalo ;  its  Ferocity- 
Dangerous  Sport — Capture  of  a  Buffalo — Narrow  Escape  of  an  Indian  Iluntei 
— Return  to  Manilla — Injustice  of  the  Governor — My  Resignation  of  Office — 
I  Purchase  Property  at  Jala-Jala — Retire  from  Manilla  to  Take  Possession  of 
my  Domains— Chinese  Legend — Festival  of  St.  Nicholas — Quinaboutasan — 
Description  of  Jala-Jala — Interview  with  a  Bandit  Chief — Formation  of  a 
Guard — Preparations  for  Building — Visit  to  Manilla,  and  Return  to  Jala-Jala 
— Completion  of  my  House — Reception  of  my  Wife  by  the  Natives — The 
Government  of  the  Philippines — Character  of  the  Tagaloc  Indians — Un 
merited  Chastisement — A  Curate  Appointed — Our  Labours  at  Civilisation — 
My  Hall  of  Justice — Buffalo  Hunting  Expedition. 

VTATURALLY  fond  of  hunting,  I  often  went  to  the  home  of 
TV      my  Indian  friend  in  the  Marigondon  mountains       To 
gether  we  chased  the  stag,  and  killed  the  various  kinds  of  birds 
which  abound  in  these  regions  to  such  an  extent  that  one  may 


HUNTING    THE    STAG.  03 

always  choose  between  fifteen  or  twenty  different  species  of 
pigeons,  wild  ducks,  and  fowl,  and  it  frequently  happened  that 
I  brought  down  five  or  six  at  a  shot.  The  manner  of  killing 
wild  fowl  (a  sort  of  pheasant)  much  amused  me.  We  rode 
across  the  large  plains,  strewed  with  young  wood,  on  good  and 
beautiful  horses,  broken  in  for  the  purpose ;  the  dogs  raised  the 
game,  and,  armed  with  whips,  we  endeavoured  to  knock  the  birds 
down  at  a  single  blow,  which  is  not  so  difficult  as  might  be 
imagined.  When  a  number  of  the  frightened  flocks  left  the 
shelter  of  the  wood  we  put  our  steeds  to  the  gallop,  and  it 
became  a  veritable  steeple-chase,  such  as  amateur  jockeys 
would  much  delight  in.  I  also  hunted  the  stag  with  the  lance, 
on  horseback ;  this  sport  is  likewise  very  amusing,  but,  unfor 
tunately,  often  attended  with  accidents.  This  is  how  they 
occur : — The  horses  employed  are  so  well  trained  to  the  sport, 
that  as  soon  as  they  perceive  the  stag  it  is  no  longer  necessary, 
neither  is  it  possible,  to  guide  them ;  they  pursue  the  animal 
at  the  top  of  their  speed,  and  leap  over  every  obstruction 
before  them.  The  horseman  carries  a  lance  seven  or  eight 
feet  long,  which  he  holds  in  readiness  to  cast  as  soon  as  he 
thinks  himself  within  reach  of  the  stag.  If  he  misses  his 
aim  the  lance  sticks  in  the  ground,  and  it  then  requires  great 
skill  to  avoid  coming  in  contact  with  the  opposite  end,  which 
often  wounds  either  the  hunter  or  the  horse.  I  speak  not  of 
the  falls  to  which  one  is  liable  from  going  at  a  furious  gallop 
along  unknown  and  uneven  roads.  I  had  already  enjoyed  this 
sport  during  my  first  sojourn  at  the  Indian's,  but,  well  as  1 
acquitted  myself,  I  was  never  able  to  gain  his  permission  that 
I  should  assist  at  a  chase  far  more  dangerous,  and  which  1 
might  almost  call  a  combat — that  of  the  wild  buffalo  To  all 
my  questions  my  host  had  replied  :  "In  this  sport  there  is 


64  TWENTY   YEARS    IN   THE    PHILIPPINES. 

much  to  fear:  I  would  not  expose  you  to  the  risk."  He 
avoided,  also,  taking  me  near  that  part  of  the  plain  touching 
upon  the  mountains  of  Marigondon,  where  these  animal's 
could  generally  be  found.  However,  after  repeated  solicitation, 
I  managed  to  obtain  what  I  so  ardently  desired  ;  the  Indian 
only  wished  to  know  whether  I  was  a  good  horseman,  if  1 
possessed  dexterity  ;  and  when  he  had  satisfied  himself  on  these 
two  points,  we  started  one  fine  morning,  accompanied  by  nine 
huntsmen  and  a  small  pack  of  dogs.  Ill  this  part  of  the 
Philippines  the  buffalo  is  hunted  on  horseback,  and  taken  with 
the  lasso,  the  Indians  not  being  much  accustomed  to  the  use 
of  guns.  In  other  parts  fire-arms  are  used,  as  I  shall  have 
occasion  to  recount  in  another  part  of  my  narrative ;  but,  in 
whichever  case,  there  is  little  difference  in  the  danger,  for 
the  one  requires  good  riding  and  great  skill,  the  other  much 
presence  of  mind  and  a  good  gun. 

The  wild  buffalo  is  quite  different  from  the  domesti 
cated-  animal ;  it  is  a  terrible  creature,  pursuing  the  hunter 
as  soon  as  it  gets  sight  of  him,  and,  should  he  transfix 
him  with  its  terrible  horns,  he  would  promptly  expiate  his 
rashness.  My  faithful  Indian  was  much  more  anxious 
about  my  safety  than  his  own.  He  objected  to  my  taking 
a  gun ;  he  had  little  confidence  in  my  skill  with  the  lasso, 
and  preferred  that  I  should  merely  sit  on  horseback,  un 
armed  and  unencumbered  in  my  movements ;  accordingly  I 
set  out,  with  a  dagger  for  my  sole  weapon.  We  divided  our 
party  by  threes,  and  rode  gently  about  the  plains,  taking  care 
to  keep  at  a  distance  from  the  edge  of  the  wood,  lest  we 
should  be  surprised  by  the  animal  we  were  seeking. 

After  riding  for  about  an  hour,  we  at  last  heard  the  baying 
of  the  dogs,  and  understood  that  the  enemy  was  forced  from  its 


DANGEROUS    SPOUT.  05 

forest  retreat.  We  watched  with  the  deepest  attention  the  spot 
where  we  expected  him  to  break  forth.  He  required  a  great  deal 
of  coaxing  before  he  would  show ;  at  last  there  was  a  sudden 
crashing  noise  in  the  wood  ;  branches  were  broken,  young  trees 
overthrown,  and  a  superb  buffalo  showed  himself,  at  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  paces' .  distance.  He  was  of  a  beautiful 
black,  and  his  horns  were  of  very  large  dimensions.  He 
carried  his  head  high,  and  snuffed  the  air  as  though  scenting 
his  enemies.  Suddenly  starting  off  at  a  speed  incredible  in 
so  bulky  an  animal,  he  made  for  one  of  our  groups,  composed 
of  three  Indians,  who  immediately  put  their  horses  to  a  gallop, 
and  distributed  themselves  in  the  form  of  a  triangle.  The- 
buffalo  selected  one  of  them,  and  impetuously  charged  him. 
As  he  did  so,  another  of  the  Indians,  whom  he  passed  in 
his  furious  career,  wheeled  his  horse  and  threw  the  lasso  he 
held  ready  in  his  hand ;  but  he  was  not  expert,  and  missed  his 
aim.  Thereupon  the  buffalo  changed  his  course,  and  pur 
sued  the  imprudent  man  who  had  thus  attacked  him,  and  who 
now  rode  right  in  our  direction.  A  second  detachment  of  three 
hunters  went  to  meet  the  brute  ;  one  of  them  passed  near  him 
at  a  gallop,  and  threw  his  lasso,  but  was  as  unsuccessful  as  his 
comrade.  Three  other  hunters  made  the  attempt ;  not  one  of 
them  succeeded.  I,  as  a  mere  spectator,  looked  on  with  ad 
miration  at  this  combat — at  those  evolutions,  flights,  and  pur 
suits,  executed  with  such  order  and  courage,  and  with  a  precision 
that  was  truly  extraordinary. 

I  had  often  witnessed  bull-fights,  and  often  had  I  shuddered 
at  seeing  the  toreadors  adopt  a  similar  method  in  order  to  turn 
the  furious  animal  from  the  pursuit  of  the  picador.  But  what 
comparison  could  possibly  be  established  between  a  combat  in 
an  enclosed  arena  and  this  one  in  the  open  plain — between  the 

E 


C6  TWENJff    YEARS    IN    THE    FHILJrriNES. 

most  terrible  of  bulls  and  a  wild  buffalo  ?  Fiery  and  hot- 
blooded  Spaniards,  proud  Castilians,  eager  for  perilous  spec 
tacles,  go,  hunt  the  buffalo  in  the  plains  of  the  Marigondon  • 
After  much  flight  and  pursuit,  hard  riding,  and  imminent  peril, 
a  dexterous  hunter  encircled  the  animal's  horns  with  his  lasso 
The  buffalo  slackened  his  speed,  and  shook  and  tossed  his 
head,  stopping  now  and  then  to  try  to  get  rid  of  the  obstacle 
which  impeded  his  career.  Another  Indian,  not  less  skilfiL 
than  his  predecessor,  threw  his  lasso  with  a  like  rapidity  and 
success.  The  furious  beast  now  ploughed  the  earth  with  his 
horns,  making  the  soil  fly  around  him,  as  if  anxious  to  display 
his  strength,  and  to  show  what  havoc  he  would  have  made  with 
any  of  us  who  had  allowed  themselves  to  be  surprised  by  him. 
With  much  care  and  precaution  the  Indians  conveyed  their 
prize  into  a  neighbouring  thicket.  The  hunters  uttered  a 
shout  of  joy ;  for  my  part  I  could  not  repress  a  cry  of  admi 
ration.  The  animal  was  vanquished  ;  it  needed  but  a  few  pro 
cautions  to  master  him  completely.  I  was  much  surprised  to 
see  the  Indians  excite  him  with  voice  and  gesture  until  he  re 
sumed  the  offensive,  and  bounded  from  the  ground  with  fury 
What  would  have  been  our  fate  had  he  succeeded  in  shaking 
off  or  breaking  the  lassos  !  Fortunately,  there  was  no  danger  of 
this.  An  Indian  dismounted,  and,  with  great  agility,  attached 
to  the  trunk  of  a  solid  tree  the  two  lassos  that  retained  the  savage 
beast ;  then  he  gave  the  signal  that  his  office  was  accomplished, 
and  retired.  Two  hunters  approached,  threw  their  lassos  over 
the  animal,  and  fixed  the  ends  to  the  ground  with  stakes  ;  and 
now  our  prey  was  thoroughly  subdued,  and  reduced  to  immo 
bility,  so  that  we  could  approach  him  with  impunity.  With 
blows  of  their  cutlasses  the  Indians  hacked  off  his  horns, 
which  would  so  well  have  revenged  him  had  he  been  free  to  use 


NARROW    ESCAPE    OF   AN    INDIAN  -HUNTER.  67 

them ;  then,  with  a  pointed  bamboo,  they  pierced  the  mem 
branes  that  separate  the  nostrils,  and  passed  through  them  a 
cane  twiste  in  the  form  of  a  ring.  In  this  state  of  martyrdom 
they  fastened  him  securely  behind  two  tame  buffaloes,  and  led 
him  to  the  next  village. 

Here  the  animal  was  killed,  and  the  hunters  divided  the 
carcass,  the  flesh  of  which  is  equal  in  flavour  to  beef.  I  had 
been  fortunate  in  my  first  essay,  for  such  encounters  with  these 
shaggy  sovereigns  of  the  plain  do  not  always  end  so  easily.  A 
few  days  afterwards  we  renewed  the  sport,  which,  alas  !  termi 
nated  with  an  accident  of  too  frequent  occurrence.  An  Indian 
was  surprised  by  a  buffalo,  at  the  moment  the  animal  issued 
from  the  wood.  With  one  blow  from  his  horns  the  horse  was 
impaled  and  cast  to  the  earth,  while  his  Indian  rider  fell  near 
to  him.  The  inequality  of  the  ground  offered  some  chance  01 
the  man  escaping  the  notice  of  his  redoubtable  foe,  until  the 
latter,  by  a  sudden  movement  of  his  head,  turned  the  horse  over 
upon  his  rider,  and  inflicted  several  blows  with  his  horns,  either 
of  which  would  have  proved  fatal,  but  from  the  force  becoming 
diminished  in  traversing  the  carcass  of  the  horse.  Fortunately 
some  of  the  other  sportsmen  succeeded  in  turning  the  animal,  and 
compelled  him  to  abandon  his  victim.  It  was  indeed  time,  for 
we  found  the  poor  Indian  half  dead,  and  terribly  gored  by  the 
horns  of  the  buffalo.  We  succeeded  in  stopping  the  blood  which 
flowed  copiously  from  his  wounds,  and  carried  him  to  the 
village  upon  a  hastily  constructed  litter.  It  was  only  by  con 
siderable  care  and  attention  that  his  cure  was  eventually  effected, 
and  my  friend  the  Indian  strongly  opposed  my  assisting  at  such 
dangerous  sport  for  the  future. 

Anna's  health  was  now  completely  re-established.  I  no 
longer  dreaded  the  return  of  her  fearful  malaclv.  During  the 


H  TWENTY   YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

space  of  several  months  I  had  enjoyed  all  the  pleasures  that 
Tierra-AHa  afforded,  and  my  affairs  now  requiring  my  presence 
at  Manilla  we  set  out  for  that  city.  Immediately  after  my 
arrival  I  was  compelled,  mucli  to  my  regret,  to  resume  my 
ordinary  occupation  ;  that  is,  to  visit  the  sick  from  morning  to 
night,  and  from  night  to  morning.  My  profession  did  not  well 
accord  with  my  natural  character,  for  I  was  not  sufficiently 
philosophic  to  witness,  without  pain,  the  sufferings  I  was  in 
capable  of  alleviating,  and,  above  all,  to  watch  the  death-beds 
of  fathers,  c£  mothers,  and  of  dearly  loved  children.  In  a 
word,  I  did  not  act  professionally,  for  I  never  sent  in  my  bills  ; 
my  patients  paid  me  when  and  how  they  could.  To  their 
honour,  I  am  bound  to  say  that  I  rarely  had  to  complain  of 
forgetfulness.  Besides,  my  appointments  permitted  me  to 
live  sumptuously,  to  have  eight  horses  in  my  stables,  and  to 
keep  open  house  to  my  friends  and  the  strangers  who  visited 
Manilla.  Soon,  however,  what  my  friends  designated  a  coup- 
de-tete  caused  me  to  lose  all  these  advantages. 

Every  month  I  summoned  a  council  of  revision  in  the 
regiment  to  which  I  belonged.  One  day  I  brought  forward 
a  young  soldier  for  rejection  ;  all  went  well  ;  but  a  native 
surgeon,  long  jealous  of  my  reputation,  was  nominated  by  the 
governor  to  make  inquiry  and  check  my  declaration.  He 
naturally  inserted  in  his  report  that  I  was  deceived ;  that  the 
malady  of  which  I  spoke  was  imaginary ;  and  he  succeeded  it 
all  this  so  well  that  the  governor,  enraged,  condemned  me  in 
a  penalty  of  six  piasters.  The  following  month  I  again 
brought  forward  the  same  soldier,  as  being  incapable  of  per 
forming  his  duties ;  a  commission  of  eight  surgeons  was  nomi 
nated  ;  their  decision  was  unanimous  in  my  favour,  and  the 
soldier  was  accordingly  discharged.  This  reparation  not  quite 


MY    RESIGNATION    OF    OFFICE.  69 

satisfying  me,  I  presented  an  appeal  to  the  governor,  who  \vould 
not  receive  it,  upon  the  strange  pretext  that  the  decision  of 
the  medical  committee  could  not  annul  his.  I  confess  that  I 
did  not  understand  this  argument.  This  method  of  reasoning, 
if  reasoning  it  was,  appeared  to  me  specious  in  the  extreme. 
Why  allow  the  innocent  to  suffer,  and  thejgnorant  practitioner, 
who  had  contradicted  my  opinions  and  deceived  himself,  to 
escape  ?  This  injustice  revolted  me.  I  am  a  Breton,  and  ] 
have  lived  with  Indians — two  natures  which  love  only  right  and 
justice.  I  was  so  much  annoyed  by  the  governor's  conduct 
towards  me  that  I  went  to  him,  not  to  make  another  recla 
mation,  but  to  tender  my  resignation  of  the  important  offices 
which  I  held.  He  received  me  with  a  specious  smile,  and  told 
me  that  after  a  little  reflection  I  should  change  my  rnind. 
The  poor  governor,  however,  was  deceived,  for,  on  leaving  his 
palace,  I  wrent  direct  to  the  minister  of  finance  and  purchased 
the  property  of  Jala- Jala.  My  course  was  marked  out,  my 
resolution  unshakable.  Although  my  resignation  was  not  yet 
duly  accepted,  I  began  to  act  as  though  I  was  completely  free. 
I  had  at  the  beginning  informed  Anna  of  the  matter,  and  had 
asked  her  if  she  would  reside  at  Jala-Jala.  "  With  you  I 
should  be  happy  anywhere."  Such  was  her  answer.  I  was 
free,  then,  to  act  as  I  pleased,  and  could  go  wherever  my 
destiny  might  lead  me.  I  forthwith  decided  upon  visiting  the 
land  that  I  had  purchased. 

For  the  execution  of  this  project  it  was  necessary  to  find 
a  faithful  Indian  upon  whom  I  could  rely.  From  among  my 
domestics  I  chose  the  coachman,  a  brave  and  discreet  man, 
who  was  devoted  to  me.  I  took  some  arms,  ammunition,  and 
provisions.  At  Lapindan,  a  small  village  near  the  town  of 
SuntaAnna,  I  freighted  a  small  boat  worked  bv  three  Indians: 


70 


TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 


t  i-v.sge-bc&t  en  the  River  I'aiig. 

and  one  morning,  without  making  my  project  known  to  my 
friends,  and  without  inquiring  whether  the  governor  had  re 
placed  me,  I  set  out  to  take  possession  of  my  domains,  respir 
ing  the  vivifying  and  pure  air  of  liberty.  I  ascended  in  my 
pirogue — -which  skimmed  along  the  surface  of  the  wraters  like  a 
sea-gull — the  pretty  river  Pasig,  which  issues  from  the  lake  of 
Bay,  and  traverses,  on  its  way  to  the  sea,  the  suburbs  of  Manilla. 
The  banks  of  this  river  are  planted  with  thickets  of  bamboo, 
and  studded  with  pretty  Indian  habitations ;  above  the  large 
town  of  Pasig  it  receives  the  waters  of  the  river  St.  Mateo,  at 
the  spot  where  that  river  unites  itself  with  that  of  the  Pasig. 
Upon  the  left  bank  are  still  seen  the  ruins  of  the  chapel  and 
parsonage  of  St.  Nicholas,  built  by  the  Chinese,  as  the  legend 
I  am  about  to  relate  informs  us 


FESTIVAL    OF    ST.    NICHOLAS.  71 

At  an  unknown  epoch,  a  Chinese  who  was  once  sailing 
in  a  canoe,  either  upon  the  river  Pasig,  or  that  of  St. 
Mateo,  suddenly  perceived  an  alligator  making  for  his  frail 
bark,  which  it  immediately  capsized.  On  his  finding  him 
self  thus  plunged  in  the  water,  the  unfortunate  Chinese, 
whose  only  prospect  was  that  of  making  a  meal  for  the 
ferocious  animal,  invoked  the  aid  of  St.  Nicholas.  You,  per 
haps,  would  not  have  done  so,  nor  I  either ;  and  we  should 
have  been  wrong,  for  the  idea  was  a  good  one.  The  good  St. 
Nicholas  listened  to  the  cries  of  the  unhappy  castaway,  appeared 
to  his  wondering  eyes,  and  with  a  stroke  of  a  wand,  like  some 
benevolent  fairy,  changed  the  threatening  crocodile  into  a  rock, 
and  the  Chinese  was  saved.  But  do  not  imagine  that  the 
legend  ends  here  ;  the  Chinese  are  not  an  ungrateful  people — 
China  is  the  land  of  porcelain,  of  tea,  and  of  gratitude.  The 
Chinese  who  had  thus  escaped  from  the  cruel  fate  that  awaited 
him,  felt  desirous  of  consecrating  the  memory  of  the  miracle ; 
and,  in  concert  with  his  brethren  of  Manilla,  he  built  a  pretty 
chapel  and  parsonage  in  honour  of  the  good  St.  Nicholas. 
This  chapel  was  for  a  long  time  officiated  in  by  a  bonze ;  and 
every  year,  at  the  festival  of  the  saint,  the  rich  Chinese  of 
Manilla  assembled  there  in  thousands,  to  give  a  series  of  fetes 
which  lasted  for  fifteen  days.  But  it  happened  that  an  arch 
bishop  of  Manilla,  looking  upon  this  worship  offered  up  by 
Chinese  gratitude  as  nothing  but  paganism,  caused  both  the 
chapel  and  parsonage  to  be  unroofed.  These  harsh  measures 
had  no  other  result  than  to  admit  the  rain  into  the  buildings ; 
but  the  worship  due  to  St.  Nicholas  still  continued,  and  remains 
to  this  day.  Perhaps  this  arises  from  the  attempt  to  sup 
press  it ! 

At  present,  at  the  period  when  this  festival  takes  place — 


72  TWENTY   YEARS   IN    TI1E    PHILIPPINES. 

that  is,  about  the  6th  of  November  every  year — a  delightful 
view  presents  itself.  During  the  night  large  vessels  may  be 
seen,  upon  which  are  built  palaces  actually  several  stories  high, 
terminating  in  pyramids,  and  lit  up  from  the  base  to  the 
summit.  All  these  lights  are  reflected  in  the  placid  waters  of 
the  river,  and  seem  to  augment  the  number  of  the  stars,  whose 
tremulous  images  dance  on  the  surface  of  the  waters  :  it  is  an 
extemporised  Venice  !  In  these  palaces  they  give  themselves 
up  to  play,  to  smoking  opium,  and  to  the  pleasures  of  music. 
The  pevete,  a  species  of  Chinese  incense,  is  burning  everywhere 
and  at  all  times  in  honour  of  St.  Nicholas,  who  is  invoked 
every  morning  by  throwing  into  the  river  small  square  pieces 
of  paper  of  various  colours.  St.  Nicholas,  however,  does  not 
make  his  appearance ;  but  the  fete  continues  for  a  fortnight, 
at  the  termination  of  which  the  faithful  retire  till  the  year 
following. 

And  now  that  the  reader  is  acquainted  with  the  legend  of 
the  crocodile,  of  the  Chinese,  and  of  the  good  St.  Nicholas,  I 
will  resume  my  voyage. 

I  sailed  on  peaceably  upon  the  Pasig,  proceeding  to  the  con 
quest  of  my  new  dominions,  and  indulging  in  golden  dreams. 
I  gazed  on  the  light  smoke  of  my  cigarette,  without  reflecting 
that  my  dreams,  my  castles  in  the  air,  must  evaporate  like  it ! 
I.  soon  found  myself  in  the  lake  of  Bay.  The  lake  occupies  an 
extent  of  thirty  leagues,  and  I  greatly  admired  this  fine  sheet 
of  water,  bounded  in  the  distance  by  mountains  of  fantastic 
forms.  At  length  I  arrived  at  Quinaboutasan — this  is  a  Tagal 
word,  which  signifies  "  that  which  is  perforated."  Quinaboutasan 
is  situated  on  a  strait,  which  separates  the  island  of  Talem  from 
the  continent.  We  stopped  for  an  hour  in  the  only  Indian  hut 
there  was  in  the  place,  to  cook  some  rire  and  take  our  repast. 


DESCRIPTION    OF   JALA-JALA.  73 

This  hut  was  inhabited  by  a  very  old  fisherman  and  his  wife. 
They  were  still,  however,  able  to  supply  their  wants  by  fishing. 
At  a  later  period  I  shall  have  occasion  to  speak  of  old  Re- 
lempago,  or  the  "  Thunderer,"  and  to  recount  his  history. 
When  I  was  in  the  centre  of  the  sheet  of  water  which  separates 
Talera  from  Jala-Jala,  I  came  in  sight  of  the  new  domain 
which  I  had  so  easily  acquired,  and  I  could  form  some  opinion 
of  my  acquisition  at  a  glance.  Jala-Jala  is  a  long  peninsula, 
extending  from  north  to  south,  in  the  middle  of  the  lake  of 
Bay.  This  peninsula  is  divided  longitudinally  for  the  space  of 
three  leagues  by  a  chain  of  mountains,  which  diminish  gradually 
in  height  till  they  become  mere  hillocks.  These  mountains, 
are  easy  of  access,  and  generally  covered  on  one  side  with  forests, 
and  on  the  other  with  fine  pasturage,  abounding  with  waving 
and  flexible  grass,  three  or  four  feet  high,  which,  agitated  by  the 
breeze,  resembles  the  waves  of  the  sea  when  in  motion.  It  is 
impossible  to  find  more  splendid  vegetation,  which  is  watered 
by  pure  and  limpid  springs  that  gush  from  the  mountain 
heights,  and  roll  in  a  meandering  course  to  join  the  waters  of  the 
lake.  These  pasture  grounds  constitute  Jala-Jala  the  greatest 
game  preserve  in  the  island  :  wild  boars,  deer,  buffaloes,  fowls, 
quail,  snipe,  pigeons  of  fifteen  or  twenty  different  varieties, 
parrots — in  short  all  sorts  of  birds  abound  in  them.  The  lake 
is  equally  well  supplied  with  aquatic  birds,  and  particularly 
wild  ducks.  Notwithstanding  its  extent,  the  island  produces 
neither  noxious  nor  carnivorous  animals ;  the  only  things  to  be 
apprehended  are  the  civet  cat,  which  only  preys  upon  birds, 
and  the  monkeys,  which  issue  in  troops  from  the  forests  to 
ravage  the  fields  of  maize  and  sugar-cane.  The  lake,  which 
abounds  with  excellent  fish,  is  less  favoured  in  this  respect 
than  the  land,  for  it  contains  numerous  crocodiles  and  alliga- 

D 


74  TWENTY    YEA11S   IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

tors,  of  such,  immense  size  that  in  a  few  moments  one  of  them 
can  tear  a  horse  to  pieces,  and  swallow  it  in  its  monstrous 
stomach.  The  accidents  they  occasion  are  frequent  and  terrible, 
and  I  have  seen  many  Indians  become  their  victims,  as  I  shall 
subsequently  relate.  I  ought,  doubtless,  to  have  begun  by 
speaking  of  the  human  beings  who  inhabited  the  forests  of 
Jala-Jala,  but  I  am  a  sportsman,  and  must  therefore  be  excused 
for  beginning  with  the  game. 

At  the  time  I  purchased  it  Jala-Jala  was  inhabited  by  some 
Malay  Indians,  who  lived  in  the  woods,  and  cultivated  a  few 
spots  of  ground.  During  the  night  they  carried  on  the  trade  of 
piracy,  and  gave  shelter  to  all  the  banditti  of  the  neigh 
bouring  provinces.  At  Manilla  this  country  had  been  described 
to  me  in  the  most  gloomy  colours.  According  to  the  citizens 
of  that  place  it  would  not  be  long  before  I  fell  a  victim  to  these 
robbers.  My  adventurous  disposition,  however,  only  made  all 
these  predictions,  instead  of  frightening  me,  increase  my  desire 
to  visit  these  men,  who  lived  in  an  almost  savage  state.  As 
soon  as  I  had  purchased  Jala-Jala,  I  had  laid  down  a  line  of 
conduct  for  myself,  the  object  of  which  was  to  attach  to  me 
such  of  the  inhabitants  as  were  the  most  to  be  dreaded.  I  re 
solved  to  become  the  friend  of  these  banditti,  and  for  this 
purpose  I  knew  that  I  must  go  amongst  them,  not  like  a  sordid 
and  exacting  landlord  but  like  a  father.  For  the  execution  of 
my  enterprise,  everything  depended  on  the  first  impression  that 
I  should  make  on  these  Indians,  who  had  become  my  vassals. 
When  I  had  landed,  I  directed  my  steps  along  the  borders  of 
the  lake,  towards  a  little  hamlet  composed  of  a  few  cabins.  I 
was  accompanied  by  my  faithful  coachman  ;  we  were  both 
armed  with  a  good  double-barreled  gun,  a  brace  of  pistols,  and 
a  sabre.  I  had  taken  the  precaution  of  ascertaining  from  some 


INTERVIEW    WITH    A    BANDIT    CHIEF.  75 

fishermen  the  name  of  the  Indian  to  whom  I  should  especially 
address  myself.  This  man,  who  was  the  most  respected  amongst 
his  countrymen,  was  called  in  the  Tagal  language,  "  Mabutiu- 
Tajo,"  which  may  be  translated  the  "  bravest  of  the  brave"  he 
was  a  thorough-paced  robber,  a  real  piratical  chief :  a  fellow  that 
would  not  hesitate  to  commit  five  or  six  murders  in  one  expedi 
tion  ;  but  he  was  brave,  and  with  a  primitive  people  bravery 
is  a  quality  before  which  they  bow  with  respect.  My  conference 
with  Mabutiu-Tajo  was  not  long.  A  few  words  were  enough  to 
win  me  his  favour,  and  to  make  him  my  faithful  servant  during 
the  whole  time  I  remained  at  Jala-Jala.  This  is  the  manner 
in  which  I  spoke  to  him  :  "  You  are  a  great  villain,"  I  said  ; 
"  I  am  the  lord  of  Jala-Jala.  I  insist  on  your  changing  your 
conduct ;  if  you  refuse,  I  shall  punish  you  for  all  your  mis 
deeds.  E  have  occasion  for  a  guard :  will  you  pledge  me  your 
honour  to  become  an  honest  man,  and  I  will  make  you  my 
lieutenant  ?" 

After  these  few  words,  Alila  (this  was  the  name  of  the 
robber)  continued  silent  for  a  few  moments,  while  his  coun 
tenance  displayed  the  marks  of  profound  reflection.  I  awaited 
his  answer  with  considerable  anxiety  and  doubt  as  to  what  it 
would  be. 

"  Master,"  he  at  length  replied,  with  enthusiasm,  presenting 
me  his  hand,  and  bending  one  knee  to  the  ground  :  "  I  shall 
be  faithful  to  you  till  death  !" 

His  answer  made  me  happy,  but  I  did  not  let  him  see 
my  satisfaction. 

"Well  and  good,"  I  replied;  "to  show  you  that  I  confide 
in  you,  take  this  weapon,  and  use  it  only  against  the  enemy." 

I  gave  him  a  Tagal  sabre,  which  bore  the  following  Spanish 
inscription,  in  large  letters :  "  No  me  sacas  sin  rason,  ni  me 


TWENTY    YEARS   IN    TIIE    PHILIPPINES. 

envainas  sin  honor."     "  Never  draw  me  unjustly,  and  never 
sheath  me  with  dishonour." 

I  translated  this  legend  into  the  Tagaloc  language :  Alila 
thought  it  sublime,  and  vowed  never  to  deviate  from  it. 

"  When  I  go  to  Manilla,"  I  added,  "  I  shall  procure  you  a 
handsome  uniform,  with  epaulettes ;  but  you  must  lose  no 
time  in  assembling  the  soldiers  you  will  have  to  command,  and 
who  are  to  form  my  guard.  Conduct  me  to  the  house  of  one 
of  your  comrades  whom  you  think  most  capable  of  obeying 
you  as  Serjeant."  We  went  some  distance  from  his  cabin  to 
the  hut  of  one  of  his  friends,  who  almost  always  accompanied 
him  in  his  piratical  excursions.  A  few  words  like  those  I  had 
spoken  to  my  future  lieutenant  produced  a  similar  influence 
on  his  comrade,  and  induced  him  to  accept  the  rank  I  offered 
him.  We  occupied  the  day  in  recruiting  amongst  the  various 
huts,  and  in  the  evening  we  had  a  guard  of  ten  effective  men, 
infantry  and  cavalry,  a  number  I  did  not  wish  to  exceed. 

Of  these  I  took  the  command  as  captain;  and  thus,  as 
will  be  seen,  I  went  promptly  to  work.  The  following  day  I 
assembled  the  population  of  the  peninsula,  and,  surrounded  by 
my  extempore  guard,  I  chose  a  situation  where  I  wished  to 
found  a  village,  and  a  site  on  which  I  wished  my  own  habita 
tion  to  be  built.  I  ordered  the  heads  of  families  to  construct 
their  huts  on  an  allotment  which  I  indicated,  and  I  directed 
my  lieutenant  to  employ  as  many  hands  as  possible,  to  quarry 
stones,  to  cut  down  timber  for  the  wood- work,  and  .to  prepare 
everything  in  short  for  my  house.  Having  issued  my  orders, 
I  departed  for  Manilla,  promising  to  return  soon.  When 
I  reached  home,  I  found  them  in  a  state  of  inquietude,  for,  as 
nothing  had  been  heard  of  me,  it  was  thought  I  had  fallen  a 
prey  to  the  crocodiles,  or  a  victim  to  the  pirates.  The  recital 


VISIT   TO    MANILLA RETURN    TO   JALA-JALA.  77 

of  my  journey,  and  the  description  I  gave  of  Jala-Jala,  far  from 
disgusting  my  wife  with  the  idea  I  had  conceived  of  inhabit 
ing  that  country,  made  her,  on  the  contrary,  impatient  to  visit 
our  estate,  and  to  establish  herself  there.  It  was,  however, 
a  farewell  she  was  taking  of  the  capital— of  its  fetes,  its  assem 
blies,  and  its  pleasures. 

I  paid  a  visit  to  the  governor.  My  resignation  had  been 
considered  as  null  and  void :  he  had  preserved  all  my  places 
for  me.  I  was  touched  by  this  goodness.  I  sincerely  thanked 
him,  but  told  him  that  I  was  really  in  earnest,  that  my  reso 
lution  was  irrevocably  fixed,  and  that  he  might  otherwise  dis 
pose  of  my  employments.  I  added,  that  I  only  asked  him  for 
one  favour,  that  of  commanding  all  the  local  gendarmerie  of 
the  province  of  La  Lagune,  with  the  privilege  of  having  a 
personal  guard,  which  I  would  form  myself.  This  favour  was 
instantly  granted,  and  a  few  days  after  I  received  my  com 
mission.  It  was  not  ambition  that  suggested  to  me  the  idea 
of  asking  for  this  important  post,  but  sound  reason.  My  object 
wns  to  establish  an  authority  for  myself  at  Jala-Jala,  and  to 
have  in  my  own  hands  the  power  of  punishing  my  Indians, 
without  recurring  to  the  justice  of  the  alcaid,  who  lived  ten 
leagues  away  from  my  dominions. 

Wishing  to  be  comfortably  settled  in  my  new  residence,  I 
drew  out  a  plan  of  my  house.  It  consisted  of  a  first-floor,  with 
five  bed-chambers,  a  large  hall,  a  spacious  drawing-room,  a  ter 
race,  and  bathing  rooms.  I  agreed  with  a  master-mason  and  a 
master  carpenter  for  the  construction  of  it ;  and  having  obtained 
arms  and  uniforms  for  my  guard,  I  set  out  again.  On  arriving 
I  was  received  with  joy  by  my  Indians,  My  lieutenant  had 
punctually  executed  my  orders.  A  great  quantity  of  material 
was  prepared,  and  several  Indian  huts  were  already  built. 


78  TWENTY    TEAKS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

This  activity  gave  me  pleasure,  as  it  evinced  a  desire  for 
my  gratification.  I  immediately  set  my  labourers  to  work, 
ordering  them  to  clear  away  the  surrounding  wood,  and  I  soon 
had  the  pleasure  of  laying  the  foundation  of  my  residence  ; 
I  then  went  to  Manilla.  The  works  lasted  for  eight  months, 
during  which  time  I  passed  backwards  and  forwards  continually 
from  Manilla  to  Jala-Jala,  and  from  Jala-Jala  to  Manilla.  I 
had  some  trouble,  but  I  was  well  repaid  for  it  when  I  saw  a 
village  rise  from  the  earth.  My  Indians  constructed  their 
huts  on  the  places  I  had  indicated ;  they  had  reserved  a  site 
for  a  church,  and,  until  this  should  be  built,  mass  was  to  be 
celebrated  in  the  vestibule  of  my  mansion.  At  length,  after 
many  journeys  to  and  fro,  which  gave  great  uneasiness  to  my 
wife,  I  was  enabled  to  inform  her  that  the  castle  of  Jala-Jala 
was  ready  to  receive  its  mistress.  This  was  a  pleasing  piece 
of  intelligence,  for  we  were  soon  to  be  no  longer  separated. 

I  quickly  sold  my  horses,  my  carriages,  and  useless  furni 
ture,  and  freighted  a  vessel  to  convey  to  Jala-Jala  all  that  I 
required.  Then,  having  taken  leave  of  my  friends,  I  quitted 
Manilla,  with  the  intention  of  not  returning  to  it  but  through 
absolute  necessity.  Our  journey  was  prosperous,  and  on  our 
arrival,  we  found  my  Indians  on  the  shore,  hailing  with  cries 
of  joy  the  welcome  advent  of  the  "  Queen  of  Jala-Jala"  for  it 
was  thus  they  called  my  wife. 

We  devoted  the  first  days  after  our  arrival  to  installing  our 
selves  in  our  new  residence,  which  it  was  necessary  to  furnish, 
and  make  both  useful  and  agreeable ;  this  we  accordingly 
effected.  And  now  that  years  have  elapsed,  and  I  am  far  re 
moved  from  that  period  of  independence  and  perfect  liberty,  I 
reflect  on  the  strangeness  of  my  destiny.  My  wife  and  I 
were  the  only  white  and  civilised  persons  in  the  midst  of  a 


THE    GOVERNMENT    OF    THE    PHILIPPINES.  79 

bronzed  and  almost  savage  population,  and  yet  I  felt  no  appre 
hension.  I  relied  on  my  arms,  on  my  self-possession,  and 
on  the  fidelity  of  my  guards.  Anna  was  only  aware  of  a  part 
of  the  dangers  we  incurred,  and  her  confidence  in  me  was  so 
great,  that  when  by  my  side  she  knew  not  what  it  was  to  fear 
When  I  was  well  established  in  my  house,  I  undertook  a 
difficult  and  dangerous  task,  that  of  establishing  order  amongst 
my  Indians,  and  organizing  my  little  town  according  to  the 
custom  of  the  Philippine  islands.  The  Spanish  laws,  with 
reference  to  the  Indians,  are  altogether  patriarchal.  Every 
township  is  erected,  so  to  speak,  into  a  little  republic.  Every 
year  a  chief  is  elected,  dependant  for  affairs  of  importance  on 
the  governor  of  the  province,  whicn  latter,  in  his  turn,  de 
pends  on  the  governor  of  the  Philippine  islands.  I  confess 
that  I  have  always  considered  the  mode  of  government  pe 
culiar  to  the  Philippines  as  the  most  convenient  and  best 
adapted  for  civilization.  The  Spaniards,  at  the  period  of  their 
conquest,  found  it  in  full  operation  in  the  isle  of  Luzon. 

I  shall  here  enter  into  some  details.  Every  Indian  popu 
lation  is  divided  into  two  classes,  the  noble  and  the  popular. 
The  first  is  composed  of  all  Indians  who  are,  or  have  been 
cabessas  de  barangay,  that  is  to  say,  collectors  of  taxes,  which 
situation  is  honorary.  The  taxes  established  by  the  Spaniards 
are  personal.  Every  Indian  of  more  than  twenty-one  years  of 
age  pays,  in  four  instalments,  the  annual  sum  of  three  francs  ; 
which  tax  is  the  same  to  the  rich  and  the  poor.  At  a  certain 
period  of  the  year,  twelve  of  the  cabessas  de  barangay  become 
electors,  and  assembling  together  with  some  of  the  old  in 
habitants  of  the  township,  they  elect,  by  ballot,  three  of  their 
number,  whose  names  are  forwarded  to  the  governor  of  the 
Philippines.  The  latter  chooses  from  amongst  these  names 


80  TWENTY   YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

whichever  he  pleases,  and  confides  to  him  for  one  year  the 
functions  of  gobernadorcillo,  or  deputy-governor.  To  distin 
guish  him  from  the  other  Indians,  the  deputy-governor  bears  a 
gold-headed  cane,  with  which  he  has  a  right  to  strike  such  of 
his  fellow-citizens  as  may  have  committed  slight  faults.  His 
functions  partake  at  the  same  time  of  those  of  mayor,  justice 
of  the  peace,  and  examining  magistrate.  He  watches  over  good 
order  and  public  tranquillity ;  he  decides,  without  appeal,  suits 
and  differences  of  no  higher  importance  than  sixteen  piasters 
(£3  6s.  8d.).  He  also  institutes  criminal  suits  of  high  im 
portance,  but  there  his  power  ceases.  The  documents  con 
nected  with  these  suits  are  sent  by  him  to  the  governor  of 
the  province,  who,  in  his  turn,  transmits  them  to  the  royal 
court  of  Manilla.  The  court  gives  judgment,  and  the  alcaid 
carries  it  into  execution.  When  the  election  for  deputy-governor 
takes  place,  the  assembled  electors  choose  all  the  officials  who 
are  to  act  under  him.  These  are  alguazils,  whose  number  is 
proportioned  to  the  population;  two  witnesses,  or  assistants, 
who  are  charged  with  the  confirmation  of  the  acts  of  the 
deputy-governor — for  without  their  presence  and  sanction  his 
acts  would  be  considered  null  and  void ;  a  jouds  de  palma,  or 
palm  judge,  with  the  functions  of  rural  guard  ;  a  vaccinator, 
bound  to  be  always  furnished  with  vaccine  matter,  for  new 
born  children ;  and  a  schoolmaster,  charged  with  public  in 
struction  ;  finally,  a  sort  of  gendarmerie,  to  watch  banditti  and 
the  state  of  the  roads  within  the  precincts  of  the  commune 
and  the  neighbouring  lands.  Men,  grown  up,  and  without 
employment,  form  a  civic  guard,  who  watch  over  the  safety  of 
the  village.  This  guard  indicates  the  hours  of  the  night,  by 
blows  struck  upon  a  large  piece  of  hollow  wood.  There  is  in 
each  town  a  parochial  house,  which  is  called  Casa  Real,  where 


KEL'LECTIONS    ON    MY    PIIESENT   POSITION.  81 

the  deputy-governor  resides.  He  is  bound  to  afford  hospi 
tality  to  all  travellers  who  pass  through  the  town,  which  hos 
pitality  is  like  that  of  the  Scotch  mountaineers — it  is  given,  but 
never  sold.  During  two  or  three  days,  the  traveller  has  a  right 
to  lodging,  in  which  he  is  supplied  with  a  mat,  a  pillow,  salt, 
vinegar,  wood,  cooking  vessels,  and — paying  for  the  same — all 
descriptions  of  food  necessary  for  his  subsistence.  If,  on  his 
departure,  he  should  even  require  horses  and  guides  to  con 
tinue  his  journey,  they  are  procured  for  him.  With  respect 
to  the  prices  of  provisions,  in  order  to  prevent  the  abuses  so 
frequent  amongst  us,  a  large  placard  is  fixed  up  in  every  Casa 
Real,  containing  a  tariff  of  the  market  prices  of  meat,  poultry, 
fish,  fruit,  &c.  In  no  case  whatever  can  the  deputy-governor 
exact  any  remuneration  for  the  trouble  he  is  at. 

Such  were  the  measures  that  I  wished  to  adopt,  and  which,  it 
is  true,  possessed  advantages  and  disadvantages.  The  greatest 
inconvenience  attending  them  was  undoubtedly  that  of  placing 
myself  in  a  state  of  dependence  upon  the  deputy-governor, 
whose  functions  gave  him  a  certain  right,  for  I  was  his  adminis 
trator.  It  is  true  that  my  rank,  as  commandant  of  all  the 
gendarmerie  of  the  province,  shielded  me  from  any  injustice 
that  might  be  contemplated  against  me.  I  knew  ve**y  well 
that,  beyond  military  service,  I  could  inflict  no  punishment  on 
my  men  without  the  intervention  of  the  deputy-governor ;  but 
I  had  sufficiently  studied  the  Indian  character  to  know  that  I 
could  only  rule  it  by  the  most  perfect  justice  and  a  well-under 
stood  severity.  But  whatever  were  the  difficulties  I  foresaw, 
without  any  apprehension  of  the  troubles  and  dangers  of  every 
description  that  I  should  have  to  surmount,  I  proceeded 
straightforward  towards  the  object  I  had  traced  out  for  myself. 
The  road  was  sterile  and  encumbered  with  rocks ;  but  I  entered 


82 


TWENTY   YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES 


Ta«?al  Indians  poaiiiliiig  noc. 

upon  it  with  courage,  and  I  succeeded  in  obtaining  over  the 
Indians  such  an  influence,  that  they  ultimately  obeyed  my 
voice  as  they  would  that  of  a  parent.  The  character  of  the 
Tagaloc  is  extremely  difficult  to  define.  Lavater  and  Gall 
would  have  been  very  much  embarrassed  by  it;  for  both  phy 
siognomy  and  craniology  would  be,  perhaps,  equally  at  a  loss 
amongst  the  Philippines. 

The  natural  disposition  of  the  Tagal  Indian  is  a  mixture  of 
vices  and  virtues,  of  good  and  bad  qualities.  A  worthy  priest 
has  said,  when  speaking  of  them:  "They  are  great  children 
and  must  be  treated  as  if  they  were  little  ones." 

It  is  really  curious  to  trace,  and  still  more  so  to  read,  the 


CHARACTER    OF    THE    TAGALOC    INDIANS.  83 

moral  portrait  of  a  native  of  the  Philippine  islands.  The 
Indian  keeps  his  word,  and  yet — will  it  be  believed  ? — he  is  a 
liar.  Anger  he  holds  in  horror,  he  compares  it  to  madness ; 
and  even  prefers  drunkenness,  which,  however,  he  despises. 
He  will  not  hesitate  to  use  the  dagger  to  avenge  himself  for  in 
justice  ;  but  what  he  can  least  submit  to  is  an  insult,  even  when 
merited.  When  he  has  committed  a  fault,  he  may  be  punished 
with  a  flogging ;  this  he  receives  without  a  murmur,  but  he 
cannot  brook  an  insult.  He  is  brave,  generous,  and  a  fatalist. 
The  profession  of  a  robber,  which  he  willingly  exercises,  is 
agreeable  to  him,  on  account  of  the  life  of  liberty  and  adven 
ture  it  affords,  and  not  because  it  may  lead  to  riches.  Gene 
rally  speaking,  the  Tagalocs  are  good  fathers  and  good  husbands, 
both  these  qualities  being  inherent.  Horribly  jealous  of  their 
wives,  but  "not  in  the  least  of  the  honour  of  their  daughters  ; 
and  it  matters  little  if  the  women  they  marry  have  com 
mitted  errors  previous  to  their  union.  They  never  ask  for  a 
dowry,  they  themselves  provide  it,  and  make  presents  to  the 
parents  of  their  brides.  They  dislike  cowards,  but  willingly 
attach  themselves  to  the  man  who  is  brave  enough  to  face 
danger.  Play  is  their  ruling  passion,  and  they  delight  in  the 
combats  of  animals,  especially  in  cock-fighting.  This  is  a 
brief  compendium  of  the  character  of  the  people  I  was  about 
to  govern.  My  first  care  was  to  become  master  of  myself.  I 
made  a  firm  resolution  never  to  allow  a  gesture  of  impatience 
to  escape  me,  in  their  presence,  even  in  the  most  critical  mo 
ments,  and  to  preserve  at  all  times  unshaken  calmness  and 
sang-froid.  I  soon  learned  that  it  was  dangerous  to  listen  to 
the  communications  that  were  made  to  me,  which  might  lead 
me  to  the  commission  of  injustice,  as  had  already  happened 
under  the  following  circumstances. 


84  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

Two  Indians  came  one  day  to  lodge  a  complaint  against 
one  of  their  comrades,  living  at  some  leagues'  distance  from 
Jala- Jala.  These  informers  accused  him  of  having  stolen 
cattle.  After  I  had  heard  all  they  had  to  say,  I  set  off  with 
my  guard  to  seize  upon  the  accused,  and  brought  him  to  my 
residence.  There  I  endeavoured  to  make  him  confess  his 
crime,  hut  he  denied  it,  and  said  he  was  innocent.  It  was  in 
vain  I  promised  him  if  he  would  tell  the  truth  to  grant  him 
his  pardon,  for  he  persisted  even  in  the  presence  of  his  accusers. 
Persuaded,  however,  that  he  was  telling  me  falsehoods,  and 
disgusted  with  his  obstinacy  in  denying  a  fact  which  had  been 
sworn  to  me,  with  every  appearance  of  sincerity,  I  ordered  him 
to  be  tied  upon  a  bench,  and  receive  a  dozen  strokes  of  a  whip. 
My  orders  were  executed ;  but  the  culprit  denied  the  charge, 
as  he  had  done  before.  This  dogged  perseverance  irritated 
me,  and  I  caused  another  correction  to  be  administered  to  him 
the  same  as  the  first.  The  unfortunate  man  bore  his  punish 
ment  with  unshaken  courage  :  but  in  the  midst  of  his  sufferings 
he  exclaimed,  in  penetrating  accents :  "  Oh !  sir,  I  swear  to 
you  that  I  am  innocent ;  but,  as  you  will  not  believe  me,  take 
me  into  your  house.  I  will  be  a  faithful  servant,  and  you  will 
soon  have  proofs  that  I  am  the  victim  of  an  infamous  calumny." 
These  words  affected  me.  I  reflected  that  this  unfortunate 
man  was,  perhaps,  not  guilty  after  all.  I  began  to  fear  I  had 
been  deceived,  and  had  unknowingly  committed  an  act  of 
injustice.  I  felt  that  private  enmity  might  have  led  these  two 
witnesses  to  make  a  false  declaration,  and  thus  induce  me  to 
punish  an  innocent  man.  I  ordered  him  to  be  untied.  "  The 
proof  you  demand,"  I  said  to  him,  "  is  easily  tried.  If  you 
are  an  honest  man,  I  shall  be  a  father  to  you ;  but  if  you 
deceive  me,  do  not  expect  any  pity  from  mo.  From  this 


UNMERITED  CHASTISEMENT — A  CURATE  APPOINTED.  65 

moment  you  shall  be  one  of  my  guard  ;  my  lieutenant  will 
provide  you  with  arms."  He  thanked  me  earnestly,  and  his 
countenance  lit  up  with  sudden  joy.  He  was  installed  in  my 
guard.  Oh!  human  justice!  how  fragile,  and  how  often  un 
intelligible  art  thou  !  Some  time  after  this  event,  I  learnt  that 
Bazilio  de  la  Cruz — this  was  the  name  of  the  man — was 
innocent  The  two  wretches  who  had  denounced  him  had  fled, 
to  avoid  the  chastisement  they  merited.  Bazilio  kept  his  pro 
mise,  and  during  my  residence  at  Jala-Jala  he  served  me 
faithfully  and  without  malice  or  ill-will.  This  fact  made  a 
lively  impression  on  me ;  and  I  vowed  that  for  the  future  I 
would  inflict  no  punishment  without  being  sure  of  the  truth  of 
the  charge  alleged.  I  have  religiously  kept  this  vow — at  least  I 
think  so  ;  for  I  have  never  since  ordered  a  single  application 
of  the  whip  until  after  the  culprit  had  confessed  his  crime. 

I  have  before  said  that  I  had  expressed  a  wish  to  have  a 
church  built  in  my  village,  not  only  from  a  religious  feeling, 
but  as  a  means  of  civilisation :  J  was  particularly  desirous  of 
having  a  curate  at  Jala-Jala.  With  this  view  I  requested 
Monseigneur  Hilarion,  the  archbishop,  whose  physician  I  had 
been,  and  with  whom  I  was  on  terms  of  friendship,  to  send  mo 
a  clergyman  of  my  acquaintance,  and  who  was  at  that  time 
unemployed.  I  had,  however,  much  difficulty  in  obtaining 
this  nomination.  "  Father  Miguel  de  San-Francisco,"  the 
archbishop  replied,  "is  a  violent  man,  and  very  headstrong : 
you  will  never  be  able  to  live  with  him."  I  persisted,  however ; 
and  as  perseverance  always  produces  some  result,  I  at  length 
succeeded  in  having  him  appointed  curate  at  Jala- Jala.  Father 
Miguel  was  of  Japanese  and  Malay  descent.  He  was  young, 
strong,  brave,  and  very  capable  of  assisting  me  in  the  difficult 
circumstances  that  might  occur ;  as,  for  example,  if  it  were 


86  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 


necessary  to  defend  ourselves  against  banditti.  Indeed  I  must 
say  that,  in  spite  of  the  anticipations,  and  I  may  add  the  pre 
judices,  of  my  honourable  friend  the  archbishop,  I  kept  him 
with  me  during  the  whole  time  of  my  abode  at  Jala-Jala,  and 
never  had  the  slightest  difference  with  him.  I  can  only  re 
proach  him  with  one  thing  to  be  regretted,  which  is  that  he 
did  not  preach  sufficiently  to  his  flock.  He  gave  them  only 
one  sermon  annually,  and  then  his  discourse  was  always  the 
same,  and  divided  into  two  parts :  the  first  was  in  Spanish,  for 
our  edification,  and  the  second  in  Tagaloc,  for  the  Indians. 
Ah  !  how  many  men  have  I  since  met  with  who  might  well 
imitate  the  worthy  curate  of  Jala- Jala !  To  the  observations 
I  sometimes  made  he  would  reply :  "  Let  me  follow  my  own 
course,  and  fear  nothing.  So  many  words  are  not  necessary  to 
make  a  good  Christian."  Perhaps  he  was  right.  Since  my 


OUR    LABOURS    AT    CIVILISATION.  87 

departure  from  the  place  the  good  priest  is  dead,  bearing  with 
him  to  the  tomb  the  regret  of  all  his  parishioners. 

As  may  be  seen,  I  was  at  the  beginning  of  my  labour  of 
civilisation.  Anna  assisted  me  with  all  her  heart,  and  with 
all  her  intelligence,  and  no  fatigue  disheartened  her.  She 
taught  the  young  girls  to  love  that  virtue  which  she  practised 
so  well  herself.  She  furnished  them  with  clothes,  for  at  this 
period  the  young  girls  from  ten  to  twelve  years  of  age  were 
still  as  naked  as  savages.  Father  Miguel  de  San  Francisco 
was  charged  with  the  mission  more  especially  belonging  to  his 
sacred  character.  The  more  readily  to  disseminate  through 
the  colony  that  instruction  which  is  the  beneficent  parent  of 
civilisation,  the  young  people  were  divided  into  squads  of  four 
at  a  time,  and  went  by  turns  to  pass  a  fortnight  at  the  parson 
age.  There  they  learned  a  little  Spanish,  and  were  moulded 
to  the  customs  of  a  world  which  had  been  hitherto  unknown 
to  them.  I  superintended  everything  in  general.  I  occupied 
myself  in  works  of  agriculture,  and  giving  proper  instruction  to 
the  shepherds  who  kept  the  flocks  I  had  purchased  to  make 
use  of  my  pasturage.  I  was  also  the  mediator  of  all  the  differ 
ences  which  arose  amongst  my  colonists.  They  preferred 
rather  to  apply  to  me  than  to  the  deputy-governor ;  and  I  sue 
ceeded  at  last  in  obtaining  over  them  the  influence  I  desired. 
One  portion  of  my  time,  and  this  was  not  the  least  busy,  was 
occupied  in  driving  the  banditti  from  my  residence  and  its 
vicinity.  Sometimes  I  set  off  for  this  purpose  before  daybreak 
and  did  not  return  until  night ;  and  then  I  always  found  my 
wife  good,  affectionate,  and  devoted  to  me :  her  reception  re 
paid  me  for  the  labours  of  the  day.  Oh,  felicity  almost  perfect! 
I  have  never  forgotten  you !  Happy  period !  which  has  left 
indelible  traces  in  my  memory,  you  are  always  present  to  my 


88  TWENTY   YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

thoughts !  I  have  grown  old,  but  my  heart  has  ever  continued 
young  in  recollecting  you. 

In  our  long  chit-chat  of  an  evening  we  recounted  to  each 
other  the  labours  of  the  day,  and  everything  that  occurred  to 
us.  This  was  the  season  of  sweet  mutual  confidence.  Hours 
too  soon  vanished,  alas  !  Fugitive  moments,  you  will  never 
return!  It  was  also  the  time  when  I  gave  audience;  real 
bed  of  justice,  imitated  from  St.  Louis,  and  thrown  open  to 
my  subjects.  The  door  of  my  mansion  admitted  all  the 
Indians  who  had  anything  to  communicate  to  me.  Seated 
with  my  wife  at  a  great  round  table,  I  listened,  as  I  took  my 
tea,  to  all  the  requests  that  were  made  to  me,  all  the  claims 
that  were  laid  before  me.  It  was  during  these  audiences  that 
I  issued  my  sentences.  My  guards  brought  the  culprits  before 
me,  and,  without  departing  from  my  ordinary  calmness,  I  ad 
monished  them  for  the  faults  they  had  committed;  but  I 
always  recollected  the  error  I  had  committed  in  my  sentence 
against  poor  Bazilio,  and  I  was,  therefore,  very  circumspect 
I  first  listened  to  the  witnesses  ;  but  I  never  condemned  until 
I  heard  the  culprit  say  : 

"  What  would  you  have,  sir  ?  It  was  my  destiny.  I 
could  not  prevent  myself  from  doing  what  I  did." 

"Every  fault  merits  chastisement,"  I  would  reply;  "but 
choose  between  the  deputy-governor  and  me — by  which  do  you 
wish  to  be  chastised?" 

The  reply  was  always  the  same. 

"  Kill  me,  if  you  will,  master;  but  do  not  give  me  up  to  my 
own  countrymen." 

I  awarded  the  punishment,  and  it  was  inflicted  by  my 
guards.  When  this  was  over,  I  presented  the  Indian  with  a 
cigar,  as  a  token  of  pardon.  I  uttered  a  few  kind  words  to  him 


MY    HALL    OF   JUSTICE.  89 

to  induce  him  not  to  commit  any.  fresh  faults,  and  he  went 
away  without  bearing  any  malice  to  his  judge.  I  had,  perhaps, 
been  severe,  but  I  had  been  just;  that  was  enough.  The 
order  and  discipline  I  had  established  were  a  great  support  for 
me  in  the  minds  of  the  Indians  ;  they  gave  me  a  positive 
influence  over  them.  My  calmness,  my  firmness,  and  my 
justice — those  three  great  qualities  without  which  no  govern 
ment  is  possible— easily  satisfied  these  natures,  still  untrained 
and  unsophiscated.  But  one  thing,  however,  disquieted  them. 
Was  I  brave  ?  This  is  what  they  were  ignorant  of,  and  fre 
quently  asked  of  one  another.  They  spurned  the  idea  of  being 
commanded  by  a  man  who  might  not  be  intrepid  in  the  face  of 
danger.  I  had  indeed  made  several  expeditions  against  ban 
ditti,  but  they  had  produced  no  result,  and  would  not  serve  as 
proofs  of  my  bravery  in  the  eyes  of  the  Indians.  I  very  well 
knew  that  they  would  form  their  definite  opinion  upon  me 
from  my  conduct  in  the  first  perilous  extremity  we  should 
encounter  together.  I  was  therefore  determined  to  undertake 
anything,  that  I  might  show  myself  at  least  equal  to  the  best 
and  bravest  of  all  my  Indians:  everything  was  comprised  in 
that.  I  felt  the  imperious  necessity  of  showing  myself  not 
only  equal  but  superior  in  the  struggle,  by  preserving  my  self- 
possession. 

An  opportunity  at  length  offered. 

The  Indians  look  upon  buffalo  hunting  as  the  most  dan 
gerous  of  all  their  wild  sports,  and  my  guards  often  said  they 
would  rather  stand  naked  at  twenty  paces  from  the  muzzle  of 
a  carbine  than  at  the  same  distance  from  a  wild  buffalo.  The 
difference  they  said  is  this,  that  the  ball  of  a  carbine  may  only 
wound,  but  the  horn  of  a  buffalo  is  sure  to  kill.  I  took  advan 
tage  of  the  terror  they  had  of  this  animal,  and  one  day  declared, 


90  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

with  the  utmost  possible  coolness,  my  intention  to  hunt  one. 
They  then  made  use  of  all  their  eloquence  to  turn  me  from  my 
project ;  they  gave  me  a  very  picturesque,  but  a  very  discou 
raging  description  of  the  dangers  and  difficulties  I  should  have 
to  encounter,  especially  as  I  was  not  accustomed  to  that  sort 
of  warfare, — and  such  a  combat  is,  in  fact,  a  struggle  for  life  or 
death.  But  I  would  listen  to  nothing.  I  had  spoken  the 
word  :  I  would  not  discuss  the  point,  and  I  looked  upon  all 
their  counsels  as  null  and  void.  My  decision  was  right ;  for 
these  kind  counsels,  these  frightful  pictures  of  the  dangers  I 
was  about  to  incur,  had  no  other  object  than  to  entrap  me  ;  they 
had  concerted  amongst  themselves  to  judge  of  my  courage  by 
my  acceptance  or  refusal  of  the  combat.  My  only  answer  was 
to  give  orders  for  the  hunt.  I  took  great  care  that  my  wife 
should  riot  be  informed  of  our  excursion,  and  I  set  off,  accom 
panied  by  half  a  score  Indians,  nearly  all  of  whom  were  armed 
with  muskets.  Buffalo  hunting  is  different  in  the  mountains 
from  what  it  is  in  the  plains.  On  the  plain  one  only  requires  a 
good  horse,  with  address  and  agility  in  throwing  the  lasso; 
but  in  the  mountains  it  requires  something  more  :  and,  above 
all,  the  most  extraordinary  coolness  and  self-possession  are 
essentially  necessary. 

This  is  the  way  in  which  it  is  done  :  the  hunter  takes  a 
gun  on  which  he  can  depend,  and  places  himself  in  such  a 
position  that  the  buffalo  must  see  him  on  issuing  from  the 
wood.  The  moment  the  animal  sees  him,  he  rushes  on  him 
with  the  utmost  velocity,  breaking,  rending,  and  trampling 
under  foot  every  obstacle  to  the  fury  of  his  charge  ;  he  rushes 
on  as  if  about  to  crush  the  enemy,  then  stops  within  some 
paces  for  a  few  seconds,  and  presents  his  sharp  and  threatening 
horns.  This  is  the  moment  that  the  hunter  should  fire,  and 


BUFFALO    HUNTING    EXPEDITION.  91 

lodge  his  ball  in  the  forehead  of  the  foe.  If  unfortunately 
his  gun  misses  fire,  or  if  his  coolness  fails  him,  if  his  hand 
trembles,  or  his  aim  is  bad,  he  is  lost — Providence  alone 
can  save  him !  This  was,  perhaps,  the  fate  that  awaited 
me;  but  I  was  resolved  to  tempt  this  cruel  proof,  and  I  went 
forward  with  intrepidity — perhaps  to  death.  We  at  length 
arrived  on  the  skirts  of  an  extensive  wood,  in  which  we  felt 
assured  there  were  buffaloes,  and  here  we  halted.  I  was  sure 
of  my  gun,  and  I  conceived  I  was  equally  so  of  my  self- 
possession  ;  I  therefore  determined  that  the  hunt  should  be 
conducted  as  if  I  had  been  a  simple  Indian.  I  placed  myself 
at  the  spot  where  it  was  fully  expected  that  the  animal  would 
come  out,  and  I  forbade  anyone  to  remain  near  me.  I  ordered 
everyone  to  his  proper  place,  and  I  then  stood  alone  on  the 
open  ground,  about  two  hundred  paces  from  the  borders  of  the 
forest,  to  await  an  enemy  that  would  show  me  no  mercy  if  I 
missed  him.  It  is,  I  confess,  a  solemn  moment,  when  one 
stands  between  life  and  death  by  the  more  or  less  certainty  of 
a  gun,  or  the  greater  or  less  steadiness  of  the  arm  that  holds 
it.  I  was,  however,  perfectly  tranquil.  When  all  were  at  their 
posts  two  hunters  entered  the  forest,  having  first  thrown  off 
some  of  their  clothing,  the  more  readily  to  climb  up  trees  in 
case  of  danger :  they  had  no  other  arms  than  a  cutlass,  and 
were  accompanied  by  the  dogs.  A  dead  silence  continued  for 
upwards  of  half-an-hour ;  everyone  listening  for  the  slightest 
noise,  but  nothing  was  heard.  The  buffalo  continues  a  long 
time  frequently  without  betraying  his  lair;  but  at  the  end  of 
the  half-hour  we  heard  the  repeated  barking  of  the  dogs,  and 
the  shouts  of  the  hunters  :  the  animal  was  aroused  from  his 
cover.  He  defended  himself  for  some  time  against  the  dogs, 
till  at  length,  becoming  furious,  he  sprang  forward  with  a  bound 


92  TWENTY    YEAKS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

towards  the  skirts  of  the  forest.  In  a  few  minutes  after,  I 
heard  the  crashing  of  the  branches  and  the  young  trees  thai 
the  buffalo  rent  asunder  in  the  terrible  velocity  of  his  course. 
His  advance  could  only  be  compared  to  the  galloping  of  several 
Worses — to  the  rushing  noise  of  some  frightful  monster — or,  I 
might  almost  say,  of  some  furious  and  diabolical  being. 
Down  he  came  like  an  avalanche;  and  at  this  moment,  I 
confess,  I  experienced  such  lively  emotions  that  my  heart  beat 
with  extraordinary  rapidity.  Was  it  not  death — aye,  and  fright 
ful  death — that  was  perhaps  approaching  me  ?  Suddenly  the 
buffalo  made  his  appearance.  He  stopped  for  an  instant; 
gazed,  as  if  frightened,  around  him  ;  sniffed  up  the  air  of  the 
plain  which  extended  in  the  distance ;  then,  with  distended 
nostrils,  head  bent,  and  horns  projected,  he  rushed  towards  me, 
terrible  and  furious.  The  moment  was  come.  If  I  had  longed 
for  an  opportunity  of  showing  off  my  courage  and  sang-froid  to 
the  Indians,  these  two  precious  qualities  were  now  put  to  a 
severe  test.  There  I  was,  face  to  face  with  the  peril  I  had 
courted ;  the  dilemma  was  one  of  the  most  decided  and  una 
voidable  that  could  possibly  be  :  conqueror  or  conquered,  there 
must  be  a  victim — the  buffalo  or  me,  and  we  were  both  equally 
disposed  to  defend  ourselves. 

It  would  be  difficult  for  me  to  state  exactly  what  was  pass 
ing  in  my  mind,  during  the  brief  period  which  the  buffalo 
took  in  clearing  the  distance  that  lay  between  us.  My  heart, 
so  vividly  agitated  while  the  ferocious  animal  was  rushing 
through  the  forest,  now  beat  no  longer.  My  eyes  were  fixed 
upon  him,  my  gaze  was  rivetted  on  his  forehead  in  such  a 
manner  that  I  could  see  nothing  else.  My  mind  was  concen 
trated  on  one  object  alone,  in  which  I  was  so  absorbed,  that 
I  could  actually  hear  nothing,  though  the  dogs  were  still  bark- 


DANGEROUS   TRIAL   OK    MY    COURAGE. 


93 


ing  at  a  short  distance,  as  they  followed  their  prey.  At  length, 
the  buffalo  lowered  his  head,  presented  his  sharp*pointed  horns, 
stopped  for  a  moment,  then,  with  a  sudden  plunge,  he  rushed 
upon  me,  and  I  fired.  My  ball  pierced  his  skull,  and  I  was 
half  saved.  The  animal  fell  within  a  pace  of  me,  like  a  mass 
of  rock,  so  loud,  and  so  heavy.  I  planted  my  foot  between  his 
two  horns,  and  was  preparing  to  fire  my  second  barrel,  when  a 
long  and  hollow  bellowing  indicated  that  my  victory  was  com 
plete — the  monster  had  breathed  his  last  sigh.  My  Indians 
then  came  up.  Their  joy  was  succeeded  by  admiration  ;  they 
were  in  ecstacy ;  1  was  everything  they  could  wish  for.  All 
their  doubts  had  vanished  with  the  smoke  of  my  rifle,  when, 
with  steady  aim,  I  had  shot  the  buffalo.  I  was  brave ;  I  had 
won  their  confidence ;  I  had  stood  the  test.  My  victim  was 
cut  up  in  pieces,  and  borne  in  triumph  to  the  village  As  the 


94  TWENTY   YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

victor,  I  took  his  horns ;  they  were  six  feet  long.  I  have  since  de 
posited  them  in  the  museum  of  Nantes.  The  Indians,  those 
imaginative  beings,  called  me  thenceforward,  "  Malamit  Oulon," 
Tagal  words,  which  signify  "  cool  head." 

I  must  confess,  without  vanity,  that  the  proof  to  which  my 
Indians  had  subjected  me  was  sufficiently  serious  to  give  them 
a  decided  opinion  of  my  courage,  and  to  satisfy  them  that  a 
Frenchman  was  as  brave  as  themselves.  The  habit  I  subse 
quently  acquired  of  hunting  convinced  me  that  but  little 
danger  is  really  incurred  when  the  weapon  is  a  good  one,  and 
the  self-possession  does  not  fail.  Once  every  month  I  in 
dulged  in  this  exercise,  which  imparts  such  lively  sensations ; 
and  I  recognised  the  facility  with  which  one  may  lodge  a  ball 
in  a  plain  surface,  a  few  inches  in  diameter,  and  at  a  few  paces 
distance.  But  it  is  no  less  true  that  our  first  huntings  were 
very  dangerous.  Once  only  I  permitted  a  Spaniard  named 
Ocampo  to  accompany  us.  I  had  taken  the  precaution  to 
station  two  Indians  at  his  side ;  but  when  I  quitted  them  to 
vu?e  up  my  own  post,  he  imprudently  sent  them  away,  and 
soon  after,  the  buffalo  started  from  the  wood,  and  rushed  upon 
him..  He  fired  both  his  barrels,  and  missed  the  animal ;  we 
heard  the  reports  and  ran  towards  him,  but  it  was  too  late ! 
Ocampo  was  no  longer  in  existence.  The  buffalo  had  gored 
him  through  and  through,  and  his  body  was  ploughed  up  with 
frightful  wounds.  But  no  such  accident  ever  took  place  again  ; 
for  when  strangers  came  to  witness  our  buffalo  hunts,  I  made 
them  get  up  in  a  tree,  or  on  the  crest  of  a  mountain,  where 
they  might  remain  as  spectators  of  the  combat,  without  taking 
any  part  in  it,  or  being  exposed  to  any  danger. 

And  now  that  I  have  described  buffalo  hunting  in  the 
mountains,  I  must  return  to  my  coionising  labours. 


3o-aw  at  Jala  Jala. 


CHAPTER    V. 

Description  of  my  House  at  Jala-Jala — Storms,  Gales,  and  Earthquakes — Reform 
ing  the  Banditti  —  Card-playing  —  Tagal  Cock-fighting  —  Skirmishes  with 
Robbers  —  Courage  of  my  Wife  —  Our  Domestic  Happiness  —  Visits  from 
Europeans — Their  Astonishment  at  our  Civilisation — Visit  to  a  Sick  Friend  at 
Manilla — Tour  through  the  Provinces  of  the  Ilocos  and  Pangasinan  Indians — 
My  Reception  by  the  Tinguians — Their  Appearance  and  Habits — Manners  and 
Customs — Indian  Fete  at  Laganguilan  y  Madalag — Horrible  Ceremonies  to 
Celebrate  a  Victory — Songs  and  Dances — Our  Night-watch — We  Explore  our 
Cabin — Discovery  of  a  Secret  Well — Tomb  of  the  Tinguian  Indians. 

A  S  I  have  previously  said,  my  house  possessed  every  comfort 
•*"*•  that  could  possibly  be  desired.  It  was  built  of  hewn  stone, 
so  that  in  case  of  an  attack  it  could  serve  as  a  small  fortress. 
The  front  overlooked  the  lake,  which  bathed  with  its  clear  and 
limpid  waters  the  verdant  shore  within  a  hundred  steps  from 
my  dwelling ;  the  back  part  looked  upon  woods  and  hills,  where 


yo  TWENTY   YEARS    IN    TUE    PHILIPPINES. 

the  vegetation  was  rich  and  plentiful.  From  our  window 
we  could  gaze  upon  those  grand  majestic  scenes  which  a 
beautiful  tropical  sky  so  frequently  affords.  At  times,  on  a 
dark  night,  the  summits  of  the  hills  suddenly  shone  with  a 
weak  faint  light,  which  increased  by  degrees ;  then  the  bright 
moon  gradually  appeared,  and  illuminated  the  tops  of  the 
mountains,  as  large  beacon-fires  would  have  done  ;  then  again, 
calm,  peaceful,  and  serene,  she  reflected  her  soft  poetic  light 
over  the  bosom  of  the  lake,  as  tranquil  and  unruffled  as  herself. 
It  was  indeed  an  imposing  sight.  Towards  evening,  Nature  at 
times  showed  herself  in  all  her  commanding  splendour,  infusing 
a  secret  terror  into  the  very  soul.  Everything  bore  evidence  oi 
the  sacred  influence  of  the  Divine  Creator.  At  a  short  distance 
from  our  house  we  could  perceive  a  mountain,  the  base  of  which 
was  in  the  lake  and  the  summit  in  the  clouds.  This  moun 
tain  served  as  a  lightning  conductor  to  Jala-Jala  :  it  attracted 
the  thunder.  Frequently  heavy  black  clouds,  charged  with 
electricity,  gathered  over  this  elevated  point,  looking  like 
other  mountains  trying  to  overturn  it ;  then  a  storm  began, 
the  thunder  roared  tremendously,  the  rain  fell  in  torrents ; 
every  minute  frightful  claps  were  heard,  and  the  total  dark 
ness  was  scarcely  broken  by  the  lightning  that  flashed  in  long 
streams  of  fire,  dashing  from  the  top  and  sides  of  the  mountain 
enormous  blocks  of  rock,  that  were  hurled  into  the  lake  with  a 
fearful  crash.  It  was  an  admirable  exemplification  of  the  power 
of  the  Almighty  !  Soon  the  calm  was  restored,  the  rain  ceased, 
the  clouds  disappeared,  the  fragrant  air  bore  on  its  yet  damp 
wings  the  perfume  of  the  flowers  and  aromatic  plants,  and  Nature 
resumed  her  ordinary  stillness.  Hereafter  I  shall  have  occasion 
to  speak  of  other  events  that  happened  at  certain  periods,  and 
were  still  more  alarming,  for  they  lasted  twelve  hours. 


STORMS   AND    EARTHQUAKES.  97 

These  wer-5  gales  of  wind,  called  in  the  Chinese  seas  Tay-Foung. 
At  several  periods  of  the  year,  particularly  at  the  moment  of 
the  change  of  the  monsqon,*  we  beheld  still  more  terrifying 
phenomena  than  our  storms — I  allude  to  the  earthquakes. 
These  fearful  convulsions  of  nature  present  a  very  different 
aspect  in  the  country  from  what  they  do  in  cities.  If  in 
towns  the  earth  begins  to  quake,  everywhere  we  hear  a  terrible 
noise ;  the  edifices  give  way,  and  are  ready  to  fall  down ;  the 
inhabitants  rush  out  of  their  houses,  run  along  the  streets, 
which  they  encumber,  and  try  to  escape.  The  screams  of 
frightened  children  and  women  bathed  in  tears  are  blended 
with  those  of  the  distracted  men ;  all  are  on  their  knees,  with 
clasped  hands,  their  looks  raised  to  Heaven,  imploring  its  mercy 
with  sobbing  voices.  Everything  totters,  is  agitated :  all  dread 
death,  and  terror  becomes  general.  In  the  country  it  is  totally 
different,  and  a  hundred  times  more  imposing  and  terrific.  For 
instance,  in  Jala- Jala,  at  the  approach  of  one  of  these  phenomena, 
a  profound,  even  mournful  stillness  pervades  nature.  The  wind 
no  longer  blows ;  not  a  breeze  nor  even  a  gentle  zephyr  is  per 
ceptible.  The  sun,  though  cloudless,  darkens,  and  spreads  around 
a  sepulchral  light.  The  atmosphere  is  burdened  with  heavy 
and  sultry  vapours.  The  earth  is  in  labour.  The  frightened 
animals  quietly  seek  shelter  from  the  catastrophe  they  foresee. 
The  ground  shakes ;  soon  it  trembles  under  their  feet.  The  trees 
move,  the  mountains  quake  upon  their  foundations,  and  their 
summits  appear  ready  to  tumble  down.  The  waters  of  the 
lake  quit  their  bed,  and  inundate  the  country.  Still  louder 
roaring  than  that  produced  by  the  thunder  is  heard  :  the  earth 

*  During  six  months  the  winds  blow  continually  from  the  north-cast, 
and  during  the  other  six  months  from  the  north-west :  these  two  periods 
are  termed  north-east  monsoon  and  north-west  monsoon. 


98 


TWENTY    YEAES    IN   THE    PHILIPPINES. 


quivers;  everywhere  its  motion  is  simultaneously  felt.  But 
after  this  the  convulsion  ceases,  everything  revives.  The 
mountains  are  again  firm  upon  their  foundations,  and  become 
motionless;  the  waters  of  the  lake  return  by  degrees  to 
their  proper  reservoir ;  the  heavens  are  purified  and  resume 
their  brilliant  light,  and  the  soft  breeze  fans  the  air;  the 


Herd  of   Wild  Buffaloes. 


wild  buffaloes  again  scour  the  plain,  and  other  animals  'quit 
the  dens  in  which  they  had  concealed  themselves ;  the  earth 
has  resumed  her  stillness,  and  nature  recovered  her  accus 
tomed  imposing  calm. 

I  have  not  sought  to  enter  upon  those  minute  descriptions, 
too  tedious  generally  for  the  reader;  I  only  wished  to  give  an 


REFORMING   THE    BANDITTI.  09 

idea  of  the  various  panoramas  that  were  unfolded  to  our  eyes 
whilst  at  Jala-Jala. 

I  now  return  to  the  details  of  my  ordinary  life. 

As  I  had  killed  a  wild  buffalo  when  hunting,  I  had  given 
sufficient  proofs  of  my  skill,  and  my  Indians  were  devoted  to 
me,  because  they  had  confidence  in  me.  Nothing  more  now 
pre-occupied  me,  and  I  spent  my  time  in  superintending  some 
necessary  alterations.  Shortly  the  woods  and  forests  adjoining 
my  domain  were  cut  down,  and  replaced  by  extensive  fields  OA 
indigo  and  rice.  I  stocked  the  hills  with  horned  cattle,  and  a 
fine  troop  of  horses  with  delicate  limbs  and  haughty  mien ; 
I  also  succeeded  in  dispersing  the  banditti  from  Jala-Jala. 
I  must  say  a  great  many  of  them  abandoned  their  wandering 
sinful  lives ;  I  received  them  on  my  land,  and  made  good  hus 
bandmen  of  them .  How  was  it  that  I  had  collected  such  a 
number  of  recruits  ?  In  a  strange  manner,  I  will  admit,  and 
worthy  of  relating,  as  it  will  show  how  an  Indian  allows  him 
self  to  be  influenced  and  guided,  when  he  has  confidence  in  a 
man  whom  he  looks  upon  as  his  superior.  I  frequently 
walked  in  the  forests  alone,  with  my  gun  under  my  arm. 
Suddenly  a  bandit  would  spring  out,  as  if  by  enchantment, 
from  behind  a  tree,  armed  from  top  to  toe,  and  advance 
towards  me. 

"  Master,"  said  he  to  me,  putting  one  knee  to  the 
ground,  "  I  will  be  an  honest  man;  take  me  under  your 
protection !" 

I  asked  him  his  name ;  if  he  had  been  marked  out  by  the 
high  court  of  justice,  I  would  answer  him  severely: 

"  Withdraw,  and  never  present  yourself  again  before  me ; 
I  cannot  forgive  you,  and  if  I  meet  you  again,  I  must  do  my 
duty." 


100  TWENTY   YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

If  he  was  unknown  to  me,  1  would  kindly  say  to  him . 

"  Follow  me." 

I  would  take  him.  home,  and  then  tell  him  to  lay  down  hia 
arms ;  and  after  having  preached  to  him,  and  exhorted  him  to 
persist  in  his  resolution,  I  would  point  out  to  him  the  spot  in 
the  village  where  he  might  build  his  cabin,  and,  in  order  to 
encourage  him,  I  would  advance  him  some  money  to  support 
himself  until  he  became  transformed  from  a  bandit  into  an 
agriculturist.  I  congratulated  myself  each  day  on  having 
left  an  open  door  to  repentance,  since  by  my  cares  I  restored  to 
an  honest  and  laborious  life,  people  who  had  gone  astray  and 
been  perverted.  I  endeavoured  also  to  persuade  the  Indians 
to  abandon  their  vicious  wild  customs,  without  being  too  severe 
towards  them ;  to  obtain  much  from  them  I  knew  it  was  neces 
sary  to  give  way  a  little.  The  Indians  are  passionately  fond 
of  cards  and  cock-fighting,  as  I  have  said  before ;  therefore,  in 
order  not  to  debar  them  entirely  from  these  pleasures,  I  al 
lowed  them  to  play  at  cards  three  times  a  year — the  day  of  the 
village  festival,  upon  my  wife's  birthday,  and  upon  my  own. 
Woe  to  the  one  who  was  caught  playing  out  of  the  times  pre 
scribed  above ;  he  was  severely  punished.  As  to  the  cock 
fights,  I  allowed  them  on  Sundays  and  holidays,  after  Divine 
service.  For  this  purpose  I  had  public  arenas  built.  In  these 
arenas,  in  presence  of  two  judges,  whose  decrees  were  without 
appeal,  the  spectators  laid  heavy  wagers.  There  is  nothing 
more  curious  than  to  witness  a  cock-fight.  The  two  proud 
animals,  purposely  chosen  and  trained  for  the  day  of  the  con 
test,  come  upon  the  battle-field  armed  with  long,  sharp,  steel 
spurs  They  bear  themselves  erect ;  their  deportment  is  bold 
and  warlike ;  they  raise  their  heads,  and  beat  their  sides  with 
heir  wings,  the  feathers  of  which  spread  in  the  form  of  the 


TAGAL    COCK-FIGHTING. 
• 

proud  peacock's  fan.  They  pace  the  arena  haughtily,  raising 
their  armed  legs  cautiously,  and  darting  angry  looks  at  each 
other,  like  two  old  warriors  in  armour  ready  to  fight  before  the 
eyes  of  an  assembled  court.  Their  impatience  is  violent,  their 
courage  impetuous ;  shortly  the  two  adversaries  fall  upon  and 


Tajal  cock-fighting 


attack  each  other  with  equal  fury ;  the  sharp  weapons  they 
wear  inflict  dreadful  wounds,  but  these  intrepid  combatants 
appear  not  to  feel  the  cruel  effects.  Blood  flows ;  the  cham 
pions  only  appear  the  more  animated.  The  one  that  is  getting 
weak  raises  his  courage  at  the  idea  of  victory;  if  he  draw 
back,  it  is  only  to  recruit  his  strength,  to  rush  with  more 


102  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

ardour  than  ever  upon  the  enemy  he  wishes  to  subdue.  At 
length  when  their  fate  is  decided,  when  one  of  the  heroes,  co 
vered  with  blood  and  wounds,  falls  a  victim,  or  runs  away,  he 
is  declared  vanquished,  and  the  battle  is  ended. 

The  Indians  assist  with  a  sort  of  ferocious  joy  at  this 
amusement.  Their  attention  is  so  captivated  by  it  that  they 
do  not  utter  a  word,  but  follow  with  particular  care  the  most 
minute  details  of  the  conflict.  Almost  all  of  them  train  up  a 
cock,  and  treat  him  for  several  years  with  comical  tenderness, 
when  one  reflects  that  this  animal,  taken  as  much  care  of  as  a 
child,  is  destined  by  its  master  to  perish  the  first  day  it  fights. 
I  also  found  that  it  was  necessary  to  provide  some  amusement 
compatible  with  the  tastes,  manners,  and  habits  of  my  former 
bandits,  who  had  led  for  so  long  a  space  of  time  such  a  wander 
ing  vagabond  life.  For  this  purpose  I  allowed  hunting  on  all 
parts  of  my  estate,  conditionally,  however,  that  I  should  take 
beforehand,  as  tithe,  a  quarter  of  any  stag  or  wild  boar  they 
should  kill.  I  do  not  think  that  ever  a  sportsman — one  of 
those  men  reclaimed  from  the  paths  of  vice  to  those  of  virtue — 
failed  in  this  engagement,  or  endeavoured  to  steal  any  game. 
I  have  often  received  seven  or  eight  haunches  of  venison  in  a 
day,  and  those  who  brought  them  were  delighted  to  be  able  to 
offer  them  to  me. 

The  church  I  had  laid  the  foundation  of  was  progressing 
rapidly  ;  the  population  of  the  township  was  daily  increasing ; 
and  everything  succeeded  according  to  my  wishes.  I  had  still 
occasional  difficulties  with  the  hardened  robbers  who  surrounded 
me  ;  but  I  pursued  them  without  intermission,  for  it  was  to 
my  interest  to  remove  them  from  the  neighbourhood  of  my  resi 
dence.  Frequently  they  annoyed  me  by  the  alarms  that  they 
gave  us.  These  resolute,  determined  men  arrived  in  gangs  to 


MY    ESCAPES    FROM    FIRE-ARMS. 


103 


besiege  our  house.  My  guards  surrounded  me,  and  we  occa 
sionally  fought  skirmishes,  which  always  terminated  in  our 
favour.  Providence  has  unfathomable  secrets.  I  was  never 
struck  by  a  ball  from  a  bandit.  I  bear  the  scars  of  seventeen 
wounds  ;  but  these  wounds  were  made  with  naked  blades.  It 
could  be  said  of  me,  as  in  I  know  not  which  Scotch  ballad :  "  Did 
not  the  Devil's  soldiers  pass  through  the  balls,  instead  of  the 
balls  passing  through  them  "  Yet  I  have  often  been  fired 
at ;  sometimes  the  barrel  of  a  gun  has  been  pointed  at  my 
chest,  and  that  at  a  few  paces  from  me.  My  clothes  have  been 
torn  by  the  bullet,  but  my  body  has  always  escaped  harm. 

One  morning  I  was  cautioned  to  put  myself  on  my  guard, 
because  some  banditti  had  met  together  at  a  few  leagues  from 


104  TWENTY    YEAES    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

my  house,  and  intended  attacking  it.  Hearing  ibis,  I  armed 
my  people,  and  set  out  to  meet  the  band  that  was  coming  to 
assail  me,  so  as  to  anticipate  their  attack.  At  the  place  that 
had  been  indicated  to  me  I  found  nobody,  and  passed  the  day 
in  exploring  the  neighbourhood,  in  hopes  of  meeting  the 
bandits,  but  my  search  was  useless.  Suddenly  the  thought 
struck  me  that  a  secret  enemy  had  imposed  upon  me,  and  that, 
at  the  moment  I  was  going  to  face  imaginary  clanger,  perhaps 
my  house  I  had  left  would  be  suddenly  attacked.  I  trembled 
—I  shivered  all  over.  I  gallopped  off,  and  reached  home  in 
the  middle  of  the  night.  My  fears  were  but  too  well-founded. 
I  had  fallen  into  a  snare.  I  found  my  servants  armed, 
watching,  with  my  wife  at  their  head.  "  What  are  you  doing 
here  ?  "  I  exclaimed,  going  up  to  her.  "  I  am  keeping  watch," 
she  replied,  with  great  presence  of  mind ;  "I  was  told  that 
the  advice  given  to  you  was  false  ;  that  you  would  not  find  the 
robbers  where  you  expected,  and  that,  during  your  absence, 
they  would  come  here."  This  act  of  heroism  proved  to  me 
what  courage  and  energy  God  had  given  to  a  woman  appa 
rently  so  delicate.  The  banditti  did  not  attack  us  :  was  there 
not  some  guardian  angel  watching  over  my  dwelling? 

We  were  more  than  a  year  at  Jala-Jala  without  seeing  a 
European.  One  would  have  thought  that  we  had  withdrawn 
ourselves  entirely  from  the  civilised  w?orld,  and  that  we  were 
going  to  live  for  ever  with  the  Indians.  Our  mountains  had 
so  bad  a  reputation,  that  nobody  dared  expose  themselves  to 
the  thousand  dangers  they  feared  to  encounter  in  the  locality. 
We  were  therefore  alone,  yet  still  very  happy.  It  was,  perhaps, 
the  most  pleasant  time  I  spent  in  my  life.  I  was  living  with  a 
beloved  and  loving  wife  ;  the  good  work  I  had  undertaken  was 
performed  under  my  eyes ;  the  comfort  and  happiness,  the 


VISIT   TO    A    SICK    FRIEND.  105 

natural  results  of  such  good  work,  spread  themselves  among 
my  vassals,  who  daily  became  more  and  more  devoted  to  me. 
How  could  I  have  regretted  quitting  the  pleasures  and  enter 
tainments  of  a  town,  where  those  diversions  and  pleasures  are 
bought  by  lies,  hypocrisy,  and  deceit — those  three  vices  01 
civilised  society?  However,  the  terror  spread  around  by  the 
banditti  was  not  great  enough  to  keep  away  the  Europeans 
entirely  ;  and  one  morning  some  people,*  mad  enough  to  dare 
to  visit  a  mad  man — such  was  the  name  given  to  meat  Manilla, 
when  I  left  to  go  and  live  in  the  country — came  to  see  me, 
armed  to  their  very  teeth.  The  surprise  of  these  venturesome 
visitors  is  impossible  to  be  described,  when  they  found  us  at 
Jala-Jala,  calm,  and  in  perfect  safety.  Their  astonishment 
increased  when  they  went  entirely  through  our  colony;  and  on 
their  return  to  town  they  gave  such  an  account  of  our  retreat, 
and  of  the  entertainments  they  found  there,  that  shortly  after 
we  received  more  visits,  and  I  had  not  only  to  give  hospitality 
to  friends,  but  likewise  to  strangers.  If,  now  and  then,  our 
affairs  compelled  us  to  go  to  Manilla,  we  very  soon  came  back 
to  our  mountains  and  forests,  for  there  only  Anna  and  myself 
were  happy.  Very  great  reasons  alone  could  induce  us  to  leave 
our  pleasant  abode ;  however,  a  slight  event  occurred  that  obliged 
us  to  quit  it  for  a  short  time.  I  was  informed  that  one  of  my 
friends,  who  had  acted  as  witness  to  my  marriage,  was  seriously 
ill.f  What  the  greatest  pleasure,  the  most  heartfelt  joy,  the 
most  splendid  banquet,  could  not  obtain  from  me,  friendship 
exacted.  At  this  sad  intelligence  T  determined  at  once  upon 
going  to  Manilla,  to  give  my  advice  to  the  sick  man,  whose 
family  had  solicited  my  aid ;  and  as  my  absence  might  be 

*  At  their  head  was  Don  Jose  Fucntes,  my  constant  friend. 
f  Don  Simon  Fernandez,  Oidor  at  the  Court  Royal. 


106 


TWENTY    VEAIcS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 


prolonged,  1  packed  up  my  things,  and  \ve  left,  our  hearts 
sadder  than  ever  at  having  to  quit  Jala-Jala  on  so  melancholy 
an  errand.  Upon  my  arrival  there,  I  was  told  that  my  friend 
had  been  taken  from  Manilla  to  Boulacan,  a  province  to  the 
north  of  that  town,  where  it  was  hoped  the  country  air  would 
hasten  his  recovery.  I  left  Anna  at  her  sister's,  and  went  off  to 
join  Don  Simon,  whom  I  found  convalescent;  my  presence  was 
almost  useless,  and  the  journey  I  had  made  resulted  in  shaking 
affectionately  my  former  comrade  by  the  hand,  whom  I  would 
not  leave  until  convinced  that  he  was  entirely  recovered. 

In  order  to  utilise  my  time,  I  decided  upon  making  a  tour  to 
the  north  into  the  provinces  of  Ilocos  and  Pangasinan.     I  had 


MY   JOURNEY    TO    THE    TINGUIANS.  10 1 

my  reasons  for  so  doing :  I  wished,  if  possible,  to  make  an  ex 
cursion  to  the  Tinguians  and  Igorrots,  wild  populations,  who  were 
much  talked  of,  but  little  known.  I  wished  to  study  them  myself. 
I  took  the  precaution  not  to  confide  this  idea  to  anybody,  for 
then,  indeed,  people  would  not  have  known  what  name  to  give 
my  folly.  I  made  my  preparations,  and  set  out  with  my  faithful 
lieutenant,  Alila,  who  never  left  me,  and  who  was  justly  styled 
Mabouti-Tao.  We  were  mounted  upon  good  horses,  that  carried 
us  along  like  gazelles  to  Vigan,  the  chief  town  of  the  province 
of  South  Ilocos,  where  we  left  the  animals.  From  there  we 
took  a  guide,  who  conducted  us  on  foot  to  the  east,  close  to  a 
small  river  called  Abra  (opening).  This  river  is  the  only  issue 
by  which  we  could  penetrate  to  the  Tinguians.  It  winds 
around  high  mountains  of  basalt ;  its  sides  are  steep ;  its  bed  is 
encumbered  with  immense  blocks  of  rock,  fallen  from  the 
sides  of  the  mountains,  which  render  it  impossible  to  walk 
along  its  banks.  To  reach  the  Tinguians,  it  is  necessary  to 
have  recourse  to  a  slight  skiff,  that  can  easily  pass  through  the 
current  and  the  most  shallow  parts.  My  guide  and  my  lieu 
tenant  soon  contrived  to  make  a  small  raft  of  bamboos  ;  when  it 
was  finished  we  embarked,  Alila  and  myself,  our  guide  refusing 
to  accompany  us.  After  much  trouble  and  fatigue,  casting  our 
selves  often  into  the  water  to  draw  our  raft  along,  we  at  length 
got  clear  of  the  first  range  of  mountains,  and  perceived,  in  a 
small  plain,  the  first  Tinguian  village.  When  we  reached 
there  we  got  out,  and  went  towards  the  huts  we  had  distin 
guished  in  the  distance.  I  allow  it  was  acting  rather  foolishly 
to  go  and  thus  expose  ourselves,  in  the  midst  of  a  colony  of 
ferocious  and  cruel  men  whose  language  we  did  not  know  ;  but 
I  relied  upon  my  usual  good  fortune.  I  will  add  that  I  had 
taken  divers  objects  with  me  to  give  as  presents,  trusting  to 


108  TWENTY   YEARS   IN    THE    PHILIPPINES 

meet  some  inhabitant  speaking  the  Tagaloc  language.  1 
walked  on,  then,  without  troubling  myself  about  what  would 
become  of  us.  In  a  few  minutes  we  reached  the  nearest  cabins, 
and  the  inhabitants  gave  us  at  first  an  unwelcome  reception. 
Frightened  at  seeing  us  approach,  they  advanced  towards  us, 
armed  with  hatchets  and  spears  ;  we  waited  for  them  without 
recoiling  in  the  least.  I  spoke  to  them  by  signs,  and  showed 
them  some  necklaces  of  glass  beads,  to  make  them  understand 
we  were  friendly  disposed.  They  deliberated  among  them 
selves,  and  when  they  had  held  their  consultation,  they 
beckoned  us  to  follow  them.  We  obeyed.  They  led  us  to 
their  chief,  who  was  an  old  man.  My  generosity  was  greater 
towards  him  than  it  had  been  to  his  subjects.  He  appeared  so 
delighted  with  my  presents,  that  he  immediately  put  us  at  our 
ease,  by  making  us  understand  that  we  had  nothing  to  fear, 
and  that  he  took  us  under  his  special  protection. 

This  pleasing  reception  encouraged  us. 

I  then  set  about  examining  with  attention  the  men, 
women,  and  children  who  surrounded  us,  and  who  seemed  as 
much  astonished  as  ourselves.  My  amazement  was  very  great 
when  I  beheld  tall  men,  slightly  bronzed,  with  straight  hair, 
regular  features,  aquiline  noses,  and  really  handsome,  elegant 
women.  Was  I  really  among  savages  ?  I  should  rather  have 
thought  I  was  among  the  inhabitants  of  the  south  of  France, 
had  it  not  been  for  the  costume  and  language.  The  only 
clothing  the  men  wore  was  a  sash,  and  a  sort  of  a  turban,  made 
out  of  the  bark  of  the  fig  tree.  They  were  armed,  as  they 
always  are,  with  a  long  spear,  a  small  hatchet,  and  a  shield. 
The  women  also  wore  a  sash,  and  a  small  narrow  apron  that 
came  down  to  their  knees.  Their  heads  were  ornamented  with 
pearls,  coral  beads,  and  pieces  of  gold,  twisted  among  their 


TINGUIAN    MANNERS   AND    CUSTOMS.  109 

hair ;  the  upper  parts  of  their  hands  were  painted  blue  ;  their 
wrists  adorned  with  interwoven  bracelets,  spangled  with  glass 
beads — these  bracelets  reached  the  elbow,  and  formed  a  kind 
of  half-plaited  sleeve.  On  this  subject  I  learnt  a  remarkable 
fact.  These  interwoven  bracelets  squeeze  the  arm  very  much  ; 
they  are  put  on  when  the  women  are  quite  young,  and  they 
prevent  the  development  of  the  flesh  to  the  advantage  of  the 
wrist  and  hand,  which  swell  and  become  dreadfully  big ;  this 
is  a  mark  of  beauty  with  the  Tinguians,  as  a  small  foot  is 
with  the  Chinese,  and  a  small  waist  with  the  European  ladies. 
I  was  quite  astonished  to  find  myself  in  the  midst  of  this 
population,  where  there  was  no  reason  whatsoever  to  be  alarmed. 
One  thing  only  annoyed  me  ;  it  was  the  odour  that  these  people 
spread  around  them,  which  could  be  smelt  even  at  a  distance 
However,  the  men  and  women  are  cleanly,  for  they  are  in  the 
habit  of  bathing  twice  daily.  I  attributed  the  disagreeable 
smell  to  their  sash  and  turban,  which  they  never  leave  off,  but 
allow  to  fall  into  rags.  I  remarked  that  the  reception  given 
me  by  the  chief  gained  us  the  good-will  of  all  the  inhabitants, 
and  I  accepted,  without  hesitation,  the  hospitality  proffered  us. 
This  was  the  only  means  of  studying  well  the  manners  and 
customs  of  my  new  hosts. 

The  territory  occupied  by  the  Tinguians  is  situated  about 
17  degrees  north  latitude,  and  27  degrees  west  longitude;  it 
is  divided  into  seventeen  villages.  Each  family  possesses  two 
habitations,  one  for  the  day  and  the  other  for  the  night.  The 
abode  for  the  day  is  a  small  cabin,  made  of  bamboos  and  straw, 
in  the  same  style  as  most  Indian  huts  ;  the  one  for  the  night 
is  smaller,  and  perched  upon  great  posts,  or  on  the  top  of  a  tree, 
about  sixty  or  eighty  feet  above  the  ground.  This  height 
surprised  me,  but  I  understood  this  precaution  when  I  knew 


110  TWENTY   YEAHS    IN    THE    WITLIPPINES. 

that  thus,  under  shelter  at  night,  the  Tinguians  are  saved 
from  the  nocturnal  attacks  of  the  Guinanes,  their  mortal 
enemies,  and  defend  themselves  with  the  stones  which  they 
throw  from  the  tops  of  the  trees.*  In  the  middle  of  each 
village  there  is  a  large  shed,  in  which  are  held  the  assemblies, 
festivities,  and  public  ceremonies.  I  had  been  already  two 
days  in  the  village  of  Palan  (this  was  the  name  of  the  place 
where  I  stopped  at),  when  the  chiefs  received  a  message  from 
the  small  town  of  Laganguilan  y  Madalag,  that  lies  far  off  to 
the  east.  By  this  message  the  chiefs  were  informed  that  the 
inhabitants  of  tUis  district  had  fought  a  battle,  and  that  they 
had  been  victorious. 

The  inhabitants  of  Palan  hearing  this  news  screamed  with 
joy  ;  it  was  quite  a  tumult  when  they  heard  that  a  fete  would 
be  given  in  commemoration  of  the  success  at  Laganguilan  y 
Madalag.  All  wished  to  be  present — men,  women,  children ; 
all  desired  to  go  to  it.  But  the  chiefs  chose  a  certain  number 
of  warriors,  some  women,  and  a  great  many  young  girls  :  they 
made  their  preparations  and  set  out.  It  was  too  favourable  an 
opportunity  for  me  not  to  avail  myself  of  it,  and  I  earnestly 
begged  my  hosts  to  allow  me  to  accompany  them.  They  con 
sented,  and  the  same  night  we  set  out  on  our  journey,  being  in 
all  thirty  in  number.  The  men  wore  their  arms,  which  are 
composed  of  a  hatchet,  that  they  call  aligua,  a  sharp-pointed 
spear  of  bamboo,  and  a  shield  ;  the  women  were  muffled  up  in 
their  finest  ornaments.  I  remarked  that  these  garments  were 
cotton  materials,  of  showy  colours.  We  walked  one  behind 
another,  according  to  the  custom  of  the  savages.  We  went 

*  The  most  bitter  enemies  of  the  Tinguians  are  a  race  of  cruel,  blood 
thirsty  savages,  who  inhabit  the  interior  of  the  mountains.  They  have  also 
to  fear  the  Tgorrots,  who  live  nearer,  but  who  are  less  savage. 


AN    INDIAN    FETE — HORRIBLE    CEREMONIES.  Ill 

through  many  villages,  the  inhabitants  of  which  were  also  going 
to  the  fete ;  we  crossed  over-mountains,  forests,  torrents,  and  at 
last,  at  break  of  day,  we  reached  Laganguilan  y  Madalag.  This 
small  town  was  the  scene  of  much  rejoicing.  On  all  sides 
the  sound  of  the  gong  and  tom-tom  were  heard.  The  first 
of  these  instruments  is  of  a  Chinese  shape ;  the  second  is  in 
the  form  of  a  sharp  cone,  covered  over  at  the  bottom  with  a 
deer's  skin. 

Towards  eleven  o'clock,  tho  chiefs  of  the  town,  followed 
by  all  the  population,  directed  their  steps  towards  the  large 
shed.  There  everyone  took  his  place  on  the  ground,  each 
party,  headed  by  its  chiefs,  occupying  a  place  marked  out  for  it 
beforehand.  In  the  middle  of  a  circle  formed  by  the  chiefs  of  the 
warriors  were  large  vessels,  full  of  basi,  a  beverage  made  with 
the  fermented  juice  of  the  sugar-cane ;  and  four  hideous  heads 
of  Guinans  entirely  disfigured — these  were  the  trophies  of  the 
victory.  When  all  the  assistants  had  taken  their  places,  a 
champion  of  Laganguilan  y  Madalag  took  one  of  the  heads 
and  presented  it  to  the  chiefs  of  the  town,  who  showed  it  to 
all  the  assistants,  making  a  long  speech  comprehending  many 
praises  for  the  conquerors.  This  discourse  being  over,  the 
warrior  took  up  the  head,  divided  it  with  strokes  of  his 
hatchet,  and  took  out  the  brains.  During  this  operation, 
so  unpleasant  to  witness,  another  champion  got  a  second 
head,  and  handed  it  to  the  chiefs,  the  same  speech  was 
delivered,  then  he  broke  the  skull  to  pieces  in  like  manner, 
and  took  out  the  brains.  The  same  was  done  with  the  four 
bleeding  skulls  of  the  subdued  enemies.  When  the  brains 
were  taken  out,  the  young  girls  pounded  them  with  their  hands 
into  the  vases  containing  the  liquor  of  the  fermented  sugar 
cane  ;  thev  stirred  the  mixture  round,  and  then  the  vases  were 


1  12  TWENTY   YEARS   IS    THE    PHILIPPINES, 

taken  to  the  chiefs,  who  dipped  in  their  small  osier  goblets, 
through  the  fissures  of  which  the  liquid  part  ran  out,  and  the 
solid  part  that  remained  at  the  bottom  they  drank  with  ecstatic 
sensuality  I  felt  quite  sick  at  this  scene,  so  entirely  new  to 
me.  After  the  chieftains'  turn  came  the  turn  of  the  cham 
pions.  The  vases  were  presented  to  them,  and  each  one 
sipped  with  delight  this  frightful  drink,  to  the  noise  of 
wild  songs.  There  was  really  something  infernal  in  this 
sacrifice  to  victory. 

We  sat  in  a  circle  and  these  vases  were  carried  round.  I 
well  understood  that  wre  were  about  undergoing  a  disgusting 
test.  Alas !  I  had  not  long  to  wait  for  it.  The  warriors 
planted  themselves  before  me,  and  presented  me  with  the  basi 
and  the  frightful  cup.  All  eyes  were  fixed  upon  me.  The 
invitation  was  so  direct,  to  refuse  it  would  perhaps  be  exposing 
myself  to  death !  It  is  impossible  to  describe  the  interior  con 
flict  that  passed  within  me.  I  would  rather  have  preferred 
the  carbine  of  a  bandit  five  paces  from  my  chest ;  or  await, 
as  I  had  already  done,  the  impetuous  attack  of  the  wild 
buffalo.  What  a  perplexity !  I  shall  never  forget  that  awful 
moment.  It  struck  me  with  terror  and  disgust ;  however,  I 
contained  myself,  nothing  betraying  my  emotion.  I  imitated 
the  savages,  and,  dipping  the  osier  goblet  into  the  drink,  I 
approached  it  to  my  lips,  and  passed  it  to  the  unfortunate  Alila, 
who  could  not  avoid  this  infernal  beverage.  The  sacrifice  was 
complete  ;  the  libations  were  over,  but  not  the  songs.  The 
basi  is  a  very  spirituous  and  inebriating  liquor,  and  the  assist 
ants,  who  had  partaken  rather  too  freely  of  this  horrible  drink, 
sang  louder  to  the  noise  of  the  tom-tom  and  the  gong,  while 
the  champions  divided  the  human  skulls  into  small  pieces 
destined  to  be  sent  as  presents  to  all  their  friends.  The 


SONGS  AND  DANCES OUR  NIGHT  WATCH.        1J3 

distribution  was  made  during  the  sitting,  after  which,  the  chiefs 
declared  the  ceremony  over.  They  then  danced.  The  savages 
divided  themselves  into  two  lines,  and  howling,  as  if  they  were 
furious  madmen  or  terribly  provoked,  they  jumped  about,  lay 
ing  their  right  hand  upon  the  shoulder  of  their  partners,  and 
changing  places  with  them.  These  dances  continued  all  day ; 
at  last  night  came  on,  each  inhabitant  retired  with  his  family 
and  some  few  guests  to  his  aerial  abode,  and  soon  afterwards 
tranquillity  was  restored. 

We  cannot  help  feeling  astonished,  when  we  are  in  Europe — 
in  a  good  bed,  under  a  warm  eider-down  coverlet,  the  head  lux 
uriously  reclining  upon  good  pillows — when  we  reflect  on  the 
singular  homes  of  the  savages  in  the  woods.  How  often  have 
I  represented  to  myself  these  families — roosting  eighty  feet 
above  ground,  upon  the  tops  of  trees.  However,  I  know  that 
they  sleep  as  quietly  in  those  retreats,  open  to  every  wind,  as 
I  in  my  well-closed  and  quiet  room.  Are  they  not  like  the 
birds  who  repose  at  their  sides  upon  the  branches  ?  Have  they 
not  Nature  for  a  mother,  that  admirable  guardian  of  all  she 
has  made,  and  do  they  not  also  close  their  eyelids  under  the 
tutelary  looks  of  the  Supreme  Father  of  the  universe  ? 

My  faithful  Alila  retired  with  me  into  one  of  the  low- 
storied  cabins  to  pass  the  night,  as  we  had  been  in  the  habit  of 
doing  while  staying  with  the  Tinguians.  For  our  better  security 
we  were  accustomed  to  watch  one  another  alternately;  \ve 
never  both  slept  at  the  same  time.  Without  being  timid, 
ought  we  not  to  be  prudent  ?  This  night  it  was  my  turn  to 
go  to  sleep  the  first.  I  went  to  bed,  but  the  impressions  01 
the  day  had  been  too  strong :  1  felt  no  inclination  to  sleep. 
1  tnerefore  offered  to  relieve  my  lieutenant  of  his  watcn;  thw 
poor  fellow  was  like  myself — the  heads  of  the  Guinans  kept 


114  TWENTY   YEARS    IN   THE    PHILIPPINES. 

dancing  before  his  eyes.  He  beheld  them  pale,  bloody,  hideous; 
then  torn,  pounded,  broken  to  pieces;  then  the  shocking 
beverage  of  the  brains,  that  he  also  so  courageously  swallowed, 
came  back  to  his  mind,  and  he  suffered  sufficiently  to  make 
him  repent  our  visit.  "Master,"  said  he  to  me,  looking  very 
much  grieved,  "why  did  we  come  among  these  devils?  Ah! 
it  would  have  been  much  better  had  we  remained  in  our  good 
country  of  Jala-Jala."  He  was  not  perhaps  in  the  wrong, 
but  my  desire  to  see  extraordinary  things  gave  me  a  courage 
and  a  will  he  did  not  partake  of.  I  answered  him  thus : 
"  Man  must  know7  all,  and  see  all  it  is  possible  to  see.  As  we 
cannot  sleep,  and  that  we  are  masters  here,  let  us  make  a  night 
visit ;  perhaps  we  shall  find  things  that  are  unknown  to  us. 
Light  the  fire  and  follow  me,  Alila."  The  poor  lieutenant  obeyed 
without  answering  a  word.  He  rubbed  two  pieces  of  bamboo  one 
against  the  other,  and  I  heard  him  muttering  between  his  teeth : 
"  What  cursed  idea  has  the  master  now?  What  shall  we 
see  in  this  miserable  cabin — with  the  exception  of  the  Tic- 
balan,*  or  Assuan?^  We  shall  find  nothing  else."  During  the 
Indian's  reflections  the  fire  burnt  up.  I  lit,  without  saying  a 
word,  a  cotton  wick,  plastered  over  with  elemi  gum,  that  I 
always  carried  with  me  in  my  travels,  and  I  began  exploring. 
I  went  all  through  the  inside  of  the  habitation  without  finding 
anything,  not  even  the  Tic-balan,  or  Assuan,  as  my  lieutenant 
imagined.  I  was  beginning  to  think  my  search  fruitless,  when 
the  idea  struck  me  to  go  down  to  the  ground-floor  of  the  cabin, 
for  all  the  cabins  are  raised  about  eight  or  ten  feet  above 
ground,  and  the  under  part  of  the  floor,  closed  with  bamboos 
ft  used,  as  a  store :  I  descended.  Anyone  who  co'.ihl  hftvf 

*  Evil  Spirit.  -f-  A  malicious  divinity  of  the  Tagalocs. 


DISCOVERY    OF   A   SECRET   WELL.  115 

seen  me — a  white  man,  a  European,  the  child  of  another  hemi 
sphere — wander  by  night,  with  a  taper  in  my  hand,  ahout  the 
hut  of  a  Tinguiau  Indian,  would  have  heen  really  surprised  at 
my  audacity,  and  I  may  almost  say,  my  obstinacy,  in  seeking  out 
danger  while  pursuing  the  wonderful  and  unknown.  But  I  went 
on,  without  reflecting  on  the  strangeness  of  my  conduct :  as  the 
Indians  say :  "I  was  following  my  destiny."  When  I  had 
reached  the  ground,  I  perceived  in  the  middle  of  a  square, 
inclosed  with  bamboos,  a  sort  of  trap,  and  I  stopped  quite 
pleased.  Alila  looked  at  me  with  astonishment.  I  lifted  up 
the  trap,  and  saw  a  rather  deep  well ;  I  looked  into  it  with  my 
light,  but  could  not  discover  the  bottom  of  it.  Upon  the  sides 
only,  at  a  depth  of  about  six  or  seven  yards,  I  thought  I  dis 
tinguished  some  openings  that  I  took  for  entrances  into  sub 
terraneous  galleries.  What  had  I  now  discovered?  Was  I, 
like  Gil  Bias,  about  to  penetrate  into  the  midst  of  an  as 
semblage  of  banditti,  living  in  the  internal  parts  of  the 
earth ;  or  should  I  find,  as  in  the  tales  of  the  "Arabian  Nights," 
some  beautiful  young  girls,  prisoners  of  some  wicked  magi 
cian  ?  Indeed,  my  curiosity  increased  in  proportion  to  my  dis 
coveries.  "  There  is  something  strange  here,"  said  I  to  my 
lieutenant;  "light  a  second  match,  I  will  go  down  to  the 
bottom  of  the  well."  Hearing  this  order,  my  faithful  Alila 
shrunk  back  in  dismay,  and  ventured  to  say  to  me,  in  a  fright 
fully  dismal  tone : 

"  Why,  master,  you  are  not  content  to  see  what  is  upon  the 
earth,  you  must  also  see  what  is  inside  of  it!" 

This  simple  observation  made  me  smile.  He  continued  : 
44  You  wish  to  leave  me  alone  here  ;  and  if  the  souls  of  the 
Guinans  whose  brains  I  have  just  drank  come  to  fetch  me,  what 
will  become  of  me  ?  You  will  not  be  here  to  defend  me ! 

My  lieutenant  would  not  have  been  frightened  at  twenty 


I  16  TWENTY    YEAES    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

banditti,  he  would  have  struggled  against  every  one  of  them 
until  death ;  but  his  legs  trembled,  his  voice  faltered,  he  was 
terrified  at  the  idea  of  remaining  alone  in  this  cabin,  exposed 
to  the  view  of  the  spirit  of  a  Guinan,  which  would  come  and 
ask  him  to  restore  his  brains  !  Whilst  he  addressed  me  these 
complaints,  I  had  leant  my  back  against  one  side  of  the  well, 
my  knees  were  applied  against  the  other,  and  down  I  went. 
I  had  already  descended  about  four  yards,  when  I  felt  some 
rubbish  falling  upon  me.  I  raised  my  head,  and  saw  Alila 
coming  down  too.  The  poor  fellow  would  not  remain  alone. 
"  Well  done,"  said  I  to  him,  "  you  are  becoming  curious  too ; 
you  will  be  rewarded,  believe  me,  for  we  shall  see  fine  sights." 
And  I  continued  my  under-ground  research.  After  proceeding 
six  or  seven  yards  I  reached  the  opening  I  had  remarked  from 
above,  and  stopped.  I  placed  my  light  before  me,  and  espied 
a  corner,  where  sat  the  dried  black  corpse  of  a  Tinguian  in 
the  same  state  as  a  mummy.  I  said  nothing  ;  I  waited  for 
my  lieutenant,  anxious  as  I  was  to  enjoy  his  surprise.  When 
he  was  aside  of  me:  "Look,  look,"  I  exclaimed;  "what  is 
that?"  He  was  stupified.  "Master,"  said  he  at  last,  "I 
entreat  of  you  to  leave  this  place  ;  let  us  get  out  of  this  cursed 
hole  !  Take  me  to  fight  against  the  Tinguians  of  the  village — 
I  am  quite  willing  to  do  that — but  do  not  remain  among  the 
dead !  What  should  we  do  with  our  arms,  if  they  suddenly 
appeared  to  ask  us  why  we  are  here  ?  "  "Be  quiet,"  I  answered 
him  ;  "  we  shall  go  no  farther."  I  felt  satisfied  that  this  well 
was  a  tomb,  and  that  'lower  down  I  should  see  some  more 
Tinguians  in  a  state  of  preservation.  I  respected  the  abode 
of  the  dead,  and  came  up,  to  Alila's  great  satisfaction.  We 
~>ut  everything  in  its  place,  and  returned  to  the  upper  story  of 
•he  cabin.  I  soon  fell  asleep,  but  my  lieutenant  could  not :  the 
houghts  of  the  mummy  and  horrible  beverage  kept  him  awake. 


Guman  India"'. 


CHAPTEK    VI. 

Visit  to  Manabo — Conversation  with  my  Guide — Religion  of  the  Tingui.ins--- 
Tbeir  Marriage  Ceremony — Funereal  Rites — Mode  of  Warfare^-I  take  leave 
of  the  Tinguians — Journey  to  the  Igorrots — Description  of  them — Their 
Dwellings — A  Fortunate  Escape — Alila,  and  the  Bandits — Recollections  of 
Home — A  Majestic  Fig-tree — Superstition  of  Alila — Interview  with  an  Igorrot 
— The  Human  Hand — Nocturnal  Adventure — Consternation  of  Allla — Pro 
bable  Origin  of  the  Tinguians  and  Igorrots. 

E  following  morning,  before  dawn,  our  hosts  began  to 
descend  from  their  high  regions,  and  we  left  our  temporary 
abode,  to  make  preparations  for  our  departure.  I  had  resided 
long  onongh  at  Laganguilnn  y  Madalag.  I  was  desirous  of 


118  TWENTY   YlfiAES    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

visiting  Manabo,  a  large  village,  situated  at  a  short  distance 
from  Lagan guilan.     I  availed  myself  of  the  presence  of  the 
inhal  >ants  of  Manabo,  who  had  come  to  assist  at  the  Brain 
Feas^ — this  was  the  appellation  I  had  given  to  this  savage 
fete — and  I  set  out  with  them.     Among  the  troop  there  was 
one  who  had  spent  some  time  among   the  Tagalocs  ;  he  spoke 
their  language  a  little,  and  I  knew  it  tolerably  well.    I  profited 
by  this  fortunate  occurrence,  and  during  the  whole  of  the  way 
I  conversed  with  this  savage,  and  questioned  him  upon  the 
habits,  customs,  and  manners  of  his  fellow-countrymen.     One 
point  particularly  pre-occupied  me.     I  was  unacquainted  with 
the  religion  of  these  people,  so  very  curious  to  study.     Until 
then  I  had  seen  no  temple ;  nothing  that  bore  resemblance  to 
an  idol;  I  knew  not  what  God  they  worshipped.     My  guide, 
chatty  for  an  Indian,  gave  me  quickly  every  information  neces 
sary.     He  told  me  that  the  Tinguians  have  no  veneration  for 
the  stars  ;    they  neither  adore  the  sun,  nor  mocn,  nor   the 
constellations  ;    they  believe  in  tne  existence  of  a  soul,  and 
pretend  that  after  death  it  quits  the  body,  and  remains  in  the 
family.     As  to  the  god  that  they  adore,  it  varies  and  changes 
form  according  to  chance  and  circumstances.      And  here  is 
the    reason :     When   a   Tinguian   chief   has   found    in   the 
country  a  rock,  or  a  trunk  of  a  tree,  of  a  strange  shape — I 
mean  to  say,  representing  tolerably  well  either  a  dog,  cow,  or 
buffalo — he  informs  the  inhabitants  of  the  village  of  his  dis 
covery,  and  the  rock,  or  trunk  of  a  tree,  is  immediately  con 
sidered  as  a  divinity — that  is  to  say,  as  something  superior  to 
man.    Then  all  the  Indians  repair  to  the  appointed  spot,  carry 
ing  with  them  provisions  and  live   hogs.      When  they  have 
reached  their  destination  they  raise  a  straw  roof  above  the  new 
idol,  to  cover  it,  and  make  a  sacrifice  by  roasting  hogs  ;  then,  at 


TJNGU1AN    MARRIAGE    CEREMONY.  119 

the  sound  of  instruments,  they  eat,  drink,  and  dance  until  they 
have  no  provisions  left.  When  all  is  eaten  and  drank,  they 
set  fire  to  the  thatched  roof,  and  the  idol  is  forgotten  until 
the  chief,  having  discovered  another  one,  commands  a  new 
ceremony. 

With  regard  to  the  morals  of  the  Tinguians,  my  guide  in 
formed  me  that  the  Tinguian  has  generally  one  legitimate 
wife,  and  many  mistresses;  but  the  legitimate  wife  alone  in- 
nabits  the  conjugal  house,  and  the  mistresses  have  each  of  them 
a  separate  cabin.  The  marriage  is  a  contract  between  the  two 
families  of  the  married  couple.  The  day  of  the  ceremony, 
the  man  and  wife  bring  their  dowry  in  goods  and  chattels ;  the 
marriage  portion  is  composed  of  china  vases,  glass,  coral 
beads,  and  sometimes  a  little  gold  powder.  It  is  of  no  profit 
to  the  married  couple,  for  they  distribute  it  to  their  relations. 
This  custom,  my  guide  observed  to  me,  has  been  established 
to  prevent  a  divorce,  which  could  only  take  place  in  entirely 
restituting  all  the  objects  that  were  contributed  at  the  mar 
riage  by  the  party  asking  for  divorce — a  rather  skilful  expe 
dient  for  savages,  and  worthy  of  being  the  invention  of  civi 
lised  people.  The  relatives  thus  become  much  interested  in 
preventing  the  separation,  as  they  would  be  obliged  to  resti 
tute  the  presents  received ;  and,  if  one  of  the  couple  persisted 
in  requesting  it,  they  would  prevent  him  or  her  by  making 
away  with  one  of  the  objects  furnished,  such  as  a  coral  neck 
lace,  or  a  china  vase.  Without  this  wise  measure,  it  is  to  be 
supposed  that  a  husband,  with  mistresses,  would  very  often 
endeavour  to  obtain  a  divorce.  My  fellow-traveller  enlightened 
me  upon  all  the  points  that  I  wished  to  investigate.  The 
government,  said  he  to  me,  after  resting  himself  for  a  few 
minutes,  is  very  patriarchal.  It  is  the  oldest  man  who  com 


120  TWENTY   TEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES 

mauds. — As  at  Lacedsemonia,  thought  I,  for  there  old  age 
was  honoured. — The  laws  are  perpetuated  by  tradition,  as  the 
Tinguians  have  no  idea  of  writing.  In  some  instances  they 
Bpply  the  punishment  of  death.  When  the  fatal  sentence  has 
been  pronounced,  the  Tinguian  who  has  merited  it  must 
escape,  if  he  wishes  to  avoid  it,  and  go  and  live  in  the  forests  ; 
for,  the  old  men  having  spoken,  all  the  inhabitants  are  bound 
to  perform  their  orders.  Society  is  divided  into  two  classes, 
as  with  the  Tagalocs,  the  chiefs  and  the  commonalty.  Who 
ever  possesses  and  can  exhibit  to  the  public  a  certain  number 
of  china  vases  is  considered  a  chief.  These  jars  constitute  all 
the  wealth  of  the  Tinguians.  We  were  still  conversing  about 
the  natives  of  the  country  when  we  reached  Manabo.  My 
guide  had  scarcely  ceased  talking  all  the  way  from  Laganguilan. 

My  attention  was  now  attracted  by  some  flames  that  were 
issuing  from  under  a  cabin,  where  a  large  fire  was  burning. 
Around  it  many  people  were  sitting,  howling  like  wolves. 

"  Ah  !  ah  !"  said  my  guide,  seemingly  very  pleased  ;  "  here 
is  a  funeral.  I  did  not  tell  you  anything  about  these  ceremo 
nies  ;  but  you  will  judge  for  yourself  of  what  they  are.  It 
will  be  time  enough  to-morrow.  You  must  be  tired.  I  will 
take  you  to  my  day-cabin,  and  you  may  repose  yourself  without 
any  danger  of  the  Guinans,  for  a  funeral  compels  a  great  many 
people  to  be  on  the  watch  all  night." 

I  accepted  the  offer  made  to  me,  and  we  took  possession  of 
the  Tinguian  cabin.  It  was  my  turn  to  take  the  first  watch, 
and  my  poor  Alila,  a  little  more  at  his  ease,  fell  into  a  sound 
sleep.  I  followed  his  example,  after  my  watch,  and  \ve  did 
lot  wake  up  until  it  was  broad  daylight. 

We  had  scarcely  finished  our  morning  repast,  composed  of 
ckmey-potatoes,  palms,  and  dried  venison,  when  my  guide  o* 


FUNEREAL    RITES.  121 

the  preceding  day  came  to  conduct  me  to  the  spot  where  the 
funeral  of  the  deceased  was  about  to  take  place.  I  followed 
him,  and  placing  ourselves  a  few  steps  from  the  cortege,  we 
assisted  at  a  strange  sight.  The  deceased  sat  in  the  middle  of 
his  cabin  upon  a  stool ;  underneath  him,  and  at  his  side,  fires 
were  burning  in  enormous  chafing-dishes ;  at  a  short  distance 
about  thirty  assistants  were  seated  in  a  circle.  Ten  or  twelve 
women  formed  another  circle ;  they  were  seated  nearer  to  the 
corpse,  close  by  which  the  widow  was  also  placed,  and  who 
was  distinguished  by  a  white  veil,  that  covered  her  from  head 
to  foot.  The  women  brought  some  cotton,  with  which  they 
wiped  off  the  moisture  that  the  fire  caused  to  exude  from  the 
corpse,  which  was  roasting  by  degrees.  From  time  to  time 
one  of  the  Tinguians  spoke,  and  pronounced,  in  a  slow,  har 
monious  tone  of  voice,  a  speech,  which  he  concluded  by  a  sort  of 
laugh,  that  was  imitated  by  all  the  assistants ;  after  which 
they  stood  up,  eat  some  pieces  of  dried  meat,  and  drank  some 
basi;  they  then  repeated  the  last  words  of  the  orator,  and 
danced. 

I  endured — such  is  the  word — this  sight  for  an  hour;  but 
I  did  not  feel  courage  enough  to  remain  in  the  cabin  any 
longer.  The  odour  that  exhaled  from  the  corpse  was  unbear 
able.  I  went  out,  and  breathed  the  fresh  air ;  my  guide  fol 
lowed  me,  and  I  begged  him  to  tell  me  what  had  occurred 
from  the  beginning  of  the  illness  of  the  deceased. 

"  Willingly,"  he  answered  me. 

Delighted  to  breathe  freely,  I  listened  with  interest  to  the 
following  recital : 

"When  Dalayapo,"  said  the  narrator,  "fell  sick,  they  took 
him  to  the  grand  square,  to  apply  severe  remedies  to  him  ,  that 
is  to  say,  all  the  men  of  the  village  came  in  arms,  and,  to  the 


122  TWENTY   Y.EAKS   IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

sound  of  the  gong  and  the  tom-tom,  they  danced  around 
the  sick  man  from  the  rising  to  the  setting  of  the  sun.  But 
this  grand  remedy  had  no  effect — his  illness  was  incurable. 
At  the  setting  of  the  sun  they  placed  our  friend  in  his  house, 
and  no  more  heed  was  paid  to  him  :  his  death  was  certain, 
as  he  would  not  dance  with  his  fellow-countrymen." 

I  smiled  at  the  remedy  and  the  reasoning,  but  I  did  not 
interrupt  the  narrator. 

"  For  two  days  Dalayapo  was  in  a  state  of  suffering  ;  then, 
at  the  end  of  those  two  days,  he  breathed  no  more ;  and,  when 
that  was  perceived,  they  immediately  put  him  on  the  bench 
where  we  saw  him  just  now.  Then  the  provisions  that  he  pos 
sessed  were  gathered  together  to  feed  the  assistants,  who  paid 
him  all  due  honours.  Each  one  made  a  speech  in  his  praise  : 
his  nearest  relations  began  the  first,  and  his  body  was  sur 
rounded  with  fire  to  dry  it  up.  When  the  provisions  are 
consumed,  the  strangers  will  leave  the  cabin,  and  only  the 
widow  and  a  few  relations  will  wait  until  the  body  is  thoroughly 
dried.  In  a  fortnight's  time  he  will  be  placed  in  a  large  hole 
that  is  dug  under  his  house.  He  will  be  put  in  a  niche,  or 
aperture,  in  the  wall,  where  already  his  deceased  relatives' 
remains  are  deposited,  and  then  all  is  over." 

This  hole,  thought  I,  must  be  similar  to  the  one  I  went 
into  the  other  night  at  Laganguilan. 

The  explanation  that  I  had  just  received  completely  satis 
fied  me,  and  I  did  not  request  to  be  present  again  at  the 
ceremony.  I  resolved,  since  I  was  very  comfortably  seated, 
under  the  shade  of  a  balete,  upon  availing  myself  of  the  obliging 
disposition  of  ray  guide,  to  ask  him  to  inform  me,  suddenly 
changing  the  conversation  all  the  while,  how  his  tribe  managed 
to  wage  war  on  the  Guinans,  their  mortal  enemies. 


MODE  OF  WARFARE, 


123 


Weapons  of  the  Ting'Uian  Indians. 

"The  Guinans,"  said  he  to  me,  without  drawing  in  any 
way  on  my  patience,  "  wear  the  same  arms  as  we  do.  They 
are  neither  stronger,  nor  more  skilful,  nor  more  vigorous. 
We  have  two  modes  of  fighting  them.  Sometimes  we  give 
them  a  grand  battle  at  mid-day,  and  then  we  meet  them  face 
to  face,  under  a  burning  sun ;  at  other  times,  during  some  dark 
night,  we  creep  in  silence  to  their  dwelling-places,  and  if  we  be 
able  to  surprise  any  of  them  we  cut  off  their  heads,  which  we 
take  away  with  us,  and  then  we  get  up  a  feast,  such  as  you 
have  already  witnessed." 

That  word  "  feast  "  recalled  to  my  mind  the  sanguinary 
orgie,  or  carousing,  I  had  been  present  at,  and  particularly  the 
share  I  had  taken  in  it,  so  that  I  felt  I  was  blushing  and 
gr2wing  pale  by  turns.  The  Indian  took  no  heed  of  it,  and 
went  on  thus : 

"  in  the  grand  battles  all  the  men  belonging  to  a  village 
are  compelled  to  take  up  arms,  and  to  march  against  the  fo»- 


124  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

It  is  generally  in  the  midst  of  a  wood  that  tha  two  armies 
meet.  As  soon  as  they  come  in  sight  of  each  other  they 
get  up  crying  and  howling  on  both  sides.  Each  man  then 
rushes  upon  his  enemy,  and  upon  this  shock  depends  the  fate 
of  the  victory;  for  one  of  the  armies  is  always  panic-struck, 
and  scampers  away ;  then  it  is  that  the  other  pursues  it,  and 
kills  as  many  as  possible,  taking  care  to  preserve  the  heads, 
which  they  bring  home  with  them."* 

"  Why  it  is  a  hide-and-seek  fight,  the  consequences  of  which 
are,  however,  very  cruel,"  I  said.  My  Indian  was  of  the  same 
opinion,  and  rejoined : 

"  In  general  the  conquerors  are  ever  those  who  are 
cleverest  in  concealing  themselves,  in  order  to  surprise  their 
enemies,  and  who  then  dash  on  them  bawling  and  howling." 

Here  my  guide  stopped  short,  the  fight  having  no  longer 
any  interest  for  him;  and  then,  perceiving  I  questioned  him  no 
longer,  he  left  me  to  myself,  when  I  returned  to  my  habitation 
and  Alila,  who  was  sick  enough  of  Manabo.  For  my  own 
part  I  had  seen  enough  of  the  Tinguiaus,  and  besides  I  thought 
I  had  observed  that  they  seemed  not  too  well  pleased  with  the 
long  stay  I  had  made  among  them.  I  passed  over  in  my 
mind  the  brain  feast,  so  I  resolved  upon  leaving.  I  therefore 
went  to  take  leave  of  the  elders.  Unfortunately  I  had  nothing 
to  offer  them,  but  I  promised  them  many  presents,  when  I 
should  get  back  among  the  Christians — and  then  I  left  them. 

The  satisfaction  of  my  faithful  lieutenant  was  at  its  height 
when  we  started  for  home.  Not  being  disposed  to  go  back  by 
the  same  way  I  had  come,  I  determined  upon  keeping  more  to 

*  It  is  on  account  of  this  cruel  custom  of  beheading  their  victims  that 
the  Spaniards  have  given  to  these  savages  the  name  of  "corta  cadesaz," 
'  deeajjitators." 


JOUENEY   TO    THE    IGOBI10TS.  125 

the  east,  crossing  over  the  mountains,  and  upon  taking  the  sun 
as  my  guide.     This  road  seemed  preferable  to  me,  inasmuch 
as  I  was  about  to  traverse  a  country  inhabited  by  a  few  Igor- 
rots,  that  other  species  of  the   savage  tribe  I  was  not  ac 
quainted  with.     The  mountains  we  crossed  over  were  crowned 
with  magnificent  forests.     Now  and  then  we  perceived  lovely 
fertile  valleys  below  our  feet,  and  the  grass  was  so  high  and 
thick-set,  that  it  was  with  great  difficulty  we  could  pass  through 
it.     During  our  journey,  my  lieutenant  kept  a  sharp  look-out, 
wishing  to  kill  some  game  for  our  support.    As  for  myself,  I 
was  indeed  far  from  thinking  of  the  pleasure  of  shooting,  so 
great    was    my   contemplation   of   the    admirable   panoramic 
views  that  we  met  with  every  moment";  and  I  was  too  much 
enraptured  with  the  virgin  and  fruitful  soil  that  spread  itself 
so  incommensurately  around  us  to  think  even  of  eating.     But 
my  faithful  Alila  was  less  an  enthusiast  than  I  was  myself : 
however,  in  return,  he  was  more  prudent.     At  the  close  of  the 
day  on  which  we  started  he  killed  a  stag ;  so  we  halted  on  the 
brink  of  a  stream,  cut  off  some  palm-tree  strips,  in  guise  of 
rice  and  bread,  and  set  about  eating  the  roasted  liver  of  the 
animal.     Our  repast  was  truly  a  copious  one.     Ah !  how  often 
since  that  time,  when  seated  before  a  richly  served  table — 
having  before  me  delicious  and  recherche  viands,  and  that  in 
dining-rooms  where  the  atmosphere  was  balmy  and  perfumed 
by  the  aroma  arising  from  the  highly  flavoured  dishes — how 
often,  I  say,  have  I  regretted  the  supper  I  partook  of  with  Alila 
in  the  forest,  after  a  day's  ramble  on  the  mountains !     Nay, 
what  mortal  could  forget  such  hours — such  places  ? 

Our  repast  over,  we  made  our  bed  of  some  branches  we 
lopped  off  from  the  trees,  and  which  we  joined  togethei 
on  the  very  moist  soil  in  the  interior  of  the  vast  forest,  and 


120  TWENTY   YEARS   IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

there  we  slept  soundly  till  the  morrow,  without  fear,  and  par 
ticularly  without  having  any  sombre  or  disagreeable  dreams 
At  the  dawn  of  day  we  were  on  foot  again,  all  Nature  seeming 
to  wake  up  with  ourselves.  Oh !  how  fine  and  calm  did  she 
appear  to  us  !  The  vapours  that  arose  from  her  breast  covered 
her  all  over  with  a  veil,  like  a  young  virgin  at  her  waking ; 
and  then  this  veil  by  degrees  would  break  up  into  pieces, 
which  pieces,  gently  balanced  on  the  morning  breeze,  would 
disappear,  and  be  lost  on  the  tops  of  the  trees  or  the  summits 
of  the  rocks.  On  we  walked  for  a  long  time,  till  at  last, 
towards  the  middle  of  the  day,  we  came  to  a  small  plain 
inhabited  by  the  Igorrots.  We  found,  in  all,  three  cabins,  or 
huts,  so  that  the  population  was  far  from  being  large.  At  the 
door  of  one  of  these  cabins  I  saw  a  man,  of  about  sixty  years 
of  age,  and  a  few  women.  As  we  had  arrived  from  behind  the 
huts  we  took  the  savages  by  surprise,  so  that  they  had  no  time 
to  fly  at  our  approach :  we  were  in  the  midst  of  them. 

I  assumed  the  line  of  conduct  I  had  pursued  on  arriving 
at  Palan,  but  as  I  had  no  more  coral  beads  or  coloured  glass, 
I  presented  them  with  a  part  of  our  stag,  making  them  under 
stand  at  the  same  time  that  we  came  with  the  most  friendly 
intentions.  From  that  moment  there  was  established  between 
us  a  very  curious  sort  of  mimic  conversation,  during  which  I 
was  able  to  examine  at  my  ease  the  new  race  of  beings  I  saw 
around  me.  I  perceived  that  the  costume  of  the  Igorrots 
was  pretty  nearly  the  same  as  that  of  the  Tinguians,  the 
ornaments  excepted,  but  their  features  and  physiognomy  were 
quite  different.  The  men  were  smaller,  their  breasts  being 
exceedingly  broad,  their  heads  immensely  big,  their  limbs 
developed,  their  strength  herculean ;  their  shape  was  not  so 
Viaudsome  as  that  of  the  savages  I  had  just  left ;  their  colour 


THEIR   DWELLINGS.  127 

of  a  dark  bronze,  very  dark  indeed;  their  noses  are  less 
aquiline,  their  eyes  yellow  and  fully  open — a  la  Chinoise.  The 
women's  shape  was  also  very  protuberant,  their  complexion  dark, 
their  hair  long,  and  combed  up — a  la  Chinoise.  Unfortunately 
it  was  impossible  for  me,  with  all  my  mimicry,  to  obtain  the 
information  I  wished  for,  so  I  was  obliged  to  content  myself 
with  visiting  the  cabin,  which  was  a  real  hut,  having  but  the 
ground-floor.  The  surrounding  parts  wrere  closed  in  by  very 
thick  piles,  covered  with  a  roof  in  the  form  of  a  bee-hive. 
There  was  but  one  issue,  through  which  it  was  impossible  to 
have  either  egress  or  ingress,  except  in  crawling  on  all-fours. 
in  spite  of  this  difficulty  I  wrould  see  the  interior  of  this  Indian 
dwelling;  so,  having  made  a  sign  to  my  lieutenant  to  keep 
watch,  I  penetrated  into  the  hut.  The  Igorrots  seemed  quite 
surprised  at  my  so  doing,  but  they  made  no  opposition  to  it. 
I  found  myself  within  an  obnoxious  hole,  or  hovel,  through  a 
small  opening  in  the  summit  of  which  the  daylight  peeped  in 
and  the  smoke  crept  out.  The  floor  was  thickly  covered  with 
clust,  and  it  was  upon  such  a  soft  couch  that  the  whole  family 
laid  down  to  rest.  In  one  of  the  corners  I  perceived  some 
bamboo  lances,  a  few  cocoa-nuts  divided  into  two  parts,  so  as 
to  serve  as  cups,  a  heap  of  good-sized  round  pebbles,  that  were 
used  in  case  of  attack,  and  a  few  pieces  of  wood,  of  very 
common  workmanship,  that  served  as  pillows. 

I  soon  got  out  of  such  a  den,  from  which  I  was  driven  by 
the  nauseous  smell  it  contained  in  its  every  part,  but  I  had 
been  able  to  see  everything  in  it.  I  then  inquired,  by  signs, 
of  the  Igorrot,  the  way  I  should  go,  in  order  to  join  the 
Christians.  He  fully  understood  me,  showed  me  the  road 
with  his  finger,  and  we  then  proceeded  on  our  journey.  As  I 
journeyed  on,  I  remarked  here  and  there  fields  of  patates  and 


128  TWENTY   YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

sugar-cane,  which  of  course  must  have  been  the  only  husbandry 
of  those  miserable  savages.  After  about  an  hour's  journey  wo 
were  near  running  into  a  very  great  danger.  On  entering  into 
a  vast  plain  we  saw  an  Igorrot,  flying  away  as  quickly  as 
possible.  He  had  remarked  us,  and  I  attributed  his  flight  to 
fear,  when  suddenly  I  heard  the  sound  of  the  tom-tom  and 
gong,  and  saw,  at  the  same  time,  twenty  men  armed  with 
lances,  rapidly  advancing  towards  us.  I  felt  that  a  fight  was 
about  to  ensue,  so  I  told  my  lieutenant  to  fire  at  the  group,  so 
as  to  injure  none  of  them. 

Alila  fired :  his  bullet  passed  over  the  heads  of  the  savages, 
who  were  so  astonished  at  the  detonation  that  they  suddenly 
halted,  and  examined  us  attentively.  I  prudently  took  ad 
vantage  of  their  surprise,  and  an  immense  forest  presenting 
itself  on  our  right,  we  entered  it,  leaving  the  village  on  our 
left,  but  the  savages  did  not  follow  us  into  it. 

During  the  whole  of  this  scene  my  lieutenant  did  not 
utter  a  word.  I  had  already  remarked  that  when  in  pre 
sence  of  danger  he  became  dumb,  but  when  he  had  lost  sight 
of  the  Igorrots  his  speech  and  loquacity  returned  to  him. 

"  Master,"  said  he  to  me,  in  a  very  dissatisfied  tone,  "how 
I  do  regret  not  having  fired  directly  into  the  middle  of  those 
miscreants!" 

"  And  why  so  ?"  asked  I. 

"  Because  I  am  certain  I  should  have  killed  one  of  them 
at  least." 

"Well?" 

"  Well,  master,  our  journey  would  not  have  terminated 
without  our  sending  at  least  one  soul  of  a  savage  to  the  devil." 

"Ah!  Alila,"  said  I;  "so  you  have  become  wicked  and 
naughty,  have  you?" 


ALILA   AND    THE    BANDITS.  129 

"  No,  no,  no,  master,"  replied  ho ;  "  but  I  cannot  conceive 
why  you  are  so  kind  and  compassionate  to  that  infernal  race. 
You,  who  pursue  and  persecute  the  Tulisans,*  who  are  a 
hundred  times  better  than  these  wretches  are,  and  who  are 
Christians  besides." 

"  What !"  cried  I ;  "  brigands,  robbers,  and  assassins  better 
than  poor  primitive  beings,  who  have  no  one  to  guide  and 
conduct  them  to  the  path  of  virtue  ! " 

"  Oh,  master-!"  replied  my  lieutenant,  and  most  senten- 
tiously  this  time;  "Oh  !  the  brigands,  as  it  pleases  you  to  call 
them,  are  in  nowise  what  you  think  them.  The  Tulisau  is 
not  an  assassin.  When  he  takes  away  life  it  is  onty  when  he 
is  compelled,  in  defence  of  his  own,  and  if  he  do  lull,  why  it  is 
always  de  bon  cceur." 

"  Oh!  oh!"  said  I;  "  and  the  robberies — how  do  you  ex 
plain  them  ?" 

"  If  he  rob,  why  it  is  only  to  get  possession  of  a  little  of  the 
superfluity  of  the  rich,  and  that  he  divides  among  the  poor — 
that's  all.  Now,  master,  do  you  know  what  use  the  Tulisan 
makes  of  his  plunder  ?" 

'•  No,  indeed,  master  Alila,"  answered  I,  smilingly. 

"  Well,  he  keeps  nothing  of  it  for  himself,"  said  my  lieu 
tenant,  with  great  pride;  "  in  the  first  place  he  gives  a  part, 
of  it  to  the  priest,  to  have  masses  said  for  him." 

"  Indeed  !  it  is  mighty  edifying — go  on." 

*'  And  then  he  gives  another  part  of  it  to  his  mistress,  or 
bonne  amie,  because  he  loves  her,  and  likes  to  see  her  finely 
dressed  out ;  and  as  for  the  remainder,  why,  faith!  he  spends  it 
among  his  friends.  You  may  therefore  see,  master,  that  the 
1'ulisan  possesses  himself  of  the  superfluity  of  one  person  to 

*  Banditti. 

F 


130  TWENTY   YEARS    M   TJTE    PHILIPPINES. 

satisfy  several  other  persons  with  it.*  Oh !  but  he  is  far,  very 
far  indeed,  from  being  so  wicked  as  those  savages,  who  kill 
you  without  saying  a  word  to  you,  and  then  eat  up  your  brains — 
fie!"  And  here  Alila  heaved  a  deep  sigh,  for  the  brain  feast 
was  ever  present  to  his  mind.  His  conversation  so  interested 
me.  his  system  was  so  curious,  and  he  himself  so  frank  in 
drawing  it  out,  that  I  almost  forgot  the  Igorrots  in  listening 
to  him. 

We  pursued  our  road  through  the  wood,  keeping  as  much 
as  possible  to  the  south,  in  order  to  get  near  the  province  of 
Batangas,  where  I  was  to  meet  my  poor  patient,  who  no  doubt 
was  very  uneasy  about  my  long  absence.  When  I  started  1 
said  not  a  word  about  my  project,  and  had  I  done  so  it  i?  most 
likely  I  should  have  been  thought  as  no  longer  belonging  to  thid 
world.  The  recollection  of  my  wife,  whom  I  had  left  at  Manilla, 
and  who  was  far  from  supposing  me  to  be  among  the  Igorrots, 
inspired  me  with  the  most  anxious  desire  of  returning  home  to 
my  family  as  quick  as  possible.  Absorbed  in  my  thoughts, 
and  carried  away  by  my  reflections,  I  walked  silently  along, 
without  even  casting  a  glance  upon  the  luxuriant  vegetation  all 
around  us.  I  must  indeed  have  been  very  much  pre-occupied, 
for  a  virgin  forest  between  the  tropics,  and  particularly  in  the 
Philippine  islands,  is  in  nowise  to  be  compared  with  our 
European  forests.  I  was  aroused  from  my  pensiveness,  and 
recalled  to  the  remembrance  of  my  whereabouts,  by  the  noise  of 
a  torrent,  and  I  gratefully  admired  nature  in  her  gigantic  pro 
ductions.  I  looked  up,  and  before  me  I  perceived  an  immense 
baletc,  an  extraordinary  fig-tree,  that  thrives  in  the  sombre  and 
mysterious  forests  of  the  Philippines,  and  I  stopped  to  admire 

*  "  The  nakedness  of  the  poor  might  be  clothed  out  of  the  trimming 
of  the  vain."— Dr.  Goldsmith's  "Vicar  of  Wakefield."—  Tn. 


A   MAJESTIC    FIG-TREE.  131 

it.  This  immense  tree  springs  from  a  seed  similar  to  the 
seed  of  the  ordinary  fig-tree ;  its  wood  is  white  and  spongy, 
and  in  a  few  years  it  grows  to  an  extraordinary  size.  Nature, 
who  has  had  foresight  in  all  things,  and  who  allows  the  young 
lamb  to  leave  its  wool  on  the  bushes  for  the  timid  bird  to 
pick  it  up  and  build  its  nest  with — Nature,  I  say,  has  shown 
herself  in  all  her  genius  in  the  fig-tree  of  the  Philippine 
islands,  which  grows  so  rapidly  and  so  immensely.  The  branches 
of  this  tree  generally  spring  from  the  base  of  the  trunk ;  they 
extend  themselves  horizontally,  and,  after  forming  an  elbow  or 
curve,  rise  up  perpendicularly ;  but,  as  I  said  before,  the  tree 
is  spongy,  and  easily  broken,  and  the  branch,  while  forming 
the  curve,  would  inevitably  be  broken,  did  not  a  ligament, 
which  the  Indians  call  a  drop  of  water — goutte  d'eau — fall  from 
the  tree  and  take  root  in  the  earth ;  there  it  swells,  and  grows 
in  proportion  with  the  size  of  the  branch,  and  acts  to  it  as  a 
living  prop.  Besides  which,  around  the  trunk,  and  at  a 
Considerable  distance  from  the  ground,  are  natural  supports, 
which  rise  up  in  points  or  spirals  to  about  the  middle  of  the 
trunk.  Has  not  the  Grand  Architect  of  the  world  foreseen 
everything? 

The  appearance  presented  by  the  balete  is  very  frequently 
indescribably  picturesque  ;  and  this  is  so  true  that,  within  a 
space  of  some  hundred  paces  in  diameter — which  these  gigantic 
pg-trees  usually  occupy — one  may  see  by  turns  grottoes,  halls, 
Chambers,  that  are  often  furnished  with  natural  seats,  formed 
out  of  and  by  the  roots  themselves.  No !  no  vegetation  is 
more  diversified,  nor  more  extraordinary !  This  tree  sometimes 
grows  out  of  a  rock,  where  there  is  not  an  inch  of  earth  ;  its 
long  roots  run  along  the  rock,  encompass  it,  and  then  plunge 
into  the  neighbouring  brook.  It  is  indeed  a  masterpiece  of 


132  TWENTY   TEAKS   IN   THE    PHILIPPINES. 

nature — a  chef  d'ceuvre — which,  however,  is  very  ordinary  in 
the  virgin  forests  of  the  Philippine  islands. 

"  Here,"  said  I  to  my  lieutenant,  "  is  a  good  spot  for  us 
to  spend  the  night  on." 

He  recoiled  some  paces. 

"  What !"  said  he  ;  "  do  you  wish  to  stop  here,  master?" 

"  Certainly,"  replied  I. 

"  Oh !  but  you  don't  see  that  we  are  in  still  more  danger 
here  than  in  the  midst  of  the  Igorrots  !'* 

"  And  why,  then,  are  we  in  danger?"  asked  I. 

"Why?  why?  Do  you  not  know  that  the  Tic-balan 
dwells  in  the  large  baletes.  If  we  stop  here  you  may  be  very 
sure  that  I  shan't  sleep  a  moment,  and  that  we  shall  be  tor 
mented  the  whole  night." 

I  smiled,  which  my  lieutenant  perceiving  : 

"Oh!  master,"  said  he,  most  dolefully,  "what  should  we 
do  with  an  evil  spirit  that  fears  neither  bullet  nor  dagger  ?" 

The  terror  of  the  poor  Tagal  was  really  too  great  for  me  to 
resist  him,  so  I  yielded,  and  we  took  up  our  quarters  for  the 
night  at  a  place  much  less  to  my  own  taste,  but  much  more  to 
Alila's.  The  night  passed  away  like  many  others — I  mean, 
perfectly  well,  and  we  woke  up  to  resume  our  journey  through 
the  forest. 

We  had  been  walking  about  two  hours,  when,  on  leaving  the 
wood,  and  entering  on  a  plain,  we  met  an  Igorrot,  mounted 
upon  a  buffalo,  face  to  face.  The  encounter  was  somewhat 
curious.  I  levelled  my  gun  at  the  savage :  jny  lieutenant  took 
hold  of  the  animal  by  the  long  leather  strap,  and  I  made  a 
sign  to  the  Igorrot  not  to  stir:  then— always  in  my  mimic 
language — I  asked  if  he  were  alone.  I  understood  from  him 
that  he  was  accompanied  by  no  fellow-traveller,  and  that  he 


INTERVIEW   WITH   AN    IGORROT.  133 

was  going  northwards,  in  the  opposite  direction  to  our  own 
But  Alila,  who  decidedly  had  a  grudge  against  the  savages, 
was  most  anxious  to  lodge  a  ball  in  this  fellow's  head.  How 
ever,  I  strenuously  opposed  such  a  project,  and  ordered  him  to 
let  go  the  bridle. 

"  But,  master,"  said  he,  "  allow  me  at  least  to  see  what 
these  jars  contain." 

Around  the  neck  of  the  Igorrot's  buffalo  were  strung  three 
or  four  jars,  covered  with  leaves  of  the  banana  tree. 

My  lieutenant,  without  even  waiting  for  my  answer,  applied 
his  nose  to  them,  and  discovered,  to  his  infinite  satisfaction,  that 
they  contained  a  deer  or  stag  ragout,  which  sent  forth  a  certain 
perfume ;  so,  still  without  consulting  me,  he  undid  the  smallest 
of  the  jars,  struck  the  buffalo  a  blow  with  the  but-end  of  his 
gun,  and,  letting  go  the  animal  at  the  same  time,  exclaimed  : 

"  Go,  you  rascal — go  !" 

The  Igorrot,  finding  himself  free,  fled  as  quick  as  the 
beast  could  carry  him,  and  we  re-entered  the  woods,  taking 
care  to  avoid  the  openings,  for  fear  of  being  surprised  by  too 
large  a  number  of  savages. 

Towards  four  o'clock  we  halted  to  take  our  repast.  This 
wished- for  moment  was  impatiently  expected  by  my  lieutenant, 
as  the  savage's  jar  sent  forth  a  veiy  savoury  smell.  At  last 
the  desired  moment  arrived  :  we  sat  down  on  the  grass.  I 
stuck  my  poignard  into  the  jar,  which  Alila  had  brought  up  to 
the  fire,  and  I  withdrew — an  entire  human  hand  !*  My  poor 
lieutenant  was  as  stupified  as  I  was  myself,  so  we  remained  a 
few  minutes  without  saying  a  word.  At  last  I  gave  a  vigorous 

*  The  Igorrots,  however,  according  to  the  reports  of  the  Indians,  arc- 
not  anthropophagi ;  perhaps  the  one  in  question  had  received  these  ragouts 
from  some  other  savages — the  Guinans,  for  instance. 


134  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

kick  to  the  jar,  and  smashed  it  in  pieces,  so  that  the  human 
flesh  it  contained  was  scattered  over  the  ground,  while  still  I 
held  the  fatal  hand  on  the  point  of  my  dagger. 

That  hand  horrified  me  ;  yet  I  examined  it  most  carefully, 
and  it  appeared  to  me  to  have  been  the  hand  of  a  child  of  an 
Ajetas,  a  species  of  savages  that  inhabit  the  mountains  of 
Nueva-Exica  and  Maribeles,  of  which  race  I  shall  have  an 
opportunity  of  speaking  during  the  course  of  this  work.  I 
took  some  strips  of  palm-tree,  roasted  in  the  burning  embers ; 
Alila  did  the  same,  and  we  set  out,  not  in  the  best  of  humours, 
in  search  of  another  resting-place  for  the  night. 

Two  hours  after  sun-rise  we  issued  from  the  forest  and 
entered  upon  the  plain.  From  time  to  time — that  is,  from 
distance  to  distance — we  met  with  rice-fields,  cultivated  after 
the  Tagal  manner,  and  then  did  my  lieutenant  exclaim  most 
joyously  to  me  : 

"  Master,  we  are  now  in  Christian  ground." 

He  was  right;  the  road  was  becoming  more  easy.  We 
followed  on  a  narrow  pathway,  and  towards  evening  arrived  in 
front  of  an  Indian  cabin,  at  the  door  of  which  a  young  girl  was 
sitting,  while  abundant  tears  trickled  down  her  sorrowful 
countenance.  I  drew  near  her,  and  inquired  into  the  cause  o* 
her  grief.  On  hearing  my  question  she  rose  up,  and  without 
replying  to  my  queries,  conducted  us  into  the  interior  of  the 
habitation,  where  we  beheld  the  inanimate  body  of  an  old 
woman,  whom  we  learned  was  the  mother  of  the  young  girl ; 

tjf 

the  brother  of  the  latter  had  gone  to  the  village  in  quest  of  the 
relations  of  the  deceased,  to  aid  them  in  transporting  the 
corpse  to  its  final  destination. 

This  scene  affected  me  very  much.  I  did  my  best  to  con 
sole  the  poor  young  girl,  and  solicited  hospitality  for  the  night, 


NOCTURNAL  ADVENTURE.  135 

which  was  instantly  granted.  To  be  in  company  with  a  dead 
body  nowise  affrighted  me ;  but  I  bethought  of  Alila,  so  super 
stitious  and  so  fearful  with  regard  to  ghosts  and  evil  spirits. 

"  Well,"  said  I  to  him  ;  "  are  you  not  afraid  to  spend  the 
night  near  a  corpse  ?" 

"No,  master,"  replied  he,  courageously;  "this  dead  per 
son  is  a  Christian  soul,  which,  far  from  wishing  us  evil,  will 
watch  over  us." 

I  was  really  astonished  at  the  answer  of  the  Tagaloc,  at 
his  calmness  and  security :  the  rogue  had  his  own  motives 
for  thus  speaking  to  me.  The  Indian  huts  in  the  plains, 
are  never  composed  of  more  than  one  room ;  the  one  we  were 
in  was  scarcely  large  enough  to  hold  us  all  four ;  however,  we 
one  and  all  managed  as  well  as  we  could.  The  deceased  oc 
cupied  the  back  part ;  a  small  lamp,  placed  by  her  head, 
threw  out  a  feeble  light,  and  beside  her  lay  the  young  Indian 
girl.  I  had  established  my  quarters  at  a  short  distance  from 
the  bed  of  death,  and  my  lieutenant  was  nearest  the  door,  left 
open  purposely  to  dispel  the  heat  and  foul  air. 

Towards  two  o'clock  in  the  morning  I  was  waked  up  by  a 
shrill  voice,  and  I  felt  at  the  same  time  that  some  one  was 
passing  o\er  me,  and  uttering  cries  that  soon  were  heard 
outside  the  cabin.  I  immediately  stretched  out  my  hand 
towards  the  place  where  Alila  had  lain  down,  but  that  place 
was  empty ;  the  lamp  was  out,  and  the  darkness  complete. 

This  made  me  very  uneasy.  I  called  to  the  young  girl, 
who  answered  me  that  she  had  heard,  like  me,  cries  and  noise, 
but  she  was  ignorant  of  the  cause.  I  snatched  up  my  gun  and 
sallied  forth,  calling  out  to  my  lieutenant ;  but  to  no  purpose. 
No  one  answered ;  the  stillness  of  death  reigned  all  around. 
I  then  set  out,  walking  over  the  fields  at  hazard,  calling  out 


136  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

now  and  then  Alila's  name.  I  had  not,  perhaps,  r.  gone  a 
hundred  paces  when  I  heard  the  following  words,  pronounced 
most  timidly,  proceeding  from  a  tree  by  which  I  was  passing : 

"  I  am  here,  master." 

It  was  Alila  himself.  I  drew  nigh,  and  saw  my  lieutenant 
ensconced  behind  the  trunk  of  the  tree,  and  trembling  like  one 
of  its  leaves. 

"What  then  has  happened  to  you?"  I  inquired;  "and 
what  are  you  doing  there  ?" 

"Oh!  master,"  said  he  to  me;  "pray  forgive  me!  Bad 
thoughts  got  the  better  of  me;  it  was  the  young  Indian  girl 
inspired  me  with  them,  and  the  demon  blew  them  into  my 
inner  man.  I — I — I — drew  nigh,  during  the  night,  to  the 
young  girl's  resting-place,  and  when  I  saw  you  fast  asleep — I 
put  out  the  lamp." 

"  Well,  and  then — "  said  I,  most  impatiently  ana  angrily. 

"And  then — I  wished  to  take  a  kiss  from  the  young  girl; 
but,  at  the  very  moment  I  drew  nigh,  the  old  dead  woman  took 
her  daughter's  place,  so  I  only  met  with  a  cold  and  icy  face, 
and  at  the  same  moment  two  long  arms  stretched  out  to  seize 
upon  me.  Oh  !  it  was  then  I  gave  such  a  cry — and  I  fled ! 
fled  !  fled  !  but  the  old  woman  pursued  me — yes,  the  corpse 
tracked  me  behind;  and  she  has  only  just  now  disappeared,  on 
hearing  the  sound  of  your  voice.  I  then  hid  behind  this  tree, 
where  you  now  see  me,  in  a  piteous  plight." 

The  fright  of  the  Tagal  and  his  mistake  made  me  almost 
laugh  out ;  but  I  severely  reprimanded  him  for  the  bad  inten 
tion  he  had  of  abusing  the  hospitality  that  had  been  so  gra 
ciously  afforded  us  :  he  repented,  and  begged  of  me  to  excuse 
him.  He  was,  I  should  think,  sufficiently  punished  by  his 
fright.  I  wished  to  take  him  back  to  the  cabin  with  me ;  but 


PROBABLE   ORIGIN    OF   THE    T1NGUIANS.  137 

for  no  consideration  would  he  return.  I  therefore  left  my  gun 
in  his  charge,  and  went  back  to  the  house  of  mourning,  where 
I  found  the  poor  young  girl  just  as  frightened  as  he  was.  I 
soon  made  her  acquainted  with  the  adventure  ;  so  thanking 
her  for  her  kind  hospitality,  and  morning  coming  on,  I  re 
turned  to  Alila,  who  was  most  impatiently  expecting  me. 

The  hope  of  seeing  soon  again  our  relations,  our  homes, 
our  friends,  gave  us  new  courage,  and  before  sunset  we  arrived 
at  an  Indian  village,  without  anything  remarkable  having  taken 
place  :  this  was  to  be  our  last  stage.* 

*  It  would  be  difficult  to  establish  from  what  nations  the  divers  species 
of  men  who  inhabit  the  interior  of  Luzon  originally  came.  The  Tingui- 
ans,  from  their  fine  shape,  their  colour,  their  eyes,  their  almost  aquiline 
nose,  the  value  they  set  upon  china  vases,  their  music,  and  finally  from 
their  habits,  would  appear  to  be  the  descendants  of  the  Japanese.  It  is 
most  likely  that  at  a  very  distant  period  some  junks  from  the  Japan 
coasts,  hurried  along  by  strong  northern  winds,  may  have  been  wrecked 
upon  the  Luzon  shores,  and  that  their  crews,  seeing  no  possibility  of1 
returning  to  their  native  country,  as  well  as  to  avoid  the  Malayan  popu 
lation  that  was  in  possession  of  the  beaches, — it  is  possible,  I  say,  that  the 
shipwrecked  persons  withdrew  into  the  interior  of  the  mountains,  the  diffi 
culty  of  access  to  which  protected  them  from  all  invasion. 

The  Japanese  sailors,  who  are  merely  coasters,  sail  about  with  their 
wives,  as  I  had  an  opportunity  of  witnessing  on  board  many  junks, 
whither  I  went  through  mere  curiosity.  Those  same  junks,  beaten  by 
the  tempest,  had  steered  for  shelter  to  the  eastern  coast  of  Luzon,  where 
they  anchored  for  four  months,  waiting  for  the  return  of  the  monsoon  ; 
and  had  they  not  met  with  a  protecting  government,  their  crews  would 
have  been  compelled  to  fly  into  the  mountains,  as  I  suppose  the  Tinguians 
had  been  obliged  to  do.  The  latter  having  some  women  with  them,  must 
have  procured  others  from  among  the  neighbouring  population,  and  as  they 
inhabit  the  finest  and  healthiest  country  in  the  world,  their  number  must 
have  considerably  increased.  They  are  now  spread  over  sixteen  villages  : 
Palan,  Jalamey,  Mabuantoc,  Dalayap,  Lanquiden,  Baac,  Padanquitan  y 
Pangal,  Campasan  y  Danglas,  Lagayan,  Ganagan,  Malaylay,  Bucay,  Gad- 
dani,  Laganguilan  y  Madalag,  Manab,  Palog  y  Amay. 

The  Igorrots,  whom  I  had  less  opportunities  of  studying,  seem  to  be 
the  descendants  of  the  remains  of  the  grand  naval  army  of  the  Chinese 


J8Q 


TWENTY   YEARS   IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 


Inhabitants  ol  Boulacan 

After  this  long  and  interesting  journey  I  arrived  at  Quingua, 
a  village  in  the  province  of  Boulacan,  where  I  had  left  my 
friend  in  convalescence. 

Lima-On,  who,  after  attacking  Manilla,  on  the  30th  November,  1574,  had 
taken  refuge  in  the  province  of  Pangasinan,  in  the  gulf  of  Lingayan, 
where  he  was  a  second  time  defeated,  and  his  fleet  completely  destroyed. 
A  part  of  the  crew  escaped  into  the  mountains  of  Pangasinan,  where  the 
Spaniards  could  not  pursue  them. 

The  Igorrot  has  long  hair,  eyes  a  la  Chinoise,  a  flat  nose,  thick  lips, 
high  cheek  bones,  broad  shoulders,  strong  and  nervous  limbs,  and  bronze 
colour;  he  greatly  resembles  the  Chinese  of  the  southern  provinces  of  the 
Celestial  Empire. 

I  could  obtain  no  information  as  to  extraction  concerning  the  Guinans, 
another  people  of  savages,  ferocious  and  cruel,  who  live  in  the  neighbour 
hood  of  the  Tinguians. 

I  keep  back  for  a  future  period  a  description  of  the  Ajetas,  or  Negritos, 
the  aborigines  of  Luzon. 


MwrJlla  Fibhin.;  Halt 


CHAPTER    VII. 

I  return  to  Jala-Jala — An  Excursion  on  the  Lake — Rclempago's  Narrative — Re 
organisation  of  my  Government — A  Letter  from  my  Brother  Henry — His 
Arrival — He  joins  me  in  the  Management  of  my  Plantations — Cajoui,  the 
Bandit :  Anten-Anten — Indian  Superstition — A  Combat  with  the  Bandit — 
His  Death — A  Piratical  Descent — My  Lieutenant  is  Wounded — I  extract 
the  Ball,  and  cure  him. 


1\/TY  prolonged  absence  from  home  caused  great  uneasiness. 
"*-  Very  fortunately  my  wife  remained  at  Manilla,  and  was 
totally  ignorant  of  the  journey  I  had  recently  undertaken. 

My  patient  had  not  exactly  followed  the  prescribed  regimen, 
so  that  his  distemper  had  increased,  and  he  was  impatiently 


140  TWENTY    YEAES    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

expecting  to  return  and  dte,  he  said,  in  his  house  :  his  wishes 
were  complied  with.  A  few  days  after  my  arrival  we  set  out 
and  arrived  the  next  day  at  Manilla,  where  my  poor  friend 
rendered  his  last  sigh  in  the  middle  of  his  family.  This  event 
damped,  of  course,  the  pleasure  I  should  have  enjoyed  in  be 
holding  my  wife  once  more. 

A  few  days  after  the  demise  of  our  friend  we  embarked,  and 
set  sail  for  Jala-Jala. 

We  glided  most  agreeably  upon  the  lake  until  we  left  tha 
strait  of  Quinanbutasan,  but,  once  there,  we  met  with  so  vio 
lent  an  east  wind,  and  the  water  of  the  lake  was  so  ruffled,  that 
we  were  obliged  to  re-enter  the  strait,  and  cast  anchor  near 
the  cabin  of  the  old  fisherman,  Relempago,  whom  I  have 
already  noticed. 

Our  sailors  landed  to  prepare  their  supper;  as  for  ourselves, 
we  remained  in  our  boat,  where  we  stretched  ourselves  at  our 
ease,  the  old  fisherman,  as  he  sat  doubled  up  in  the  Indian 
fashion,  amusing  us  in  the  best  way  he  could  by  the  narration 
of  brigand  stories. 

I  interrupted  him  all  on  a  sudden,  saying  to  him  : 

"  Relempago,  I  should  prefer  hearing  the  history  of  your 
own  personal  adventures  ;  do,  therefore,  relate  your  misfortunes 
to  us." 

The  old  fisherman  heaved  a  sigh,  and  then,  unwilling  to 
disoblige  me,  began  his  story  in  the  poetical  terms  so  familiar 
to  the  Tagal  tongue,  and  which  it  is  almost  impossible  to  re 
produce  by  a  translation : 

"  Lagune  is  not  my  native  place," said  he ;  "I  was  born  in 
the  island  of  Zebou,  and  was  at  the  age  of  twenty  what  is 
called  a  fine  young  man ;  but,  pray  believe  me,  I  was  by  no 
means  proud  of  my  physical  advantages,  and  I  preferred  being 


KKLEMPAGOS    NARRATIVE.  141 

the  first  fisherman  of  iny  village.  Nevertheless,  my  comrades 
were  jealous  of  me,  and  all  that  because  the  young  girls  would 
look  at  me  with  a  certain  complaisant  air,  and  seemed  to  find 
me  to  their  liking." 

I  could  not  but  smile  at  this  frank  avowal  of  the  old  man, 
which  he  perceiving,  continued : 

"  I  tell  you  these  things,  sir,"  replied  he,  "  because  at  my 
age  one  can  speak  of  them  without  fearing  to  appear  ridicu 
lous — it  is  so  long  ago.  And  besides,  allow  me  to  inform  you 
that  I  relate  to  you  such  things,  not  from  vanity — Oh,  no  !  but 
merely  to  furnish  you  with  an  exact  recital.  Besides,  the  sly 
and  roguish  looks  that  young  girls  threw  at  me,  as  I  passed 
through  the  village,  flattered  me  in  no  manner.  I  was  in  love 
with  Theresa,  sir ;  yes,  I  was  passionately  in  love  with  her, 
and  my  love  was  returned,  for  fondly  did  she  love  me  ;  a  look 
from  any  other  but  from  her  was  totally  indifferent  to  me.  Ah ! 
Theresa  was  the  prettiest  lass  in  the  village !  but,  poor  soul ! 
she  has  done  like  myself — she  has  greatly  altered  ;  for  years  are 
an  enormous  weight,  which  bends  and  breaks  you  down  in  spite 
of  yourself,  and  against  which  there  is  no  way  of  struggling. 

"  When,  seated  as  I  am  at  present,  I  bethink  me  of  the 
fine  by-gone  days  of  my  youth — of  the  strength,  the  courage, 
that  we  used  to  find  in  our  ruutual  affection — Oh  !  I  shed 
tears  of  regret  and  sensibility.  Where  are  now  those  fine — 
those  happy  days  ?  Gone,  gone,  gone  !  they  have  fled  before 
the  piercing  and  terrible  winds  that  forerun  the  storms  and 
the  hurricanes.  Like  the  day,  life  has  its  dawn ;  like  the  day, 
also,  it  has  its  decline  !" 

Here  the  poor  old  fisherman  made  a  pause,  and  I  was 
loth  to  interrupt  him  in  his  meditation.  There  then  ensued 
a  profound  silence,  that  lasted  several  minutes.  Suddenly  Be 


J42  TWENTY   YEARS    IX   THE    PHILIPPINES. 

lempago  seemed  to  start  from  a  dream,  and  passing  his  hand 
over  his  forehead,  looked  at  us  for  some  time,  as  if  to  excuse 
himself  for  those  few  moments  of  mental  absence,  and  then  he 
continued  as  follows : 

*'  We  had  been  brought  up  together,"  said  he,  "  and  had 
been  affianced  as  soon  as  we  had  grown  up.  Theresa  would 
have  died  rather  than  belong  to  any  other,  and,  as  I  shall  here 
after  prove  it,  I  would  have  accepted  any  condition,  even  the 
most  unfavourable  one  rather,  than  abandon  the  friend  of  my 
heart.  Alas  !  it  is  almost  always  with  our  tears  that  we  trace 
our  painful  way  through  life.  Theresa's  relations  were  opposed 
to  our  union ;  they  even  put  forward  vain  and  frivolous  pre 
texts  ;  and  whatever  efforts  I  made  to  bring  them  to  decide 
upon  bestowing  her  affianced  hand  on  me,  I  never  could  succeed. 
And  yet  they  well  knew  that,  like  the  palm  tree,  we  could 
not  live  without  each  other,  and  we  were  to  be  separated, 
it  would  be  condemning  us  to  die.  But  our  tears,  our  prayers, 
our  griefs,  were  only  heard  by  senseless  people,  and  we  were 
labouring  under  the  most  poignant  grief,  while  no  one  would 
understand  or  sympathise  with  our  sorrow.  I  was  beginning 
to  lose  all  courage,  when  one  morning  there  came  into  my 
mind  the  pious  thought  of  offering  to  the  Infant  Jesus,  in  the 
church  of  Zebou,  the  first  pearl  I  should  fish  up.  I  therefore 
repaired  earlier  than  usual  to  the  sea-shore,  implored  the 
Almighty  to  grant  me  his  protection,  and  to  have  me  married 
to  my  beloved  Theresa.  The  sun  was  just  beginning  to  dart 
his  burning  rays  upon  the  earth,  and  was  gilding  the  surface 
of  the  waters.  Nature  was  awaking  from  her  transitory  sleep, 
and  every  living  being  or  object  was  singing  in  its  languag, 
a  hymn  to  the  Creator. 

"  With  a  beating  heart  I  began  diving  to  the  bottom  of  the 


RELEMPAGO's    NARRATIVE.  142 

sea,  in  search  of  the  pearl  which  I  so  ardently  wished  for,  but 
my  searches  and  struggles  were  completely  fruitless  at  first. 
Had  anyone  been  near  me  at  that  moment  he  would  have 
easily  read  my  disappointment  in  my  face.  Nevertheless,  my 
courage  failed  me  not.  I  began  again,  but  with  no  better 
success.  *  Oh,  Lord  !'  cried  I, '  thou  nearest  not  then  my  prayers, 
my  supplications  !  Thou  wilt  not  then  accept  for  thy  beloved 
son  the  offering  that  I  destine  for  him.'*  For  the  sixth  time 
T  plunged,  and  brought  up  from  the  bottom  of  the  sea  two 
enormous  oysters.  Oh !  how  my  heart  leaped  with  joy  !  I 
opened  one  of  them,  and  found  it  contained  a  pearl  so  large 
that  never  in  my  life  had  I  seen  one  like  it.  My  joy  was  so 
great  that  I  set-to  dancing  in  my  pirogue,  as  if  I  had  lost  my 
reason.  The  Lord,  then,  did  vouchsafe  to  protect  me,  since  He 
enabled  me  to  accomplish  my  vow.  With  a  joyful  heart  I 
retraced  my  steps  to  my  dwelling,  and,  not  wishing  to  fail  in 
my  word,  I  took  my  magnificent  pearl  to  the  curate  of  Zebou. 

"  The  reverend  father,"  continued  the  old  fisherman,  "  was 
delighted  with  my  present.  That  pearl  was  worth  5,000  piasters 
(or  25,000  francs,  i.  e.,  £1,000  English  money),  and  you  must 
have  admired  it — you,  as  well  as  all  other  persons  who  attend 
the  church — for  the  Infant  Jesus  always  holds  it  in  his  hand. 
The  curate  thanked  and  congratulated  me  on  my  very  good  idea. 

'"Go  home  in  peace,  brother,'  said  he  to  me ;  '  go  home  in 
peace.  Heaven  will  not  forget  thy  meritorious  action — yea, 
the  disinterestedness  of  thy  good  work,  and  sooner  or  later 
thy  desires  will  be  hearkened  to.' 

*  According  to  Indian  tradition,  and  to  Spanish  tradition  likewise,  the 
Infant  Jesus  of  Zebou  existed  before  the  discovery  of  the  Philippines.  After 
the  conquest  the  Infant  was  found  upon  the  sea-shore ;  the  Spanish  con 
(fiierors  deposited  it  in  the  cathedral,  where  it  performed  great  miracles. 


144  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES 

"  .1  left  the  holy  man  with  my  heart  joyful  indeed,  and  1 
hastened  to  inform  Theresa  of  the  pastor's  consoling  words  : 
we  rejoiced  like  two  children  together.  Ah !  true  indeed  it  is 
to  say  that  youth  has  been  endowed  by  the  Almighty  with 
every  privilege,  particularly  with  that  of  hope.  At  the  age  of 
twenty  if  the  heart  think  that  it  may  live  in  hope,  away  with 
all  cares  immediately ;  and,  as  the  morning  breeze  sips  up  the 
drops  of  moisture  that  have  been  left  by  the  storm  in  the 
chalice  of  flowers,  so  does  hope  dry  up  the  tears  that  moisten 
the  eyes  of  the  young,  and  drive  away  the  sighs  that  inflate 
and  oppress  the  breast.  So  sure  were  we  that  our  tribulations 
would  ere  long  be  o\er,  that  we  no  longer  thought  of  our  by 
gone  sorrow !  In  the  spring-time  of  life  grief  leaves  no  more 
trace  after  it  than  the  nimble  foot  of  the  wily  Indian  on  tne 
strand,  when  the  sea-wind  has  blown  over  it. 

"  The  inhabitants  of  the  village,  seeing  us  so  joyful,  so 
purely  happy,  were  envious  of  our  lot,  and  Theresa's  relations 
could  no  longer  find  any  pretext  for  opposing  our  being  united. 
We  were  now  in  fail  sight  of  connubial  bliss ;  our  boat  of  life 
was  gently  rocked  by  a  very  mild  wind ;  we  were  singing  the 
return-home  hymn,  not  supposing,  alas  !  that  we  were  going  to 
he  dashed  against  a  breaker !  Our  young  Indians  foresee 
not  in  the  morning  the  storm  that  is  to  assail  them  in  the 
evening.  The  buffalo  cannot  avoid  the  lasso,  and  most  often,  in 
order  to  avoid  it,  he  anticipates  the  danger.  I  roved  about,  I 
may  s  ay  heedlessly  thoughtless  of  the  precipice  before  my  feet. 
Misfortune  marked  me  for  her  own  when  I  least  expected  it. 

"  One  evening,  on  my  return  from  fishing,  at  the  moment 
when  I  was  repairing  to  Theresa's,  there  to  repose  myself  after 
my  fatigues  of  the  day,  I  saw  one  of  my  neighbours  advancing 
towards  me.  That  man  had  always  shown  me  the  greatest 


RELEMPAGO'S  NARRATIVE.  145 

affection,  so  that  on  seeing  him  thus  advance,  my  limbs  began 
to  tremble,  and  the  pulsations  of  my  heart  gradually  ceased. 
His  face  was  pale,  and  entirely  altered.  His  haggard  eyes 
threw  forth  flashes  of  terror,  and  his  voice  was  trembling  and 
agitated. 

"  '  Los  Moros*  have  made  a  descent  upon  the  coast,'  said 
he  to  me. 

"  '  Good  Heavens  !'  exclaimed  I,  covering  my  face  with  my 
hands. 

"  '  They  surprised  some  persons  of  the  village,  and  carried 
them  off  prisoners.' 

"  '  And  Theresa  ?'  exclaimed  I. 

"  '  Carried  off  with  the  others,'  he  replied. 

"  I  heard  no  more  of  this  revelation,  and  for  some  minutes 
— like  the  warrior  pierced  to  the  heart  by  a  poisoned  arrow — 
I  was  completely  deprived  of  all  consciousness. 

"  When  I  came  back  to  myself  tears  flooded  my  face,  and 
brought  me  some  relief:  but  suddenly  I  resumed  my  courage, 
and  felt  that  no  time  was  to  be  lost.  I  ran  to  the  shore  where  I 
had  left  my  pirogue,  which  I  unfastened,  and,  as  quickly  as  oars 
could  pull  me,  I  pursued  the  Malays,  not  in  the  hope  of 
wresting  Theresa  from  them,  but  resolved  upon  partaking  of 
her  captivity  and  misfortune.  We  better  endure  the  suffer 
ings  we  have  to  undergo  when  we  are  two  together  than  when 
we  are  alone.  He  who  had  brought  me  the  fatal  tidings  saw 
me  start,  and  thought  I  had  lost  my  senses ;  the  fact  is, 
my  countenance  bore  all  the  traces  of  mental  alienation. 
Methought  I  was  inspired  by  the  grand  master-spirit ;  my 
pirogue  bounded  along  the  troubled  waters  of  the  ocean  as  if 
it  possessed  wings.  One  would  have  said  that  I  had  twenty 
*  The  Malays. 

G 


146  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

rowers  at  my  disposal,  and  I  cleft  the  waves  with  the  same 
rapidity  as  the  halcyon's  flight,  when  wafted  away  by  the 
hurricane.  After  a  short  time's  laborious  and  painful  rowing 
I  at  last  came  in  view  of  the  corsairs  who  were  carrying  away 
rny  treasure.  At  the  sight  my  strength  was  renewed  again, 
and  I  was  soon  up  with  them.  When  I  was  side  by  side  with 
them  I  informed  them,  in  words  the  most  feeling,  and  which 
sprang  from  my  poor  lacerated  heart,  that  Theresa  was  my 
wife,  and  that  I  would  prefer  being  a  slave  with  her  to  aban 
doning  her.  The  pirates  listened  to  my  voice,  stifled  by  my 
tears,  and  took  me  on  board,  not  from  commiseration,  but  from 
cruelty.  In  fact,  I  was  a  slave  more  added  to  their  numbers : 
why  should  they  have  repulsed  me  ?  A  few  days  after  that 
fatal  evening  we  arrived  at  Jolo.  There  the  division  of  the 
slaves  was  made,  and  the  master  into  whose  hands  we  fell 
took  us  away  with  him.  Was  it,  then,  to  undergo  a  like 
destiny  that  I  had  dived  so  early  in  the  morning  for  a  pearl 
for  the  Infant  Jesus  of  Zebou  ?  Yes,  was  it  for  this  that 
I  had  made  a  vow  to  bring  him  the  first  pearl  I  should  find  ? 
Notwithstanding  my  profound  sorrow  I  murmured  not,  neither 
did  I  regret  my  offering.  The  Lord  was  the  master  !  His 
will  should  be  done." 

Here  Relempago  paused,  and  looked  towards  Heaven 
with  a  smile  of  angelic  resignation,  and  we  then  remarked 
upon  his  face  the  furrows  traced  by  the  deep  sorrows  of  his 
life.  The  wind  was  still  blowing  with  violence,  and  our  boat 
was  dancing  on  the  waves ;  our  sailors  had  finished  their 
repast,  and,  in  order  to  listen  to  the  fisherman's  tale  of  woe, 
had  taken  up  their  place  by  his  side.  Their  features  wore 
an  expression  of  the  most  innocent  attention  ;  so,  having  made 
a  sign  to  the  narrator,  he  resumed  his  story  as  follows  : — 


BELEMPAGO'S    NARRATIVE  147 

*  Our  captivity  lasted  two  years,  during  which  time  we 
had  to  endure  "very  great  sufferings.  Very  often  would  my 
master  take  me  away  with  him  to  a  lake  in  the  interior  of  the 
island,  and  these  ahsences  lasted  for  whole  months  together, 
during  which  time  I  was  perforce  separated  from  my  Theresa, 
my  dear  wife ;  for,  not  having  been  able  to  get  united  by  a 
clergyman,  we  had  joined  ourselves,  under  the  all-benevolent 
and  protecting  eye  of  the  Almighty  !  On  my  return,  I  used  to 
find  my  poor  companion  still  the  same  good,  faithful,  devoted, 
and  affectionate  friend,  whose  courage  sustained  my  own. 

"  One  circumstance  decided  me  upon  taking  an  audacious 
resolution.  Theresa  was  in  an  interesting  situation  !  Oh !  what 
would  not  my  joy  have  been  had  I  been  at  Z6bou,  in  the  midst 
of  our  family  and  of  our  friends  !  What  happiness  should  I 
not  have  felt  at  the  idea  of  being  a  father !  Alas  !  in  slavery, 
that  very  same  thought  froze  my  blood  with  terror,  and  I 
firmly  resolved  upon  snatching  both  mother  and  child  from 
the  tortures  of  captivity.  In  one  of  our  excursions  I  had 
been  wounded  in  the  leg,  and  this  wound  came  greatly  to  my 
aid.  One  day  my  master  set  out  for  the  borders  of  the 
grand  lake,  and,  knowing  I  had  a  bad  leg,  left  me  at  Jolo.  I 
availed  myself  of  this  opportunity  to  put  into  execution  a 
project  that  I  had  formed  for  a  long  time,  that  of  flying 
with  Theresa.  The  task  was  a  daring  one,  but  the  desire  of 
freedom  doubles  one's  strength  and  increases  one's  courage, 
so  I  did  not  hesitate  for  a  moment.  When  night  had  lowered, 
iny  dear  Theresa  took  a  road  I  had  pointed  out  to  her,  I 
went  by  another  one,  and  we  both  arrived  at  the  sea-shore  at 
a  short  distance  from  each  other.  There  we  jumped  into  a 
pirogue,  and  threw  ourselves  upon  the  protection  of  Divine 
mercy ! 


148  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

"We  rowed  vigorously  the  whole  night,  and  never  in  my 
life  shall  I  forget  that  mysterious  flight.  The  wind  blew  rather 
violently,  the  night  was  dark,  and  the  stars  insensibly  lost 
their  vivid  brightness.  Every  moment  we  thought  we  heard 
behind  us  the  noise  of  our  pursuers,  and  our  hearts  beat  so 
loud  and  so  violently  that  they  could  be  heard  in  the  midst 
of  the  silence  that  reigned  around  all  nature. 

"  Day  at  last  appeared :  we  descried  by  degrees,  in  the 
mist  of  the  morning,  the  rocks  that  lined  the  shore,  and  we 
could  see  far  enough  in  the  distance  that  no  one  was  pursuing 
us.  Then  were  our  hearts  filled  with  cheering  hope,  and  we 
continued  rowing  towards  the  north,  in  order  to  land  on  some 
Christian  isle. 

"  I  had  taken  with  me  some  cocoa-nuts,  but  they  were  a  very 
small  resource,  and  we  had  been  at  sea  three  whole  days 
without  eating  anything,  when,  exhausted  by  fatigue  and  want, 
we  fell  upon  our  knees  and  invoked  the  pity,  compassion,  and 
succour  of  the  Infant  Jesus  of  Zebou.  Our  prayer  over,  we 
felt  our  strength  completely  exhausted ;  the  oars  fell  from  our 
hands,  and  we  lay  down  in  the  bottom  of  the  pirogue,  decided 
upon  dying  in  each  other's  arms. 

"  Our  weakness  gradually  increased,  and  finally  we  swooned 
away,  the  pirogue  all  the  while  dashing  heedlessly  on  with  the 
waves 

'•  When  wo  recovered  from  our  fainting  fit — I  know  not 
how  long  it  lasted — we  found  ourselves  surrounded  by  Chris 
tians,  who,  having  perceived  us  in  our  light  skiff,  had  come  to 
our  aid,  conveyed  us  to  their  hospitable  dwelling,  and  took  the 
most  pious  care  of  us.  We  had  not  long  been  disembarked 
when  Theresa  was  taken  with  the  pains  of  labour,  and  was 
confined  of  a  very  diminutive,  .sickly  child.  I  went  down  on 


BELKMPAGO'S    NARRATIVE.  MO 

my  knees  before  the  innocent  little  creature  that  had  sc 
miraculously  escaped  from  slavery,  and  prayed  for  it — it  was 
a  boy !  " 

Here  the  poor  old  fisherman  heaved  a  heavy  sigh,  while 
tears  were  fast  falling  upon  his  shrunken  hands. 

We  one  and  all  respected  this  painful  recollection  of  tho 
poor  old  man. 

"  Our  convalescence  was  very  long  indeed,"  said  Kelem- 
pngo ;  "at  last  our  health  was  sufficiently  restored  to  permit 
of  us  leaving  the  isle  of  Negros,  where  the  Infant  Jesus  had 
so  miraculously  caused  us  to  land,  and  we  came  to  settle  here, 
on  the  side  of  this  large  lake,  which,  being  situated  in  the 
interior  of  the  isle  of  Lucon,  afforded  me  the  means  of  pur 
suing  my  avocation  of  fisherman  without  in  any  way  fearing 
the  Malays,  who  might  very  easily  have  captured  us  again  at 
Zebou. 

"  My  first  care — yes,  the  dearest  act  of  my  life— on  arriving, 
was  to  have  our  marriage  celebrated  in  the  church  of  Moron. 
I  had  promised  it  to  God,  and  I  would  not  fail  in  the  promise 
I  had  made  Him  who  reads  all  hearts.  After  that  I  built 
the  little  cottage  you  see  hard-by,  and  my  existence  glided  on 
most  peacefully.  The  fishing  trade  went  on  prosperously.  I 
was  still  a  young  man,  active  and  intelligent,  and  sold  my  fish 
very  easily  to  the  vessels  passing  through  the  strait.  My  son 
had  by  this  time  become  a  fine  young  man." 

"  Of  course  he  resembled  his  father,"  said  I,  recollecting 
the  beginning  of  the  old  man's  tale,  but  my  remark  could  not 
excite  a  smile  upon  his  countenance. 

"  Oh !  the  lad  was  a  good  fisherman,"  continued  he,  "  and 
happily  did  we  all  three  live  together,  till  a  dreadful  mis 
fortune  befell  us.  The  Infant  Jesus  had  no  doubt  forsaken 


150  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

us,  or  perhaps  the  Almighty  was  displeased  with  us  ;  but  I 
am  far  from  murmuring.  He  has  visited  us  most  severely, 
since  He  has  overwhelmed  us  with  grief  of  such  a  strong 
nature,  that  it  must  accompany  us  to  our  last  resting-place ! " 

And  here  the  poor  old  man's  tears  trickled  down  his  weather- 
beaten  cheeks  once  more,  in  abundance,  in  bitterness,  and  in 
sorrow. 

Ah !  how  right  was  the  Italian  poet,  when  he  said  :— 

"  Nought  lasteth  here  below  but  tears !  " 

The  voice  of  Relempago  was  stifled  by  his  sobbing ;  how 
ever,  he  made  one  more  effort,  and  continued  thus  : 

"  One  night — a  fine  moonlight  night — we  set  our  nets  in  a 
certain  part  of  the  strait,  and  as  we  felt  so.me  difficulty  in  drawing 
them  up,  the  lad  plunged  into  the  water  to  ascertain  what 
obstacle  we  had  to  contend  with,  and  to  set  all  to  rights.  I 
was  in  my  pirogue,  leaning  over  the  side,  waiting  for  his 
return,  when  all  of  a  sudden  I  thought  I  saw,  through  the 
silvery  beams  of  the  lamp  of  night,  a  large  spot  of  blood 
spreading  itself  over  the  surface  of  the  water.  Fear  took 
possession  of  me,  and  I  quickly  hauled  up  my  nets.  My  hap 
less  child  had  seized  upon  and  become  entangled  in  them — • 
but,  alas !  when  he  came  to  the  surface  he  was  a  corpse !  " 

"  What !  your  son  ?  "  cried  I. 

"My  poor  dear  Jose-Maria,"  said  he,  "had  his  head 
bitten  off  by  a  cayman  that  had  got  entangled  in  our  nets. ' 
Ever  since  that  night— that  fatal  night ! — Theresa  and  I  offer 
up  our  prayers  to  the  Omnipotent,  imploring  Him  to  take 
us  to  himself;  for,  alas  !  nothing  now  has  any  charms  for  us 
here  below.  The  first  of  us  that  will  depart  for  that  bourn 
from  whence  no  traveller  returns  will  be  interred  by  the 


RE-ORGANISATION    OF   MY   GOVERNMENT.  151 

survivor  beside  our  beloved  child — there,  under  that  little 
hillock  yonder,  which  is  surmounted  by  a  wooden  cross,  in  front 
of  my  humble  cottage ;  and  the  last  of  us  two  to  leave  this 
valley  of  tears  will  no  doubt  meet  with  some  charitable  Christian 
hand,  to  place  our  mortal  remains  beside  the  bodies  of  those 
we  loved  so  tenderly  during  our  hapless  pilgrimage  here 
below." 

Here  Relempago  ceased  his  painful  history,  and,  that  he 
might  give  a  free  course  to  his  grief  and  tears,  he  rose  up, 
and  bowed  us  his  adieu,  which  we  returned  to  him  with  hearts 
oppressed  with  sympathetic  sorrow. 

The  wind  had  ceased  blowing,  and  the  attentive  sailors 
were  awaiting  our  orders,  so  that  in  a  few  moments  afterwards 
we  were  sailing  towards  Jala-Jala,  where  we  landed  before 
sunset 

On  the  morrow  of  my  arrival  I  entered  on  the  business  of 
my  little  government,  to  which  my  absence  had  been  far  from 
useful  or  favourable,  so  that  I  was  obliged  to  suppress  many 
abuses  that  had  crept  into  it  while  I  had  been  away.  Some 
slight  corrections,  joined  to  an  active  and  incessant  surveillance, 
or  inspection,  soon  established  once  more  the  most  perfect 
order  and  discipline;  so  that,  from  that  moment,  I  was  at 
liberty  to  devote  all  my  time  and  attention  to  the  cultivation 
of  my  lands. 

We  were  now  at  the  beginning  of  the  winter — the  rainy 
and  windy  season.  No  stranger  had  dared  crossing  the  lake, 
to  come  and  visit  us,  so  that,  alone  with  my  dear  wife,  our  days 
glided  most  happily  and  tranquilly  away,  for  we  knew  not 
what  ennui  was  or  meant :  our  mutual  affection  was  so  great 
that  our  own  presence  was  sufficient  company  for  each  other. 

This  delightful  solitude  was  soon  interrupted  by  a  fortunate 


152  TWENTY   YEAES   IN   THE    PHILIPPINES. 

and  unforeseen  event.  A  letter  from  Manilla — a  very  rare 
circumstance  at  Jala-Jala — reached  me,  informing  me  that  my 
eldest  brother,  Henry,  had  just  arrived  there  ',  that  lie  had  put 
up  at  my  brother-in-law's ;  and  that  he  was  expecting  me  with 
all  imaginable  impatience.  I  was  not  aware  that  he  had  left 
France  to  come  and  see  me,  so  that  such  news,  and  his  sudden, 
as  well  as  unexpected,  arrival,  surprised  and  overjoyed  me. 

I  was  once  more  to  see  one  of  my  dearest  relations  -  a 
brother  whom  T  had  always  tenderly  loved.  Ah !  he  who  has 
never  quitted  his  home,  his  family,  and  his  early  attachments,  will 
with  difficulty  understand  the  emotions  I  experienced  on  receiv 
ing  this  agreeable  letter.  When  the  first  transports  of  my  joy 
were  somewhat  allayed,  I  resolved  to  set  out  at  once  for 
Manilla.  Preparations  for  my  departure  were  speedily  made. 
I  chose  my  lightest  canoe,  and  my  two  strongest  Indians,  and 
a  few  minutes  after,  having  embraced  my  beloved  Anna,  I  was 
scudding  over  the  waters  of  the  lake,  slowly — too  slowly  for  my 
impatience,  as  I  wished  to  be  able  to  give  wings  to  my  fragile 
skiff,  and  to  traverse  the  distance  that  separated  me  from  my 
brother  as  rapidly  as  my  thoughts:  no  journey  ever  appeared  to 
me  so  long,  and  nevertheless  my  two  robust  rowers  exerted 
all  their  strength  to  favour  my  wishes.  At  length  I  arrived, 
and  immediately  hastened  to  my  brother-in-law's,  and  there  I 
threw  myself  into  Henry's  arms.  Our  emotions  were  such 
that  for  some  time  we  could  not  speak;  the  abundant 
tears  we  shed  alone  showed  the  joy  of  our  hearts.  When  the 
first  transport  was  over,  I  asked  him  questions  beyond  number. 
Not  one  member  of  my  family  was  forgotten;  the  smallest 
details  concerning  these  beloved  beings  were  to  me  of  the 
greatest  interest.  We  passed  the  remainder  of  the  day  and 
the  following  night  in  incessant  and  interesting  conversation 


MY    BROTHER   JOINS   ME.  153 

The  next  day  we  started  for  Jala-Jala.  Henry  was  eager  to 
become  acquainted  with  his  sister-in  law,  and  I  to  make  the 
dear  companion  of  my  life  a  sharer  in  my  happiness.  Excel 
lent  Anna  !  my  joy  was  joy  for  you — my  happiness  was  your 
delight !  You  received  Henry  as  a  brother,  and  this  sisterly 
attachment  was  always,  on  your  part,  as  sincere  as  your  affec 
tion  for  me  had  ever  been. 

After  a  few  days  spent  in  the  most  agreeable  conversation 
about  France,  and  about  all  those  beloved  friends  who  remained 
there,  feelings  of  sadness  that  I  could  with  difficulty  repress 
became  intermingled  with  my  joy.  I  thought  of  our  numerous 
family,  so  far  distant,  and  so  scattered  over  the  globe.  My 
youngest  brother  was,  to  my  great  regret,  dead  at  Madagascar. 
My  second  brother,  Robert,  resided  at  Porto- Rico ;  and  my 
two  brothers-in-law,  both  captains  of  vessels,  engaged  in  long 
voyages,  were  gone  to  the  Indies.  My  poor  mother  and  my 
poor  sisters  were  alone,  without  protectors,  without  support : 
what  sad  moments  of  fear  and  anxiety  you  must  have  spent  in 
your  solitude !  Ah !  how  I  should  have  rejoiced  to  have  you 
near  me ;  but,  alas !  a  whole  world  separated  us,  and  the  hope 
of  seeing  you  again  one  day  could  alone  scatter  the  clouds  that 
darkened  occasionally  the  happy  days  adorned  by  the  presence 
of  my  brother. 

After  some  time  of  rest,  Henry  asked  to  join  me  in  my 
labours.  I  then  made  him  acquainted  with  my  mode  of 
cultivation,  and  he  took  upon  himself  the  management  of  the 
plantations  and  of  their  products.  I  reserved  to  myself  the 
regulation  of  my  Indians,  the  charge  of  the  flocks,  and  that  of 
putting  down  the  bandits. 

I  had  frequent  quarrels,  and  even  incessant  conflicts,  with 
these  turbulent  Indians ;  but  I  never  boasted  of  these  petty 

G* 


154  TWENTY   YEARS   IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

engagements,  in  which  I  was  often  obliged  to  take  a  most  active 
part.  On  the  contrary,  I  recommended  strict  silence  to  my 
attendants,  for  I  did  not  wish  to  cause  anxiety  to  my  excellent 
Anna,  nor  to  give  my  brother  the  desire  of  accompanying 
me.  I  did  not  like  to  expose  him  to  the  dangers  I  ran 
myself,  as  I  had  not  equal  hopes  of  safety  for  him.  I 
relied  upon  my  star,  and  really,  to  a  certain  degree,  all 
modesty  aside,  I  think  that  the  bandits'  balls  respected  me. 
When  I  was  engaged  in  contests  in  the  plain,  or  in  some  of 
the  skirmishes,  the  danger  was  not  great ;  but  it  was  quite  a 
different  thing  when  it  was  necessary  to  fight  hand  to  hand, 
which  happened  more  than  once;  and  I  cannot  forbear  the 
pleasure  of  relating  one  of  those  circumstances  that  made  me 
say  just  now  the  bandits'  balls  respected  me. 

One  day  i  was  alone  with  my  lieutenant,  having  both  of  us 
only  our  daggers,  and  we  were  coming  back  to  our  habitation, 
and  passing  through  a  thick  forest,  situated  at  the  end  of  the 
lake.  Alila  said  to  me:  "Master,  this  neighbourhood  is 
much  frequented  by  Cajoui."  Cajoui  was  known  as  the  chief 
of  a  most  daring  gang  of  brigands.  Among  his  numerous 
atrocities  he  had  amused  himself,  on  that  very  day,  by  drown 
ing  twenty  of  his  fellow-countrymen.  I  then  determined  to 
free  the  country  of  the  odious  assassin,  and  the  advice  of  my 
lieutenant  induced  me  to  take  a  narrow  path,  that  led  us  to  a 
hut  concealed  in  the  midst  of  the  woods.  I  told  Alila  to 
remain  below,  and  to  watch,  while  I  went  to  endeavour  to  recon 
noitre  the  persons  who  inhabited  it.  I  went  up  by  the  small 
ladder  that  leads  to  the  interior  of  the  Tagalese  huts ;  a  young 
Indian  woman  was  there,  quite  alone,  and  very  busy  plaiting  a 
mat.  I  asked  her  for  some  fire  to  light  my  cigar;  and  returned 
to  my  lieutenant.  Having  accidentally  cast  my  eyes  upon  the 


CAJOUI,    TOE    BANDIT ANTEN-ANTEN.  155 

exterior  of  the  hut,  it  appeared  much  larger  than  it  did  inside. 
I  ran  up  again  quickly,  and  looked  all  round  the  place  in  which 
the  young  girl  was,  and  observed  at  the  extremity  of  it  a 
small  door,  covered  over  by  a  mat.  I  gave  it  a  strong  push,  and 
at  the  moment,  Cajoui,  who,  with  his  carbine  on  cock,  was  wait 
ing  for  me  behind  the  door,  fired  straight  at  me.  The  fire 
and  the  smoke  blinded  me,  and  by  a  most  inconceivable  chance 
the  ball  slightly  grazed  my  clothes  without  wounding  me. 
Alila,  knowing  J  had  no  fire-arms,  hearing  the  report,  thought 
I  was  killed.  He  ran  up  to  the  top  of  the  steps,  and  found  me 
enveloped  in  a  cloud  of  smoke,  with  my  dagger  in  my  hand, 
trying  to  find  my  enemy,  who  seeing  me  still  standing  erect, 
after  he  had  shot  at  me,  thought,  no  doubt,  I  had  about  me 
some  anten-anten—a.  certain  diabolic  incantation  that,  accord 
ing  to  the  Indian  belief,  makes  a  man  invulnerable  to  all  sorts 
of  fire-arms.  The  bandit  was  frightened,  jumped  out  of  a 
window,  and  ran  away  as  fast  as  he  could  across  the  forest. 

Alila  could  not  believe  what  had  happened  to  me ;  he  felt 
all  over  my  body,  in  order  to  convince  himself  that  the  ball  had 
not  passed  through  me.  When  he  was  quite  sure  that  I  had 
not  received  a  wound,  he  said  to  me . 

Master,  if  you  had  not  had  the  anten-anten  about  you 
you  would  have  been  killed." 

My  Indians  always  believed  I  was  possessed  of  this  secret, 
as  well  as  of  many  others.  For  instance,  when  they  often  saw 
me  go  for  twenty-four,  even  for  thirty-six  hours,  without  eating 
or  drinking,  they  became  persuaded  that  I  could  live  in  that 
manner  for  an  indefinite  period  ;  and  one  day,  a  good  Tagalese 
padre,  in  whose  house  I  chanced  to  be,  almost  went  upon  his 
knees  while  begging  me  to  communicate  to  him  the  power  I  pos 
sessed,  as  he  said,  to  live  without  food. 


15f>  TWENTY   YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

The  Tagals  have  retained  all  their  old  superstitions.  How 
ever,  thanks  to  the  Spaniards,  they  are  all  Christians  ;  but  they 
understand  that  religion  nearly  in  the  way  that  children  do. 
They  believe  that  to  attend  on  Sundays  and  festival  days  at  the 
Divine  offices,  and  to  go  to  confession  and  to  communion  once 
a  year,  is  sufficient  for  the  remission  of  all  their  sins.  A 
little  anecdote  that  occurred  to  me  will  show  how  far  they 
understand  evangelical  charity. 

One  day  two  young  Indians  stole  some  poultry  from  one  of 
their  neighbours,  a'nd  they  came  to  sell  them  to  my  major- 
domo  for  about  sixpence.  I  had  them  called  before  me,  to 
administer  a  lecture,  and  to  punish  them  With  the  utmost 
simplicity  they  made  me  this  answer : 

"  It  is  true,  master,  we  have  done  wrong,  but  we  could  not 
do  otherwise  ;  we  are  to  go  to  communion  to-morrow,  and  we 
had  not  money  enough  to  get  a  cup  of  chocolate." 

It  is  a  custom  with  them  to  take  a  cup  of  chocolate  after 
communion,  and  it  was  considered  by  them  a  greater  sin  to 
miss  taking  that  than  to  commit  the  trifling  theft  of  which 
they  were  guilty. 

Two  evil-doing  demons  play  an  important  part  among 
them,  and  in  which  all  believed  before  the  conquest  of  the 
Philippine  islands.  One  of  those  malevolent  demons  is  the 
Tic-balan  which  I  have  already  mentioned,  who  dwells  in 
the  forests,  in  the  interior  of  the  large  fig-trees.  This  demon 
can  do  every  possible  harm  to  anyone  who  dares  not  to  respect 
him,  or  who  does  not  carry  certain  herbs  about  his  person , 
every  time  an  Indian  passes  under  one  of  these  fig-trees  he 
makes  a  movement  towards  it  with  his  hand,  saying:  "  Tavit-po,1 
Tagal  words,  signifying :  "  Lord  !  with  your  permission  !"  The 
lord  of  the  place  is  the  Tic-balan. 


INDIAN    SUPERSTITION.  157 

The  other  demon  is  called  Azuan.  She  presides  especially 
over  parturitions  in  an  evil  manner,  and  an  Indian  is  often 
seen,  when  his  wife  is  in  labour,  perched  upon  the  roof  of  his 
hut,  with  a  sabre  in  his  hand,  thrusting  the  point  into  the  air, 
and  striking  on  all  sides  with  the  edge,  to  drive  away,  as  he 
says,  the  Azuan.  Sometimes  he  continues  this  manoeuvring 
for  hours,  until  the  labour  is  over.  One  of  their  beliefs — and 
one  that  Europeans  might  envy — is,  that  when  a  child  that  has 
not  reached  the  age  of  reason  dies,  it  is  happy  for  all  the  family, 
since  it  is  an  angel  that  has  gone  to  heaven,  to  be  the  pro 
tector  of  all  its  relations.  The  day  of  the  interment  is  a  grand 
fete-day ;  relations  and  friends  are  invited ;  they  drink,  they 
dance,  and  they  sing  all  night  in  the  hut  where  the  child  died. 
But  I  perceive  that  the  superstitions  of  the  Indians  are  draw 
ing  me  from  my  subject.  I  shall  have  occasion,  further  on,  to 
describe  the  manners  and  customs  of  these  singular  people. 

I  now  resume  my  statement,  at  the  moment  when  my  lieu 
tenant  tried  to  assure  me  that  I  had  some  anten-anten,  and  that 
consequently  I  could  not  be  wounded  by  a  shot  fired  at  me. 

He  then  addressed  the  young  girl,  who  had  remained  in 
the  corner,  more  dead  than  alive. 

"  Ah  !  cursed  creature  !"  said  he  to  her  ;  "  you  are  Cajoui's 
mistress :  now  your  turn  is  come  !" 

At  this  moment  he  advanced  towards  her  with  his  dagger 
in  his  hand.  I  ran  between  him  and  the  poor  girl,  for  I  knew 
he  was  capable  of  killing  anyone,  particularly  after  I  had  been 
attacked  in  a  manner  that  had  placed  me  in  danger. 

"  Wretch !"  said  I  to  him,  "  what  are  you  going  to  do  ?" 

"  No  great  things,  master ;  only  to  cut  off  the  hair  and 
ears  of  this  vile  woman,  and  then  send  her  to  tell  Cajoui  that 
we  shall  soon  catch  him  !" 


158  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

it  cost  me  much  trouble  to  prevent  him  from  executing  his 
plan.  I  was  obliged  to  use  all  my  authority,  and  to  allow  him 
to  burn  the  cabin,  after  the  terrified  young  girl,  thanks  to  my 
protection,  had  fled  into  the  forest. 

My  lieutenant  was  right  in  sending  word  to  Cajoui  that 
we  should  catch  him.  Some  months  after,  and  several  leagues 
from  the  place  where  we  had  set  fire  to  his  cabin,  one  day, 
when  three  men  of  my  guard  accompanied  me,  we  discovered, 
in  the  thickest  part  of  the  wood,  a  small  hut.  My  Indians 
rushed  forward  in  quick  time  to  surround  it;  but  almost  all 
round  it  there  was  found  a  morass,  covered  over  with  sedges 
and  bushes,  when  all  three  sunk  in  the  mud,  up  to  their  middle. 
As  I  did  not  run  as  fast  as  they  did  I  perceived  the  danger, 
and  went  round  the  marsh,  so  as  to  reach  the  cabin  by  the 
only  accessible  way.  Suddenly  I  found  myself  face  to  face 
with  Cajoui,  and  near  enough  almost  to  touch  him.  I  had  my 
dagger  in  my  hand  :  he.  also  had  his — the  struggle  began.  For 
a  few  seconds  we  aimed  many  strokes  at  each  other,  which 
each  of  us  tried  to  avoid  as  well  as  he  could.  I  think,  how 
ever,  that  fortune  was  turning  against  me;  the  point  of  Cajoui 's 
poignard  had  already  entered  rather  deeply  into  my  right  arm, 
when  with  my  left  hand  I  took  from  my  belt  a  large-sized 
pistol.  I  discharged  it  full  at  his  breast :  the  ball  and  the 
wadding  went  through  his  body.  For  a  few  seconds  Cajoui 
endeavoured  still  to  defend  himself;  I  struck  him  with  all  my 
force,  and  he  fell  at  my  feet ;  I  then  wrested  from  him  his  dagger, 
which  I  still  retain.  My  people  came  out  of  the  mud-hole  and 
joined  me.  Compassion  soon  replaced  the  animosity  we  bore 
against  Cajoui.  We  made  a  sort  of  litter;  I  bandaged  his 
wound,  and  we  carried  him  more  than  six  leagues  in  this 
manner  to  my  habitation,  where  he  received  all  the  care  his  state 


DEATH    OF   THE    BANDIT.  159 

required.  Every  moment  I  expected  him  to  die;  every  quarter 
of  an  hour  my  people  came  to  tell  me  how  he  was ;  and  they 
kept  saying  to  me  : 

"  Master,  he  cannot  die,  because  he  has  the  anten-anten 
upon  him ;  and  it  is  very  lucky  that  you  have  some  of  it  too, 
and  that  you  fired  at  him,  for  our  arms  would  have  been  of  no 
avail  against  him." 

I  laughed  at  their  simplicity,  and  expected  from  one  minute 
to  another  to  hear  that  the  wounded  man  had  breathed  his 
last,  when  my  lieutenant  brought  me,  quite  joyously,  a  small 
manuscript,  about  two  inches  square,  saying  to  me : 

"  Here,  master,  is  the  anten-anten  I  found  upon  Cajoui's 
body." 

At  the  same  time  one  of  my  men  announced  his  death. 

"  Ah  I"  said  Alila,  "  if  I  had  not  taken  the  anten-anten  from 
him  he  would  be  still  alive." 

I  searched  the  small  book  through  and  through;  prayers 
and  invocations  that  had  not  much  sense  were  therein  written 
in  the  Tagalese  language.  A  good  friar  who  was  present  took 
it  out  of  my  hands.  I  imagined  that  he  had  the  same  curiosity 
as  I  had,  but  by  no  means ;  he  rose  up  and  went  into  the 
kitchen,  and  in  a  short  time  after  came  out  and  told  me  that 
he  had  made  an  auto-da-fe  of  it.  My  poor  lieutenant  almost 
cried  with  vexation,  for  he  considered  the  little  book  to  be  his 
property,  and  thought  that  in  possession  of  it  he  would  be 
invulnerable.  I  should  also  have  wished  to  have  kept  it,  as  a 
curious  specimen  of  Indian  superstition.  The  next  day  I  had 
much  trouble  to  persuade  my  stout  friend,  Father  Miguel,  to  bury 
Cajoui  in  the  cemetery.  He  maintained  that  a  man  who  died 
with  the  anten-anten  upon  him  ought  not  to  receive  Christian 
burial.  To  make  him  accede  to  my  wishes  it  was  necessary  to 


ICO  TWENTY   TEAKS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

tell  him  that  the  anten-anten  had  been  taken  from  Cajoui  before 
his  death,  and  that  he  had  time  to  repent. 

A  few  days  after  Cajoui's  death  it  was  my  faithful  Alila's 
turn  to  encounter  danger,  not  less  imminent  than  that  to  which 
I  had  been  exposed,  at  the  time  of  my  combat  with  the  bandit 
chief.  But  Alila  was  brave,  and,  although  he  had  no  anten 
anten,  fire-arms  did  not  frighten  him. 

Large  vessels — real  Noah's  arks — freighted  by  various 
merchants,  sailed  every  week  from  the  town  of  Pasig  for  that 
}f  Santa-Cruz,  where  every  Thursday  a  large  market  was  held. 
Eight  daring  and  determined  brigands  went  on  board  one  of 
these  vessels :  they  hid  their  arms  among  the  bales  of  goods. 
The  ship  was  scarcely  out  at  sea  when  they  seized  them,  and 
a  horrible  scene  of  slaughter  ensued.  All  who  endeavoured  to 
resist  them  were  butchered,  even  the  pilot  was  thrown  over 
board  ;  at  length,  finding  no  more  resistance,  they  plundered 
the  passengers  of  the  money  they  had  upon  them,  took  every 
article  of  value  they  could  find,  and,  loaded  with  their  booty, 
they  steered  the  vessel  to  a  deserted  spot  on  the  shore,  where 
they  landed. 

I  had  been  informed  of  this  nefarious  enterprise,  and 
went  with  haste  to  the  spot  where  they  landed.  Unfortunately 
I  arrived  too  late,  for  they  had  already  escaped  to  the 
mountains,  after  they  had  divided  the  spoil.  Notwithstanding 
the  slight  hope  I  entertained  of  overtaking  them,  I  set  off  in 
pursuit,  and  after  a  long  march  I  met  an  Indian,  who  in 
formed  me  that  one  of  the  bandits,  not  so  good  a  walker  as  the 
others,  was  not  far  off,  and  that  if  I  and  my  guards  ran  quickly 
we  might  overtake  him.  Alila  was  the  best  runner — he  was 
as  fleet  as  a  deer;  so  I  told  him  :  "  Set  out,  Alila,  and  bring 
me  that  runaway,  either  dead  or  alive." 


ALILA   IS   WOUNDED.  161 

My  brave  lieutenant,  to  be  less  encumbered  in  the  race, 
left  his  gun  with  us,  took  a  long  spear,  and  went  off.  Shortly 
after  we  had  lost  sight  of  him  we  heard  the  report  of  fire 
arms  ;  we  knew  it  must  be  the  brigand  firing  upon  Alila, 
and  we  all  thought  that  he  was  killed  or  wounded.  We 
hastened  forward,  in  the  hopes  of  arriving  in  time  to  render 
him  assistance  ;  but  we  soon  saw  him  coming  leisurely  towards 
us  ;  his  face  and  clothes  were  covered  with  blood,  the  spear  in 
his  right  hand,  and  in  his  left  the  hideous  head  of  the  bandit, 
which  he  carried  by  the  hair — as  Judith  had  formerly  done 
with  that  of  Holophernes.  But  my  poor  Alila  was  wounded, 
and  my  first  care  was  to  examine  if  the  wound  was  serious. 
When  I  was  satisfied  it  was  not  dangerous,  I  asked  him  for 
the  details  of  his  combat. 

"  Master,"  said  he  to  me,  "  shortly  after  I  left  you  I  per 
ceived  the  bandit ;  he  saw  me  also,  and  ran  off  as  quickly  as  ho 
could,  but  I  ran  faster  than  he,  and  was  soon  close  to  him. 
When  he  lost  all  hopes  of  escaping  he  turned  upon  me  and 
presented  his  pistol;  I  was  not  alarmed,  and  advanced  towards 
him  at  all  risk.  The  pistol  was  fired,  and  I  felt  myself 
wounded  in  the  face ;  this  wound  did  not  stop  me.  I  darted  at 
him  and  pierced  his  body  with  my  spear ;  but,  as  he  was  too 
heavy  for  me  to  bring  to  you,  I  cut  off  his  head,  and  here  it  is." 

When  I  had  congratulated  Alila  upon  his  success,  I  ex 
amined  his  wound,  and  found  that  a  fragment  of  a  ball,  cut 
into  four  pieces,  had  hit  him  upon  the  cheek,  and  was  flattened 
on  the  bone.  I  extracted  it,  and  a  speedy  cure  followed. 

Now,  as  I  have  almost  terminated,  and  shall  not  return  to, 
my  numerous  adventures  with  the  bandits,  I  resume  the  con 
tinuation  of  my  ordinary  life  at  Jala-Jala. 


fifes   i       •      to. 


Tlie  House  ol  La  1'lunthe. 


CHAPTEE    VIII. 

Death  of  my  Brother  Robert — Our  Party  at  Jala-Jala — Illness  and  Last  Moments 
of  my  Friend  Bermigan — Recovery  and  Departure  for  France  of  Lafond — 
Joachim  Balthazard:  his  Eccentricity — Tremendous  Gale  of  Wind — Narrow 
Escape  in  Crossing  the  Lake — Safe  Return  to  Jala-Jala — Destruction  of  my 
House  and  the  Village  by  a  Typhoon — Rendezvous  with  a  Bandit — Ineffectual 
Attempts  to  Reform  Him — His  Death — Journey  to  Tapuzi — Its  Inaccessibility 
— Government  of  the  Tapuzians — Morality  and  Religious  Character  of  their 
Chief — Their  Curiosity  at  Beholding  a  White  Man — Former  Wickedness  and 
Divine  Punishment — We  bid  Adieu  to  the  Tapuzians,  and  Return  to  Jala-Jala. 

A  T  this  period  a  sad  event  plunged  my  house  into  mourning. 
**•  Letters  from  my  family  announced  to  me  that  my  brother 
Robert  had  returned  from  Porto-Rico,  but  that  soon  after  a 
serious  illness  had  carried  him  to  the  grave.  He  died  in  the 
arms  of  my  mother  and  sisters,  in  the  small  house  of  La 
Planche,  where,  as  I  said  before,  \ve  had  all  been  brought  up. 


DOMESTIC    AFFLICTIONS.  163 

My  excellent  Anna,  wept  with  us,  and  exerted  every  means 
that  interesting  affection  could  suggest  to  alleviate  the  grief  my 
brother  Henry  and  myself  experienced  from  this  melancholy 
bereavement.  A  few  months  afterwards  a  new  source  of  sorrow 
fell  to  our  lot.  Our  little  social  party  at  Jala-Jala  consisted 
of  my  sister-in-law ;  of  Delaunay,  a  young  man  from  St.  Malo, 
who  had  come  from  Bourbon  to  establish  at  Manilla  some 
manufactories  for  baking  sugar;  of  Bermigan,  a  young  Spaniard; 
and  my  friend,  Captain  Gabriel  Lafond,  like  myself,  from 
Nantes.  He  had  come  to  the  Philippine  islands  on  board  the 
Fits  de  France,  had  passed  some  years  in  South  America,  and 
had  occupied  several  places  of  distinction  in  the  navy,  as 
captain-commandant,  until  at  last,  after  many  adventures  and 
vicissitudes,  he  came  with  a  small  fortune  to  Manilla,  where  he 
bought  a  vessel,  and  set  sail  for  the  Pacific  Ocean,  to  fish  for 
the  balati  or  sea- worm.  He  had  scarcely  reached  the  island 
of  Tongatabou  when  the  vessel  struck  upon  the  rocks  that 
surround  this  island ;  he  saved  himself  by  swimming  to  the 
shore,  having  lost  everything.  From  thence  he  went  to  the 
Marianne  islands,  where  grief  and  bad  food  caused  him  to  fall 
ill ;  he  returned  to  Manilla,  labouring  under  dysentry.  I  had 
him  brought  to  my  house,  and  whilst  there  attended  to  him 
with  all  the  care  a  fellow-countryman  and  a  good  friend 
endowed  with  sterling  and  amiable  qualities,  deserved.  Our 
evenings  were  spent  in  amusing  and  instructive  conversation. 
As  we  had  all  travelled  a  great  deal,  each  had  somethimg  to 
relate.  During  the  day  the  invalids  kept  company  with  the 
ladies,  while  my  brother  and  myself  followed  our  respective 
avocations.  But  soon,  alas !  a  shocking  event  disturbed  the 
calm  that  reigned  at  Jala-Jala.  Bermigan  fell  so  dangerously 
ill,  that  a  few  days  sufficed  to  convince  me  there  was  no  hope 


164  TWENTY    YEAHS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

of  saving  him.  I  shall  never  forget  the  fatal  night :  we  were 
all  assembled  in  the  drawing-room,  grief  and  consternation 
were  in  every  heart  and  pourtrayed  in  every  countenance ;  in  an 
adjoining  room  a  few  short  steps  from  us,  we  heard  the  death- 
rattle  of  poor  Bermigan,  who  had  only  a  few  minutes  to  live. 
My  excellent  friend,  Lafond,  whom  sickness  had  reduced 
almost  to  the  last  stage,  broke  silence,  and  said:  "Well! 
poor  Bermigan  goes  to-day,  and  in  a  few  days,  perhaps  to 
morrow,  it  will  be  my  turn.  Just  see  !  my  dear  Don  Pablo  ; 
I  may  almost  say  that  I  no  longer  exist.  Look  at  my  feet — 
my  body !  I  am  &  mere  skeleton ;  I  can  scarcely  take  any 
food.  Ah  !  it  is  better  to  be  dead  than  live  like  this !  " 

I  was  so  persuaded  that  his  forebodings  would  not  be  de 
layed  in  being  realized,  that  I  scarcely  dared  to  utter  the 
smallest  consolation  or  any  hopes.  Who  could  then  have  told 
me  that  he  and  I  alone  were  to  survive  all  those  who  sur 
rounded  us,  full  of  life  and  health  ?  But,  alas !  let  us  not  here 
anticipate  future  events. 

Poor  Bermigan  breathed  his  last.  Our  house  at  Jala- 
Jala  was  no  longer  untouched  by  the  hand  of  Death — a  human 
being  had  expired  therein ;  and  on  the  following  day,  in  sadness 
and  silence,  we  all  proceeded  to  the  cemetery,  to  inter  the  body 
of  our  friend,  and  to  render  him  the  last  proofs  of  our  respect. 
The  body  was  laid  at  the  foot  of  a  large  cross,  which  is  placed 
in  the  centre  of  the  grave-yard.  For  many  days  sadness  and 
silence  prevailed  in  our  home  at  Jala-Jala. 

Some  time  afterwards  I  had  the  gratification  to  see  the 
efforts  I  employed  for  my  friend  Lafond  were  successful.  By 
means  of  the  strong  remedies  I  administered  his  health  was 
speedily  restored,  his  appetite  returned,  and  he  was  soon  able 
to  set  sail  for  France.  He  is  now  residing  in  Paris,  married 


JOACniM    BALTHAZARD — HIS    ECCENTEICITY.  165 

to  a  woman  possessed  of  every  quality  necessary  to  make  a 
man  happy,  and  is  the  father  of  three  children.  Holding  an 
honourable  position,  and  enjoying  public  esteem,  he  has  never 
forgotten  the  six  months  he  spent  at  Jala-Jala,  for  ingratitude 
never  sullied  his  noble,  loving,  and  devoted  heart.  A  sincere 
attachment  still  subsists  between  us,  and  I  am  happy  thus  to 
assure  him  that  he  is,  and  ever  will  be,  to  me  a  valued  friend.* 

As  I  have  now  mentioned  several  persons  who  resided  for 
some  time  at  Jala-Jala,  I  must  not  forget  one  of  my  colonists, 
Joachim  Balthazard,  a  native  of  Marseilles,  as  eccentric  a  man 
as  I  have  ever  known.  When  Joachim  was  young,  he  set  sail 
from  Marseilles.  When  he  arrived  at  Bourbon,  his  name  not 
being  on  the  crew's  list,  he  was  arrested,  and  put  on  board  the 
Astrolabe,  which  was  then  making  a  voyage  round  the  world. 
He  deserted  at  the  Marianne  islands,  and  came  to  the  Philip 
pines  in  the  greatest  distress,  and  addressed  himself  to  some 
good  friars,  in  order,  as  he  said,  to  effect  his  conversion 
and  his  salvation.  He  lived  among  them,  and  at  their  ex 
pense,  for  nearly  two  years  ;  afterwards  he  opened  a  coffee 
house  at  Manilla,  and  spent  in  pleasure  and  debauchery  a  large 
sum  of  money  that  a  fellow-countryman  and  I  had  advanced  him. 
He  afterwards  built  upon  my  grounds  a  large  straw  edifice,  that 
had  more  the  appearance  of  a  huge  magazine  than  of  a  house. 
There  he  kept  a  kind  of  seraglio,  adopted  all  the  children 
which  his  numerous  wives  gave  him,  and,  with  his  own  family, 
made  his  house  not  unlike  a  mutual  school.  Whenever  he  was 
weary  of  either  of  his  wives  he  called  one  of  his  workmen, 
saying  to  him  in  the  most  serious  manner : 

"There  is  a  wife  that   I  give  you;  be  a  good  husband, 
treat  her  well :  and  you,  woman,  this  is  your  husband,  te  faith 
*  See  Appendix,  No.  1. 


166  TWENTx    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

ful  to  him.    Go,  may  God  bless  you !    Be  off,  and  let  me  never 
see  you  again." 

He  was  generally  without  a  farthing,  or  all  of  a  sudden 
rich  with  heavy  sums,  that  were  spent  in  a  few  days.  He 
borrowed  from  everybody,  and  never  paid  them  back ;  he  lived 
like  a  real  Indian,  and  was  as  cowardly  as  a  half-drowned 
chicken.  His  light-coloured  hair,  sallow  complexion,  and  beard 
less  face,  gave  him  the  nick-name  among  the  Indians  of 
Onela-Dogou,  Tagalese  words,  that  signify  "one  who  has  no 
blood." 

As  I  was  one  day  crossing  over  the  lake  in  a  small  canoe 
with  him  and  two  Indians,  we  were  assailed  by  one  of  those 
extraordinary  gales  of  wind,  which  in  the  Chinese  seas  are  called 
Tay-Foung  (typhoon).  These  gales  of  wind,  though  extremely 
rare,  are  tremendous.  The  sky  is  covered  with  the  heaviest 
clouds ;  the  rain  pours  in  torrents ;  the  day-light  disappears, 
almost  as  much  as  in  the  densest  fog;  and  the  wind  blows  with 
such  fury  that  it  throws  down  everything  it  reaches  in  its 
course.* 

We  were  in  our  canoe ;  the  wind  had  scarcely  begun  to 
"blow  with  all  its  violence  than  Balthazard  commenced  to 
invoke  all  the  saints  in  Paradise.  Almost  in  despair,  he  cried 
out  aloud 

44  Oh,  God  !  have  mercy  upon  me,  a  wretched  sinner  !  Grant 
me  the  grace  that  I  may  have  an  opportunity  of  confessing  my 
sins,  and  of  receiving  absolution  !" 

All  these  lamentations  and  appeals  served  only  to  frighten 
my  two  Indians,  and  most  undoubtedly  our  position  was  critical 
enough  for  us  to  endeavour  to  retain  our  presence  of  mind,  so 

*  I  experienced  two  such  ^ales  during  my  residence,  at  Jala-Jala — the 
one  I  am  now  speaking  of,  and  another  to  which  I  shall  afterwards  allude. 


TREMENDOUS    GALE    OF    WIND.  16'* 

as  to  attend  to  the  management  of  our  little  boat,  which  from 
one  moment  to  another  was  in  danger  of  being  swam^od.     How 
ever,  I  was  certain  that,  being  provided  with  two  large  beams 
of  bamboos,  it  could  keep  its  position  in  the  current  between 
two   waters  and  not  capsize,  if  we  had   the  precaution  and 
strength  to  scud  before  the  wind,  and  not  turn  the  side  to  a 
wave,  for   in  such  case  we   should   all   have  been   drowned. 
What  I  foresaw,  happened.     A  wave  burst  upon  us ;  for  a  few 
minutes  we  were  plunged  iii  the  deep,  but  when  the  wave 
passed  over  we  came  above  water.      Our  canoe  was  swamped 
between  the  currents,  but  we  did  not  abandon  it ;  we  put  our. 
legs  under  the  seats,  and  held  them  fast ;  the  half  of  our  body 
was  above  water.     But  every  time  that  a  wave  came  towards 
us  it  passed  over  our  heads,  and  then  went   off,  giving   us 
time  to  breathe  until  another  wave  came  and  dashed  over  us. 
Every  three  or  four  minutes  the  same  manoeuvring  took  place. 
My  Indians  and  I  used  all  our  strength  and  skill  to  scud  on 
before  the  wind.     Balthazard  had  ceased  his  lamentations ;  we 
all  kept  silence;  from  time  to  time  I  only  uttered  these  words  : 
"-Take  courage,  boys,  we  shall  reach  the  shore." 
Our  position  then  became  much  worse,  for  night  set  in. 
The  rain  continued  to  pour  in  torrents,  the  wind  increased  in 
fuiy.     From  time  to  time  we  received  gome  light  from  globes 
of  fire,  like  what  the  sailors  call  "  Saint  Elmo's  fire."     While 
these    rays  of  light  continued  I  looked  as  far  around  me  as  I 
could,  and  only  perceived  an  immense  body  of  water  in  furious 
agitation.     For  nearly  two  hours  we  were  tossed  about  by  the 
waves  that  drove  us  towards  the  beach,  and,  at  a  moment  when 
we  least  expected  it,  we  found  ourselves  driven  into  the  midst  of 
an  extensive  grove  of  lofty  bamboos.     I  then  knew  that  we  were 
over  the  land,  and  that  the  lake  had  inundated  the  country  for 


168  TWENTY   YEARS    IN   THE   PHILIPPINES. 

several  miles  around.  We  were  up  to  our  breasts  in  water, 
and  it  was  not  in  our  power  to  pass  through  the  inundation. 
The  darkness  was  too  great  to  allow  us  to  go  in  any  direction  ; 
our  canoe  was  no  longer  of  any  use  to  us,  as  it  was  entangled 
among  the  bamboos.  We  climbed  up  the  trees  as  well  as  we 
could,  even  to  the  height  where  the  bamboos  end  in  sharp 
points ;  our  bodies  were  much  torn  by  the  sharp  thorns  grow 
ing  on  the  small  branches ;  the  rain  continued  to  pour  without 
intermission ;  the  wind  still  blowed,  and  each  gust  caused  the 
bamboos  to  bend,  the  flexible  branches  of  which  tore  our 
bodies  and  faces.  I  have  suffered  a  great  deal  in  the  course 
of  my  life,  but  no  night  ever  appeared  to  me  so  long  and  cruel  as 
this  1  Joachim  Balthazard  then  recovered  his  speech,  and,  in  a 
trembling,  broken  voice,  said  to  me  : 

"  Ah  !  Don  Pablo,  do  write  I  beg  of  you,  to  my  mother, 
and  tell  her  the  tragical  end  of  her  son !" 

I  could  not  help  answering  him  :  "You  cowardly  rascal! 
Do  you  think,  then,  that  I  am  more  at  my  ease  than  you  are  ? 
Hold  your  tongue,  otherwise  I  shall  make  you  turn  diver,  so 
that  I  may  never  hear  you  again."  Poor  Joachim  then  knew 
what  to  do,  and  did  not  utter  a  word  ;  only  from  time  to  time 
he  made  us  aware  of  his  trouble  by  his  deep  moans. 

The  wind,  which  was  blowing  from  the  north-west,  towards 
four  o'clock  in  the  morning  suddenly  changed  to  the  east, 
and  shortly  afterwards  gave  over.  It  was  almost  daylight : 
we  were  saved.  We  could  at  last  see  one  another ;  all  four 
of  us  looked  in  a  wretched  condition ;  our  clothes  being  torn 
to  pieces.  Our  bodies  were  lacerated,  and  covered  with  deep 
scratches.  The  cold  had  penetrated  into  the  very  marrow  of 
our  bones,  and  the  long  bath  we  had  taken  had  wrinkled  the 
skin ;  we  looked  just  like  drowned  people  taken  out  of  the 


OUR   MIRACULOUS   ESCAPE    FROM   DROWNING.  169 

water,  where  they  had  been  for  some  hours.  Nevertheless, 
crippled  as  we  were,  we  slipped  down  from  the  bamboos,  and 
were  soon  bathing  in  the  waters  of  the  lake.  The  effect 
was  healthful  and  agreeable :  it  seemed  like  a  warm  bath  at 
30  degrees  of  heat. 

We  were  quite  restored  by  this  mild  temperature.  We  got 
our  canoe  out  of  the  grove,  where  fortunately  it  had  been  caught 
so  fast  that  neither  the  waves  nor  the  currents  could  drive  it 
any  farther.  We  again  set  it  afloat,  and  soon  succeeded  in 
reaching  an  Indian  hut,  where  we  dried  ourselves,  and  recruited 
our  strength.  Calm  was  now  re-established  ;  the  sun  shone  in 
all  its  splendour,  but  everywhere  traces  of  the  typhoon  were 
visible.  In  the  course  of  the  day  we  reached  Jala-Jala,  where 
our  arrival  caused  great  joy.  They  knew  at  home  that  I  was 
on  the  lake,  and  everything  led  them  to  presume  that  I  had 
perished.  My  good  and  dear  Anna  threw  herself  into  my 
arms  in  tears;  she  had  been  in  such  anxiety  for  my  safety, 
that  for  some  moments  the  tears  that  flowed  down  her  cheeks 
alone  expressed  her  joy  at  again  seeing  me. 

Balthazard  returned  to  his  seraglio.  As  long  as  he  was 
under  my  protection  the  Indians  respected  him,  but  after  my 
departure  from  Jala-Jala  he  was  assassinated ;  and  all  those 
who  knew  him  agreed  that  he  had  deserved  his  fate  for  more 
than  one  cause. 

As  I  have  mentioned  this  typhoon,  I  am  going  to  an 
ticipate  a  little,  in  describing,  as  briefly  as  possible,  a  still  more 
frightful  one  than  that  which  I  experienced  in  my  slight  canoe 
and  in  the  bamboo  grove. 

I  had  just  completed  some  pretty  baths  upon  the  lake 
opposite  my  house.  I  was  quite  satisfied  and  proud  of  pro 
curing  this  new  pleasure  for  my  wife.  On  the  very  day  that 

H 


170  TWENTY    YEAKS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES 

the  Indians  had  added  the  last  ornaments  to  them,  towards 
evening  a  western  wind  began  to  blow  furiously ;  by  degrees 
the  waters  of  the  lake  became  agitated,  and  shortly  we  no  longer 
doubted  but  that  we  were  going  to  have  a  typhoon. 

My  brother  and  I  stayed  some  time  examining,  through 
the  panes  of  glass,  whether  the  baths  would  resist  the  strength 
of  the  wind,  but  in  a  heavy  squall  my  poor  edifice  disappeared 
like  a  castle  made  of  cards.  We  withdrew  from  the  window, 
and  luckily  too,  for  a  heavier  squall  than  that  which  had 
destroyed  the  baths  burst  in  the  windows  that  faced  to  the 
•west.  The  wind  drove  through  the  house,  and  opened  a  way 
for  itself,  by  throwing  down  all  the  wall  over  the  entrance-door. 
The  lake  was  so  agitated  that  the  waves  went  over  my  house, 
and  inundated  all  the  apartments.  We  were  not  able  to  remain 
there  any  longer.  By  assisting  each  other,  my  wife,  my 
brother,  a  young  Frenchman  who  was  then  staying  at  Jala- 
Jala,  and  myself,  succeeded  in  reaching  a  room  on  the  ground- 
floor  ;  the  light  came  from  a  very  small  window ;  there,  in 
almost  total  darkness,  we  spent  the  greater  part  of  the  night, 
my  brother  and  I  leaning  our  shoulders  against  the  window, 
opposing  with  all  our  strength  that  of  the  wind,  which  threat 
ened  to  force  it  in.  In  this  small  room  there  were  several 
jars  of  brandy  :  my  excellent  Anna  poured  some  into  the 
hollow  of  her  hand,  and  gave  it  us  to  drink,  to  support  our 
strength  and  to  warm  us.  At  break  of  day  the  wind  ceased, 
and  calm  re-appeared.  All  the  furniture  and  decorations  of 
my  house  were  broken  and  shattered  to  pieces ;  all  the  rooms 
were  inundated,  and  the  store-rooms  were  full  of  sand,  carried 
there  by  the  waters  of  the  lake.  Soon  my  house  became  an 
asylum  for  my  colonists,  who  had  all  spent  a  wretched  night, 
and  were  without  shelter. 


DESTRUCTION    OF    THE    VILLAGE  171 

The  sun  soon  shone  splendidly ;  the  sky  was  cloudless  ; 
but  my  sadness  was  extreme  when,  from  a  window,  I  examined 
the  disasters  produced  by  the  typhoon.  There  was  no  village ! 
Every  hut  was  levelled  to  the  ground.  The  church  was  thrown 
down — my  store-houses,  my  sugar  factory,  were  entirely  de 
stroyed  ;  there  was  then  nothing  more  than  heaps  of  ruins. 
My  fine  cane-fields  were  altogether  destroyed,  and  the  country, 
which  previously  had  appeared  so  beautiful,  seemed  as  if 
it  had  passed  through  a  long  wintry  season.  There  was 
no  longer  any  verdure  to  be  seen  ;  the  trees  were  entirely  leaf 
less,  with  their  boughs  broken,  and  portions  of  the  wood  were 
entirely  torn  down ;  and  all  this  devastation  had  taken  place 
within  a  few  hours.  During  that  and  the  following  day  the 
lake  threw  up,  upon  the  shore,  the  bodies  of  several  unfortu 
nate  Indians  who  had  perished.  The  first  care  of  Padre 
Miguel  was  to  bury  the  dead,  and  for  a  long  time  afterwards 
there  were  to  be  seen,  in  the  grave-yard  of  Jala-Jala,  crosses, 
with  the  inscription  :  "An  unknown  who  died  during  the  typhoon.'' 
My  Indians  began  immediately  to  rebuild  their  huts,  and  I,  as 
far  as  possible,  to  repair  my  disasters. 

The  fertile  nature  of  the  Philippine  islands  speedily  effaced 
the  aspect  of  mourning  which  it  had  assumed.  In  less  than 
eight  days  the  trees  were  completely  covered  with  new  leaves, 
and  exhibited  themselves  as  in  a  brilliant  summer,  after  the 
frightful  winter  had  passed  over.  The  typhoon  had  embraced 
a  diameter  of  about  two  leagues,  and,  like  a  violent  hurricane, 
had  upset  and  shattered  everything  it  met  during  its  course. 

But  enough  of  disasters :  I  return  to  the  epoch  when  the 
death  of  poor  Bermigan  caused  affliction  to  us  all. 

All  was  prosperity  in  my  dwelling  :  my  Indians  were  happy  ; 
the  population  of  Jala- Jala  increased  every  day ;  I  was  beloved 


172  TWENTY   YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

and  respected.  I  had  rendered  great  service  to  the  Spanish 
government  by  the  incessant  warfare  I  carried  on  against  the 
bandits ;  and  I  may  say  that  even  amongst  them  I  enjoyed  a 
high  reputation.  They  looked  upon  me,  indeed,  as  their  enemy, 
but  in  the  light  of  a  brave  enemy,  incapable  of  committing 
any  act  of  baseness  against  them,  and  who  carried  on  an  honour 
able  warfare ;  and  the  Indian  character  was  so  well  known  to 
me,  that  I  did  not  fear  they  would  play  me  any  low  tricks, 
or  would  treacherously  attack  me.  Such  was  my  conviction, 
that  around  my  house  I  was  never  accompanied  by  day  or  by 
night.  I  traversed  without  fear  all  the  forests  and  mountains, 
and  I  often  even  treated  with  these  honourable  bandits,  as  one 
power  does  with  another,  by  not  disdaining  the  invitations 
sometimes  sent  to  me  to  come  to  a  certain  place,  where,  with 
out  fear  of  surprise,  they  could  consult  me,  or  even  invoke  my 
assistance.  This  sort  of  rendezvous  was  always  held  in  the 
night,  and  in  very  lonely  places.  On  their  side,  as  well  as  on 
mine,  a  promise  given  of  not  doing  any  injury  to  each  other 
was  religiously  observed.  In  these  nocturnal  conversations, 
held  without  witnesses,  I  often  brought  back  to  a  life  of  peace 
mistaken  men,  whom  the  turbulence  of  youth  had  thrown  into 
a  series  of  crimes,  which  the  laws  would  have  visited  with 
most  severe  punishment.  Sometimes,  however,  I  failed  in  my 
attempts,  and  especially  when  I  had  to  do  with  proud  and  un- 
tameable  characters,  such  as  are  to  be  found  among  men  who 
never  have  had  any  other  guide  but  natural  instinct.  One 
day,  among  others,  I  received  a  letter  from  a  half-breed,  a 
great  criminal,  who  infested  the  neighbouring  province  of 
Laguna ;  he  told  me  that  he  wished  to  see  me,  and  begged  me 
to  come  alone  in  the  middle  of  the  night  to  a  wild  spot,  where 
he  would  also  come  alone:  I  did  not  hesitate  to  go  to  the 


DEATH    OF   A   BANDIT.  173 

place  appointed.  I  found  him  there  as  he  had  promised  me. 
He  told  me  that  he  wished  to  change  his  mode  of  life,  and  to 
dwell  on  my  estate.  He  added,  that  he  had  never  committed 
any  crime  against  the  Spaniards,  hut  only  against  the  Indians 
and  the  half-breeds.  It  would  have  been  impossible  for  me  to 
have  received  him  without  compromising  myself.  I  proposed 
to  place  him  in  the  house  of  a  friar,  where  he  might  remain 
concealed  for  several  years,  until  his  crimes  were  forgotten, 
and  then  he  could  enter  into  society.  After  a  moment's  re 
flection,  he  replied : 

"  No,  that  would  be  to  lose  mv  liberty.  To  live  as  a  slave! 
I  would  prefer  to  die." 

I  then  proposed  to  him  to  go  to  Tapuzi,  a  place  where 
the  bandits,  when  hotly  pursued,  were  enabled  to  conceal  them 
selves  with  impunity. — (I  shall  very  soon  have  occasion  to 
speak  of  this  village.) — The  half-breed,  with  an  insignificant 
gesture,  replied : 

"  No ;  the  person  I  wish  to  take  with  me  would  not  come 
there.  You  can  do  nothing  for  me,  adieu  !" 

He  then  pressed  my  hand,  and  we  separated.  Some  days 
afterwards,  a  hut  in  which  he  was  seen,  near  Manilla,  was  sur 
rounded  by  the  troops  of  the  line.  The  bandit  then  caused 
the  owners  of  the  hut  to  quit  it,  and  when  he  saw  them  out  of 
danger  he  took  his  carabine  and  began  firing  upon  the  soldiers, 
who  on  their  side  returned  the  attack  on  the  hut.  When 
it  was  riddled  with  balls,  and  the  bandit  had  ceased  to  de 
fend  himself,  a  soldier  approached  the  hut  and  set  fire  to  it, 
so  great  was  the  fear  they  entertained  of  then  finding  him 
alive. 

These  nocturnal  interviews  having  led  me  to  mention 
Tapuzi,  I  cannot  refrain  from  dedicating  a  few  lines  to  this 


JT4  TWENTY   YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

remarkable  retreat,  where  men,  when  proscribed  by  the  law, 
live  together  in  a  sort  of  accord  and  union  of  a  most  extra 
ordinary  kind. 

Tapuzi,*  which  in  the  Tagal  language,  signifies  "  end  of 
the  world,"  is  a  little  village,  situate  in  the  interior  of  the 
mountains,  nearly  twenty-five  leagues  from  Jala-Jala.  It  was 
formed  there  by  bandits  and  men  who  had  escaped  from  the 
galleys,  who  live  in  liberty,  govern  themselves,  and  are  alto 
gether,  on  account  of  the  inaccessible  position  which  they 
occupy,  safe  from  any  pursuit  which  could  be  ordered  against 
them  by  the  Spanish  government.  I  had  often  heard  this 
singular  village  mentioned,  but  I  had  never  met  anyone  who 
had  visited  it,  or  could  give  me  any  positive  details  relative  to 
it.  One  day,  therefore,  I  resolved  to  go  thither  myself.  I 
stated  my  intention  to  my  lieutenant,  who  said : 

"  Master,  I  shall  find  there,  no  doubt,  some  of  my  old 
comrades,  and  then  we  shall  have  nothing  to  fear." 

Three  of  us  set  out  together,  under  the  pretext  of  quite  a 
different  journey.  For  two  days  we  walked  in  the  midst  of 
mountains,  by  paths  almost  impracticable.  The  third  day 
we  reached  a  torrent,  the  bed  of  which  was  blocked  up  by 
enormous  stones.  This  ravine  was  the  only  road  by  which  we 
could  get  to  Tapuzi ;  it  was  the  natural  and  impregnable  ram 
part  which  defended  the  village  against  the  attack  of  the  Spanish 
troops.  My  lieutenant  had  just  told  me  : 

"Look,  master,  above  your  head.  None  but  the  inhabit 
ants  of  Tapuzi  know  the  paths  which  lead  to  the  top  of  the 
mountains.  All  along  the  length  of  the  ravine  they  have  placed 
enormous  stones,  that  they  have  only  to  push  to  throw  them 

*  Tapuzi  is  situated  in  the  mountains  of  Limutan.  Limntan  is  a 
Tagalese  word,  signifying  "altogether forgotten." 


JOURNEY   TO   TAPUZI.  175 

down  upon  those  who  should  come  to  attack  them ;  a  whole 
army  could  not  penetrate  among  them,  if  they  wished  to  give 
any  opposition." 

I  clearly  saw  that  we  were  not  in  a  very  agreeable  position, 
and  against  which,  if  the  Tapuzians  should  consider  us  as 
enemies,  we  could  oppose  no  defence.  But  we  were  involved 
in  it,  and  there  was  no  means  of  retreating,  it  was  absolutely 
necessary  to  go  to  Tapuzi.  We  had  been  already  more  than 
an  hour  in  this  ravine  when  an  immense  block  of  stone  fell 
down  perpendicularly,  and  broke  into  pieces  only  twenty  yards 
before  us :  it  was  a  warning.  We  stopped,  laid  dowrn  our 
arms,  and  sat  down.  Perhaps  just  such  another  block  as 
what  had  fallen  was  hanging  over  our  heads,  ready  to  crush 
us  to  pieces.  We  heard  a  scream  near  us.  I  told  my  lieu 
tenant  to  proceed  alone  towards  the  direction  it  came  from.  In 
a  few  minutes  he  returned,  accompanied  by  two  Indians,  who, 
confident  in  my  pacific  intentions  towards  them,  came  to  fetch 
us,  to  take  us  to  the  village.  We  proceeded  cheerfully  on  the 
remainder  of  the  road  until  we  reached  the  spot  where  ended 
the  sort  of  funnel  we  were  walking  in.  Upon  this  height  there 
was  to  be  seen  a  plain,  some  miles  in  circumference,  sur 
rounded  by  high  mountains.  The  part  that  we  were  in  was 
stopped  up  by  enormous  blocks  of  rocks,  lying  one  on  the  top 
of  the  other.  From  behind  stretched  forth  an  abrupt  threat 
ening  mountain,  without  any  signs  of  vegetation — not  unlike  an 
ancient  European  fortress,  that  some  magical  power  had  raised 
in  the  midst  of  the  high  mountains  that  commanded  it.  With 
one  glance  I  beheld  the  whole  of  the  site  we  were  crossing, 
and  at  the  same  time  reflected  upon  the  great  varieties  nature 
presents  to  our  view.  We  soon  reached  the  long  wished- 
for  object  of  our  journey — the  village  of  Tapuzi.  It  lies  at  the 


J76  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

extreme  end  of  a  plain,  composed  of  about  sixty  thatched  huts, 
similar  to  those  of  the  Indians.  The  inhabitants  were  all  at 
their  windows,  to  witness  our  arrival.  Our  guides  conducted 
us  to  their  chief,  or  Matanda-sanayon,  a  fine  old  man,  from  the 
look  of  his  face  about  eighty  years  of  age.  He  bowed  affably 
to  us,  and  addressed  himself  to  me. 

"  How  are  you  come  here — as  a  friend,  or  is  it  curiosity— 
or  do  the  cruel  laws  of  the  Spaniards  perhaps  compel  you  to 
seek  refuge  among  us  ?  If  such  is  the  case,  you  are  welcome  ; 
you  will  find  us  brothers." 

"  No,"  I  said  to  him ;  "  we  do  not  come  to  stay  among  you.  1 
am  your  neighbour,  and  lord  of  Jala- Jala.  I  am  come  to  see 
you,  to  offer  you  my  friendship,  and  to  ask  yours." 

At  the  name  Jala-Jala  the  old  man  looked  quite  astonished ; 
he  then  said  to  me : 

14  It  is  a  long  time  since  I  heard  you  spoken  of  as  an  agent 
of  the  government  for  pursuing  unfortunate  men,  but  I  have 
heard  also  that  you  fulfilled  your  mission  with  much  kindness, 
and  that  often  you  were  their  protector,  so  be  welcome." 

After  this  first  recognition  they  presented  us  some  mill 
and  some  kidney  potatoes,  and  during  our  repast  the  old  mar 
conversed  freely  with  me. 

"  Several  years  ago,"  said  he  to  me,  "at  a  period  I  cannot 
recollect,  some  men  came  to  live  in  Tapuzi.  The  peace  and 
safety  they  enjoyed  made  others  imitate  their  example,  who 
sought  like  themselves  to  avoid  the  punishment  of  some  faults 
they  had  committed.  We  soon  saw  fathers  of  families,  with 
their  wives  and  children  flock  hither;  this  was  the  foundation 
of  the  small  government  that  you  see.  Now  here  almost  all 
is  iii  common ;  some  fields  of  kidney  potatoes  or  Indian  corn, 
and  hunting,  suffice  for  us ;  he  who  possesses  anything  gives 


GOVERNMENT    OF    THE    TAPUZIANS. 

to  him  who  has  nothing  Almost  all  our  clothing  is  knitted  and 
woven  by  our  wives ;  the  abaca,  or  vegetable  silk,  from  the  forest 
supplies  us  the  thread  that  is  necessary  ;  we  do  not  know  what 
money  is,  we  do  not  require  any.  Here  there  is  no  ambition ; 
each  one  is  certain  of  not  suffering  from  hunger.  From  time  to 
time  strangers  come  to  visit  us.  If  they  are  willing  to  submit 
to  our  laws,  they  remain  with  us ;  they  have  a  fortnight  of  pro 
bation  to  go  through  before  they  decide.  Our  laws  are  lenient 
and  indulgent.  We  have  not  forgotten  the  religion  of  our 
forefathers,  and  God  no  doubt  will  forgive  me  my  first  faults, 
on  account  of  my  efforts  for  so  many  years  to  promote  his 
worship,  and  the  well-being  of  my  equals." 

"  But,"  said  I  to  him,  "  who  is  your  chief,  who  are  your 
judges  and  priests  ?" 

"  It  is  I,"  said  he,  "  who  fulfil  all  those  functions.  Formerly 
they  lived  like  savages  here.  I  was  young,  robust,  and  devoted 
to  all  my  brothers.  Their  chief  had  just  expired :  I  was  chosen 
to  replace  him.  I  then  took  care  to  do  nothing  but  what  was 
just,  and  conducive  to  the  happiness  of  those  who  confided  in  me. 
Until  then  they  had  devoted  but  little  attention  to  religion :  I 
wished  to  put  my  people  in  mind  that  they  were  born  Christians. 
I  appointed  one  hour  every  Sunday  for  us  to  pray  together, 
and  I  have  invested  myself  with  all  the  attributes  of  a  minister 
of  the  Gospel.  I  celebrate  the  marriages,  I  pour  water  upon 
the  foreheads  of  the  infants,  and  I  offer  consolations  to  the 
dying.  In  my  youth,  I  was  a  chorister;  I  remembered  the 
church  ceremonies;  and  if  I  do  not  actually  possess  the 
necessary  attributes  for  the  functions  I  have  given  myself,  I 
practise  them  with  faith  and  love.  This  is  the  reason  I  trust 
that  my  good  intentions  will  obtain  my  forgiveness  from  Him 
who  is  the  Sovereign  Lord  of  all." 

H* 


178 


TWENTY   YEARS   IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 


During  the  whole  time  of  the  old  man's  conversation  I  was 
in  continual  admiration.  I  was  among  people  who  had  the 
reputation  of  living  in  the  greatest  licentiousness  as  thieves 
and  robbers.  Their  character  was  altogether  misunderstood. 
It  wasa  real,  great  phalanstery,  composed  of  brothers,  almost  all 
worthy  of  the  name.  Above  all  I  admired  this  fine  old  man,  who, 
with  moral  principles  and  simple  laws,  had  governed  them  for 
so  many  years.  On  the  other  hand,  what  an  example  that  was 
of  free  men  not  being  able  to  live  without  choosing  a  chief,  and 
bringing  one  another  back  to  the  practice  of  virtuous  actions ! 

I  explained  to  the  old  man  all  my  thoughts.  I  bestowed 
upon  him  a  thousand  praises  for  his  conduct,  and  assured  him 
that  the  Archbishop  of  Manilla  would  approve  all  the  religious 


Church  of  Pandacan,  tn  the 


M\a  of  Manilla. 


THEIB   CURIOSITY DIVINE    PUNISHMENT.  l79 

acts  he  performed  with  so  noble  an  object.  1  even  offered  to 
intercede  with  the  archbishop  in  his  behalf,  that  he  might 
send  a  pastor  to  assist  him.  But  he  replied  : 

"  No,  thank  you,  sir ;  never  speak  about  us.  We  should 
certainly  be  glad  to  have  a  minister  of  the  Gospel  here,  but 
soon,  under  his  influence,  we  should  be  subjected  to  the 
Spanish  government.  It  would  be  requisite  for  us  to  have 
money  to  pay  our  contributions.  Ambition  would  soon  creep 
in  amongst  us,  and  from  the  freedom  which  we  now  enjoy,  we 
should  gradually  sink  into  a  state  of  slavery,  and  should  no 
longer  be  happy.  Once  more  I  entreat  of  you,  do  not  speak 
of  us :  give  me  your  word  that  you  will  not." 

This  argument  appeared  so  just  to  me  that  I  acquiesced  to 
his  request.  I  again  gave  him  all  the  praise  he  deserved,  and 
promised  never  to  disturb  the  peace  of  the  inhabitants  of  his 
village  under  any  pretext  whatever. 

In  the  evening  we  received  visits  from  all  the  inhabitants, 
particularly  from  the  women  and  children,  who  all  had  an  im 
moderate  curiosity  to  see  a  white  man.  None  of  the  Tapuzian 
women  had  ever  been  out  of  their  village,  and  had  scarcely  ever 
lost  sight  of  their  huts ;  it  was  not,  therefore,  astonishing  that 
they  were  so  curious. 

The  next  day  I  went  round  the  plain,  and  visited  the  fields 
of  kidney  potatoes  and  Indian  corn,  the  principal  nourishment 
of  the  inhabitants.  The  old  chief  and  some  elderly  people 
accompanied  me.  When  we  reached  the  spot  where,  upon  the 
eve,  I  had  already  remarked  enormous  blocks  of  rock,  the  old 
man  paused  and  told  me : 

"Look  yonder,  Castilla.*  At  a  time  when  the  Tapuz/ans 

•  In  the  eyes  of  the  natives  of  Tagal  all  Europeans  are  Spaniards. 


180  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

were  without  religion,  and  lived  as  wild  beasts,  God  punished 
them.  Look  at  all  the  part  of  that  mountain  quite  stripped 
of  vegetation :  one  night,  during  a  tremendous  earthquake, 
that  mountain  split  in  two — one  part  swallowed  up  the  half 
of  the  village  that  then  stood  on  the  place  where  those  enormous 
rocks  are.  A  few  hundred  steps  further  on  all  would  have 
been  destroyed ;  there  would  no  longer  have  existed  a  single 
person  in  Tapuzi :  but  a  part  on  the  population  was  not  injured, 
and  came  and  settled  themselves  where  the  village  now  is. 
Since  then  we  pray  to  the  Almighty,  and  live  in  a  manner  so 
as  not  to  deserve  so  severe  a  chastisement  as  that  experienced 
by  the  wretched  victims  of  that  awful  night." 

The  conversation  and  society  of  this  old  man — I  might  say 
the  King  of  Tapuzi — was  most  interesting  to  me.  But  I  had  al 
ready  been  four  days  absent  from  Jala-Jula.  I  ordered  my 
lieutenant  to  prepare  for  our  departure.  We  bid  most  affec 
tionate  adieus  to  our  hosts,  and  set  off.  In  two  days  I  re 
turned  home,  quite  pleased  with  my  journey  and  the  good 
inhabitants  of  Tapuzi. 


Hunting  party  fit  Jala-JaJa. 


CHAPTER     IX. 

Suppression  of  War  between  two  Indian  Towns — Flourishing  Condition  of  Jala- 
Jala — Hospitality  to  Strangers — Field  Sports — Bat  and  Lizard  Shooting — 
Visit  to,  and  Description  of,  the  Isle  of  Socolme — Adventure  with  a  Cayman — 
Cormorants — We  Visit  Los  Banos — Monkey  Shooting — Expedition  to,  and 
Description  of,  the  Grotto  of  San-Mateo— Magnificent  aspect  of  the  Interior. 

T  FOUND  Anna  in  great  trouble,  not  only  on  account  of  my 

absence,  but  because,  on  the  previous  evening,  information 

had  been  received  that  the  inhabitants  of  the  two  largest  towns 


182  TWENTY   YE  ACS   IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

in  the  province  had,  as  it  was  stated,  declared  war  against  each 
other ;  the  most  courageous  amongst  them,  to  the  number  of 
three  or  four  hundred  on  each  side,  had  started  for  the  island  of 
Talem.  There  both  parties,  in  the  presence  of  each  other, 
were  upon  the  point  of  engaging  in  a  battle ;  already,  while 
skirmishing,  several  had  been  mortally  wounded. 

This  news  frightened  Anna  she  knew  that  I  was  not  a 
man  who  would  await  quietly  at  home  the  issue  of  the  battle ; 
she  already  fancied  she  saw  me,  with  my  ten  guards,  engaged 
in  the  thick  of  the  fight,  and  perhaps  a  victim  of  my  devoted- 
ness.  I  comforted  her  as  I  had  always  done,  promising  to  be 
prudent,  and  not  forget  her ;  but  there  was  not  a  moment  to 
lose ;  it  was  necessary,  at  all  risks,  to  try  to  put  an  end  to  a 
conflict  that  might  no  doubt  cause  the  death  of  many  men. 
How  could  I  do  so  with  my  ten  guards  ?  Dare  I  pretend  to 
impose  my  will  as  law  on  this  vast  multitude  ?  Clearly  not. 
To  attempt  to  do  it  by  force  would  be  to  sacrifice  all :  what 
was  to  be  done  ?  Arm  all  my  Indians — but  I  had  not  boats 
enough  to  carry  them  to  Talem :  in  this  difficulty  I  decided 
upon  setting  out  alone  with  my  lieutenant.  We  took  our  arms, 
and  set  sail  in  a  canoe,  that  we  steered  ourselves ;  we  had 
scarcely  come  near  the  beach  within  hail  of  the  shore,  'when 
some  armed  Indians  called  out  to  us  to  stand  off,  otherwise 
they  would  fire  upon  us.  Without  paying  attention  to  this 
threat,  my  lieutenant  and  I,  some  minutes  later,  jumped  boldly 
on  shore,  and  after  a  few  steps  we  found  ourselves  in  the  midst 
of  the  combatants. 

I  went  immediately  up  to  the  chiefs  and  addressed  them. 

"  Wretched  men,"  I  said  to  them,  "  what  are  you  going  to  do? 
It  is  upon  you  who  command  that  the  severity  of  the  law  will 
fall.  It  is  still  time  :  try  to  deserve  your  pardon.  Order  your 


MY    SUPPRESSION    OF   A    NATIVE    WAR. 

men  to  give  me  up  their  arms ;  lay  down  your  own,  or  else  in  a 
few  minutes  I  will  place  myself  at  the  head  of  your  enemies 
to  fight  against  you.  Obey,  if  not  you  will  be  treated  as 
rebels." 

They  listened  attentively  to  me ;  they  were  half  conquered. 
However,  one  of  them  made  me  this  reply : 

"  And  if  you  take  away  our  arms  who  will  satisfy  us  that 
our  enemies  will  not  come  to  attack  us  ?  " 

"I  will,"  I  told  them;  "I  give  you  my  word;  and  if 
they  do  not  obey  me  as  you  are  going  to  do,  I  will  return 
to  you,  I  will  give  you  back  your  arms,  and  will  fight  at 
your  head." 

These  words,  said  with  a  tone  of  authority  and  command, 
produced  the  effect  I  expected.  The  chiefs,  without  uttering 
a  word,  laid  their  arms  at  my  feet.  Their  example  was  fol 
lowed  by  all  the  combatants,  and,  in  a  moment,  a  heap  of  cara 
bines,  guns,  spears,  and  cutlasses  were  laid  down  before  me. 
I  appointed  ten  among  these  individuals  who  had  just  obeyed 
me,  gave  them  each  a  gun,  and  told  them : 

"  I  confide  to  you  the  care  of  these  arms.  If  anyone  at 
tempts  to  take  possession  of  them,  fire  upon  the  assailants." 

I  pretended  to  take  down  their  names,  and  went  off  to  the 
opposite  camp,  where  I  found  all  the  combatants  on  foot,  ready 
to  march  and  fight  against  their  enemies.  I  stopped  them, 
saying : 

"  The  battle  is  over — your  enemies  are  disarmed.  You, 
too,  must  give  me  up  your  arms,  or  else  immediately  embark 
in  your  canoes,  and  go  home.  If  you  do  not  obey  me,  I  will 
give  back  their  arms  instantly  to  your  opponents,  and  1  will 
put  myself  at  their  head  to  fight  against  you.  Perform  what 
I  command  you ;  I  promise  you  all  shall  be  forgotten." 


184  TWENTY   YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

There  was  no  room  for  hesitation.  The  Indians  knew  that 
I  did  not  allow  much  time  for  reflection,  and  that  my  threats  and 
chastisements  followed  each  other  closely.  Shortly  after,  they 
all  embarked  in  their  canoes.  I  remained  on  the  beach  alone, 
with  my  lieutenant,  until  I  had  almost  lost  sight  of  this  small 
fleet.  I  then  returned  to  the  other  camp,  where  I  was  impa 
tiently  expected.  I  announced  to  the  Indians  they  had  no 
longer  any  enemies,  and  that  consequently  they  could  go  back 
quietly  to  their  village. 

But  a  few  days  elapsed,  as  may  be  seen,  without  my  having 
new  dangers  to  encounter.  I  was  accustomed  to  them :  I 
relied  upon  my  star,  and  triumphed  from  all  my  imprudences. 
My  Indians  were  blindly  submissive  to  me.  I  was  so  certain 
of  their  fidelity,  that  I  no  longer  took  against  them  the  precau 
tions  which  I  considered  necessary  during  the  first  year  of 
my  residence  at  Jala-Jala. 

My  Anna  took  part  every  day  more  and  more  in  my 
labours,  anxieties,  and  even  in  some  of  my  dangers.  Would  it 
have  been  possible  not  to  have  loved  her  with  deeper  affection, 
than  that  which  one  feels  for  a  companion  leading  a  peaceful 
and  insignificant  life  ?  With  what  gladness  she  received  me 
after  the  shortest  absence  !  Joy  and  satisfaction  shone  on  her 
face,  her  caresses  were  as  a  balsam  that  healed  all  my  lassi 
tude,  and  even  the  reproaches  she  addressed  me  so  gently,  for 
the  uneasiness  I  had  caused  her,  fell  upon  my  heart  as  drops 
of  beatitude. 

Jala-Jala  was  most  flourishing ;  immense  fields  of  rice, 
sugar-cane,  and  coffee,  had  taken  the  place  of  woods  and  forests 
unproductive  in  themselves.  Rich  pasture-grounds  were  co 
vered  with  numerous  flocks  ;  and  a  fine  Indian  village  stood 
in  the  centre  of  the  labouring-ground.  Here,  there  was  every- 


HOSPITALITY    TO    STRANGERS. 


185 


where  to  be  seen  plenty,  activity ;  and  joy  smiled  on  the  coun 
tenances  of  all  the  inhabitants.  My  own  dwelling  had  become 
the  rendezvous,  or  resorting-place,  of  all  the  travellers  arriving 
at  Manilla,  and  a  refuge  of 
convalescence  of  many  pa 
tients,  who  would  come 
and  breathe  the  good  and 
mild  air  of  Jala-Jala,  as 
well  as  enjoy  its  pleasures 
and  amusements.  Under 
that  roof  there  was  no  dis 
tinction,  no  difference;  all 
were  equals  in  our  eyes, 


Caccujus  txxir  Jala-lain. 


186  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

whether  French,  Spanish,  English,  American.  No  matter  to 
what  nation  belonged  those  who  landed  at  Jala-Jala,  they  were 
received  like  brothers,  and  with  all  that  cordial  hospitality  to 
to  be  found  formerly  in  our  colonies.  My  visitors  enjoyed  full 
and  active  liberty  on  my  little  estate ;  but  he  who  was  not 
desirous  of  eating  alone  was  obliged  to  remember  the  time  of 
meals  :  during  the  other  hours  of  the  day  one  and  all  followed 
their  own  inclinations.  For  instance,  naturalists  went  in  pur 
suit  of  insects  and  birds,  and  made  an  ample  harvest  of  every 
species  of  plants.  Persons  ailing  met  with  the  assiduous  care 
of  a  physician,  as  well  as  with  the  kind  attention  and  enjoyed 
the  company  of  a  most  amiable  and  well-informed  mistress  of 
the  house,  who  had  the  natural  talent  of  enchanting  all  those 
who  spent  but  a  short  time  in  her  society.  They  who  liked 
walking  might  look  about  for  the  fine  views,  and  choose  their 
resting-place  either  in  the  woods,  the  mountains,  near  the 
cascades  or  the  brooks,  or  on  the  beautiful  borders  of  the 
lake. 

But  to  sportsmen  Jala-Jala  was  really  a  "  promised  land  ;" 
there  they  always  found  a  good  pack  of  hounds,  Indians  to 
guide  them,  good  stout  horses  to  carry  them  across  the  various 
mountains  and  plains,  where  the  stag  and  wild  boar  were  to  be 
met  with  most  plentifully ;  and  were  they  desirous  of  less 
fatiguing  exercise,  they  only  had  to  jump  into  some  of  our 
light  canoes,  and  skim  over  the  blue  waters,  shooting  on  their 
way  at  the  hosts  of  aquatic  birds  flying  around  them  in  all  di 
rections, — they  could  even  land  on  the  various  small  islands 
situated  between  Jala-Jala  and  the  isle  of  Talem.  There  they 
could  find  a  sort  of  sport  utterly  unknown  in  Europe— that  is, 
immense  bats,  a  species  of  vampire,  designated  by  naturalists 
by  the  name  of  roussettes.  During  six  months  in  the  year,  at 


LA    GIRONIERE    IX    HIS    HUNTING    DRESS. — Page  180. 


BAT    AND    LIZARD    SHOOTING.  187 

the  period  of  the  eastern  monsoon,  every  tree  on  these  little 
isles  is  covered,  from  the  topmost  down  to  the  lowest  branch, 
with  those  huge  bats,  that  supply  the  place  of  the  foliage 
which  they  have  entirely  destroyed.  Muffled  up  in  their 
vast  wings  they  sleep  during  the  whole  day,  and  in  the  night 
time  they  start  off  in  large  bodies  roaming  about  in  search 
of  their  prey.  But  as  soon  as  the  western  monsoon  has  sue 
ceeded  the  eastern,  they  disappear,  and  repair  always  to  the 
same  place, — the  eastern  coast  of  Luzon,  where  they  take 
shelter;  after  the  monsoon  changed,  they  return  to  their 
former  quarters. 

As  soon  as  our  guests  would  alight  upon  one  of.  these 
islands,  they  opened  their  fire,  and  continued  it  till — 
frightened  by  so  many  explosions  and  the  screams  of  the 
wounded,  clinging  to  and  hanging  from  the  branches — the  bats 
would  fly  away  in  a  body — en  masse.  For  some  time  they  would 
whirl  and  turn  round  and  round  like  a  dense  cloud  over  their 
abandoned  home,  imitating,  in  a  most  perfect  way,  those  furies 
we  see  in  certain  engravings  representing  the  infernal  regions, 
and  then,  flying  off  a  short  distance,  would  perch  upon  the 
trees  in  a  neighbouring  isle.  If  the  sportsmen  were  not  over- 
fatigued  by  the  slaughter  they  might  then  follow  them,  and 
set-to  again ;  but  they  generally  found  they  had  made  victims 
enough,  and  diversified  their  pleasure  by  picking  up  the  slain 
from  under  the  trees.  The  bat  shooting  over,  our  sportsmen 
would  then  proceed  to  a  new  sport — 

"  To  fresh  fields  and  pastures  new ;" 

that  is,  in  pursuit  of  and  shooting  at  the  iguanas,  a  large 
species  of  lizard,  measuring  from  five  to  six  feet  long,  which 
infest  the  rocks  on  the  borders  of  the  lake.  Tired  of  firing 


188  TWENTY    YEARS    IN   THE    PHILIPPINES. 

without  being  obliged  to  show  any  skill,  our  chasseurs  would 
re-embark  in  their  pirogues  and  row  in  search  of  new  amuse 
ment, — this  was,  to  shoot  at  the  eagles  that  came  hovering  over 
their  heads.  Here  skill  was  requisite,  as  well  as  a  prompt, 
sure  glance  of  the  eye,  as  it  is  only  with  ball  that  these  enor 
mous  birds  of  prey  can  be  reached.  Our  fowlers  would  then 
return  home,  with  their  boats  full  of  game ;  and  everyone,  of 
course,  had  his  own  feats  of  prowess  to  relate. 

The  flesh  of  the  iguana  and  the  bat  is  savoury  and  delicate ; 
but  as  for  its  taste,  that  entirely  depends  upon  the  imagina 
tion,  as  may  here  be  seen. 

After  returning  from  one  of  these  grand  shooting  excursions 
to  the  minor  islands,  a  young  American  informed  me  that  his 
friends  and  he  himself  were  most  desirous  of  tasting  the 
iguana  and  the  bat;  so,  supposing  them  all  to  be  of  the 
same  mind,  I  ordered  my  maitre-dlwtel  to  prepare  for  dinner 
a  curry  of  iguana  and  a  ragout  of  bats.  The  first  dish  served 
round  at  dinner  was  the  curry,  of  which  they  one  and  all  par 
took  with  very  good  appetite ;  upon  which  I  ventured  to  say : 
"  You  see  the  flesh  of  the  iguana  is  most  delicate."  At  these 
words  all  my  guests  turned  pale,  and  they  all,  by  a  sudden 
motion,  pushed  their  plates  from  before  them,  not  even  being 
able  to  swallow  what  their  mouths  contained.  I  was  therefore 
obliged  to  order  the  removal  of  the  entrees  of  iguana  and  bats 
before  we  could  proceed  with  the  repast. 

When  it  was  in  my  power,  I  would  accompany  my  guests 
in  their  excursions,  and  then  the  chase  was  abundant  and  full 
of  interest,  because  I  ever  took  care  to  guide  them  towards 
places  abounding  in  game  and  very  picturesque.  Sometimes 
I  would  take  them  to  the  isle  of  Socolme,  a  still  more  curious 
place  indeed  than  the  baf  islands.  Socolme  is  a  circular  lake — 


THE    ISLE    AND    LAKE    OF    SOCOLME.  189 

being  one  league  in  circumference — in  the  midst  of  the  great 
lake  of  Bay,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  a  cordon  or  ribbon  of 
land ;  or,  to  express  myself  better,  by  a  mountain  which  rises 
to  an  elevation  of  from  twelve  to  fifteen  hundred  feet;  the 
centre  of  the  mountain  at  the  summit  is  occupied  by  the  lake 
of  Socolme,  and  is  evidently  the  crater  of  an  extinct  volcano. 
Both  sides  are  completely  covered  with  large  trees  of  luxuriant 
growth.  It  is  on  the  border  of  the  small  lake — where  the  Indians 
never  go,  through  fear  of  the  caymans — that  almost  all  the  aquatic 
birds  of  the  grand  lake  resort  to  lay  their  eggs.  Every  tree,  white 
with  the  guano  which  they  deposit  there,  is  covered  with  birds'- 
nests,  full  of  eggs  and  birds  of  every  size  and  age. 

One  day,  in  company  of  my  brother  and  Mr.  Hamilton 
Lindsay,*  an  Englishman,  who  was  as  fearless  an  explorer  as 
ourselves,  I  started  from  the  plantation,  with  the  intention  of 
having  some  light  canoes  carried  across  the  high  ground  which 
separates  the  Socolme  lake  from  the  lake  of  Bay,  and  of  using 
them  on  the  lake;  and,  after  overcoming  many  difficulties,  we, 
by  the  assistance  of  our  Indians,  carried  out  this  project. 

We  were  the  first  tourists  that  ever  ventured  to  expose  our 
lives  on  this  Socolme  lake.  The  Indians  who  had  come  with 
us  refused  most  decidedly  to  enter  the  boats,  and  exerted  all 
their  eloquence  to  prevent  us  from  going  on  the  water.  They 
spoke  to  us  thus : — 

"  You  are  going,  for  no  good  purpose,  to  expose  yourselves 
to  very  great  dangers,  against  which  you  have  no  means  of 
defence,  for  before  you  have  gone  far  you  will  see  thousands  of 

*  While  this  work  was  in  the  press,  Mr.  Hamilton  Lindsay,  who  has 
already  published  an  account  of  his  "  Voyage  to  the  Northern  Ports  of 
China,"  kindly  furnished  the  Publishers  with  confirmatory  proofs  of 
M.  de  la  Gironiere's  narrative,  see  Appendix,  No.  II. 


190  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

caymans  rising  out  of  the  deep  water;  they  will  come  to  attack 
you,  and  what  can  you  oppose  to  those  ferocious  and  invulner 
able  monsters  ?  Your  guns  and  bullets  connot  wound  them. 
And  as  for  escape  by  rowing  quickly,  that  is  not  possible.  In 
their  own  element  they  swim  much  faster  than  your  canoes, 
and  when  they  come  up  to  you  they  will  turn  your  boats  up-side- 
down  with  far  more  ease  than  you  can  drive  it  along ;  and  then 
the  frightful  scene  will  begin,  from  which  you  cannot  escape." 

There  was  much  good  sense  in  what  they  said,  and  there 
can  be  no  doubt  that  it  was  most  imprudent  of  us  to  em 
bark  in  a  little  frail  canoe,  and  to  make  a  trip  over  a  lako 
inhabited  by  such  numbers  of  caymans,  and  especially  since  it 
was  to  be  feared  that  the  lake  did  not  supply  fish  enough  to 
satisfy  their  voracity ;  and  of  course  when  enraged  by  hunger 
they  were  more  to  be  dreaded. 

But  we  were  never  deterred  by  dangers  or  difficulties  ;  so, 
taking  no  account  of  the  prognostics  of  my  prudent  Indians, 
we,  while  they  were  delivering  their  long  speeches,  had  lashed 
together  two  canoes  for  greater  security. 

We  had  not  proceeded  many  yards  from  the  bank,  when  we 
all  experienced  feelings  of  alarm,  attributable,  no  doubt,  to  the 
expectation  of  danger  being  immediate,  as  well  aS  to  the  aspect 
of  the  place  which  presented  itself  to  our  view. 

We  were  down  in  the  deepest  part  of  a  gulf,  surrounded  by 
lofty  and  precipitous  mountains,  which  were  externally  covered 
with  very  thick  vegetation.  They,  on  all  sides,  presented  a  bar 
rier,  through  which  it  was  impossible  to  pass.  The  shadows 
which  they  cast  over  the  water,  at  the  extreme  point  of  the 
lake,  produced  the  effect  of  half  darkness,  which,  in  conjunction 
with  the  silence  prevailing  in  that  dismal  solitude,  gave  it  an 
aspect  so  dreary  and  saddening,  as  to  produce  in  us  most  painful 


ADVENTURE  WITH  A  CAYMAN.  191 

feelings ;  each  of  us  as  it  were,  struck  with  terror,  kept  his 
thoughts  to  himself,  and  no  one  spoke. 

Our  canoes  went  on,  moving  farther  and  farther  from  the 
brink  from  which  we  had  embarked  ;  and  it  glided  easily  over 
the  glassy  sheet  of  water,  which  is  never  agitated  by  even  the 
roughest  gales,  and  does  not  receive  the  rays  of  the  sun  except 
when  that  luminary  is  at  the  zenith. 

The  silence  in  which  we  were  absorbed  was  suddenly 
broken  by  the  appearance  of  a  cayman,  which  raised  its  hideous 
head,  and  opened  its  enormous  jaws,  as  if  about  to  swallow  the 
canoes,  as  it  darted  after  us. 

The  moment  was  come ;  the  grand  drama  announced  by 
the  Indians  was  about  to  be  realised,  or  all  our  fears  would  be 
dissipated  without  any  delay.  There  was  not  one  instant  to 
be  spared,  and  we  had  no  choice  but  to  try  and  escape  as  fast 
as  we  could,  for  the  enemy  was  gaining  on  us,  and  it  would  be 
madness  to  await  his  attack.  I  was  steering,  and  I  exerted 
myself  to  the  utmost  to  get  away  from  the  danger  and  to 
escape  to  the  shore.  But  the  amphibious  beast  was  approach 
ing  so  fast  that  he  could  almost  seize  us,  when  Lindsay,  run 
ning  all  risks,  fired  his  gun  direct  at  the  brute. 

The  effect  produced  by  the  detonation  was  prodigious, 
for,  as  it  were  by  enchantment,  it  dispelled  all  our  appre 
hensions.  The  awful  silence  was  broken  in  the  most  striking 
manner;  the  cayman  was  frightened,  and  sank  abruptly  to 
the  bottom  of  the  lake ;  hundreds  of  echoes  resounded  from 
all  sides,  like  the  discharges  of  a  rifle  corps,  and  these  were 
repeated  to  the  tops  of  the  mountains,  while  clouds  of  cor 
morants,  starting  from  all  the  trees  around,  uttered  their 
screaming  and  piercing  cries,  in  which  they  were  joined  by 
the  Indians,  who  shouted  with  joy  on  seeing  from  the  bank 


192  TWENTY   YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

the  flight  of  the  hostile  beast,  of  which  they  are  always  so 
much  afraid. 

All  then  became  tranquil,  and  we  proceeded  at  our  leisure. 
From  time  to  time  a  cayman  made  his  appearance  ;  but  the 
explosions  caused  by  our  firing  soon  drove  the  monsters 
down  into  the  deepest  parts  of  the  lake,  more  frightened  than 
hurt,  for  even  when  we  struck  them  our  balls  rebounded  from 
their  scales  without  piercing  them. 

We  went  close  to  the  large  trees,  the  branches  of  which 
were  spreading  over  the  water ;  they  were  thickly  covered  with 
nests,  filled  with  eggs,  and  so  great  a  quantity  of  young  birds, 
that  we  not  only  captured  as  many  as  we  wished,  but  could  have 
filled  several  boats  with  them. 

The  cormorants,  alarmed  by  the  explosions  we  made, 
whirled  over  us  continually,  like  an  immense  cloud,  during  the 
time  we  troubled  their  gloomy  abode,  and  seemed  to  "  dis 
turb  their  solitary  reign  ;"  but  they  did  not  wish  to  go  far  from 
their  nests,  in  which  their  young  broods  were  crying  out  for 
parental  care. 

After  we  had  rowed  round  the  lake,  we  came  to  the  spot 
from  which  we  started,  having  ended  our  expedition  happily 
without  any  accident,  and  even  without  having  incurred  all 
the  dangers  that  our  Indians,  who  were  awaiting  our  return  in 
order  to  take  our  boats  once  more  across  the  mountain,  had 
wished  to  make  us  believe. 

Resolved  not  to  finish  the  excursion  without  producing 
some  beneficial  results  for  the  sake  of  scientific  knowledge,  we 
measured  the  circumference  of  the  lake,  which  we  found  to  be 
about  two  miles  and  a  half.  We  were  able  to  take  soundings 
in  the  deepest  parts  towards  tho  middle,  where  we  found  the 
depth  about  three  hundred  feet ;  while  at  some  few  fathoms 


LOS    BANGS — MONKEY    SHOOTING.  193 

from  the  banks  we  found  it  was  invariably  one  hundred  and 
eighty  feet.  And  here  the  remark  may  be  made,  that  in  no 
part  of  the  great  Lake  of  Bay  has  the  depth  been  found  to 
exceed  seventy-five  feet ;  from  which  it  may  be  concluded,  as 
we  have  previously  stated,  that  the  lake  of  Socolme  is  formed 
within  the  crater  of  an  extinct  volcano,  its  waters  having  per 
colated  or  filtered  through  from  the  outer  lake  of  Bay. 

From  Socolme  I  took  my  guests  to  Los  Banos,  at  the 
foot  of  a  mountain,  several  thousand  feet  high,  from  which 
several  springs  of  boiling  water  flow  into  the  lake,  and,  mix 
ing  with  its  waters,  produce  every  temperature  to  be  desired 
in  a  natural  bath.  There  also,  on  the  hill,  we  were  sure  to 
meet  with  good  and  plentiful  sport.  Wild  pigeons  and  beau 
tiful  doves,  perched  upon  majestic  trees,  "mistrustful  of  their 
doom,"  allowed  our  sportsmen  to  approach  very  near,  and  they 
never  returned  from  "  the  baths  "  without  having  "  bagged  " 
plenty  of  them. 

Upon  our  appointed  days  of  relaxation  from  labour,  we 
would  go  into  the  neighbouring  woods,  and  wage  war  on  the 
monkeys,  our  harvest's  greatest  enemies.  As  soon  as  a  little 
dog,  purposely  brought  up  to  this  mode  of  warfare,  warned  us 
by  his  barkings  that  marauders  were  in  sight,  we  repaired  to 
the  spot,  and  then  the  firing  was  opened.  Fright  seized  hold 
on  the  mischievous  tribe,  every  member  of  which  hid  itself  in 
its  tree,  and  became  as  invisible  as  it  possibly  could.  But  the 
little  dog  would  not  leave  his  post,  while  we  would  turn  round 
the  tree,  and  never  failed  discovering  the  hidden  inmate. 
We  then  commence  the  attack,  not  ceasing  until  pug  was  laid 
prostrate.  After  having  made  several  victims,  I  sent  them  to  be 
hung  up  on  forks  around  the  sugar-cane  fields,  as  scarecrows 
to  those  that  had  escaped  ;  I,  however,  always  sent  the  largest 

I 


194  TWENTY   YEARS    IN    THE   PHILIPPINES. 

one  to  Father  Miguel,  our  excellent  curate,  who  was  very  fond 
of  a  monkey  ragout. 

Sometimes  I  would  take  my  guests  to  a  distance  of  several 
days'  march,  to  show  them  admirable  views,  cascades,  grottoes, 
or  those  wonders  of  vegetation  produced  by  the  fertile  nature 
of  the  Philippines. 

One  day,  Mr.  Lindsay,  the  most  intrepid  traveller  I  had 
ever  known,  and  who  had  recently  accompanied  me  to  the 
lake  of  Socolme,  proposed  to  me  to  go  with  him  to  the  grotto 
of  San-Mateo,  a  place  that  several  travellers  and  myself  had 
visited  more  than  once,  but  always  in  so  incomplete  a  manner, 
that  we  had  only  been  able  to  explore  a  small  portion  of  it.  I 
was  too  well  pleased  with  the  proposal  not  to  accept  it  with 
eagerness ;  but  this  time  I  resolved  that  I  would  not  return 
from  this  expedition,  as  I  had  from  former  ones,  without  having 
made  every  possible  effort  to  explore  its  dimensions  and  re 
cesses.  Lindsay,  Dr.  Genu,  and  my  brother,  participated 
in  my  resolution  of  verifying  whether  or  not  there  was  any 
semblance  of  truth  in  what  the  Indians  related  concerning 
that  grotto ;  or  if,  as  I  had  so  often  experienced  it  myself, 
their  pot  tic  minds  did  not  create  what  had  never  existed. 
Their  old  Indian  traditions  attributed  to  that  cavern  an  im 
mense  extent.  There,  they  would  say,  are  to  be  seen  fairy 
palaces,  with  which  nothing  could  be  compared,  and  which 
were  the  residences  of  fantastical  beings.  Determined,  then, 
on  seeing  with  our  own  eyes  all  these  wonders,  we  set  out  for 
San-Mateo,  taking  with  us  an  Indian,  having  with  him  a  crow 
bar  and  a  couple  of  pickaxes,  to  dig  us  out  a  way,  should  we 
have  the  chance  of  prolonging  our  subterraneous  walk  beyond 
the  limits  which  we  all  already  knew.  We  also  took  with  us 
a  good  provision  of  flambeaus,  so  necessary  to  put  our  project 


EXPEDITION    TO    SAN-MATEO. 


190 


into  execution.  We  arrived  early  at  San-Mateo,  and  spent  the 
remaining  part  of  the  day  in  visiting  admirable  views  and 
situations  in  the  neighbourhood.  We  also  went  down  into 
the  bed  of  a  torrent  that  takes  its  source  in  the  mountains, 
and  passes  through  the  north  side  of  this  district ;  there  we 
saw  several  Indians,  male  and  female,  all  busy  in  washing  the 
sand  in  search  of  gold-dust.  Their  daily  produce  at  this  work 
varies  from  one  to  ten  francs ;  this  depends  on  the  more  or 
less  fortunate  vein  that  perchance  they  fall  on.  This  trade, 
together  with  the  tilling  of  land — to  be  equalled  by  no  other  in 
fertility— and  hewing  timber  for  building,  which  is  to  be  found 
most  plentifully  on  the  neighbouring  mountains,  is  all  the 
wealth  of  the  inhabitants,  who,  in  most  part,  live  in  abundance 
and  prosperity. 


196  TWENTY   YEARS   IN   THE    PHILIPPINES. 

At  th&  next  day's  dawn  we  were  on  our  way  to  the  grotto, 
which  is  about  two  hours'  walk  from  the  village.  The  road, 
which  is  bordered  by  nature's  most  beautiful  productions  in 
vegetation,  traverses  the  finest  rice  plantations,  and  is  of  most 
easy  access ;  however,  about  half-way,  it  suddenly  becomes 
dangerous  and  even  difficult.  Here  we  leave  the  cultivated 
fields,  and  follow  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  which  flows  in 
the  midst  of  not  very  high  mountains,  and  has  so  many  bends, 
twistings,  and  meanderings,  that,  in  order  to  cross  it,  it  is  ne 
cessary  at  almost  every  moment  to  have  recourse  to  swimming, 
and  then  to  take  the  narrow  paths  leading  from  its  margin. 
Nothing,  until  at  a  very  short  distance  from  the  grotto,  inter 
rupts  the  monotony  of  these  rural  sites  and  situations.  The 
traveller  plods  his  way  through  a  gorge,  or  ravine,  where  upon 
all  sides  the  view  is  bounded  by  rocks,  and  a  long  line  of  ver 
dant  vegetation,  composed  of  the  shrubs  that  cover  the  hills. 
But  through  a  vast  winding,  or  rather  turning,  made  by  the  river, 
the  eye  is  suddenly  dazzled  by  the  splendid  panorama  that  seems 
to  develop  itself  and  move  on  with  fairy  magnificence.  Let 
the  reader  imagine  that  he  is  standing  at  the  base  of  two  im 
mense  mountains,  resembling  two  pyramids  in  their  form,  both 
equally  alike  and  similar  in  height.  The  space  that  intervenes 
between  them  allows  the  eye  to  plunge  into  the  distance,  and 
to  discover  there  a  tableau,  a  picture,  or  view,  which  is  im 
possible  to  be  described.  Between  the  two  monster  mountains 
the  river  has  found  an  issue,  and  there  the  traveller  beholds 
it  at  his  feet,  precipitating  itself  like  an  impetuous  torrent  in 
the  midst  of  white  marble  rocks.  The  water,  both  limpid 
and  glossy,  seems  to  play  with  every  object  that  impedes  its 
course  ;  at  one  moment  it  will  form  a  noisy  cascade,  and  then 
suddenly  disappear  at  the  foot  of  an  enormous  rock,  and  soon 


DESCRIPTION    OF    THE    GEOTTO.  197 

after  appear  again,  bubbling  and  foaming,  just  as  if  some 
supernatural  strength  had  worked  it  from  the  bowels  of  the 
earth.  Farther  on,  and  in  forming  itself  into  a  continuous 
number  of  minor  cascades,  this  same  river  flows,  with  a  vast 
silvery  surface,  over  a  bed  of  marble,  as  white  and  as  brilliant 
as  alabaster,  and  falls  upon  others  of  still  equal  whiteness. 
Finally,  after  having  passed  over  all  difficulties,  all  dangers,  it 
flows  with  much  more  modesty  over  a  humble  bed,  where 
may  be  seen  the  reflection  of  the  admirable  vegetation  its 
banks  are  embellished  with. 

The  famous  grotto  is  situated  in  the  mountain  on  the  right 
side  of  the  river,  which  the  traveller  crosses  over  by  jumping 
from  one  block  of  marble  to  another ;  and  then,  after  having 
ascended  a  steep  height  of  about  two  hundred  yards,  he  finds 
himself  at  the  entrance  to  the  grotto,  whither  I  shall  conduct 
the  reader  step  by  step. 

The  entrance,  the  form  of  which  is  almost  regular,  repre 
sents  pretty  well  the  portico  of  a  church,  with  a  full  arch, 
adorned  with  verdant  festoons,  composed  of  creeping  plants 
and  bind-weeds.  When  the  visitor  has  once  passed  under  the 
portico  he  enters  into  a  large  and  spacious  hall,  studded  with 
stalactites  of  a  very  yellowish  colour,  and  there  a  dense  crowd 
of  bats,  frightened  by  the  light  of  the  torches,  fly  out  with 
great  noise  and  precipitation.  For  about  a  hundred  paces,  in 
advancing  towards  the  interior,  the  vault  continues  to  be  very 
lofty,  and  the  gallery  is  spacious  ;  but  suddenly  the  former  de 
clines  immensely,  and  the  latter  becomes  so  narrow  that  it 
scarce  admits  of  a  passage  for  one  man,  who  is  obliged  to  crawl 
on  his  hands  and  knees  to  pass  through,  and  continue  in  this 
painful  position  for  about  a  hundred  yards.  And  now  the 
gallery  becomes  wide  again,  and  the  vault  rises  several  feet 


J98  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

high.  But  here,  again,  a  new  difficulty  soon  presents  itself, 
and  which  must  be  overcome ;  a  sort  of  wall,  three  or  four  yards 
high,  must  be  climbed  over,  and  immediately  behind  which 
lies  a  most  dangerous  subterraneous  place,  where  two  enormous 
precipices,  with  open  mouths  on  a  level  with  the  ground,  seem 
ready  to  swallow  up  the  imprudent  traveller,  who,  although  he 
have  his  torch  lighted,  would  not  walk,  step  by  step,  and  with 
the  greatest  precaution,  through  this  gloomy  labyrinth.  A 
few  stones  thrown  into  these  gulfs  attest,  by  the  hollow  noise 
produced  by  their  falling  to  the  bottom,  that  they  are  several 
hundred  feet  deep.  Then  the  gallery,  which  is  still  wide 
and  spacious,  runs  on  without  presenting  anything  remarkable 
till  the  visitor  arrives  on  the  spot  where  the  last  researches 
stopped  at.  Here  it  seems  to  terminate  by  a  sort  of  rotunda, 
surrounded  by  stalactites  of  divers  forms,  and  which,  in  one 
part,  represents  a  real  dome  supported  by  columns.  This 
dome  looks  over  a  small  lake,  out  of  which  a  murmuring 
stream  flows  continually  into  the  precipices  already  described. 
It  was  here  that  we  began  our  serious  investigations,  desirous 
of  ascertaining  if  it  were  possible  to  prolong  this  subterraneous 
peregrination.  We  dived  several  times  into  the  lake  without 
discovering  anything  favourable  to  our  desires ;  we  then  directed 
our  steps  to  the  right,  examining  all  the  while,  by  the  light  of 
our  torches,  the  smallest  gaps  to  be  seen  in  the  sides  of  the 
gallery,  when  at  last,  after  many  unsuccessful  attempts,  we 
discovered  a  hole  through  which  a  man's  arm  could  scarcely 
pass.  By  introducing  a  torch  into  it,  how  great  was  our  sur 
prise  to  see  within  it  an  immense  space,  studded  with  rock- 
crystal.  I  need  not  add  that  such  a  discovery  inspired  us  with 
the  greatest  desire  of  more  closely  examining  that  which  we  had 
but  an  imperfect  view  of.  We  therefore  set  our  Indian  to  work 


DISCOVERIES — MIEACULOUS    ESCAPE.  199 

with  his  pick-axe,  to  widen  the  hole  and  make  a  passage  for  us  ; 
his  labour  went  on  slowly,  he  struck  his  hlows  gently  and  cau 
tiously,  so  as  to  avoid  a  falling-in  of  the  rock,  which  would 
not  only  have  marred  our  hopes,  but  would,  besides,  have 
caused  a  great  disaster.  The  vault  of  rocks  suspended  over 
our  heads  might  bury  us  all  alive,  and,  as  will  be  seen  by  the 
sequel,  the  precautions  we  had  taken  were  not  fruitless.  At 
the  very  moment  when  our  hopes  were  about  to  be  realised, 
— the  aperture  being  now  wide  enough  to  admit  of  us  passing 
through  it — suddenly,  and  above  our  heads,  we  heard  a  hollow 
prolonged  rustling  noise  that  froze  us  to  death ;  the  vault  had 
been  shaken,  and  we  dreaded  its  falling  upon  us.  For  a 
moment,  which  seemed  to  us,  however,  very  long,  we  were  all 
terrified ;  the  Indian  himself  was  standing  as  motionless  as  a 
statue,  with  his  hands  upon  the  handle  of  his  pick-axe,  just  in 
the  same  position  as  he  was  when  he  gave  his  last  blow. 
After  a  moment's  solemn  silence,  when  our  fright  had  a  little 
subsided,  we  began  to  examine  the  nature  of  the  danger  we  had 
just  escaped.  Above  our  heads  a  long  and  wide  split  ran  along 
the  vault  to  a  distance  of  several  yards,  and,  at  the  place  where 
it  stopped,  an  enormous  rock,  detached  from  the  dome,  had  been 
most  providentially  impeded  in  its  fall  downwards  by  one  of  the 
columns,  which,  acting  as  a  sort  of  buttress,  kept  it  suspended 
over  the  opening  we  had  just  made.  Having,  after  mature 
examination,  ascertained  that  the  column  and  the  rock  were 
pretty  solid,  like  rash  men,  accustomed  to  daunt  all  danger 
and  surmount  any  sort  of  obstacle  and  difficulty,  we  resolved 
upon  gliding  one  by  one  into  the  dangerous  yawning.  Dr. 
Genu,  who  till  then  had  kept  a  profound  silence,  on  hearing 
of  our  resolution  was  suddenly  seized  with  such  a  panic  fear 
that  he  recovered  his  voice,  imploring  and  begging  of  us  to 


200  TWENTY   YEAKS   IN   THE    PHILIPPINES. 

take  him  out  of  the  cavern ;  and,  as  if  he  had  been  suddenly 
seized  with  a  sort  of  vertigo,  he  told  us,  with  interrupted  accents, 
that  he  could  not  breathe — that  he  felt  himself  as  if  he  were 
smothering — that  his  heart  was  beating  so  violently,  were  he 
to  stay  any  longer  amidst  the  dangers  we  were  running  he  was 
certain  of  dying  from  the  effects  of  a  rupture  of  the  heart. 
He  offered  all  he  possessed  on  earth  to  him  who  would  save  his 
life,  and  with  clasped  hands  he  supplicated  our  Indians  not 
to  forsake  him,  but  to  guide  him  out  of  the  place.  We  there 
fore  took  compassion  upon  his  state  of  mind,  and  allowed  the 
Indian  to  guide  him  out ;  but  as  soon  as  the  latter  returned, 
and  having  ascertained  during  his  absence  that  neither  the 
rocky  fragment  nor  the  column  had  stirred,  but  which  had  been 
the  momentary  cause  of  our  alarm,  we  put  our  project  into 
execution,  and  like  serpents,  one  after  the  other,  \ve  crawled 
into  the  dangerous  opening,  which  was  scarcely  large  enough 
for  our  passing  through.  We  soon  ceased  thinking  of  our  past 
dangers,  nor  did  our  present  imprudence  much  pre-occupy  our 
minds,  all  our  attention  being  entirely  absorbed  by  what  pre 
sented  itself  to  our  ravished  eyes.  Here  we  were  in  the  midst 
of  a  saloon  wearing  a  most  fairy  aspect,  and,  by  the  light  of  our 
torches,  the  vault,  the  floor,  and  the  wall  were  shining  and 
dazzling,  as  if  they  had  been  covered  over  with  the  most 
admirably  transparent  rock-crystal.  Even  in  some  places  did 
the  hand  of  man  seem  to  have  presided  over  the  ornamenting 
of  this  enchanted  palace.  Numberless  stalactites  and  stalag 
mites,  as  pellucid  as  the  limpid  stream  that  has  just  been  seized 
by  the  frost,  assumed  here  and  there  the  most  fantastic  forms 
and  shapes — they  represented  brilliant  draperies,  rows  of 
columns,  lustres,  and  chandeliers.  At  one  end,  close  to  the 
wall,  was  to  be  seen  an  altar,  with  steps  leading  up  to  it,  and 


MAGNIFICENCE  OF  THE  INTERIOR  OF  THE  GROTTO.     201 

which  seemed  to  be  in  expectation  of  the  priest  to  celebrate 
divine  service.  It  would  be  impossible  for  my  pen  to  describe 
everything  that  transported  us  with  joy,  and  drew  forth  our 
admiration ;  we  really  imagined  ourselves  to  be  in  one  of  the 
Arabian  Nights'  palaces,  and  the  Indians  themselves  were  far 
from  guessing  the  one-half  of  the  wonders  we  had  just  dis 
covered. 

Having  left  this  dazzling  palace,  we  continued  our  under 
ground  ramble,  penetrating  more  and  more  into  the  bowels  of 
the  earth,  following  step  by  step  a  winding  labyrinth,  but  which 
for  a  whole  half-league  offered  nothing  remarkable  to  our  view, 
except  now  and  then  the  sight  of  the  very  great  dangers  our 
imdauntable  curiosity  urged  us  on  to.  In  certain  parts  the 
vault  no  longer  presented  the  aspect  of  being  as  solid  as  stone, 
earth  alone  seemed  to  be  its  component  parts ;  and  here  and 
there,  recent  proofs  of  falling-in  showed  us  that  still  more 
considerable  ones  might  take  place,  and  cut  off  from  us  all 
means  of  retreat.  Nevertheless  we  pushed  on  still,  far  beyond 
our  present  adventurous  discovery,  and  at  last  arrived  at  a  new, 
magnificent,  and  extensive  space,  all  bespangled,  like  the  first, 
with  brilliant  stalactites,  and  in  no  way  inferior  to  the  former  in 
the  gorgeous  beauty  of  its  details.  Here  again  we  gave  our 
selves  up  to  the  most  minute  examination  of  the  many  wonders 
surrounding  us,  and  which  shone  like  prisms  by  the  light  of 
our  torches.  We  gathered  from  off  the  ground  several  small 
stalagmites,  as  large  and  as  round  as  hazel-nuts,  and  so  like 
that  fruit,  when  preserved,  that  some  days  later,  at  a  ball  at 
Manilla,  we  presented  some  of  them  to  the  ladies,  whose  first 
movement  was  to  put  them  to  their  mouth ;  but  soon  finding 
out  their  mistake,  they  entreated  to  be  allowed  to  keep  them, 
to  have  them,  as  they  said,  converted  into  ear-ring  drops 


202  TWENTY    YEARS   IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

Having  fully  enjoyed  the  beautiful  and  brilliant  spectacle  pre 
sented  to  our  eyes,  we  now  began  to  feel  the  effects  of  hunger 
and  fatigue.  We  had  been  walking  in  this  subterraneous 
domain  to  the  extent  of  more  than  three  miles,  had  taken  no 
rest  or  refreshment  since  morning,  and  the  day  was  already  far 
advanced. 

1  have  often  experienced  that  our  moral  strength  decreases 
in  proportion  as  our  physical  strength  does ;  and  of  course  we 
must  have  been  in  that  state  when  sinister  suppositions  took 
possession  of  our  imaginations.  One  of- our  party  communicated 
to  us  a  reflection  he  had  just  made — which  was,  that  a  falling- 
in  might  have  taken  place  between  us  and  the  issue  from  the 
grotto  ;  or,  what  appeared  still  more  probable,  that  the  enormous 
rock,  that  was  suspended  and  buttressed  up  by  the  column, 
might  have  fallen  down,  and  thus  bar  up  all  passage  through 
the  hole  we  had  so  rashly  made.  Had  such  a  misfortune 
happened  to  us,  what  a  horrible  situation  we  should  have  been 
in !  We  could  hope  for  no  help  from  without,  even  from  our 
friend  Genu,  who,  as  we  had  witnessed,  had  been  so  upset  by 
fear;  so  that,  rather  than  suffer  the  anguish  and  die  the  death 
of  the  wretch  buried  alive  in  a  sepulchre,  our  poignards  must 
have  been  our  last  resource. 

All  these  reflections,  which  we  analysed  and  commented 
upon,  one  by  one,  made  us  resolve  upon  returning,  and  leaving 
to  others,  more  imprudent  than  ourselves,  if  any  there  be,  the 
care  of  exploring  the  space  we  had  still  to  travel  over.  We 
soon  got  over  the  ground  that  separated  us  from  the  place  wo 
had  most  to  dread.  Providence  had  favoured  and  protected 
us — the  large  fragment  of  rock,  that  object  of  all  our  fears,  was 
still  propped  up.  One  after  the  other  did  we  squeeze  ourselves 
through  the  narrow  opening,  avoiding  as  much  as  possible  the 


IMPRUDENCE  OF  OUR  INDIAN — RETURN.        20S 

least  friction,  till  at  last  we  had  all  passed  through.  Joyous 
indeed  were  we  on  seeing  ourselves  out  of  danger  after  so 
perilous  an  enterprise,  and  we  were  already  beginning  to  direct 
our  steps  towards  the  outlet  of  the  cavern,  when  suddenly  a 
hollow,  prolonged  noise,  and  below  our  feet  a  rapid  trembling 
excited  once  more  all  our  fears.  But  those  fears  were  soon 
calmed  by  our  Indian,  who  came  running  towards  us  at  full 
speed,  brandishing  in  his  hand  his  pick-axe.  The  impru 
dent  fellow,  unwilling  to  sacrifice  it,  had  waited  till  we  were 
some  paces  distant,  and  then  pulling  it  to  him  most  forcibly, 
while  all  the  while  he  took  good  care  to  keep  quickly  moving 
away,  when  thanks  to  Providence,  or  to  his  own  nimbleness, 
he  was  not  crushed  to  atoms  by  the  fragment  of  the  rock, 
which,  being  no  longer  buttressed  up  by  the  column  that  had 
been  shaken,  had  fallen  to  the  ground,  completely  stopping  up 
the  issue  through  which  we  had  passed  one  after  the  other : 
so  that  no  doubt  no  one,  after  us,  will  be  able  to  penetrate 
into  the  beautiful  part  of  that  grotto  which  we  had  just 
passed  through  so  fortunately.  After  this  last  episode  we 
no  longer  hesitated  in  returning,  and  it  was  with  great  delight 
that  we  beheld  once  more  the  great  luminary  of  the  world,  and 
found  our  friend  Genu  sitting  upon  a  block  of  marble,  reflect 
ing  on  our  long  absence,  and,  at  the  same  time,  on  our  un 
qualifiable  temerity. 


Dumont  d'Urville. 


CHAPTER    X. 

Dumont  d'Urville — Rear-Admiral  Laplace :  Desertion  of  Sailors  from  his  Ship— 
I  recover  them  for  him — Origin  of  the  Inhabitants  of  the  Philippine  Islands 
— Their  General  Disposition — Hospitality  and  Respect  for  Old  Age — Tagal 
Marriage  Ceremony — Indian  Legal  Eloquence — Explanation  of  the  Matri 
monial  Speeches — The  Caymans,  or  Alligators — Instances  of  their  Ferocity — 
Imprudence  and  Death  of  my  Shepherd — Method  of  entrapping  the  Monster 
which  had  devoured  him — We  Attack  and  eventually  Capture  it— Its  Dimen 
sions — We  Dissect  and  Examine  the  Contents  of  its  Stomach — Boa-Con 
strictors — Their  large  size — Attack  of  a  Boa-Constrictor  on  a  Wild  Boar — 
We  Kill  and  Skin  it — Unsuccessful  Attempt  to  capture  a  Boa-Constrictor 
alive — A  Man  Devoured — Dangerous  Venomous  Reptiles. 

T  SHALL  perhaps  be  accused  of  exaggeration  for  what  I  say 
of  the  enjoyments  and  emotions  of  my  existence  at  Jala- Jala : 
nevertheless  I  adhere  to  the  strict  truth,  and  it  would  be  very 
easy  for  me  to  cite  the  names  of  many  persons  in  support  of 
the  truth  of  all  my  narrative.  Moreover,  the  various  tra 
vellers  who  have  spent  some  time  at  my  habitation  have 
published,  in  their  works,  the  tableau  or  recital  of  my  existence 


DESERTION    OF    SEAMEN    AT   MANILLA.  Ii0 

in  the  midst  of  my  dear  Indians,  who  were  all  so  devoted  to  mo 
Among  other  works,  I  shall  cite  "The  Voyage  Round  the 
World,"  by  the  unfortunate  Dumont  d'Urville  ;  and  that  of 
Rear-Admiral  LapL^ce,  in  each  of  which  works  will  be  found 
a  special  article  dedicated  to  Jala- Jala.* 

Since  I  have  named  M.  Laplace,  I  shall  here  relate  a  little 
anecdote  of  which  he  was  the  hero,  and  which  will  show  to 
what  a  degree  my  influence  was  generally  considered  and 
looked  up  to  in  the  province  of  Lagune. 

Several  sailors,  belonging  to  the  crew  of  the  frigate  com 
manded  by  M.  Laplace,  had  deserted  at  Manilla,  and,  notwith 
standing  all  the  searches  that  the  Spanish  government  had 
caused  to  be  made,  it  was  found  impossible  to  discover  the 
hiding-place  of  five  of  them.  M.  Laplace  coming  to  pay  a  few 
weeks'  visit  to  my  little  domain,  the  governor  said  to  him  :  "  .If 
you  wish  to  find  out  your  men  you  have  only  to  apply  to 
M.  Gironiere  —  no  one  will  discover  them  if  he  do  not; 
convey  to  him  my  orders  io  set  out  immediately  in  pursuit  of 
them." 

On  arriving  at  my  habitation  M.  Laplace  communicated  to 
me  this  order,  but  I  was  too  independent  to  think  of  executing 
it :  my  business  and  occupation  had  nothing  to  do  with  deserters. 
A  few  days  afterwards  a  captain,  accompanied  by  about  a  hundred 
soldiers,  under  his  orders,  arrived  at  Jala-Jala,  to  inform  M 
Laplace  that  he  had  scoured  the  province  without  being  able 
to  obtain  the  least  news  of  the  deserters,  whom  he  had  been 
looking  after  for  the  last  fortnight ;  at  which  news  M.  Laplace 
was  very  much  grieved,  and  coming  to  me,  said:  "  M.  de  la 
Gironiere,  I  perceive  I  shall  be  obliged  to' sail  without  the 
hands  that  have  deserted,  if  you  yourself  will  not  look  after 

*  Sec  Appendix  III.  and  IV. 


206  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

them.  I  therefore  beg  and  beseech  of  you  to  sacrifice  a  little 
of  your  time,  and  render  me  that  important  service." 

This  entreaty  was  no  order:  it  was  a  prayer,  a  supplication, 
that  was  addressed  to  me,  consequently  I  took  but  little  time 
to  reply  as  follows :  :'  Commander,  in  one  hour  hence  I  shall 
be  on  iny  way,  and  before  forty-eight  hours  are  expired  you 
shall  have  your  men  here." 

"  Oh  !  take  care,"  replied  he  ;  "  mind,  you  have  to  do  with 
more  than  rough  fellows :  do  not  therefore  expose  your  life, 
and  should  they  perchance  make  any  resistance,  give  them  no 
quarter,  but  fire  on  them." 

A  few  minutes  afterwards,  accompanied  by  my  faithful 
lieutenant  and  one  soldier,  I  crossed  over  the  lake,  and  went 
in  the  direction  where  I  thought  that  the  French  sailors  had 
taken  refuge.  I  was  soon  on  their  track ;  and  on  the  second 
day  afterwards  I  fulfilled  the  promise  I  had  made  Com 
mander  Laplace,  and  delivered  up  to  him  his  five  deserters 
against  whom  I  had  been  obliged  to  employ  neither  violence 
nor  fire-arms. 

I  have  already  had  the  occasion  of  speaking  about  the 
Tagalocs,  and  describing  their  disposition.  However,  I  have  not 
yet  entered  into  the  necessary  details  to  make  well  known  a  popu 
lation  so  submissive  to  the  Spaniards,  and  whose  primitive  origiu 
never  can  be  anything  but  hypothesis — yea,  a  true  problem. 

It  is  probable,  and  almost  incontestible,  that  the  Philippine 
Islands  were  primitively  peopled  by  aborigines,  a  small  race  of 
negroes  still  inhabiting  the  interior  of  the  forests  in  pretty  large 
numbers,  called  Ajetas  by  the  Tagalocs,  and  Negritos  by  the 
Spaniards.  Doubtless  at  a  very  distant  period  the  Malays  in 
vaded  the  shores,  and  drove  the  indigenous  population  into  the 
interior  beyond  the  mountains ;  afterwards,  whether  by  accidents 


ABORIGINES    OF    THE    PHILIPPINES.  20? 

on  sea,  or  desirous  of  availing  themselves  of  the  richness  of  tho 
soil,  they  were  joined  by  the  Chinese,  the  Japanese,  the  in 
habitants  of  the  archipelago  of  the  South  Seas,  the  Javanese, 
and  even  the  Indians.  It  must  not,  then,  be  wondered  at,  that 
from  the  mixture  proceeding  from  the  union  of  these  various 
people,  all  of  unequal  physiognomy,  there  have  risen  the  differ 
ent  nuances,  distinctions  and  types ;  upon  which,  however,  is 
generally  depicted  Malay  physiognomy  and  cruelty. 

The  Tagal  is  well  made,  rather  tall  than  otherwise.  His  hair 
is  long,  his  beard  thin,  his  colour  brass-like,  yet  sometimes  in 
clining  to  European  whiteness ;  his  eye  expanded  and  vivacious, 
somewhat  a  la  Chinoise;  nose  large;  and,  true  to  the  Malay  race, 
his  cheek  bones  are  high  and  prominent.  He  is  passionately 
fond  of  dancing  and  music ;  is,  when  in  loyg^very  loving ;  cruel 
towards  his  enemies;  never  forgives  an  act  of  injustice,  and 
ever  avenges  it  with  his  poignard,  which — like  the  kris  with 
the  Malays — is  his  favourite  weapon.  Whenever  he  has 
pledged  his  word  in  serious  business,  it  is  j>acred ;  he  gives 
himself  passionately  to  games  of  hazard;  he  is  a  good  husband, 
a  good  father ;  jealous  of  his  wife's  honour,  but  careless  of  his 
daughter's ;  who,  despite  any  little  faux-pas,  meets  with  no 
difficulty  in  getting  a  husband. 

The  Tagal  is  of  very  sober  habits  :  all  he  requires  is  water, 
a  little  rjce^an^ salt-fish.  ^  In  his  estimation  an  aged  man  is 
an  object  of  great  veneration  ;  and  where  there  exists  a  family 
of  them  in  all  periods  of  life,  the  youngest  is  naturally  most 
subservient  to  the  eldest. 

The  Tagal,  like  the  Arab,  is  hospitably  inclined,  without 
any  sentiment  of  egotism,  and  certainly  without  any  other  idea 
than  that  of  relieving  suffering  humanity :  so  that  when  a 
stranger  appears  before  an  Indian  hut  at  meal-time,  were  the 


208  TWENTY   YEARS   IN   THE    PHILIPPINES. 

ifc 


A  Tagal  Indian  Dwelling. 

poor  Indian  only  to  have  what  was  strictly  necessary  for  his 
family,  it  is  his  greatest  pleasure  to  invite  and  press  the  stranger 
to  take  a  place  at  his  humble  board,  and  partake  of  his  family 
cheer.  When  an  old  man,  whose  days  are  dwindling  to  the 
shortest  span,  can  work  no  longer,  he  is  sure  to  find  a  refuge, 
an  asylum,  a  home,  at  a  neighbour's,  where  he  is  looked  upon 
as  one  of  the  family.  There  he  may  remain  till  he  is  called 
to  "  that  bourne  from  whence  no  traveller  returns." 

Amongst  the  Tagals  the  marriage  ceremony  is  somewhat 
peculiar.  It  is  preceded  by  twro  other  ceremonies,  the  first 
of  which  is  called  Tain  manoc,  Tagal  words,  signifying 
or  meaning  "  the  cock  looking  after  his  hen."  Therefore, 
when  once  a  young  man  has  informed  Ins  father  and  mother 
that  he  has  a  predeliction  for  a  young  Indian  girl,  his 


TAGAL  MARRIAGE  CEKEMONY. 


209 


Tfoung  Tagal  Indian  and  his  Betrothed- 

parents  pay  a  visit  to  the  young  girl's  parents  upon  some  fine 
evening,  and  after  some  very  ordinary  chat  the  mamma  of  the 
young  man  offers  a  piaster  to  the  mamma  of  the  young  lady. 
Should  the  future  mother-in-law  accept,  the  young  lover  is 
admitted,  and  then  his  future  mother-in-law  is  sure  to  go  and 
spend  the  very  same  piaster  in  betel  and  cocoa-wine.  During 
the  greater  portion  of  the  night  the  whole  company  assem 
bled  upon  the  occasion  chews  betel,  drinks  cocoa-wine,  and 
discusses  upon  all  other  subjects  but  marriage.  The  young 
men  never  make  their  appearance  till  the  piaster  has  been  ac 
cepted,  because  in  that  case  they  look  upon  it  as  being  the 
first  and  most  essential  step  towards  their  marriage. 


210  TWENTY    YEARS   IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

•  On  the  next  day  the  young  man  pays  a  visit  to  the  mother, 
father,  and  other  relatives  of  his  affianced  bride.  There 
he  is  received  as  one  of  the  family ;  he  sleeps  there,  he 
lodges  there,  takes  a  part  in  all  the  labours,  and  most  particu 
larly  in  those  labours  depending  upon  the  young  maid's  super 
intendence.  He  now  undertakes  a  service  or  task  that  lasts, 
more  or  less,  two,  three,  or  four  years,  during  which  time  he 
must  look  well  to  himself ;  for  if  anything  be  found  out  against 
him  he  is  discarded,  and  never  more  can  pretend  to  the  hand 
of  her  he  would  espouse. 

The  Spaniards  did  their  best  to  suppress  this  custom,  on 
account  of  the  inconveniencies  it  entailed.  Very  often  the 
father  of  a  young  girl,  in  order  to  keep  in  his  service  a  man 
who  cost  him  nothing,  keeps  on  this  state  of  servitude  indefi 
nitely,  and  sometimes  dismisses  him  who  has  served  him  for 
two  or  three  years,  and  takes  another  under  the  same  title  of 
pretendant,  or  lover.  But  it  also  frequently  happens  that  if  the 
two  lovers  grow  impatient  for  the  celebration  of  the  marriage 
ceremony — for  "  hope  deferred  maketh  the  heart  sick," — some 
day  or  other  the  girl  takes  the  young  man  by  the  hair,  and 
presenting  him  to  the  curate  of  the  village,  tells  him  she 
has  just  run  away  with  her  lover,  therefore  they  must  be 
married.  The  wedding  ceremony  then  takes  place  without 
the  consent  of  the  parents.  But  were  the  young  man  to 
carry  off  the  young  girl,  he  would  be  severely  punished,  and 
she  restored  to  her  family. 

If  all  things  have  passed  off  in  good  order,  if  the  lover  has 
undergone  two  or  three  years  of  voluntary  slavery,  and  if  his 
future  relations  be  quite  satisfied  with  his  conduct  and  temper, 
then  comes  the  day  of  the  second  ceremony,  called  Tajin-bojol, 
"  the  young  man  desirous  of  tying  the  union  knot." 


INDIAN   LEGAL    ELOQUENCE  211 

This  second  ceremony  is  a  grand  festival-day.  The  rela 
tions  and  friends  of  both  families  are  all  assembled  at  the 
bride's  house,  and  divided  into  two  camps,  each  of  which  dis 
cusses  the  interests  of  the  young  couple ;  but  each  family  has 
an  advocate,  who  alone  has  the  right  to  speak  in  favour  of  his 
client.  The  relations  have  no  right  to  speak ;  they  only  make, 
in  a  low  tone  of  voice,  to  their  advocate,  the  observations  they 
think  fit. 

The  Indian  woman  never  brings  a  marriage  portion  with 
her.  When  she  takes  a  husband  unto  herself  she  possesses 
nothing;  the  young  man  alone  brings  the  portion,  and  this 
is  why  the  young  girl's  advocate  speaks  first,  and  asks  for  it,  in 
order  to  settle  the  basis  of  the  treaty. 

I  will  here  set  before  my  readers  the  speeches  of  two  advo 
cates  in  a  ceremony  of  this  kind,  at  which  I  had  the  curiosity 
to  be  present.  In  order  not  to  wound  the  susceptibility  of  the 
parties,  the  advocates  never  speak  but  in  allegorical  terms,  and 
at  the  ceremony  which  I  honoured  with  my  presence  the  advocate 
of  the  young  Indian  girl  thus  began  : — 

"  A  young  man  and  a  young  girl  were  joined  together  in 
the  holy  bands  of  wedlock ;  they  possesed  nothing — nay,  they 
had  not  even  a  shelter.  For  several  years  the  young  woman 
was  very  badly  off.  At  last  her  misfortunes  came  to  an  end, 
and  one  day  she  found  herself  in  a  fine  large  cottage  that 
was  her  own.  She  became  the  mother  of  a  pretty  little 
babe,  a  girl,  and  on  the  day  of  her  confinement  there  appeared 
unto  her  an  angel,  who  said  to  her: — *  Bear  in  mind  thy  mar 
riage,  and  the  time  of  penury  thou  didst  go  through.  The 
child  that  has  just  been  born  unto  thee  will  I  take  under  my 
protection.  When  she  will  have  grown  up  and  be  a  fine  lass, 
give  her  but  to  him  who  will  build  her  up  a  temple,  where 


212  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

there  will  be  ten  columns,  each  composed  of  ten  stones.  If 
thou  dost  not  execute  these  my  orders  thy  daughter  will  be  as 
miserable  as  thou  hast  been  thyself.'" 

After  this  short  speech,  the  adverse  advocate  replied: — 
"  Once  upon  a  time  there  lived  a  queen,  whose  kingdom  lay  on 
the  sea-side.  Amongst  the  laws  of  her  realm  there  was  one 
which  she  followed  with  the  greatest  rigour.  Every  ship 
arriving  in  her  states'  harbour  could,  according  to  that  law, 
cast  anchor  but  at  one  hundred  fathoms  deep,  and  he  who 
violated  the  said  law  was  put  to  death  without  pity  or  remorse. 
Now  it  came  to  pass  one  day  that  a  brave  captain  of  a  ship 
was  surprised  by  a  dreadful  tempest,  and  after  many  fruitless 
endeavours  to  save  his  vessel,  he  was  obliged  to  put  into  the 
queen's  harbour,  and  cast  anchor  there,  although  his  cable  was 
only  eighty  fathoms  long,  for  he  preferred  death  on  the  scaffold 
to  the  loss  of  his  ship  and  crew.  The  enraged  queen  com 
manded  him  to  her  audit  chamber.  He  obeyed,  and  throwing 
himself  at  her  feet,  told  her  that  necessity  alone  had  compelled 
him  to  infringe  upon  the  laws,  and  that,  having  but  eighty 
fathoms  long,  he  could  not  possibly  cast  out  a  hundred,  so 
he  besought  her  most  graciously  to  pardon  him." 

And  here  ended  his  speech,  but  the  other  advocate  took  it 
up,  and  thus  went  on : — 

"  The  queen,  moved  to  pity  by  the  prayer  of  the  suppliant 
captain,  and  his  inability  to  cast  his  anchor  one  hundred 
fathoms  deep,  instantly  pardoned  him,  and  well  did  she  devise." 

On  hearing  these  last  words  joy  shone  upon  every  counte 
nance,  and  the  musicians  began  playing  on  the  guitar.  The 
bride  and  bridegroom,  who  had  been  waiting  in  an  adjoining 
chamber,  now  made  their  appearance.  The  young  man  took 
from  off  his  neck  his  rosary,  or  string  of  beads,  put  it  round 


EXPLANATION    OF   THE    SPEECHES.  213 

the  young  girl's  neck,  and  took  back  hers  in  lieu  of  the  one 
he  had  given  her.  The  night  was  spent  in  dancing  and  merri 
ment,  and  the  marriage  ceremony— just  as  Christian-like  as  our 
own — was  arranged  to  take  place  in  a  week. 

I  shall  now,  just  as  I  heard  it  myself,  give  the  explanation 
of  the  advocates'  speeches,  which  I  did  not  entirely  understand. 
The  bride's  mother  had  married  without  a  wedding  portion 
on  her  husband's  side,  so  she  had  gone  through  very  adverse 
and  pinching  circumstances.  The  temple  that  the  angel  had 
told  her  to  demand  for  her  daughter  was,  a  house ;  and  the 
ten  columns,  composed  of  ten  stones  each,  signified  that  with 
the  house  a  sum  of  one  hundred  piasters  would  be  requisite — 
that  is,  twenty  pounds  sterling. 

The  speech  of  the  young  man's  advocate  explained  that  ho 
would  give  the  house,  as  he  said  nothing  about  it ;  but,  being 
worth  only  eighty  piasters,  he  threw  himself  at  the  feet  of  the 
parents  of.  his  betrothed,  that  the  twenty  piasters  which  he 
was  minus,  might  offer  no  obstacle  to  his  marriage.  The 
pardon  accorded  by  the  queen  signified  the  grace  shown  to  the 
young  man,  who  was  accepted  with  his  eighty  piasters  only. 

The  servitude  which  precedes  matrimony,  and  of  which  I 
have  spoken,  was  practised  long  before  the  conquest  of  these 
isles  by  the  Spaniards.  This  would  seem  to  prove  the  origin 
I  attribute  to  the  Tagalocs,  whom  I  believe  to  be  descended 
from  the  Malays,  and  these  latter,  being  all  Mussulmans, 
would  naturally  have  preserved  some  of  the  ancient  patriarchal 
customs. 

Believing  that  I  have  sufficiently  described  the  Indians 
and  their  habits,  I  will  now  introduce  to  my  readers  tvvc 
species  of  monsters  that  I  have  often  had  occasion  to  observe, 
and  even  to  combat — the  one  a  denizen  of  forests,  the  "boa  con 


214  TWENTY   YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES 

stricter ;  the  other  of  lakes  and  rivers,  the  cayman  or  alligator. 
At  the  period  at  which  I  first  occupied  my  habitation,  and 
began  to  colonise  the  village  of  Jala-Jala,  caymans  abounded 
on  that  side  of  the  lake.  From  my  windows  I  daily  saw  them 
sporting  in  the  water,  and  waylaying  and  snapping  at  the  dogs 
that  ventured  too  near  the  brink.  One  day,  a  female  servant 
of  my  wife's,  having  been  so  imprudent  as  to  bathe  at  the  edge 
of  the  lake,  was  surprised  by  one  of  them,  a  monster  of  enor 
mous  size.  One  of  my  guards  came  up  at  the  moment  she 
was  being  carried  off ;  he  fired  his  musket  at  the  brute,  and  hit 
it  under  the  fore-leg,  or  arm-pit,  which  is  the  only  vulnerable 
part.  But  the  wound  was  insufficient  to  check  the  cayman's 
progress,  and  it  disappeared  with  its  prey.  Nevertheless,  this 
little  bullet  hole  was  the  cause  of  its  death  ;  and  here  it  is  to 
be  observed,  that  the  slightest  wound  received  by  the  cayman  is 
incurable.  The  shrimps  which  abound  in  the  lake  get  into 
the  orifice,  gradually  their  number  increases,  until  at  last  they 
penetrate  deep  into  the  solid  flesh,  and  into  the  very  interior  of 
the  body.  This  is  what  happened  to  the  one  which  devoured 
my  wife's  maid.  A  month  after  the  frightful  occurrence  the 
cayman  was  found  dead  upon  the  bank,  five  or  six  leagues 
from  my  house.  Some  Indians  brought  back  to  me  the  unfor 
tunate  woman's  earrings,  which  they  had  found  in  the  monster's 
stomach. 

Upon  another  occasion,  a  Chinese  was  riding  onwards  in 
advance  of  me.  We  reached  a  river,  and  I  let  him  go  on 
alone,  in  order  to  ascertain  whether  the  river  was  very  deep 
or  not.  Suddenly,  three  or  four  caymans  which  lay  in  wait 
ing  under  the  water,  threw  themselves  upon  him ;  horse  and 
rider  disappeared,  and  for  some  minutes  afterwards  tne  water 
was  tinged  with  blood. 


FEROCITY  OF  THE  CAYMANS.  215 

I  was  curious  to  obtain  a  near  view  of  one  of  these  voracious 
animals,  and,  at  the  time  when  they  frequented  the  vicinity  of 
my  house,  I  made  several  attempts  to  accomplish  my  wishes. 
One  night  I  baited  a  huge  hook,  secured  by  a  chain  and  strong 
cord,  with  an  entire  sheep.  Next  morning,  sheep  and  chain 
had  disappeared.  I  lay  in  wait  for  the  creatures  with  my  gun, 
but  the  bullets  rebounded,  half  flattened  upon  their  scales, 
without  doing  the  slightest  injury.  One  evening  that  a  large 
dog  of  mine  had  died,  belonging  to  a  race  peculiar  to  the 
Philippines,  and  exceeding  in  size  any  of  the  canine  species  of 
Europe,  I  had  his  carcass  dragged  to  the  shore  of  the  lake, 
and  hid  myself  in  a  little  thicket,  with  my  gun  ready  cocked, 
in  the  event  of  any  cayman  presenting  itself  to  carry  off  the 
bait.  Presently  I  fell  asleep  ;  when  I  awoke,  the  dog  had  dis 
appeared,  the  cayman,  luckily  for  me,  not  mistaking  his  prey. 

In  the  course  of  a  few  years'  time,  these  monsters  had  dis 
appeared  from  the  environs  of  Jala-Jala;  but  one  morning, 
when  out  with  my  shepherds,  at  some  leagues'  distance  from 
my  house,  we  came  to  a  river,  which  could  only  be  crossed  by 
swimming.  One  of  my  people  said  to  me  : 

"  Master,  the  water  is  deep  here,  and  we  are  in  the  courses 
where  the  caymans  abound ;  an  accident  soon  happens,  let  us 
try  further  up  the  river,  and  pass  over  in  a  shallower  spot." 

We  were  about  to  follow  this  advice,  when  another  man,  more 
rash  than  his  comrades,  said :  "  I'm  not  afraid  of  caymans  !  " 
and  spurred  his  horse  into  the  stream.  He  had  scarcely  got 
half-way  across,  when  we  perceived  a  monstrous  cayman  rise 
and  advance  to  meet  him.  We  uttered  a  warning  shout,  the 
Indian  himself  perceived  the  danger,  threw  himself  from  his 
horse,  and  swam,  for  the  bank  with  all  his  strength.  He  had 
aiready  reached  it,  but  imprudently  stopped  behind  the  truni 


216  TWENTY    YEARS   IN   THE    PHILIPPINES. 

of  a  tree  that  had  been  felled  by  the  force  of  the  current, 
and  where  he  had  the  water  up  to  his  knees.  Believing  him 
self  secure,  he  drew  his  cutlass,  and  watched  the  movements  of 
the  cayman,  which,  meanwhile,  had  reached  the  horse  just  as, 
the  Indian  quitted  the  animal.  Rearing  his  enormous  head 
out  of  the  water,  the  monster  threw  himself  upon  the  steed 
and  seized  him  by  the  saddle.  The  horse  made  a  violent 
effort,  the  girths  broke,  and  thus  enabled  him  to  reach  the 
shore.  Soon,  however,  finding  that  his  prey  had  escaped,  the 
cayman  dropped  the  saddle,  and  made  towards  the  Indian. 
We  perceived  this  movement,  and  quickly  cried  out:  "Run, 
run,  or  the  cayman  will  have  you  !;'  The  Indian,  however, 
would  not  stir,  but  calmly  waited,  cutlass  in  hand.  The 
monster  advanced  towards  him  ;  the  Indian  struck  him  a  blow 
on  the  head,  which  took  no  more  effect  than  a  flip  of  the 
fingers  would  have  on  the  horns  of  a  bull.  The  cayman  made 
a  spring,  seized  him  by  one  of  his  thighs,  and  for  more  than  a 
minute  we  beheld  my  poor  shepherd — his  body  erect  above  the 
surface  of  the  water,  his  hands  joined,  his  eyes  tumed  to 
heaven,  in  the  attitude  of  a  man  imploring  Divine  mercy — 
dragged  back  again  into  the  lake.  The  drama  was  over :  the 
cayman's  stomach  was  his  tomb.  During  these  agonizing 
moments,  we  all  remained  silent,  but  no  sooner  had  my  poor 
shepherd  disappeared  than  we  all  swore  to  avenge  him. 

I  caused  to  be  made  three  nets  of  strong  cords,  each  of 
of  which  nets  was  large  enough  to  form  a  complete  barrier 
across  the  river.  I  also  had  a  hut  built,  and  put  an  Indian  to 
live  in  it,  whose  duty  was  to  keep  constant  watch,  and  to  let 
me  know  as  soon  as  the  cayman  returned  to  the  river.  He 
watched  in  vain,  for  upwards  of  two  months,  but  at  the  end  of 
that  time  he  came  and  told  me  that  the  monster  had  seized 


ENTRAPPING    THE    CAYMAN  }il7 

a  horse,  and  had  dragged  it  into  the  river  to  devour  at  leisure. 
I  immediately  repaired  to  the  spot,  accompanied  by  my  guards, 
and  by  my  priest,  who  positively  would  see  a  cayman  hunt, 
and  by  an  American  friend  of  mine,  Mr.  Russell,*  who  was 
then  staying  with  me.  I  had  the  nets  spread  at  intervals,  so 
that  the  cayman  could  not  escape  back  into  the  lake.  This 
operation  was  not  effected  without  some  acts  of  imprudence  ; 
thus,  for  instance,  when  the  nets  were  arranged,  an  Indian 
dived  to  make  sure  that  they  were  at  the  bottom,  and  that  our 
enemy  could  not  escape  by  passing  below  them.  But  it  might 
very  well  have  happened  that  the  cayman  was  in  the  interval 
between  the  nets,  and  so  have  gobbled  up  my  Indian.  Fortu 
nately  everything  passed  off  as  we  wished.  When  all  was 
ready,  I  launched  three  pirogues,  strongly  fastened  together, 
side  by  side,  with  some  Indians  in  the  centre,  armed  with 
lances,  and  with  long  bamboos,  with  which  they  could  touch 
the  bottom.  At  last,  all  measures  having  been  taken  to  attain 
my  end,  without  risk  of  accident,  my  indians  began  to  explore 
the  river  with  their  long  bamboos. 

An  animal  so  formidable  in  size  as  the  one  we  were  in 
search  of,  could  not  hide  himself  very  easily,  and  soon  we  be 
held  him  on  the  surface  of  the  river,  lashing  the  water  with 
his  long  tail,  snapping  and  clattering  with  his  jaws,  and  en 
deavouring  to  get  at  those  who  disturbed  him  in  his  retreat. 
A  universal  shout  of  joy  greeted  his  appearance ;  the  Indians 
in  the  pirogues  hurled  their  lances  at  him,  whilst  we,  upon 
either  shore  of  the  lake,  fired  a  volley.  The  bullets  rebounded 
from  the  monster's  scales,  which  they  were  unable  to  pene 
trate  ;  the  keener  lances  made  their  way  between  the  scales, 

*  Of  the  house  of  Russell  and  Sturges,  a  good  and  true  friend,  the 
recollection  of  whom,  often  present  to  my  mind,  will  never  be  effaced. 


218  TWENTY   YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

and  entered  into  the  cayman's  body  some  eight  or  ten  inches. 
Thereupon  he  disappeared,  swimming  with  incredible  rapidity, 
and  reached  the  first  net.      The  resistance  it  opposed  turned 
him  back ;  he  re-ascended  the  river,  and  again  appeared  on  the 
top  of  the  water.     This  violent  movement,  broke  the  staves  of 
the  lances  which  the  Indians  had  stuck  into  him,  and  the  iron 
alone  remained  in  the  wounds.     Each  time  that  he  appeared 
the  firing  recommenced,  and  fresh  lances  were  plunged  into  his 
enormous   body.      Perceiving,  however,  how   ineffectual  fire 
arms  were  to  pierce  his  cuirass  of  invulnerable  scales,  I  excited 
him  by  my  shouts  and  gestures,  and  when  he  came  to  the 
edge  of  the  water,  opening  his  enormous  jaws  all  ready  to 
devour  me,  I  approached  the  muzzle  of  my  gun  to  within  a 
few  inches,  and  fired  both  barrels,  in  the  hope  that  the  bullets 
would  find  something  softer  than  scales  in  the  interior  of  that 
formidable  cavern,  and  that  they  would  penetrate  to  his  brain. 
All  was  futile.     The  jaws  closed  with  a  terrible  noise,  seizing 
only  the  fire  and  smoke  that  issued  from  my  gun,  and  the 
balls  flattened  against  his  bones  without  injuring  them.      The 
animal,  which  had  now  become  furious,   made  inconceivable 
efforts  to  seize  one  of  his  enemies;  his  strength  seemed  to 
increase,  rather  than  to  diminish,  whilst  our  resources  were 
nearly  exhausted.     Almost  all  our  lances  were  sticking  in  his 
body,   and  our  ammunition  drew  to   an  end.     The  fight  had 
lasted  more  than  six  hours,  without  any  result  that  could  make 
us  hope  for  its  speedy  termination,  when  an  Indian  struck  the 
cayman,  whilst  at  the  bottom  of  the  water,  with  a  lance  of  un 
usual   strength  and  size.     Another  Indian,  at  his  comrade's 
request,  struck  two  vigorous  blows  with  a  mace  upon  the  but- 
end  of  the  lance ;   the  iron  entered  deep  into  the  animal's 
body,  and  immediately,  with  a  movement  as  swift  as  lightning, 


CAPTURE    AND    DEATH    OF   THE    MONSTER.  219 

oe  darted  towards  the  nets  and  disappeared.  The  lance  pole, 
detached  from  the  iron  head,  returned  to  the  surface  of  the 
water;  for  some  minutes  we  waited  in  vuin  for  the  monster's 
re-appearance ;  we  thought  that  his  last  effort  had  enabled  him 
to  reach  the  lake,  and  that  our  chase  would  result  fruitlessly. 


Attacking  the  Cayman. 

We  hauled  in  the  first  net,  a  large  hole  in  which  convinced 
us  that  our  supposition  was  correct.  The  second  net  was  in 
the  same  condition  as  the  first.  Disheartened  hy  our  failure, 
we  were  hauling  in  the  third,  when  we  felt  a  strong  resistance. 
Several  of  the  Indians  began  to  drag  it  towards  the  bank, 


TWENTY    YEAttS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

and  presently,  to  our  great  joy,  we  saw  the  cayman  upon  the 
surface  of  the  water.  He  was  expiring.  We  threw  over  him 
several  lassos  of  strong  cords,  and  when  he  was  well  secured. 
we  drew  him  to  land.  It  was  no  easy  matter  to  haul  him 
up  on  the  bank;  the  strength  of  forty  Indians  hardly  sufficed. 
When  at  last  we  had  got  him  completely  out  of  the  water,  and 
had  him  before  our  eyes,  we  stood  stupified  with  astonish 
ment,  for  it  was  a  very  different  thing  to  see  his  body  thus 
and  to  see  him  swimming,  when  he  was  fighting  against  us 
Mr.  Russell,  a  very  competent  person,  was  charged  with  his 
measurements.  From  the  extremity  of  his  nostrils  to  the  tip 
of  his  tail,  he  was  found  to  be  twenty -seven  feet  long,  and  his 
circumference  was  eleven  feet,  measured  under  the  arm -pits. 
His  belly  was  much  more  voluminous,  but  we  thought  it 
unnecessary  to  measure  him  there,  judging  that  the  horse  upon 
which  he  had  breakfasted  must  considerably  have  increased 
his  bulk. 

This  process  at  an  end,  we  took  counsel  as  to  what  we  should 
do  with  the  dead  cayman.  Every  one  gave  his  opinion.  My 
wish  was  to  convey  it  bodily  to  my  residence,  but  that  was 
impossible ;  it  would  have  required  a  vessel  of  five  or  six  tons 
burthen,  and  we  could  not  procure  such  a  craft.  One  man 
wanted  the  skin,  the  Indians  begged  for  the  flesh,  to  dry  it. 
and  use  it  as  a  specific  against  asthma.  They  affirm,  that  any 
asthmatic  person  who  nourishes  himself  for  a  certain  time 
with  this  flesh,  is  infallibly  cured.  Somebody  else  desired  to 
have  the  fat,  as  an  antidote  to  rheumatic  pains ;  and,  finally, 
my  worthy  priest  demanded  that  the  stomach  should  be  opened, 
in  order  to  ascertain  how  many  Christians  the  monster  had 
devoured.  Every  time,  he  said,  that  a  cayman  eats  a  Chris 
tian  he  swallows  a  large  pebble  ;  thus,  the  number  of  pebblea 


DISSECTION    AND    CONTENTS    OF    ITS    STOMACH.  2121 

we  should  find  in  him  would  positively  indicate  the  number  of 
the  faithful  to  whom  his  enormous  stomach  had  afforded  sepul 
ture.  To  satisfy  everybody,  I  sent  for  an  axe  wherewith,  to 
cut  off  the  head,  which  I  reserved  for  myself,  abandoning  the 
rest  of  the  carcass  to  all  who  had  taken  part  in  the  capture.  It 
was  no  easy  matter  to  decapitate  the  monster.  The  axe  buried 
itself  in  the  flesh  to  half-way  up  the  handle  without  reaching  the 
bones  ;  at  last,  after  many  efforts,  we  succeeded  in  getting  the 
head  off.  Then  we  opened  the  stomach,  and  took  out  of  it,  by 
fragments,  the  horse  which  had  been  devoured  by  the  monster 
that  morning.  The  cayman  does  not  masticate,  he  snaps  off 
a  huge  lump  with  his  teeth,  and  swallows  it  entire.  Thus  we 
found  the  whole  of  the  horse,  divided  only  into  seven  or  eight 
pieces.  Then  we  came  to  about  a  hundred  and  fifty  pounds' 
weight  of  pebbles,  varying  from  the  size  of  a  fist  to  that  of 
a  walnut.  When  my  priest  saw  this  great  quantity  of  stones  : 

"  It  is  a  mere  tale,"  he  could  not  help  saying;  "it  is  im 
possible  that  this  animal  could  have  devoured  so  great  a  num 
ber  of  Chrstians." 

It  was  eight  o'clock  at  night  when  we  had  finished  the  cut 
ting  up.  I  left  the  body  to  our  assistants,  and  had  the  head 
placed  in  a  boat  to  convey  it  to  my  house.  I  very  much  de 
sired  to  preserve  this  monstrous  trophy  as  nearly  as  possible  iu 
the  state  in  which  it  then  was,  but  that  would  have  required 
a  great  quantity  of  arsenical  soap,  and  I  was  out  of  that 
chemical.  So  I  made  up  my  mind  to  dissect  it,  and  preserve 
the  skeleton.  I  weighed  it  before  detaching  the  ligaments; 
its  weight  was  four  hundred  and  fifty  pounds ;  its  length,  from 
the  nose  to  the  first  vertebne,  five  feet  six  inches. 

I  found  all  my  bullets,  which  had  become  flattened  against 
the  bones  of  the  jaws  and  palate  as  they  would  have  done 


222  TWENTY   YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

against  a  plate  of  iron.  The  lance  thrust  which  had  slain  the 
cayman  was  a  chance — a  sort  of  miracle.  When  the  Indian 
struck  with  his  mace  upon  the  but-end  of  the  pole,  the  iron 
pierced  through  the  nape,  into  the  vertebral  column,  and 
penetrated  the  spinal  marrow,  the  only  vulnerable  part. 

When  this  formidable  head  was  well  prepared,  and  the 
bones  dried  and  whitened,  I  had  the  pleasure  of  presenting 
it  to  my  friend  Russell,  who  has  since  deposited  it  in  the 
museum  at  Boston,  United  States. 

The  other  monster,  of  which  I  have  promised  a  descrip 
tion,  is  the  boa-constrictor.  The  species  is  common  in  the 
Philippines,  but  it  is  rare  to  meet  with  a  specimen  of  very 
large  dimensions.  It  is  possible,  nay  probable,  that  centuries 
of  time  are  necessary  for  this  reptile  to  attain  its  largest 
size ;  and  to  such  an  age,  the  various  accidents  to  which 
animals  are  exposed,  rarely  suffer  it  to  attain.  Full-sized 
boas  are  consequently  to  be  met  with  only  in  the  gloomiest, 
most  remote,  and  most  solitary  forests. 

I  have  seen  many  boas  of  ordinary  size,  such  as  are 
found  in  our  European  collections.  There  were  some,  indeed, 
that  inhabited  my  house,  and  one  night  I  found  one,  two  yards 
long,  in  possession  of  my  bed.  Several  times,  when  passing 
through  the  woods  with  my  Indians,  I  heard  the  piercing 
cries  of  a  wild  boar.  On  approaching  the  spot  whence  they  pro 
ceeded,  we  almost  invariably  found  a  wild  boar,  about  whose 
body  a  boa  had  twisted  its  folds,  and  was  gradually  hoisting 
him  up  into  the  tree  round  which  it  had  coiled  itself. 

When  the  wild  boar  had  reached  a  certain  height,  the 
snake  pressed  him  against  a  tree  with  a  force  that  crushed 
his  bones  and  stified  him.  Then  the  boa  let  its  prey  fall, 
descended  the  tree,  and  prepared  to  swallow  it.  This  last 


iLD    BOAK    ATTACKED    BY    A    BOA    CONSTRICTOR. — Page  222. 


BOA-CONSTE1CTOIIS.  223 

operation  was  much  too  lengthy  for  us  to  await  its  end.  To 
simplify  matters,  I  sent  a  ball  into  the  boa's  head.  My 
Indians  took  the  flesh  to  dry  it  for  food,  and  the  skin  to  make 
dagger  sheaths  of.  It  is  unnecessary  to  say  that  the  wild  boar  was 
not  forgotten,  although  it  was  a  prey  that  had  cost  us  but  little 
trouble  to  secure.  One  day  an  Indian  surprised  one  of  these 
reptiles  asleep,  after  it  had  swallowed  an  enormous  deer. 
Its  size  was  so  great,  that  a  buffalo  waggon  would  have  been 
necessary  to  transport  it  to  the  village.  The  Indian  cut  it 
in  pieces,  and  contented  himself  with  as  much  as  he  could  carry 
off.  Having  been  informed  of  this,  I  sent  after  the  remains, 
and  my  people  brought  me  a  piece  about  eight  feet  long,  and 
so  large  in  circumference  that  the  skin,  when  dried,  en 
veloped  the  tallest  man  like  a  cloak.  I  presented  it  to  my  friend 
Hamilton  Lindsay. 

I  had  not  yet  seen  any  of  these  largest  sized  serpents  alive, 
when,  one  afternoon,  crossing  the  mountains  with  two  of  my 
shepherds,  our  attention  was  drawn  to  the  constant  barking 
of  my  dogs,  which  seemed  to  be  assailing  some  animal  that 
stood  upon  its  defence.  We  at  first  thought  that  it  was  a 
buffalo  that  they  had  roused  from  its  lair,  and  approached  the 
spot  with  due  caution.  My  dogs  were  dispersed  along  the 
brink  of  a  deep  ravine,  in  which  was  an  enormous  boa  con 
strictor.  The  monster  raised  his  head  to  a  height  of  five  or 
six  feet,  directing  it  from  one  edge  to  the  other  of  the  ravine, 
and  menacing  his  assailants  with  his  forked  tongue ;  but  the 
dogs,  more  active  than  he  was,  easily  avoided  his  attacks.  My 
first  impulse  was  to  shoot  him ;  but  then  it  occurred  to  me  to 
take  him  alive,  and  to  send  him  to  France.  Assuredly  he 
would  have  been  the  most  monstrous  boa  that  had  ever  been 
seen  there.  To  carry  my  design  into  execution  we  manufactured 


TWKNTY    YEARS   IN    THE    PHILIPP1NFS. 


'  •     ;'\^ 


Attacking  the  Boa-Constrictor. 

nooses  of  cane,  strong  enough  to  resist  the  efforts  of  the  most 
powerful  wild  buffalo.  With  great  precaution  we  succeeded 
in  passing  one  of  our  nooses  round  the  boa's  neck ;  then  we 
tied  him  tightly  to  a  tree,  in  such  a  manner  as  to  keep  his  head 
at  its  usual  height— ^about  six  feet  from  the  ground.  This 
done,  we  crossed  to  the  other  side  of  the  ravine,  and  threw 
another  noose  over  him,  which  we  secured  like  the  first.  When 
he  felt  himself  thus  fixed  at  both  ends,  he  coiled  and  writhed, 
and  grappled  several  little  trees  which  grew  within  his  reach 
along  the  edge  of  the  ravine.  Unluckily  for  him  everything 
yielded  to  his  efforts  ;  he  tore  up  the  young  trees  by  the  roots, 


A  BOA-CONSTRICTOR   DEVOURS   A    MAN.  225 

broke  off  the  branches,  and  dislodged  enormous  stones,  round 
which  he  sought  in  vain  to  obtain  the  hold  or  point  of  resist 
ance  he  needed.  The  nooses  were  strong,  and  withstood  his 
almost  furious  efforts. 

To  convey  an  animal  like  this,  several  buffaloes  and  a  whole 
system  of  cordage  were  necessary.  Night  approached ;  con 
fident  in  our  nooses,  we  left  the  place,  proposing  to  return 
next  morning  and  complete  the  capture ;  but  we  reckoned 
without  our  host.  In  the  night  the  boa  changed  his  tactics, 
got  his  body  round  some  huge  blocks  of  basalt,  and  finally 
succeeded  in  breaking  his  bonds  and  getting  clear  off.  When  I 
had  assured  myself  that  our  prey  had  escaped  us,  and  that  all 
search  for  the  reptile  in  the  neighbourhood  would  be  futile,  my 
disappointment  was  very  great,  for  I  much  doubted  if  a  like  op 
portunity  would  ever  present  itself.  It  is  only  on  rare  occasions 
that  accidents  are  caused  by  these  enormous  reptiles.  I  once 
knew  of  a  man  becoming  their  victim.  It  happened  thus  : — 

This  man  having  committed  some  offence,  ran  away,  and 
sought  refuge  in  a  cavern.  His  father,  who  alone  knew  the 
place  of  his  concealment,  visited  him  occasionally  to  supply  him 
with  food.  One  day  he  found,  in  place  of  his  son,  an  enor 
mous  boa  sleeping.  He  killed  it,  and  found  his  son  in  its 
stomach.  The  poor  wretch  had  been  surprised  in  the  night, 
crashed  to  death,  and  swallowed.  The  curate  of  the  village,  who 
had  gone  in  quest  of  the  body  to  give  it  burial,  and  who  saw 
the  remains  of  the  boa,  .described  them  to  me  as  being  of  an 
almost  incredible  size.  Unfortunately  this  circumstance  hap 
pened  at  a  considerable  distance  from  my  habitation,  and  I  was 
only  made  acquainted  with  the  particulars  when  it  was  too 
late  to  verify  them  myself:  but  still  there  is  nothing  sur 
prising  that  a  boa  which  can  swallow  a  deer  should  as  easiTy 


220  TWENTY    TEAKS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

swallow  a  man.  Several  other  feats  of  a  similar  nature  were 
related  to  me  by  the  Indians.  They  told  me  of  their  com 
rades,  who,  roaming  about  the  woods,  had  been  seized  by  boas, 
crushed  against  trees,  and  afterwards  devoured,  but  I  was 
always  on  my  guard  against  Indian  tales,  and  I  am  only  able 
to  verify  positively  the  instance,  I  have  just  cited,  which 
was  related  to  me  by  the  curate  of  the  village,  as  weil  as  by 
many  other  witnesses.  Still  there  would  be  nothing  surprising 
that  a  similar  accident  should  occur  more  than  once. 

The  boa  is  one  of  the  serpents  the  least  to  be  feared 
among  those  infesting  the  Philippines.  Of  an  exceedingly 
venomous  description  is  one  which  the  Indians  call  dajon-palaij, 
(rice  leaf).  Burning  with  a  red-hot  ember  is  the  only  antidote 
to  its  bite ;  if  that  be  not  promptly  resorted  to,  horrible  suf 
ferings  are  followed  by  certain  death.  The  alin-morani  is 
another  kind,  eight  or  ten  feet  long,  and,  if  anything,  more 
dangerous  still  than  the  "  rice  leaf,"  inasmuch  as  its  bite  is 
deeper,  and  more  difficult  to  cauterise.  I  wras  never  bitten 
by  any  of  these  reptiles,  despite  the  slight  precaution  I  observed 
in  wandering  about  the  woods,  by  night  as  well  as  by  day. 

Twice  only  I  endangered  myself:  the  first  time  was  by 
treading  upon  a  dajon-palay ;  I  w?as  warned  by  a  movement 
under  my  foot.  I  pressed  hard  with  that  leg,  and  saw  the 
snake's  little  head  stretching  out  to  bite  me  on  the  ankle ; 
fortunately  my  foot  was  on  him  at  so  short  a  distance  from 
his  head  that  he  could  not  get  at  me.  I  drew  my  dagger, 
and  cut  off  his  head.  On  another  occasion,  I  noticed  two 
eagles  rising  and  falling  like  arrows  amongst  the  bushes, 
always  at  the  same  place.  Curious  to  see  what  kind  of  anima. 
they  were  attacking,  I  approached  the  place ;  but  no  sooner 
had  I  done  so,  than  an  enormous  alin-morani,  furious  with  tne 


DANGEROUS    VENEMOUS    REPTILES.  227 

wounds  the  eagles  had  inflicted  on  him,  advanced  to  meet  me. 
I  retreated ;  he  coiled  himself  up,  gave  a  spring,  and  almost 
caught  me  on  the  face.  By  an  instantaneous  movement,  I  made 
a  spring  backwards,  and  avoided  him  ;  but  I  took  care  not  to 
turn  my  back  and  run,  for  then  I  should  have  been  lost.  The 
serpent  returned  to  the  charge,  bounding  towards  me;  I 
again  avoided  him,  and  was  trying,  but  in  vain,  to  reach  him 
with  my  dagger,  when  an  Indian,  who  perceived  me  from  a 
distance,  ran  up,  armed  with  a  stout  switch,  and  rid  me 
of  him. 


'm 


Rice  Stacking  m  ths  Philippines. 


CHAPTEE    XI. 

The  Prosperity  and  Happiness  of  my  Life  at  Jala-Jala — Destructiveness  of  the 
Locusts — Agriculture  in  the  Philippines — My  Herds  of  Oxen,  Buffaloes,  and 
Horses — My  Wife  presents  me  with  a  Daughter,  who  Dies — The  Admiration 
of  the  Indian  Women  for  my  Wife — Birth  of  my  Son — Continued  Prosperity 
— Death  of  my  brother  Henry — My  Friendship  with  Malvilain— His  Mar 
riage  with  my  eldest  Sister — His  Premature  Death — I  take  my  Wife  to 
Manilla— Melancholy  Adieus — We  Return  to  Jala-Jala — Death  of  my  Wife 
— My  friend  Vidie — I  determine  to  Return  to  France. 

\TEVER  was  life  more  actively  spent,  or  more  crowded  with 
•*•*  emotions,  than  the  time  I  passed  at  Jala-Jala,  but  it  suited 
my  tastes  and  my  character,  and  I  enjoyed  as  perfect  happi 


DESTRUCTIVENESS    OF    THE    LOCUSTS.  229 

ness  as  one  can  look  for  when  far  away  from  ore's  home  and 
country.  My  Anna  was  to  me  an  angel  of  goodness ;  my 
Indians  were  happy,  peace  and  plenty  smiled  upon  their 
families ;  my  fields  were  covered  with  abundant  corps,  and  my 
pasturages  with  numerous  herds.  It  was  not,  however, 
without  great  difficulty  and  much  toil  that  I  accomplished  my 
aim ;  how  often  did  I  find  all  my  courage  and  all  my  philo 
sophy  necessary  to  face,  without  despair,  reverses  which  it  was 
impossible  for  me  to  avoid  ?  How  often  did  I  behold  hur 
ricanes  and  inundations  destroy  the  fine  harvest  that  I  had 
protected  with  so  much  labour  against  the  buffaloes,  the 
wild  boars,  the  monkeys,  and  even  against  an  insect  more 
destructive  still  than  all  the  other  pests  which  I  have  just 
mentioned — the  locust,  one  of  the  plagues  of  Egypt,  apparently 
transported  into  this  province,  and  which  almost  regularly, 
every  seven  years,  leave  the  isles  of  the  south  in  clouds,  and 
fall  upon  Luzon,  bringing  desolation,  and  often  famine.  It 
is  indeed  necessary  to  have  witnessed  this  desolation  to  be  able 
to  form  any  idea  of  it.  When  the  locusts  arrive,  a  fire- 
coloured  cloud  is  perceived  in  the  horizon,  formed  of  countless 
myriads  of  these  destructive  insects.  They  fly  rapidly,  often 
covering,  in  a  closely  packed  body,  a  space  of  two  or  three 
leagues  in  diameter,  and  occupy  from  five  to  six  consecutive 
hours  in  passing  over  head.  If  they  perceive  a  fine  green 
field  they  pounce  down  upon  it,  and  in  a  few  minutes  all  verdure 
has  disappeared,  the  ground  is  stripped  completely  bare; 
they  then  continue  their  flight  elsewhere,  bearing  on  their 
wings  destruction  and  famine.  At  evening  it  is  in  the  forests, 
upon  the  trees,  that  they  take  shelter.  They  hang  in  such 
dense  masses  upon  the  ends  of  the  boughs  that  they  break 
down  even  the  stoutest  limbs  from  the  trees.  During  \~he  night, 


230  TWENTY    Y10ARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 


The  Locust. 


from  the  spot  where  they  are  reposing,  there  issues  a  con 
tinual  croaking,  and  so  loud  a  noise,  that  one  scarcely  believes 
it  to  be  produced  by  so  small  an  insect.  The  following 
morning  they  leave  at  day-break,  and  the  trees  upon  which 
they  have  reposed  are  left  stripped  and  broken,  as  though  the 
lightning  had  swept  the  forest  in  every  direction ;  they 
pursue  their  course  elsewhere  to  commit  fresh  ravages.  At 
certain  periods  they  remain  on  vast  plains  or  on  fertile  moun 
tains  ;  where,  elongating  the  extremity  of  their  bodies  in  the 
form  of  a  gimblet,  they  pierce  the  earth  to  the  depth  of  an 
inch  and  upwards  to  deposit  their  eggs.  The  operation  of 
laying  being  completed,  they  leave  the  ground  pierced  like  a 
sieve,  and  disappear,  for  their  existence  has  now  reached  its 
termination.  Three  weeks  afterwards,  however,  the  eggs  open, 
and  myriads  of  young  locusts  swarm  the  earth.  On  the  spot 
where  they  are  born,  whatever  will  serve  them  for  food  is 
quickly  consumed.  As  soon  as  they  have  acquired  sufficient 
strength  they  abandon  their  birth-place,  destroy  all  kinds  of 
vegetation  that  comes  in  their  way,  and  direct  their  course  to 
the  cultivated  fields,  which  they  desolate  until  the  period  when 


AGRICULTURE    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES.  231 

their  wings  appear.     They  then  take  flight  in  order  to  devas 
tate  more  distant  plantations. 

As  may  be  seen,  agriculture  in  the  Philippines  presents 
many  difficulties,  but  it  also  yields  results  that  may  be  looked 
for  in  vain  in  any  other  country.  During  the  years  which  are 
exempt  from  the  calamities  I  have  described  the  earth  is  covered 
with  riches  ;  every  kind  of  colonial  produce  is  raised  in  extra 
ordinary  abundance,  frequently  in  the  proportion  of  eighty  to 
one,  and  on  many  plantations  two  crops  of  the  same  species 
are  harvested  in  one  year.  The  rich  and  extensive  pasturages 
offer  great  facilities  for  raising  a  large  number  of  cattle,  which 
absolutely  cost  nothing  but  the  trifling  wages  paid  by  the  pro 
prietor  to  a  few  shepherds. 

Upon  my  property  I  possessed  three  herds — one  of  three 
thousand  head  of  oxen,  another  of  eight  hundred  buffaloes, 
and  the  other  of  six  hundred  horses.  At  that  period  of  the 
year  when  the  rice  was  harvested,  the  shepherds  explored  the 
mountains,  and  drove  these  animals  to  a  vast  plain  at  a  short 
distance  from  my  dwelling.  This  plain  was  covered  by  these 
three  species  of  domesticated  animals,  and  presented,  espe 
cially  to  the  proprietor,  an  admirable  sight.  At  night  they 
were  herded  in  large  cattle-folds,  near  the  village,  and  on  the 
following  day  a  selection  was  made  of  the  oxen  that  were  fit 
for  slaughter,  of  the  horses  that  were  old  enough  for  breaking- 
in,  of  the  buffaloes  that  were  strong  enough  to  be  employed 
in  working.  The  herds  were  then  re-driven  to  the  plain,  there 
to  remain  until  night.  This  operation  lasted  during  a  fort 
night,  after  which  time  the  animals  were  set  at  liberty  until  the 
same  period  of  the  following  year.  When  at  liberty  the  herd 
divided  itself  into  bands,  and  thus  roamed  about  the  mountains 
and  the  valleys  they  had  previously  quitted,  the  only  trouble 


232  TWENTY   YEAES    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

caused  to  the  shepherds  being  an  occasional  ramble  about  the 
spots  where  the  animals  tranquilly  grazed. 

Around  me  all  was  prosperity.  My  Indians  were  also  happy, 
and  entertained  towards  me  a  respect  and  obedience  bordering 
on  idolatry.  My  brother  gave  me  every  assistance  in  my 
labours,  and  when  near  my  beloved  Anna  I  forgot  all  the  toils 
and  the  contrarieties  I  had  experienced.  About  this  time  a 
new  source  of  hope  sprung  up,  which  augmented  the  happiness 
1  enjoyed  with  her,  and  made  her  dearer  to  me  than  ever. 
During  several  months  the  health  of  my  wife  had  changed  :  she 
then  found  all  the  symptoms  of  pregnancy.  We  had  been  married 
twelve  years,  and  she  had  never  yet  shown  any  signs  of  maternity. 
I  was  so  persuaded  that  we  should  never  have  children  that 
the  derangement  of  her  health  was  causing  me  serious  un 
easiness,  when  one  morning  as  I  was  going  to  my  work  she 
said  to  me :  "I  don't  feel  well  to-day,  and  I  wish  you  to  re 
main  with  me:"  Two  hours  afterwards,  to  my  great  surprise, 
she  gave  premature  birth  to  a  little  girl,  whose  arrival  no  one 
expected.  The  infant  was  born  before  the  due  time,  and  lived 
only  one  hour,  just  sufficient  to  receive  baptism,  which  I  ad 
ministered  to  her.  This  was  the  second  human  being  that 
had  expired  in  the  house  of  Jala-Jala;  but  she  was  also  the  first 
that  had  there  first  drawn  the  breath  of  life.  The  regret 
which  we  all  experienced  from  the  loss  was  softened  by  the 
certainty  that  my  dear  Anna  might  again  become  a  mother, 
under  more  favourable  circumstances,  tier  health  was  speedily 
re-established,  and  she  was  again  gay  and  beautiful  as  ever 
indeed  she  appeared  so  handsome,  that  often  Indian  women 
came  from  a  long  distance  for  the  sole  purpose  of  looking  at  her 
They  would  remain  for  half-an-hour  gazing  at  her,  and  after 
wards  returned  to  their  villages,  where  they  gave  birth  to 


BIRTH    OF    MY    SON,  233 

creatures  little  resembling  the  model  which  they  had  taken 
such  pains  to  observe,  with  a  confidence  approaching  to 
simplicity. 

Eventually  Anna  exhibited  new  signs  of  maternity ;  her 
pregnancy  went  through  the  usual  course,  and  her  health 
was  not  much  affected.  In  due  time  she  presented  me 
with  a  little  boy,  weakly  and  delicate,  but  full  of  life.  Our 
joy  was  at  the  highest,  for  we  possessed  that  which  we  had 
so  long  wished  for,  and  that  which  alone  was  in  my  opinion 
wanting. 

My  Indians  were  delighted  with  the  birth,  and  for  several 
days  there  was  a  round  of  rejoicings  at  Jala-Jala ;  and  my 
Anna,  although  confined  to  bed,  was  obliged  to  receive  visits, 
at  first  from  all  the  women  and  maidens  of  the  village,  and 
afterwards  from  all  the  Indians  who  were  fathers  of  families 
Each  brought  some  little  present  for  the  newly  born,  and  the 
cleverest  man  of  them  was  commissioned  to  express  a  com 
pliment  in  the  name  of  all  ;  which  comprised  their  best 
wishes  for  the  happiness  of  the  mother  and  child,  and  full 
assurances  of  the  satisfaction  they  felt  in  thinking  that  they 
would  one  day  be  ruled  over  by  the  son  of  the  master  from 
whom  they  had  experienced  so  much  kindness,  and  who  had 
conferred  upon  them  such  benefits.  Their  gratitude  was 
sincere. 

The  news  of  the  accouchement  of  my  wife  brought  a  very 
numerous  party  of  friends  and  relations  to  my  house,  where 
they  waited  for  the  baptism,  which  took  place  in  my  drawing- 
room.  Anna,  then  almost  thoroughly  well,  was  present  on  the 
occasion  :  my  son  was  named  Henry,  after  his  uncle.  At  this 
time  I  was  happy ;  Oh,  so  truly  happy !  for  my  wishes  were 
nearly  gratified.  There  was  but  one  not  so — and  that  was  to 


284  TWENTY   YEARS   IN   THE   PHILIPPINES. 

see  again  my  aged  mother  and  my  sisters ;  but  1  hoped  that 
the  time  was  not  far  distant  when  I  should  realise  the  project 
of  revisiting  my  native  country.  My  farming  speculation  was 
most  prosperous :  my  receipts  were  every  year  on  the  increase ; 
my  fields  were  covered  with  the  richest  crops  of  sugar-canes,  to 
the  cultivation  of  which,  and  of  rice,  I  had  joined  that  of  coffee. 
My  brother  had  taken  upon  himself  the  management  of  a  very 
large  plantation,  which  promised  the  most  brilliant  results; 
and  appeared  likely  to  secure  the  premium  which  the  Spanish 
government  had  promised  to  give  to  the  proprietor  of  a  planta 
tion  of  eighty  thousand  feet  of  coffee  in  product.  But,  alas ! 
the  period  of  my  happiness  had  passed  away,  and  what  pain 
and  what  grief  was  I  not  doomed  to  suffer  before  I  again  saw 
my  native  country. 

My  brother — my  poor  Henry — committed  some  imprudences, 
and  was  suddenly  attacked  with  an  intermittent  fever,  which  in 
a  few  days  carried  him  off. 

My  Anna  and  I  shed  abundance  of  tears,  for  we  both  loved 
Henry  with  the  warmest  affection.  For  several  years  we  had 
lived  together ;  he  participated  in  all  our  labours,  our  troubles, 
and  our  pleasures.  He  was  the  only  relative  I  had  in  the 
Philippines.  He  had  left  France,  where  he  had  filled  an 
honourable  position,  with  the  sole  object  of  coming  to  see 
me,  and  of  aiding  me  in  the  great  task  which  I  had  under 
taken.  His  amiable  qualities  and  his  excellent  heart  had 
endeared  him  to  us  :  his  loss  was  irreparable,  and  the  thought 
that  I  had  no  longer  a  brother  added  poignancy  to  my  bitter 
grief.  Prudent,  the  youngest,  had  died  at  Madagascar ;  Robert, 
the  next  to  me,  died  at  La  Planche,  near  Nantes,  in  the  little 
dwelling  where  we  spent  cur  childhood ;  and  my  poor  Henry 
at  Jala- Jala  I  erected  a  simple  tomb  for  him  near  the  door 


MY    FRIENDSHIP    WITH    MALVILAIN.  ^35 

of  the  church,  and  for  several  months  Jala-Jala  was  a  place  of 
grief  and  mourning. 

We  had  scarcely  begun,  not  indeed  to  console  ourselves, 
hut  rather  to  bear  with  resignation  the  loss  we  had  experienced, 
when  a  new  dispensation  of  fate  came  to  strike  me  to  the 
earth. 

On  my  arrival  in  the  Philippines,  and  while  I  resided  at 
Cavite,  I  formed  a  close  connection  with  Malvilain,  a  native  of 
St.  Malo,  and  mate  of  a  ship  from  that  port.  During  several 
years  which  he  spent  at  Cavite  our  friendship  was  most  inti 
mate.  A  day  seldom  passed  that  we  did  not  see  each  other, 
and  two  days  never,  for  we  were  much  attached.  Our  two 
ships  were  at  anchor  in  the  port,  not  far  one  from  the  other. 
One  day  as  I  was  walking  on  deck,  waiting  for  a  boat  to  take 
me  on  board  Malvilain's  ship,  I  saw  his  crew  at  work  in  regu 
lating  one  of  the  masts,  when  a  rope  suddenly  snapped,  and 
the  mast  fell  with  a  frightful  crash  on  the  deck,  in  the  midst  of 
the  men,  amongst  whom  Malvilain  was  standing.  From  the 
deck  of  my  own  ship  I  beheld  all  that  passed  on  that  of  my 
friend,  who  I  thought  was  killed  or  wounded.  My  feelings 
were  worked  to  the  highest  pitch  of  anguish  and  alarm;  I 
could  not  control  myself;  I  jumped  into  the  water  and  swam 
to  his  ship,  where  I  had  the  pleasure  of  finding  him  un 
injured,  although  considerably  stunned  by  the  danger  from 
which  he  had  escaped.  Wet  as  I  was  from  my  sea-bath  I 
caught  him  in  my  arms,  and  pressed  him  to  my  heart;  and 
then  hastened  to  afford  relief  to  some  of  the  crew,  who  had  not 
been  so  fortunate  to  escape  without  injury  as  he  had  been. 

Another  time  I  was  the  cause  of  serious  alarm  to  Malvilain. 
One  day.  a  mass  of  black  and  thick  clouds  was  gathered  close 
over  the  point  of  Cavite,  and  a  frightful — that  is,  a  tropical — 


236  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

storm  burst.  The  claps  of  thunder  followed  each  other  from 
minute  to  minute,  and  before  each  clap  the  lightning,  in  long 
serpent-like  lines  of  fire,  darted  from  the  clouds,  and  drove  011 
ttf  the  point  of  Cavite,  where  it  tore  up  the  ground  of  the 
little  plain  situate  at  the  extremity,  and  near  which  the  ships 
were  moored.  Notwithstanding  the  storm  I  was  going  to  see 
Malvilaiu,  and  was  almost  in  the  act  of  placing  my  foot  on  the 
deck  of  his  vessel,  when  the  lightning  fell  into  the  sea  so  near 
to  me  that  I  lost  my  breath.  Instantly  I  felt  an  acute  pain  in 
the  back,  as  if  a  burning  torch  had  been  laid  between  my 
shoulders.  The  pain  was  so  violent,  that  the  moment  I  re 
covered  myself  I  uttered  a  sharp  scream.  Malvilain,  who  was 
within  a  few  paces  of  me,  felt  very  sensibly  the  electric  shock 
which  had  struck  me,  and,  on  hearing  my  cry,  imagined  that 
I  was  dangerously  hurt.  He  rushed  towards  me  and  held  me 
in  his  arms  until  I  was  able  to  give  every  assurance  of  my 
recovery.  The  electric  fluid  had  grazed  me,  but  without  causing 
any  positive  injury. 

I  have  related  these  two  slight  anecdotes  to  show  the 
intimacy  that  subsisted  between  us,  and  how  I  afterwards 
suffered  in  my  dearest  affections. 

My  existence  has  to  this  day,  when  I  write  these  lines, 
been  filled  with  such  extraordinary  facts,  that  I  have  been 
naturally  led  to  believe  that  the  destiny  of  man  is  regulated 
by  an  order  of  things  which  must  infallibly  be  accomplished. 
This  idea  has  had  great  influence  over  me,  and  taught  me 
to  endure  all  the  evils  which  have  afflicted  me.  Was  it,  then, 
my  destiny  which  bound  me  to  Malvilain,  and  bound  him  to 
me  in  the  same  manner  ?  I  have  no  doubt  of  it. 

Some-  days  before  the  terrible  scourge  of  the  cholera  broke 
out  in  the  Philippines,  Malvilain's  ship  set  sail  for  France. 


THE    MARRIAGE    AND    DEATH    OF    MALVILAIN.  237 

With  hearts  oppressed  with  grief  we  separated,  after  promising 
each  that  we  should  meet  again  ;  but,  alas  !  fate  had  ordained 
it  otherwise.  Malvilain  returned  home,  went  to  Nantes  to 
take  the  command  of  a  ship,  and  there  became  acquainted  with 
my  eldest  sister,  and  married  her.  This  news,  which  reached 
me  while  I  resided  in  Manilla,  gave  me  the  greatest  satis 
faction,  for  if  I  had  had  to  choose  a  husband  for  my  dear  sister 
Emilie,  this  marriage  was  the  only  one  to  satisfy  the  wishes  I 
had  formed  for  the  happiness  of  both. 

After  his  marriage  Malvilain  continued  to  sail  from  the 
port  of  Nantes.  His  noble  disposition  and  his  accurate  know 
ledge  of  his  duties  caused  him  to  be  highly  esteemed  by  the 
leading  merchants.  His  affairs  were  in  a  state  sufficiently 
good  as  not  to  require  him  to  expose  himself  longer  to  the 
dangers  of  the  sea,  and  he  was  on  his  last  voyage,  when,  at 
the  Mauritius,  he  was  attacked  by  an  illness,  which  carried  him 
off,  leaving  my  sister  inconsolable,  and  with  three  very  young 
girls  to  lament  him. 

This  fresh  and  irreparable  loss,  the  news  of  which  had  then 
reached  me,  added  to  my  grief  for  the  sad  death  of  my  poor 
brother.  Every  calamity  seemed  to  oppress  me.  After  some 
years  of  happiness  I  saw,  by  little  and  little,  disappear  from 
this  world,  the  persons  on  whom  I  had  concentrated  my  dearest 
affections  ;  but,  alas !  I  had  not  even  then  reached  the  term 
of  my  sorrows,  for  other  and  most  bitter  sufferings  were  still 
to  be  passed  through. 

I  saw  with  pleasure  my  boy  was  enjoying  the  best  health, 
and  that  he  was  daily  increasing  in  strength  ;  and  yet  I  was 
far  from  being  happy,  and  to  the  melancholy  caused  by  the 
losses  I  had  experienced  was  added  another  most  fearful 
alarm.  My  beloved  Anna  had  never  thoroughly  recovered 


238  TWENTY    YEAES    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

after  her  accouchement,  and  day  by  day  her  health  was  growing 
weaker.  She  did  not  seem  aware  of  her  state.  Her  happi 
ness  at  being  a  mother  was  so  great  that  she  did  not  think  of 
her  own  condition. 

I  had  gathered  in  my  sugar-cane  crop,  which  was  most 
abundant,  and  my  plantations  were  finished,  when,  wishing  to 
procure  some  amusement  for  my  wife,  I  proposed  to  go  and 
spend  some  time  at  the  house  of  her  sister  Josephine,  for 
whom  she  entertained  the  warmest  affection.  She,  with  great 
pleasure,  agreed  to  do  so.  We  set  out  with  our  dear  little 
Henry  and  his  nurse,  and  took  up  our  quarters  at  the  house 
of  my  brother-in-law,  Don  Julian  Calderon,  then  residing  in  a 
pretty  country-house  on  the  banks  of  the  river  Pasig,  half  a 
league  from  Manilla. 

Of  the  three  sisters  of  my  wife,  Josephine  was  the  one  for 
whom  I  had  the  most  affection :  I  loved  her  as  I  did  my  own 
sister.  The  day  of  our  arrival  was  one  of  rejoicing.  All  our 
friends  at  Manilla  came  to  see  us,  and  Anna  was  so  pleased 
in  seeing  our  little  Henry  admired  that  her  health  seemed  to 
have  improved  considerably;  but  this  apparent  amelioration 
lasted  but  a  few  days,  and  soon,  to  my  grief,  I  saw  that  she  was 
growing  worse  than  ever.  I  sent  for  the  only  medical  man  in 
Manilla  in  whom  I  had  confidence,  my  friend  Genu.  He  came 
frequently  to  see  her,  and  after  six  weeks  of  constant  attention, 
he  advised  me  to  take  her  back  to  my  residence  near  the  lake, 
where  persons  attacked  with  the  same  malady  as  my  dear 
Anna  had  often  recovered.  As  she  herself  wished  to  return, 
I  appointed  a  day  for  our  departure.  A  commodious  boat, 
with  good  rowers,  was  ready  for  us  on  the  Pasig,  at  the  end  of 
my  brother  in-law's  garden ;  and  a  numerous  assemblage  of  our 
friends  accompanied  us  to  the  water's  edge.  The  moment  of 


•VIELAiNCHOLY    ADIEUS. 


separation  was  one  of  most  melancholy  feelings  to  us  all.  The 
countenance  of  each  seemed  to  ask:  "Shall  we  meet  again?" 
My  sister-in-law  Josephine,  in  a  flood  of  tears,  threw  herself  into 
Anna's  arms.  I  had  great  difficulty  in  separating  them  ;  but  we 
were  obliged  to  set  out.  I  took  my  wife  into  the  boat,  and  then 
those  two  sisters,  who  had  always  maintained  towards  each 
other  the  most  tender  love,  addressed  with  their  voices  their 
last  adieus,  while  promising  not  to  be  long  separated,  and 
that  they  would  see  each  other  very  soon. 

Those  painful  adieus  and  the  sufferings  of  my  wife  caused 
the  trip,  which  we  had  often  previously  made  with  the  greatest 
gaiety,  to  be  melancholy  and  sileait.  On  our  arrival,  I  did  not 
look  on  Jala-Jala  with  the  usual  feelings  of  satisfaction.  I  had 
my  poor  patient  placed  in  bed,  and  did  not  quit  her  room, 


$40  TWENTY   YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

hoping  by  my  continual  care  to  afford  her  some  relief  in  her 
sufferings.  But,  alas  !  from  day  to  day  the  malady  made 
fearful  progress.  I  was  in  despair.  I  wrote  to  Josephine,  and 
sent  a  boat  to  Manilla  for  her  to  come  and  take  care  of  her 
sister,  who  was  most  anxious  to  see  her.  The  boat  returned 
without  her ;  but  a  letter  from  kind-hearted  Josephine  informed 
me  that  she  was  herself  dangerously  ill,  and  confined  to  her 
room,  and  could  not  even  leave  her  bed ;  that  she  was  very  sorry 
for  it,  but  I  might  assure  Anna  that  they  would  soon  be  re-united, 
never  again  to  be  separated. 

Fifty  days — longer  to  me  than  a  century — had  scarcely 
elapsed  since  our  return  to  Jala-Jala  than  all  my  hopes  va 
nished.  Death  was  approaching  with  rapid  strides,  and  the 
fatal  moment  was  at  hand  when  I  was  to  be  separated  from 
her  whom  I  loved  with  such  intensity.  She  preserved  her 
senses  to  the  last,  and  saw  my  profound  melancholy,  and 
my  features  altered  by  grief;  and  finding  her  last  hour  was 
near,  she  called  me  to  her,  and  said :  "  Adieu,  my  beloved 
Paul,  adieu.  Console  thyself — we  shall  meet  again  in  Heaven  ! 
Preserve  thyself  for  the  sake  of  our  dear  boy.  When  I  shall 
be  no  more,  return  home  to  thy  own  country,  to  see  thy  aged 
mother.  Never  many  again,  except  in  France,  if  thy  mother 
requires  thee  to  do  so.  Do  not  marry  in  the  Philippines,  for 
thou  wilt  never  find  a  companion  here  to  love  thee  as  I  have 
loved."  These  words  were  the  last  which  this  good  and  gentle 
angel  spoke.  The  most  sacred  ties,  the  tenderest  and  purest 
union,  were  then  severed — my  Anna  was  no  more  !  I  held  her 
lifeless  body  clasped  in  my  arms,  as  if  I  hoped  by  my  caresses 
to  recall  her  to  life ;  but,  alas  !  her  destiny  was  decided  ! 

It  required  absolute  force  to  tear  me  from  the  precious 
remains  which  I  pressed  against  my  heart,  and  to  draw  me 


MY    PROFOUND    CHIEF.  2<il 

into  a  neighbouring  room,  where  my  son  was.  While  I 
pressed  him  convulsively  to  my  breast,  I  wished  to  weep ;  but 
my  eyes  were  tearless,  and  I  was  insensible  to  the  caresses 
even  of  my  poor  child. 

The  strongest  constitution  cannot  resist  the  fatigue  of  fifty 
days  of  constant  watching  and  uneasiness  ;  and  the  state  of 
annihilation  in  which  I  was,  both  physically  and  morally,  after 
despair  had  taken  the  place  of  the  glimmering  hope  which  sus 
tained  us  to  the  last  moment,  was  such  that  I  fell  into  a  state 
of  insensibility,  which  ended  in  a  profound  sleep.  I  awoke  on 
the  following  day  with  my  son  in  my  arms.  But  how  frightful 
was  my  state  on  awaking.  All  that  was  horrible  in  my  position 
presented  itself  to  my  imagination.  Alas  !  she  was  no  more ; 
my  adorable  companion,  that  beloved  angel  and  consolatrix, 
who  had,  on  my  account,  abandoned  all — parents,  friends,  and 
the  pleasures  of  a  capital — to  shut  herself  up  with  me  in 
a  deserted  wilderness,  where  she  was  exposed  to  a  thousand 
dangers,  and  had  but  me  to  support  her.  She  was  no  more ; 
and  fatal  destiny  had  torn  her  from  me,  to  sink  me  for  ever  in 
desolation  and  grief. 

The  funeral  took  place  on  the  following  clay,  and  was  at 
tended  by  every  inhabitant  of  Jala-Jala.  Her  body  was  depo 
sited  near  the  altar  in  the  humble  church  which  I  had  caused 
to  be  erected,  and  before  which  altar  she  had  so  often  poured 
forth  prayers  for  my  happiness. 

For  a  long  time  mourning  and  consternation  reigned  in 
Jala-Jala.  All  my  Indians  showed  the  deepest  sympathy  for 
the  loss  which  they  had  suffered.  Anna  was,  during  her  life, 
beloved  even  to  idolatry,  and  after  her  death  she  was  most 
sincerely  lamented. 

for  several  days  I  continued  in  a  thorough  depression, 

L 


242  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

unable  to  attend  to  anything,  except  to  the  cares  which  my 
son,  then  my  only  remaining  consolation,  required.  Three 
weeks  elapsed  before  I  quitted  the  room  in  which  my  poor  wife 
had  expired.  I  then  received  a  note  from  Josephine,  in  which 
she  stated  that  her  illness  had  grown  worse.  The  note  ended 
with  these  words :  "  Come,  my  dear  Paul ;  come  to  me :  we 
shall  weep  together.  I  feel  that  your  presence  will  afford  some 
consolation." 

I  did  not  hesitate  to  comply  with  the  request  of  dear 
Josephine,  for  whom  I  entertained  an  affection  as  if  for  my 
own  sister.  My  presence  might  prove  a  solace  to  her,  and  I 
myself  felt  that  it  would  prove  to  me  a  great  consolation  to  see 
a  person  who  had  so  sincerely  loved  my  Anna.  The  hope  of 
being  useful  to  her  re-animated  my  courage  a  little.  I  left  my 
house  under  the  care  of  Prosper  Vidie,  an  excellent  friend,  who 
during  the  last  days  of  my  wife's  life  had  not  quitted  me,  and 
departed,  accompanied  by  my  son. 

After  the  first  emotion  which  Josephine  and  I  felt  on 
meeting,  and  when  we  both  had  shed  abundant  tears,  I  exa 
mined  her  state.  It  required  a  strong  effort  on  my  part  to  con 
ceal  from  her  my  anxiety,  on  finding  her  labouring  under  a  most 
serious  malady,  and  which  gave  me  grounds  for  fearing  that  a 
fresh  misfortune  was  not  far  distant.  Alas  !  my  forebodings 
were  correct ;  for  eight  days  afterwards  poor  Josephine  expired 
in  my  arras,  after  the  most  poignant  sufferings.  What  abun 
dant  sources  of  woe  in  so  short  a  space  of  time  !  It  required 
a  constitution  strong  as  mine  was  to  bear  up  against  such  a 
number  of  sorrows,  and  not  to  fail  under  the  burthen. 

When  I  had  paid  the  last  duties  to  my  sister-in-law  I  went 
back  to  Jala-Jala.  To  me  everything  was  burthcnsome.  1 
was  obliged  to  betake  myself  to  my  forests  and  to  my  mouu- 


I    RESIGN    Mkr    GOVERNMENT   AT   JALA-JALA.  243 

tains,  in  order  to  recover  a  little  calmness.  Some  months 
passed  over  before  I  could  attend  to  my  affairs ;  but  the  last 
wishes  of  my  poor  wife  required  to  be  fulfilled,  and  I  was  to 
quit  the  Philippines  and  return  to  my  country.  I  commenced 
preparations  for  the  purpose.  I  made  over  my  establishment 
to  my  friend  Vidie,  who  was,  as  I  considered,  the  person  best 
adapted  for  carrying  out  my  plans,  and  for  treating  my  poor 
Indians  well.  He  requested  me  to  stop  a  little  time  with 
him,  and  to  show  him  the  secrets  of  my  little  government.  I 
consented,  and  the  more  willingly,  as  those  few  months  would 
serve  to  render  my  son  stronger,  and  better  able  to  support  the 
fatigues  of  a  long  voyage.  I  therefore  remained  at  Jala-Jala ; 
but  life  had  become  painful  to  me,  and  without  an  object,  so 
that  it  was  positively  a  trouble.  There  was  nothing  to  distract 
me — nothing  to  remove  the  most  painful  thoughts  from  me. 
The  pretty  spots  of  Jala-Jala,  over  which  I  had  often  looked 
with  the  greatest  pleasure,  had  become  altogether  indifferent  to 
me.  I  sought  out  the  most  melancholy  and  silent  places.  I 
often  went  to  the  banks  of  a  rivulet,  concealed  in  the  midst  of 
high  mountains,  and  shaded  by  lofty  trees.  This  spot  was 
perhaps  known  to  no  other  person ;  and  probably  no  human 
being  had  ever  previously  been  seated  in  it.  There  I  gave 
free  vent  to  my  bitter  recollections — my  wife,  my  brothers,  my 
sister-in-law,  engrossed  my  imagination.  When  the  thought 
of  my  son  drove  away  these  sombre  reveries,  I  returned  slowly 
to  my  house,  where  I  found  the  poor  child,  who,  by  his 
caresses,  seemed  to  try  to  find  some  way  to  cause  a  change  in 
my  grief;  but  they  seemed  only  to  recall  the  time  when  Anna 
always  came  to  welcome  me  home,  and  when,  clasping  me  in 
her  arms,  she  caused  me  to  forget  all  the  toil  and  trouble  I 
met  with  when  absent  from  her.  Alas  !  that  blissful  time  had 


244  TWENTY   YEARS   IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

flown  away,  and  was  never  to  return ;  and  in  losing  my  com 
panion  I  lost  every  happiness. 

My  friend  Vidie  tried  every  means  in  his  power  to  rouse 
me.  He  spoke  to  me  often  of  France,  of  my  mother,  and  of  the 
consolation  I  should  feel  on  presenting  my  son  to  her.  The 
love  of  my  country,  and  the  thought  of  finding  there  those 
affections  of  which  I  stood  so  much  in  need,  was  a  soft  balm, 
which  lulled  for  a  while  the  sufferings  that  were  constantly 
vibrating  in  the  bottom  of  my  heart. 

My  Indians  were  deeply  afflicted  on  learning  the  resolution 
I  had  taken  of  quitting  them.  They  showed  their  trouble  by 
saying  to  me,  every  time  they  addressed  me !  "  Oh,  master : 
what  will  become  of  us  when  we  shall  not  see  you  again  ?"  I 
quieted  them  as  well  as  I  could,  by  assuring  them  that  Vidie 
would  exert  himself  for  their  welfare ;  that  when  my  son 
should  be  grown  up,  I  would  come  back  with  him  and  then 
never  leave  them.  They  answered  me  with  their  prayers : 
"  May  God  grant  it,  master  !  But  what  a  long  time  we  shall 
have  to  pass  without  seeing  you !  However,  we  ehall  not 
forget  yon  " 


Ajetas  Indians. 


CHAPTEK    XII. 

My  friend  Adolphe  Barrot  visits  me  at  Jala-Jala — The  Bamboo  Cane — The  Cocoa- 
Nut  Tree — The  Banana — Majestic  Forests  of  Gigantic  Trees — The  Leeches 
— A  Tropical  Storm  in  a  Forest — An  Indian  Bridge — "  Bernard  the  Hermit" — 
We  arrive  at  Binangon-de-Lampon — The  Ajetas — Veneration  of  the  Ajetas  for 
their  Dead — Poison  used  by  the  Ajetas — I  carry  away  a  Skeleton— We  Embark 
on  the  Pacific  in  an  old  Canoe,  reach  Maoban,  and  ultimately  arrive  at  Jala-Jala. 

A  T  this   epoch   of  my  recollections,  in   the   midst   of  my 

melancholy  and  of  my  troubles,  I  formed  an  intimate  and 

enduring  friendship  with  a  compatriot,  a  good  and  excellent 

man.  for  whom  T  always  preserve  the  attachment  first  formed 


246  TWENTY   YEAKS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

in  a  foreigii  country,  several  thousand  leagues  from  home.  I 
now  speak  of  Adolphe  Barrot,  who  was  sent  as  consul-general 
to  Manilla.  He  came  with  several  friends  to  spend  some  days 
at  Jala-Jala.  Being  unwilling  that  he  should  suffer  any  un 
pleasantness  from  the  state  of  my  feelings,  I  endeavoured  to 
render  his  stay  at  Jala-Jala  as  agreeable  as  in  my  power.  I 
arranged  several  hunting  and  shooting  parties,  and  excursions 
through  the  mountains  and  on  the  lake.  For  his  sake  I  re 
sumed  my  old  mode  of  life,  such  as  I  had  been  used  to  before  I 
was  overwhelmed  by  misfortune. 

The  days  which  I  thus  spent  in  company  with  Adolphe 
Barrot  aroused  within  me  my  former  taste  for  exercise,  and  my 
ruling  passion  for  adventure.  My  friend  Vidie — always  with 
the  intention  of  exciting  me  to  action — pressed  me  very  much 
to  go  and  visit  a  certain  class  of  the  natives  which  I  had 
often  expressed  a  wish  to  examine.  My  affairs  being  almost 
regulated ;  my  son  being  placed  under  his  care,  and  that  of  his 
nurse,  and  of  a  housekeeper  in  whom  I  had  every  confidence  ;  I 
was  induced,  by  this  feeling  of  security,  and  by  the  instances  of 
my  friend,  to  proceed  to  visit  the  district  of  the  Ajetas,  or  Black- 
men,  who  were  a  wild  race,  altogether  in  a  state  of  nature. 
They  were  the  aborigines  of  the  Philippines,  and  had  for 
a  long  time  been  masters  of  Luzon  At  a  time  not  very  far  dis 
tant,  when  the  Spaniards  conquered  the  country,  the  Ajetas 
levied  a  kind  of  black-mail  from  the  Tagalese  villages  situated 
on  the  banks  of  the  lake  of  Bay.  At  a  fixed  period  they 
quitted  their  forests,  entered  the  villages,  and  forced  the  inha 
bitants  to  give  them  a  certain  quantity  of  rice  and  maize ;  and 
if  the  Tagalese  refused  or  were  unable  to  pay  these  contribu 
tions,  they  cut  off  a  number  of  heads,  which  they  carried  away 
as  trophies  for  their  barbarian  festivities.  After  the  conquest 


WE    START   TO    VISIT   THE    A J ETAS.  217 

of  the  Philippines  by  the  Spaniards,  the  latter  took  upon  them 
selves  the  defence  of  the  Tagalese,  and  the  Ajetas,  terrified  by 
their  fire-arras,  remained  in  the  forests,  and  did  not  re-appear 
among  the  Indians. 

The  same  race  is  found  in  various  parts  of  the  Malay 
country  ;  and  the  people  of  New  Zealand — the  Paponins — re 
semble  them  very  much  in  form  and  colour. 

My  intention  was  to  pass  some  days  amongst  those  wild 
savages,  and  our  preparations  were  speedily  made.  I  chose  two 
of  my  best  Indians  to  accompany  me.  It  is  not  requisite  to  state 
that  my  lieutenant  was  one  of  the  party,  for  he  was  always  with 
me  in  all  my  perilous  expeditions. 

We  took  each  of  us  a  small  haversack,  containing  rice  for 
three  or  four  days,  some  dried  venison,  a  good  provision  of 
powder,  ball,  and  shot  for  gameysome  coloured  handkerchiefs, 
and  a  considerable  quantity  of  cigars  for  our  own  use,  and  to 
insure  a  welcome  amongst  the  Ajetas.  Each  of  us  carried  a 
good  double-barreled  gun  and  his  poignard.  Our  clothes  were 
those  which  we  wore  in  all  our  expeditions, — on  our  heads  the 
common  salacote,  a  shirt  of  raw  silk,  the  pantaloon  turned  up  to 
above  the  knee ;  the  feet  and  legs  remained  uncovered.  With 
these  simple  preparations  we  set  out  on  a  trip  of  some  weeks, 
during  which,  and  from  the  second  day  of  our  starting,  we  could 
expect  no  shelter  but  the  trees  of  the  forest,  and  no  food  but 
the  game  we  shot,  and  the  edible  parts  of  the  palm  tree. 

I  took  special  care  not  to  forget  the  vade  mecum  which  I 
always  took  with  me,  whenever  I  made  these  excursions  for  any 
number  of  days — I  mean  paper  and  a  pencil,  with  which  I 
made  notes,  to  aid  my  recollections,  and  enable  me  afterwards 
to  write  down  in  a  journal  the  remarks  I  made  during  my 
travels.  Every  preparation  being  made,  we  one  morning 


248  TWENTY    TEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

started  from  Jala-Jala.  We  traversed  the  peninsula  formed 
by  my  settlement,  and  embarked  on  the  other  side  in  a  small 
canoe,  which  took  us  to  the  bottom  of  the  lake  to  the  north 
east  of  my  habitation.  We  passed  the  night  in  the  large 
village  of  Siniloan,  and  at  an  early  hour  the  following  day 
resumed  our  march.  This  first  day's  journey  was  one  of  toil 
and  suffering :  we  were  then  beginning  the  rainy  season,  and 
the  heavy  storms  had  swelled  the  rivers.  We  marched  for 
some  time  along  the  banks  of  a  torrent,  which  rushed  down 
from  the  mountains,  and  which  we  were  obliged  to  swim 
through  fifteen  times  during  the  day.  In  the  evening  we 
camo  to  the  foot  of  the  mountains  where  begin  the  forests  of 
gigantic  trees,  which  cover  almost  all  the  centre  of  the  island 
of  Luzon.  There  we  made  our  first  halt,  lighted  our  fires, 
and  prepared  our  beds  and  our  supper.  I  think  that  I  have 
already  described  our  beds,  which  use  and  fatigue  always  ren 
dered  agreeable  to  us,  when  no  accident  occured  to  disturb  our 
repose.  But  I.  have  said  nothing  of  the  simple  composition  of 
our  meals,  nor  of  our  manner  of  preparing  them.  Our  rice 
and  palms  required  to  be  cooked,  an  operation  which  might 
seem  rather  embarrassing,  for  we  had  with  us  no  large  kitchen 
articles :  we  sometimes  wanted  a  fire-box  and  tinder.  But 
the  bamboo  supplied  all  these.  The  bamboo  is  one  of  the 
three  tropical  plants  which  Nature,  in  her  beneficence  and 
care,  seems  to  have  given  to  man  to  supply  most  of  his  wants. 
And  here  I  cannot  forbear  dedicating  a  few  lines  to  the  de 
scription  of  those  three  products  of  the  tropics,  viz :  the  bam 
boo,  the  cocoa-nut  tree,  and  the  banana-plant. 

The  bamboo  belongs  to  the  gramineous  family ;  it  grows  in 
thick  groves,  in  the  woods,  on  the  river  banks,  and  wherever 
it  finds  a  humid  Boil.  In  the  Philippines  there  are  counted 


UTILITY    OF    THE    BAMBOO.  'M9 

wcnty-five  or  thirty  kinds,  different  in  form  and  thickness. 
There  are  some  of  the  diameter  of  the  human  body,  and  hollow 
in  the  interior :  this  kind  serves  especially  for  the  construction 
of  huts,  and  for  making  vessels  to  transport  and  to  keep  water. 
The  filaments  are  used  for  making  baskets,  hats,  and  all  kinds 
of  basket-work,  cords,  and  cables  of  great  solidity. 

Another  bamboo,  of  smaller  dimensions,  and  hollow  within, 
which  is  covered  with  varnish,  almost  as  hard  as  steel,  is  em 
ployed  in  building  Indian  houses.  Cut  to  a  point  it  is  ex 
tremely  sharp,  and  is  used  for  many  purposes.  The  Indians 
make  lances  of  it,  and  arrows,  and  fleams  for  bleeding  horses, 
and  lancets  for  opening  abcesses,  and  for  taking  thorns  or 
other  things  out  of  the  flesh. 

A  third  kind,  much  more  solid,  and  as  thick  as  one's  arm, 
and  not  hollow  within,  is  used  in  such  parts  of  the  buildings  as 
require  sold  timber,  and  especially  in  the  roofing. 

A  fourth  kind,  much  smaller,  and  also  without  being  hollow, 
serves  to  make  the  fences  that  surround  enclosed  fields  when 
tilled.  The  other  kinds  are  not  so  much  employed,  but  still 
they  are  found  to  be  useful. 

To  preserve  the  plants,  and  to  render  them  very  productive, 
the  shoots  are  cut  at  ten  feet  from  the  ground.  These  shoots 
look  like  the  tubes  of  an  organ,  and  are  surrounded  with 
branches  and  thorns.  At  the  beginning  of  the  rainy  season 
there  grows  from  each  of  those  groves  a  quantity  of  thick 
bamboos,  resembling  large  asparagus,  which  shoot  up  as  it 
were  by  enchantment.  In  the  space  of  a  month  they  become 
from  fifty  to  sixty  feet  long,  and  after  a  short  time  they  acquire 
all  the  solidity  necessary  for  the  various  works  to  which  they 
are  destined. 

The  cocoa-nut  tree  belongs  to  the  palm  family  :  it  requires  to 
L* 


250 


TWENTY    YEAKS    IN    THE   PHILIPPINES. 


grow  seven  years  before  it  bears  fruit ;  but  after  this  period,  and 
for  a  whole  century,  it  yields  continually  the  same  product — that 
is,  every  month  about  twenty  large  nuts.  This  produce  never 
fails,  and  on  the  snme  tree  may  be  seen  continually  flowers  and 

fruits  of  all  sizes.  The  cocoa 
nut  affords,  as  everyone  knows, 
nutritious  food, and  when  pressed 
yields  a  quantity  of  oil.  The 
shell  of  the  nut  serves  to  make 
vases,  and  the  filamentary  parts 
are  spun  into  ropes  and  cables 
for  ships,  and  even  into  coarse 
clothing.  The  leaves  are  used 
to  make  baskets  and  brooms, 
and  for  thatching  the  huts. 

A  liquor  is  also  taken  from 
the  cocoa-nut  tree,  called  cocoa- 
wine  ;  it  is  a  most  stupifying  drink,  of  which  the  Indians  make 
great  use  at  their  festivities.  To  produce  the  cocoa-wine,  large 
groves  of  the  cocoa-trees  are  laid  out,  from  which  merely  the 
sap  or  juice  is  expected,  but  nothing  in  the  shape  of  fruit. 
These  trees  have  long  bamboos  laid  at  their  tops  from  one 
to  another,  on  which  the  Indians  pass  over  every  morning, 
bearing  large  vessels,  in  which  they  collect  the  liquid.  It  is  a 
laborious  and  dangerous  employment, — a  real  promenade  in  the 
air,  at  the  height  of  from  sixty  to  eighty  feet  from  the  ground. 
It  is  from  the  bud  which  ought  to  produce  the  flower  that  the 
liquid  is  drawn  of  which  the  spirit  is  afterwards  made.  As 
soon  as  the  bud  is  about  to  burst,  the  Indian  employed  in  col 
lecting  the  liquid  ties  it  very  tight,  a  few  inches  from  its 
point,  and  then  cuts  across  the  point  beyond  the  tying 


The  Cocoa-Nut. 


THE    COCOA-NUT    THEK — THE    BANANA 


251 


From  this  cutting,  or  from  the  pores  which  are  left  uncovered, 
a  saccharine  liquid  flows,  which  is  sweetish  and  agreeable  to 
the  palate  before  it  has  fermented.  After  it  has  passed  the 
fermentation  it  is  carried  to  the  still,  and  submitted  to  the 
process  of  distillation,  it  then  becomes  the  alcoholic  liquor 
known  in  the  country  as  cocoa-wine. 

Besides  these  uses,  the  cocoa-nut  shell,  when  burned,  gives 
the  line  black  colour  which  the  Indians  make  use  of  to  dye 
their  straw  hats. 

The  banana  is  an  herbaceous  plant,  without  any  woody  mat 
ter  :  the  trunk  of  each  is  formed  of 
leaves  placed  one  above  the  other. 
This  trunk  rises  from  twelve  to 
fifteen  feet  from  the  ground,  and 
then  spreads  out  into  long  broad 
leaves,  not  less  than  five  or  six  feet 
each.  From  the  middle  of  these 
leaves  the  flower  rises,  and  also  the 
spike  (regime).  By  this  word  is  to 
be  understood  a  hundred  of  large 
bananas  growing  from  the  same 
stalk,  forming  together  a  long 
branch,  that  turns  towards  the  sun. 

Before  the  fruit  has  reached  its  full  ripeness,  tjie  spike 
is  cut,  and  becomes  fit  for  use.  The  part  of  the  plant 
which  is  in  the  earth  is  a  kind  of  large  root,  from  which 
proceed  successively  thirty  shoots,  and  each  shoot  ought  not 
to  have  more  than  one  spike,  or  bunch ;  it  is  then  cut 
fronting  the  sun,  and  as  all  the  shoots  rising  from  the 
same  trunk  are  of  different  ages,  there  are  fruits  to  be  found 
in  all  the  stages  of  growth ;  so  that  every  month  or  fort- 


Tha  Danana. 


252  TWENTY    TEAKS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

night,  and  at  all  seasons,  a  spike  or  two  may  be  gathered 
from  the  same  plant.  There  is  also  a  species  of  banana 
the  fruit  of  which  is  not  good  to  eat,  but  from  which  raw 
silk  is  formed,  called  abaca,  which  is  used  to  make  clothes, 
and  all  kinds  of  cordage.  This  filament  is  found  in  the  trunk 
of  the  plant,  which,  as  I  have  said,  consists  of  leaves  placed  one 
over  another,  which,  after  being  separated  into  long  strips, 
and  left  for  some  hours  in  the  sun,  is  then  placed  on  an  iron 
blade,  not  sharp,  and  then  dragged  with  force  over  it.  The  paren- 
chyme  of  the  plant  is  taken  off  by  the  iron  blade,  and  the  fila 
ments  then  separate.  Nothing  is  now  wanting  but  to  expose 
them  for  some  time  to  the  sun's  rays ;  after  which  they  are 
brought  to  market. 

I  observe  that  I  have  left  my  journey  aside  to  describe 
three  tropical  plants,  which  afford  a  sufficiency  for  all  the 
wants  of  man.  Those  plants  are  well-known;  yet  there  may 
be  some  persons  ignorant  of  the  utility,  and  of  the  various 
services  which  they  render  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  tropics. 
My  readers  will  from  them  be  naturally  led  to  reflect  how  the 
inhabitants  of  the  torrid  zone  are  favoured  by  nature,  in  com 
parison  with  those  of  our  frigid  climate. 

We  were"*  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  preparing  to  pass 
the  night.  -'Our  labour  was  always  divided  one  got  the  beds 
ready,  another  the  fire,  a  third  the  cookery.  He  who  had  to 
prepare  me  fire  collects  a  quantity  of  dry  wood  and  of  brambles. 
Under  this  heap  of  firewood  he  puts  about  twelve  pounds  of 
elemi  gum,  which  is  common  in  the  Philippines,  where  it  is 
found  in  quantities  at  the  foot  of  the  large  trees  from  which  it 
flows  naturally.  He  then  takes  a  piece  of  bamboo,  half  a-yard 
long,  which  he  splits  to  its  length,  tears  with  poignard  so  as  to 
make  very  thin  shavings,  which  he  rubs  together  while  rolling 


OUR   MODE    OF    LIVING    ON    THE    JOURNEY.  253 

them  between  his  bands,  and  tben  puts  them  into  the  hollow 
part  of  the  other  piece,  and  lays  it  down  on  the  ground,  and 
then  with  the  sharp  side  of  the  piece  from  which  he  had  taken 
the  shavings,  he  rubs  strongly  the  piece  lying  on  the  ground, 
as  if  he  wished  to  saw  it  across.  In  a  short  time  the  bamboo 
containing  the  shavings  is  cut  through  and  on  fire.  The 
flame  rising  from  the  shavings,  when  blown  lightly  upon,  quickly 
sets  the  elemi  gum  in  a  blaze,  and  in  an  instant  there  is  a 
fire  sufficient  to  roast  an  ox. 

He  who  had  to  manage  the  cooking  cut  two  or  three 
pieces  of  the  large  bamboo,  and  put  in  each  whatever  he  wished 
to  cook — usually  rice  or  some  part  of  the  palm  tree — he 
added  some  water,  stopped  the  ends  of  the  bamboo  with 
leaves,  and  laid  it  in  the  middle  of  the  fire.  This  bamboo  was 
speedily  burned  on  the  outside,  but  the  interior  was  moistened 
by  the  water,  and  the  food  within  was  as  well  boiled  as  in 
any  earthen  vessels.  For  plates  we  had  the  large  palm 
leaves.  Our  meals,  as  may  be  observed,  were  Spartan  enough, 
even  during  the  days  while  our  provision  of  rice  and  dried 
venison  lasted.  But  when  game  was  found,  and  that  a  stag  or 
a  buffalo  fell  to  our  lot,  we  fed  like  epicures.  We  drank  pure 
water  whenever  a  spring  or  a  rivulet  tempted  us,  but  if  we 
were  at  a  loss  we  cut  long  pieces  of  the  liana,  called  "  the  travel 
ler's  drink,"  from  which  flowed  a  clear  and  limpid  draught, 
preferable  perhaps  to  any  jvhich  we  might  have  procured  from 
a  better  source. 

It  was  evident  I  was  not  travelling  like  a,  nabob ;  and  it 
would  have  been  impossible  to  take  more  baggage.  How  could 
any  one,  with  large  provisions  and  a  pompous  retinue  move 
in  the  midst  of  mountains  covered  with  forests  literally  along 
untouched  by  human  feet,  and  forced,  in  order  to  get  through 


254  TWENTY    YKAKS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

them,  at  every  instant  to  swim  across  torrents,  and  having 
no  other  guide  than  the  sun,  or  the  blowing  of  the  breeze 
There  "was  no  choice  but  to  travel  in  the  Indian  style,  as  I  did, 
or  to  remain  at  home. 

The  first  night  we  spent  in  the  open  air  passed  quietly ; 
our  strength  was  restored,  and  we  were  recruited  for  the 
journey.  At  an  early  hour  we  wrere  up,  and,  after  a  frugal 
breakfast,  we  resumed  our  march.  For  more  than  two  hours 
we  climbed  up  a  mountain  covered  with  heavy  timber,  the 
ascent  was  rough  and  fatiguing,  at  last  we  reached  the  top, 
quite  exhausted,  where  there  was  a  vast  flat,  which  it  would 
take  us  some  days  to  traverse.  It  was  there,  on  this  flat,  that 
I  beheld  the  most  majestic,  the  finest  virgin  forest  that  existed 
in  the  world.  It  consists  of  gigantic  trees,  grown  up  as 
straight  as  a  rush,  and  to  a  prodigious  height.  Their  tops, 
where  alone  their  branches  grow,  are  laced  into  one  another, 
so  as  to  form  a  vault  impenetrable  to  the  rays  of  the  sun. 
Under  this  vault,  and  among  those  fine  trees,  prolific  nature 
has  given  birth  to  a  crowd  of  climbing  plants  of  a  most  remark 
able  description.  The  rattan  and  the  flexible  liana  mount  up 
to  the  topmost  branches,  and  re-descending  to  the  earth,  take 
fresh  root,  receive  new  sustenance,  and  then  remount  anew, 
and  at  various  distances  they  join  themselves  to  the  friendly 
trunks  of  their  supporting  columns,  and  thus  they  form  very 
often  most  beautiful  decorations.  Varieties  of  the  pandanus 
are  to  be  seen,  of  which  the  leaves,  in  bunches,  start  from  the 
ground,  forming  beautiful  sheaves.  Enormous  ferns  were  to  be 
met  with,  real  trees  in  shape,  and  up  which  we  clambered  often, 
to  cut  the  top  branches,  for  their  delicious  perfume  and  which 
serve  as  food  nearly  the  same  as  the  palms.  But,  in  the 
midst  of  this  extraordinary  vegetation  nature  is  gloomy  and 


A    VIRGIN    FOREST — THE    LEECHES.  255 

silent;  not  a  sound  is  to  be  heard,  unless  perhaps  the  wind 
that  shakes  the  tops  of  the  trees,  or  from  time  to  time  the 
distant  noise  of  a  torrent,  which,  falling  precipitately,  cascades 
from  the  heights  of  the  mountains  to  thei.r  base.  The  ground 
is  moist,  as  it  never  receives  the  sun's  rays :  the  little  lakes 
and  the  rivers,  that  never  flow  unless  when  swollen  by  the 
storms,  present  to  the  eye  water  black  and  stagnant,  on  which 
the  reflection  of  the  fine  clear  blue  sky  is  never  to  be  seen. 

The  sole  inhabitants  of  these  melancholy  though  majestic 
solitudes  are  deer,  buffaloes  and  wild  boars,  which  being  hidden 
in  their  lairs  and  dens  in  the  daytime,  come  out  at  night  in 
search  of  food.  Birds  are  seldom  seen,  and  the  monkeys  so 
common  in  the  Philippines,  shun  the  solitude  of  these  im 
mense  forests.  One  kind  of  insect  is  met  with  in  great  abun 
dance,  and  it  plagues  the  traveller  to  the  utmost ;  they  are  the 
small  leeches,  which  are  found  on  all  the  mountains  of  the 
Philippines  that  are  covered  with  forests.  They  lie  close  to 
the  ground  in  the  grass,  or  on  the  leaves  of  the  trees,  and  dart 
like  grasshoppers  on  their  prey,  to  which  they  fasten.  Travel 
lers  are  therefore  always  provided  with  little  knives,  cut  from 
the  bamboo,  to  loosen  the  hold  of  the  insects,  after  which 
they  rub  the  wound  with  a  little  chewed  tobacco.  But  soon 
another  leech,  attracted  by  the  flowing  blood,  takes  the  place 
of  the  one  which  was  removed,  and  constant  care  is  necessary 
to  avoid  being  victimised  by  those  little  insects,  of  which  the 
voracity  far  exceeds  that  of  our  common  leeches. 

Our  way  lay  through  these  singular  creations  of  nature, 
and  I  was  engaged  in  looking  at  and  examining  the  curiosities 
around  me,  while  my  Indians  were  seeking  some  kind  of  game — 
deer,  buffalo,  or  wild  boar — to  replace  our  stock  of  rice  and 
venison,  which  was  exhausted.  We  were  at  length  reduced 


TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 


to  the  palms  as  our  only  resource;    but  the  palms,  though 
pleasing  to  the  palate,  are  not  sufficiently  nutritive  to  recruit 
the  strength  of  poor  travellers,  when,  suffering  under  extreme 
fatigue,  and  after  a  laborious  march, 
,,.,,  vl'.iilU1; .«  ,  they  find  no  lodging  but  the  moist 

ground,  and  no  shelter  but  the  vault 
of  the  sky. 

We  directed  our  course  as  near 
as  possible  towards  the  eastern 
coast,  which  is  bathed  by  the 
Pacific  ocean.  We  knew  that  it 
was  in  that  direction  the  Ajctas 
commenced  their  settlement.  We 
wished  also  to  pass  through  the 
large  Tagalese  village,  Binangonan 
de  Lampon,  which  is  to  be  found, 
isolated  and  hidden,  at  the  foot  of 

the  eastern  mountains,  in  the  midst  of  the  savages.  We 
had  already  spent  several  nights  in  the  forest,  and  without 
experiencing  any  great  inconvenience.  The  fires  which  we 
lighted  every  evening  warmed  us,  and  saved  us  from  the 
myriads  of  terrible  leeches,  which  otherwise  would  certainly 
have  devoured  us.  We  imagined  that  we  were  within  one 
day's  march  of  the  sea-shore,  where  we  expected  to  take 
some  time  for  rest,  when,  of  a  sudden,  a  burst  of  thunder  at  a 
distance  gave  us  reason  to  apprehend  a  storm.  Nevertheless, 
we  continued  our  journey  ;  but  in  a  short  time  the  growling  of 
the  thunder  approached  so  near  as  to  leave  no  doubt  that  the 
hurricane  would  burst  over  us.  We  stopped,  lighted  our  fires, 
cooked  our  evening's  repast,  and  placed  some  of  the  palm  leaves 
on  polos  by  the  side  of  a  blope  to  save  us  from  the  heavy  rain 


Fruit  of   the  Tr.lm  Trie. 


A    TROPICAL    STOilM.  257 

We  had  not  finished  all  our  preparations  when  the  storm  hroke. 
if  we  had  not  had  the  glimmering  glare  of  our  firebrands 
we  should  have  been  in  profound  obscurity,  although  it  was  not 
yet  night.  We  all  three,  with  pieces  of  palm  branches  in  our 
hands,  crouched  under  the  slight  shelter  which  we  had  impro. 
vised,  and  there  awaited  the  full  force  of  the  storm.  f  The 
thunder-claps  were  redoubled ;  the  rain  began  with  violence  to 
batter  the  trees,  and  then  to  assail  us  like  a  torrent.  Our 
fires  were  speedily  extinguished;  we  found  ourselves  in  the 
deepest  darkness,  interrupted  only  by  the  lightning,  which  from 
time  to  time  rushed,  serpent-like,  through  the  trees  of  the 
forest,  scattering  a  dazzling  light,  to  leave  us  the  moment  after 
in  profound  obscurity.  Around  us  the  din  was  horrible  ;  the 
thunder  was  continuous,  the  echoes  of  the  mountains  repeating 
from  distance  to  distance  its  sound,  sometimes  deadened,  and 
sometimes  with  awful  grandeur.  The  wind,  which  blew  with 
violence,  shattered  the  uppermost  parts  of  the  trees,  breaking 
off  large  branches,  which  fell  with  a  crash  to  the  ground. 
Some  trunks  were  uprooted,  and,  while  falling,  tore  down  the 
boughs  of  the  neighbouring  trees.  The  rain  was  incessant,  and 
in  the  intervals  between  the  thunder  we  could  hear  the  awful 
roar  of  the  waters  of  a  torrent  which  rushed  madly  past  the 
base  of  the  mound  where  we  had  taken  refuge.  Amidst  all 
this  frightful  commotion,  mournful  and  dismal  sounds  were 
heard,  like  the  howls  of  a  large  dog  which  had  lost  its  master : 
they  were  the  cries  of  the  deer  in  their  distress,  seeking  for  a 
place  of  shelter.  Nature  seemed  to  be  in  convulsions,  and  to 
have  declared  war  in  every  element.  The  loose  thatch  under 
which  we  had  taken  refuge  was  soon  penetrated,  and  we  were 
completely  deluged.  We  soon  quitted  this  miserable  hole,  pre 
ferring  to  move  our  stiffened  and  almost  deadened  limbs,  covered 


258  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

with  the  fearful  little  leeches,  which  terrible  infliction  deprived 
us  of  the  strength  so  necessary  ia  our  awful  position. 

I  avow  that  at  this  moment  I  sincerely  repented  my  fatal 
curiosity,  for  which  I  paid  so  dearly.  I  could  compare  this 
frightful  night  only  to  the  one  I  had  passed  in  the  bamboos, 
when  .1  was  wrecked  on  the  lake.  In  appearance  there  was 
not  such  pressing  danger,  for  we  could  not  be  swallowed  up 
by  the  waves  ;  but  there  were  large  trees,  under  which  we 
were  obliged  to  stop,  and  one  of  which  might  be  uprooted 
and  fall  upon  us  ;  a  bough  torn  off  by  the  wind  might  crush 
us ;  and  the  lightning,  equally  terrific  in  its  reports  and  its 
effects,  might  strike  us  at  any  moment.  One  thing  was  especially 
painful,  and  that  was  the  cold,  and  the  difficulty  of  moving 
our  frozen  and  almost  paralysed  limbs.  We  awaited  with 
impatience  the  cessation  of  the  storm ;  but  it  was  not  until 
after  three  hours  of  mortal  agony  that  the  thunder  gradually 
ceased.  The  wind  fell ;  the  rain  subsided ;  and  for  some  time 
we  heard  nothing  but  the  large  drops  which  dripped  from  the 
trees,  and  the  dread  sound  of  the  torrents.  Calm  was  restored ; 
the  sky  became  pure  and  starry :  but  we  were  deprived  of 
that  view  which  gives  hope  to  the  traveller,  for  the  forest 
presented  only  a  dome  of  green,  impenetrable  to  the  sight. 

Exhausted  as  we  were  by  our  exposure  to  the  elements 
and  our  exertions,  we  were  so  overpowered  by  nature's  great 
renovator  sleep,  that,  notwithstanding  our  clothes  were  saturated 
with  the  rain,  we  were  able  to  pass  the  remainder  of  the  night  in 
tranquillity.  At  break  of  day  the  forest,  which  a  few  hours 
previously  had  been  the  scene  of  the  terrors  which  I  have 
described,  was  again  tranquil  and  silent.  When  we  quitted 
our  lair  we  were  frightful  to  look  at ;  we  were  covered  with 
leeches,  and  the  marks  of  blood  on  our  faces  rendered  us 


THE    EFFECTS    OF    THE    LEECHES.  259 

hideous.  On  looking  at  my  two  poor  Indians  I  could  not 
avoid  laughing  aloud ;  they  also  looked  at  me,  hut  their  re 
spcct  for  me  prevented  their  laughing.  I  was  no  doubt  equally 
punished,  and  my  white  skin  must  have  served  to  show  well  the 
ravages  of  these  creatures.  We  were,  indeed,  knocked  up ;  we 
could  scarcely  move,  so  weak  had  we  become.  However,  act 
we  must,  and  promptly, — to  light  a  fire  quickly,  in  order  to 
warm  us ;  to  cook  some  of  the  palm  stalks  ;  to  cross,  by 
swimming,  a  torrent  which,  with  a  terrible  noise,  was  rushing 
on  below  us ;  and  to  reach,  during  the  day,  the  shores  of  the 
Pacific  ocean.  If  we  delayed  to  start  it  might  not  be  pos 
sible  to  pass  through  the  torrents, — we  had  left  several  behind 
us, — we  might  find  ourselves  in  the  impossibility  of  going 
either  backward  or  forward,  and  perhaps  be  obliged  to  remain 
several  days  waiting  for  the  waters  to  subside  before  we  could 
proceed.  Besides,  other  storms  might  arise,  frequent  as  they 
are  at  this  season,  and  we  should  have  to  remain  for  several 
weeks  in  a  desert  spot  without  resources,  and  where  the  first 
night  passed  under  such  a  bad  roof  was  no  recommendation. 
There  was  no  time  to  be  lost.  From  a  large  heap  of  palm 
leaves,  where  we  had  placed  and  covered  up  our  haversacks  in 
order  to  preserve  them  from  the  wet,  we  drew  them  out  safe ; 
our  precautions  had  fortunately  been  successful,  they  were 
quite  dry.  We  made  a  large  fire,  thanks  to  the  elemi  gum, 
which  burns  with  such  ease.  Our  feelings  were  delightful 
when  the  heat  entered  our  frames,  dried  our  dripping  gar 
ments,  re-animated  our  courage,  and  gave  us  some  strength. 
But,  to  enjoy  that  satisfaction  fully,  one  should  have  acquired 
it  at  the  same  cost  as  I  had.  I  very  much  doubt  that  any 
European  would  like  to  participate  in  the  scenes  of  that  night 
simply  for  the  enjoyments  of  the  following  day. 


260  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

Our  scanty  cookery  was  soon  ready,  and  expeditiously  dis 
patched,  and  we  moved  off  in  quick  time. 

My  Indians  were  uneasy,  as  they  feared  they  would  not  be 
able  to  pass  through  the  torrent  which  was  heard  at  a  distance, 
consequently  they  marched  quicker  than  I  did.  On  reaching 
the  bank  I  found  them  in  a  consternation.  "Oh,  master!"  said 
my  faithful  Alila,  "  it  is  not  possible  to  pass  ;  so  we  must  spend 
some  days  here."  I  cast  my  eyes  on  the  torrent,  which  was 
rolling  between  steep  rocks,  in  a  yellow,  muddy  stream :  it  had 
all  the  appearance  of  a  cascade,  and  was  carrying  down  the 
trunks  of  trees  and  branches  broken  off  during  the  storm. 
My  Indians  had  already  come  to  a  decision,  and  were  arranging 
a  spot  for  a  fit  bivouac;  but  I  did  not  wish  to  give  up  all 
hopes  of  success  so  speedily,  and  set  about  examining  with  care 
the  means  of  overcoming  the  difficulty. 

The  torrent  was  not  more  than  a  hundred  yards  in  breadth^ 
and  a  good  swimmer  could  with  ease  get  over  in  a  few  minutes. 
But  it  was  necessary,  on  the  opposite  side,  to  arrive  at  a  spot 
which  was  not  too  steep,  and  where  one  could  find  safe  footing, 
and  out  of  the  torrent;  otherwise  the  risk  would  be  run  of 
being  drawn  down,  no  one  could  tell  whither. 

From  the  bank  on  which  we  were  it  was  easy  to  jump 
into  the  water,  but  on  the  other  side,  for  a  hundred  yards 
down  the  stream,  there  was  but  one  spot  where  the  rocks 
were  interrupted.  A  small  stream  joined  there  the  one  we 
wished  to  cross.  After  I  had  carefully  calculated  by  sight 
the  length  of  the  passage,  I  considered  myself  strong  enough 
to  attempt  it.  I  was  a  better  swimmer  than  my  Indians ; 
and  I  was  certain  if  I  was  once  on  the  other  side,  that 
they  would  follow.  I  told  them  that  I  was  going  to  cross  over 
the  torrent. 


AN    INDIAN    BJITDGK.  "2Q\ 

But  one  reflection  caused  me  to  hesitate.  How  could  I 
preserve  our  haversacks,  and  save  our  precious  provision  of 
powder?  How  keep  our  guns  from  injury ?  It  would  not  be 
possible  to  think  of  carrying  those  articles  on  my  back  through 
a  torrent  so  rapid,  and  in  which,  beyond  doubt,  I  should  be 
under  water  more  than  once  before  I  gained  the  other  side. 

The  Indians,  being  fertile  in  expedients,  speedily  extricated 
me  from  this  difficulty  :  they  cut  several  rattans,  and  joined  the 
ends  together,  so  as  to  form  a  considerable  length.  One  of 
them  climbed  a  tree  which  leant  over  the  torrent,  and  there 
fastened  one  end  of  the  rattan  length,  while  I  took  the  other 
end  to  carry  it  over  to  the  other  bank.  All  our  arrangements 
being  effected  I  plunged  into  the  water,  and  without  much 
difficulty  gained  the  opposite  side,  having  the  end  of  the  rattan 
with  me,  which  I  fastened  to  a  tree  on  the  steep  bank  I  had 
gained,  allowing  a  slight  inclination  of  the  line  towards  me, 
yet  raised  sufficiently  over  the  water  to  allow  the  articles 
which  we  were  anxious  to  pass  over  to  slide  along  without 
touching  the  water.  Our  newly  constructed  bridge  was  won 
derfully  successful.  The  articles  came  across  quite  safe  and 
dry  ;  and  my  Indians,  by  its  aid,  quickly  joined  me.  We  con 
gratulated  each  other  on  our  fortunate  passage,  and  the  more 
so,  as  we  expected  before  sunset  to  reach  the  Pacific  ocean.  Of 
the  woods  we  had  had  enough  :  and  we  now  looked  for  the 
sun,  which  for  several  days  had  been  obscured  by  clouds ;  the 
leeches  caused  us  considerable  suffering,  and  weakened  us  very 
much,  and  our  miserable  diet  was  not  sufficient  to  recruit  our 
exhausted  frames.  Moreover  we  did  not  doubt  that,  on  reaching 
the  sea,  we  should  be  amply  recompensed  for  all  the  privations 
we  had  endured.  In  fine,  with  renewed  hopes  we  found  our 
courage  revive,  and  soon  forgot  the  fatal  night  of  the  storm 


262  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

I  walked  nearly  as  quick  as  my  Indians,  who,  like  me, 
hastened  to  get  clear  of  the  insupportable  humidity  in  which 
we  had  existed  for  several  days. 

Two  hours  after  we  had  passed  the  torrent  a  dull  and 
distant  sound  struck  our  ears.  At  first  we  supposed  it  to  be 
a  fresh  storm ;  but  soon  we  knew,  from  its  regularity,  that  it 
was  nothing  less  than  the  murmur  of  the  Pacific  ocean,  and 
the  sound  of  the  waves  which  come  from  afar  to  break  them 
selves  on  the  eastern  shore  of  Luzon.  This  certainty  caused 
me  a  most  pleasing  emotion.  In  a  few  hours  I  should  again 
see  the  blue  sky,  warm  myself  in  the  generous  rays  of  the 
sun,  and  find  a  boundless  horizon.  I  should  also  get  rid  of  the 
fearful  leeches,  and  should  soon  salute  Nature,  animated  in 
creation,  in  exchange  for  the  solitudes  from  which  we  had 
just  emerged. 

We  were  now  on  the  declivity  of  the  mountains,  the  descent 
of  which  was  gentle  and  our  march  easy.  The  sound  of  the  waves 
increased  by  degrees.  Near  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we 
perceived  through  the  trees  that  the  sun  was  clear ;  and  an  in 
stant  afterwards  we  beheld  the  sea,  and  a  magnificent  beach, 
covered  with  fine  glittering  sand.  The  first  movement  of  all 
three  was  to  strip  off  our  clothes  and  to  plunge  into  the  waves ; 
and  while  we  thus  enjoyed  a  salutary  bath,  we  amused  our 
selves  in  collecting  off  the  rocks  a  quantity  of  shell-fish, 
which  enabled  us  to  make  the  most  hearty  meal  we  had  eaten 
since  we  started  from  home. 

Having  thus  satisfied  our  hunger,  our  thoughts  were  directed 
to  taking  rest,  of  which  we  stood  in  great  need  ;  but  it  was  no 
longer  on  knotty  and  rough  pieces  of  timber,  that  we  were 
going  to  repose, — it  was  on  the  soft  sand,  which  the  shore  offered 
to  us,  warmed  aa  it  wa?  by  the  last  rays  of  the  setting  sun. 


"  BEKXAliD    THE    HEKMIT."  263 

It  was  almost  night  when  we  stretched  ourselves  on  this  bed, 
which  to  us  was  preferable  to  one  of  down.  Our  sacks  served 
as  pillows ;  we  laid  our  guns,  which  were  properly  primed, 
close  by  our  sides,  and  after  a  few  minutes  were  buried  in 
a  profound  sleep.  I  know  not  how  long  I  had  enjoyed 
this  invigorating  balm  when  I  was  awakened  by  the  painful 
feeling  of  something  crawling  over  me.  I  felt  the  prickings  of 
sharp  claws,  which  fastened  in  my  skin,  and  occasionally  caused 
me  great  pain.  Similar  sensations  had  awakened  my  two 
Indians.  We  collected  the  embers  which  were  still  ignited, 
and  were  able  to  see  the  new  kind  of  enemies  which  assailed  us. 
They  were  the  crabs  called  "  Bernard  the  Hermit,"*  and  in 
such  quantities  that  the  ground  was  crawling  with  them,  of  all 
sizes  and  of  all  ages.  We  swept  the  sand  on  which  we  laid 
down,  hoping  to  drive  them  away,  and  to  have  some  sleep ;  but 
the  troublesome — or  rather,  the  famishing  hermits — returned 
to  the  charge,  and  left  us  neither  peace  or  quiet.  We  were  busy 
in  resisting  their  attacks,  when  suddenly,  on  the  edge  of  the 
forest,  we  perceived  a  light,  which  came  towards  us.  We  seized 
our  guns,  and  awaited  its  approach  in  profound  silence  and  with 
out  any  movement.  We  then  saw  a  man  and  woman  coming  out 
of  the  wood,  each  having  a  torch  in  their  hands.  We  knew 
them  to  be  Ajetas,  who  were  coming,  no  doubt,  to  catch  fish 
on  the  beach.  When  they  reached  within  a  few  steps  from  us, 
they  stood  for  an  instant  motionless  and  gazed  at  us  with  fixed 
attention.  We  three  were  seated,  watching  them,  and  trying 
to  guess  their  intentions.  One  of  them  put  his  hand  to  his 
shoulder,  as  if  to  take  his  bow;  and  I  instantly  cocked  my 

*  Bernard  the  Hermit  is  a  crab,  which  lodges  in  the  abandoned  shell  of 
the  molluscs,  and  comes  at  night  in  search  of  food,  which  it  finds  on  the  sea 
beach. 


264  TWENTY   YEAUS   IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

gun.  The  noise  caused  by  the  movement  of  the  gun-lock  was 
sufficient  to  frighten  them :  they  threw  down  their  light,  and 
scampered  off  like  two  wild  beasts,  in  the  highest  alarm, 
to  hide  themselves  in  the  forest. 

Their  appearance  was  enough  to  prove  that  we  were  in  a 
place  frequented  by  the  Ajetas.  The  two  savages  whom  we 
had  seen  were  perhaps  gone  to  inform  their  friends,  who 
might  come  in  great  numbers  and  let  fly  at  us  their  poisoned 
arrows.  This  dread,  and  the  incessant  attacks  of  Bernard 
the  Hermit,  caused  us  to  spend  the  remainder  of  the  night 
near  a  large  fire. 

As  soon  as  day  broke  we  made  an  excellent  breakfast, 
thanks  to  the  abundance  of  shell -fish,  of  which  we  could  take 
whatever  quantity  we  liked,  and  then  set  out  again.  Our  way  lay 
sometimes  along  the  shore,  and  at  other  times  through  the  woods. 
The  journey  was  very  fatiguing,  but  without  any  incident  worthy 
of  notice.  It  was  after  night-fall  when  we  arrived  at  the 
village  of  Binangonan  de  Lampon.  This  village,  inhabited  by 
Tagalocs,  is  thrown,  like  an  oasis  of  men,  somewhat  civilised, 
in  the  midst  of  forests  and  savage  people,  and  who  had  no  direct 
communication  with  the  other  districts  which  are  governed  by 
the  Spaniards. 

My  name  was  known  to  the  inhabitants  of  Binangonan  de 
Lampon,  consequently  we  were  received  with  open  arms,  and  all 
the  heads  of  the  village  disputed  with  each  other  for  the  honour 
of  having  me  as  a  guest.  I  gave  the  preference  to  him  who  had 
first  invited  me,  and  in  his  dwelling  I  experienced  the  kindest 
hospitality.  I  had  scarcely  entered  when  the  mistress  of  the 
house  herself  wished  to  wash  my  feet,  and  to  show  me  all 
those  attentions  which  proved  to  me  the  pleasure  they  felt  that 
T  had  given  them  this  preference. 


CURIOSITY    OF   THE   NATIVES. 


265 


Inhabitants  of  biuangouan  de  Lampon 

During  supper,  while  I  was  enjoying  the  good  food  which 
was  before  me,  the  small  house  in  which  I  was  seated  became 
filled  with  young  girls,  who  gazed  at  me  with  a  curiosity 
which  was  really  comic.  When  I  had  finished  my  meal  the  con 
versation  with  my  host  began  to  weary  me,  and  I  stretched 
myself  on  a  mat,  which  on  that  occasion  I  regarded  as  an 
excellent  substitute  for  a  feather-bed. 

I  spent  three  days  with  the  kind  Tagalocs,  who  received 
and  treated  me  like  a  prince.  On  the  fourth  day  I  bade  them 
adieu,  and  we  shaped  our  course  to  the  northward,  in  the 
midst  of  mountains  covered  with  thick  forests,  and  which,  like 
those  that  we  had  quitted,  showed  no  path  for  the  traveller, 


266  TWENTY   YEARS   IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

except  some  tracks  or  openings  through  which  wild  animals 
passed.  We  proceeded  with  great  caution,  for  we  found  our 
selves  in  the  district  peopled  by  Ajetas.  At  night  we  concealed 
our  fire,  and  each  of  us  in  turn  kept  watch,  for  what  we  dreaded 
must  was  a  surprise. 

One  morning,  while  marching  in  silence,  we  heard  before 
us  a  number  of  shrill  voices,  resembling  rather  the  cries  of 
birds  than  human  sounds.  We  kept  strict  watch,  and  shaded 
ourselves  as  much  as  possible  by  the  aid  of  the  trees  and  of 
the  brushwood.  Suddenly  we  perceived  before  us,  at  a  very 
little  distance,  forty  savages  of  both  sexes,  and  of  all  ages ; 
they  absolutely  seemed  to  be  mere  brutes ;  they  were  on  the 
bank  of  a  river,  and  close  to  a  large  fire.  We  advanced  some 
steps  presenting  the  but-end  of  our  guns.  The  moment 
they  saw  us  they  set  up  a  shrill  cry,  and  were  about  to 
take  to  flight ;  but  I  made  signs,  and  showed  the  packet  of 
cigars  which  we  wished  to  give  them.  Fortunately  I  had 
learned  at  Binangonan  the  way  by  which  I  was  to  approach 
them.  As  soon  as  they  understood  us  they  ranged  themselves 
in  a  line,  like  men  about  to  be  reviewed ;  that  was  the  signal 
that  we  might  come  near  them.  We  approached  with  the 
cigars  in  our  hands,  and  at  one  end  of  the  line  I  began  to 
distribute  my  presents.  It  was  highly  important  to  make 
friends  of  them,  and,  according  to  their  custom,  to  give  to  each 
an  equal  share.  My  distribution  being  finished,  our  alliance 
was  cemented,  and  peace  concluded :  the  savages  and  we  had 
nothing  to  dread  from  each  other.  They  all  began  smoking. 
A  stag  had  been  suspended  to  a  tree ;  their  chief  cut  three  large 
pieces  from  it  with  a  bamboo  knife,  which  he  threw  into  the 
glowing  fire,  and  a  moment  afterwards  drew  it  out  again  and 
handed  it  round,  a  piece  being  given  to  each  of  us.  The 


OUR    FEAST    WITH    THE    AJETAS.  207 

of  this  steak  was  burned,  and  a  little  spotted  with  cinders,  but 
the  inside  was  raw  and  full  of  blood  ;  however  it  was  necessary 
not  to  show  any  repugnance,  and  to  make  a  cannibal  feast, 
otherwise  my  hosts  would  have  been  affronted,  and  I  was 
anxious  to  live  with  them  for  some  days  on  a  good  understand 
ing.  I  therefore  eat  my  portion  of  the  stag,  which,  after 
all,  was  not  bad  :  my  Indians  did  as  I  had  done.  Good  rela 
tions  were  thus  established  between  us,  and  treachery  was  not 
then  to  be  expected. 

I  now  found  myself  in  the  midst  of  a  tribe  of  men 
whom  I  had  come  from  Jala-Jala  to  see,  and  I  set  about  ex 
amining  them  at  my  ease,  and  for  as  long  as  I  wished.  We 
fixed  our  bivouac  some  steps  from  theirs,  as  if  we  wished  to 
form  part  of  the  family  of  our  new  friends.  I  could  not 
address  them  but  by  signs,  and  I  had  the  greatest  difficulty  in 
making  them  understand  me,  but  on  the  day  after  my  arrival 
I  had  an  interpreter.  A  woman  came  to  me  with  a  child,  to 
which  she  wished  to  give  a  name ;  she  had  been  reared 
amongst  the  Tagalocs;  she  had  spoken  that  language,  of  which 
she  remembered  a  little,  and  could  give,  although  with  much 
difficulty,  all  the  information  I  desired  which  was  to  me  of 
interest. 

The  creatures  with  whom  I  had  thus  formed  a  connection 
for  a  few  days,  and  as  I  saw  them,  seemed  rather  to  be  a  large 
family  of  monkeys  than  human  beings.  Their  voices  very 
much  resembled  the  shrill  cries  of  those  animals,  and  in  their 
gestures  they  were  exactly  like  them.  The  only  difference 
I  could  see  was  that  they  knew  how  to  handle  a  bow  and  a 
lance,  and  to  make  a  fire.  To  describe  them  properly  I  shall 
give  a  sketch  of  their  forms  and  physiognomies. 

The  Ajeta,  or  little  negro,  is  as  black  as  ebony,  like  the 


208  TWENTY    YEAES    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

Africans;  his  greatest  height  is  four  feet  and  a-half;  his 
hair  is  woolly,  and  as  he  takes  no  trouble  about  cutting  it,  and 
knows  not  how  to  arrange  it,  it  forms  around  his  head  a  sort 
of  crown,  which  gives  him  an  odd  aspect,  and,  at  a  distance 
makes  him  appear  as  if  surrounded  with  a  kind  of  halo  ;  his 
eye  is  yellowish,  but  lively  and  brilliant,  like  that  of  an  eagle. 
The  necessity  of  living  by  the  chase,  and  of  pursuing  his  prey, 
produces  the  effect  on  this  organ  of  giving  to  it  the  most  extra 
ordinary  vivacity.  The  features  of  the  Ajetas  have  something  of 
the  African  black,  but  the  lips  are  not  so  prominent ;  while  young 
their  forms  are  pretty ;  but  their  lives  being  spent  in  the  woods, 
sleeping  always  in  the  open  air  without  shelter,  eating  much 
one  day  and  often  having  nothing — long  fastings,  followed  by 
repasts  swallowed  with  the  voracity  of  wild  beasts — gave  them  a 
protruding  stomach,  and  made  their  extremities  lank  and  shri 
velled.  They  never  wear  any  clothing,  unless  a  belt  of  the  rind 
of  a  tree,  fromeight  to  ten  inches  in  breadth,  which  they  tie  round 
their  waist ;  their  arms  are  composed  of  a  bamboo  lance,  a  bow  of 
the  palm  tree,  and  poisoned  arrows.  Their  food  consists  of  roots, 
of  fruits,  and  of  the  products  of  the  chase ;  the  flesh  they  eat 
nearly  raw  ;  and  they  live  in  tribes  composed  of  from  fifty  to 
sixty  individuals.  During  the  day,  the  old  men,  the  infirm,  and 
the  children,  remain  near  a  large  fire,  while  the  others  are 
engaged  in  hunting ;  when  they  have  a  sufficiency  of  food  to 
last  for  some  days,  they  remain  round  their  fire,  and  sleep  pell- 
mell  among  the  cinders. 

It  is  extremely  curious  to  see  collected  together  fifty  or 
sixty  of  these  brutes  of  every  age,  and  each  more  or  less  de 
formed  ;  the  old  women  especially  are  hideous,  their  decrepid 
limbs,  their  big  bellies  and  their  extraordinary  heads  of  hair, 
give  them  all  the  looks  of  furies,  or  of  old  witches. 


I    BAP1ISE    SOME    NATIVE    CHILDREN.  £09 

I  had  scarcely  arrived  than  women  with  very  young  chil 
dren  came  in  crowds  to  me.  In  order  to  satisfy  them  I 
caressed  their  babes :  but  that  was  not  what  they  wanted,  and, 
notwithstanding  their  gestures  and  their  words,  I  could  not 
make  out  their  wishes.  On  the  following  day,  the  woman 
whom  I  have  already  mentioned  as  having  lived  for  some  time 
among  the  Tagalocs,  arrived  from  a  neighbouring  tribe,  accom 
panied  by  ten  other  women,  each  of  whom  had  an  infant  in  her 
arms.  She  explained  what  I  was  not  able  to  comprehend  on 
the  previous  day,  and  said  :  "  We  have  amongst  us  very  few 
words  for  conversation  :  all  our  children  take  at  their  birth  the 
name  of  the  place  where  they  are  born.  There  is  great  con 
fusion,  then,  and  we  have  brought  them  to  you  that  you  may 
give  them  names." 

As  soon  as  I  understood  this  explanation,  I  wished  to  cele 
brate  the  ceremony  with  all  the  pomp  that  the  circumstances 
and  the  place  allowed.  I  went  to  a  small  rivulet,  and  there, 
as  I  knew  the  formula  for  applying  the  baptismal  water,  I 
took  my  two  Indians  as  sponsors,  and  during  several  days 
baptised  about  fifty  of  these  poor  children.  Each  mother 
who  brought  her  infant  was  accompanied  by  two  persons 
of  her  own  family.  I  pronounced  the  sacramental  words, 
and  poured  water  on  the  head  of  the  child,  and  then  announced 
aloud  the  name  I  had  given  to  the  child.  Therefore,  as  they 
have  no  means  of  perpetuating  their  recollections,  from  the 
time  that  I  pronounced  the  name, — Francis,  for  instance, — the 
mother  and  her  accompanying  witnesses  repeated  it  very  often, 
until  they  learned  to  say  it  correctly,  and  commit  it  to  me 
mory.  Then  they  went  away,  and  were  constantly  repeating 
the  name,  which  they  were  anxious  to  retain. 

The  first  day  the  ceremony  was  rather  long ;  but  the  se- 


270  TWENTY   YEARS   IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

cund  day  the  number  lessened,  and  I  was  allowed  to  pursue 
my  examination  of  the  character  of  my  hosts.  I  had  retained 
the  woman  who  spoke  Tagaloc,  and  in  the  long  conversations 
which  I  held  with  her,  she  initiated  me  thoroughly  in  all  their 
customs  and  usages. 

The  Ajetas  have  no  religion ;  they  do  not  adore  any  star. 
It  seems,  however,  that  they  have  transmitted  to,  or  received 
from,  the  Tinguianes,  the  practice  of  adoring,  during  one  day, 
a  rock  or  a  trunk  of  any  tree  on  which  they  find  any  resem 
blance  whatever  of  an  animal ;  they  then  abandon  it,  and  think 
no  more  of  an  idol  until  they  meet  with  a  strange  form,  which, 
for  a  short  time,  constitutes  the  object  of  their  frivolous  wor 
ship.  They  have  a  strong  veneration  for  the  dead ;  and  during 
several  years  it  is  their  practice  to  visit  their  graves,  and 
there  to  leave  a  little  tobacco  or  betel.  The  bow  and  arrows 
which  once  belonged  to  the  deceased  are  hung  up  over  his 
grave  on  the  day  of  his  interment ;  and  every  night,  according 
to  the  belief  of  his  surviving  comrades,  he  rises  up  out  of  his 
grave,  and  goes  to  hunt  in  the  forest. 

Interments  take  place  without  any  ceremony.  The  dead 
body  is  laid  at  full  length  in  a  grave,  which  is  covered  up  with 
earth.  But  whenever  one  of  the  Ajetas  is  dangerously  ill,  and 
his  recovery  despaired  of,  or  that  he  has  been  even  slightly 
wounded  by  a  poisoned  arrow,  his  friends  place  him  seated  in 
a  deep  hole,  with  the  arms  crossed  over  his  breast,  and  thus 
inter  him  while  living. 

I  thought  of  speaking  to  my  interpreter  on  religion,  and 
asked  her  if  she  did  not  believe  in  a  Supreme  Being — an  all- 
powerful  Divinity,  on  whom  all  nature — even  we  ourselves — 
depend  in  all  things  ;  and  who  had  created  the  firmament,  and 
who  was  looking  on  at  our  acts.  She  looked  at  me  with  a 


CURIOUS    CUSTOM    OF   THE   AJETAS.  271 

smile,  and  said  :  "  When  I  was  young,  amongst  your  brothers, 
I  remember  that  they  spoke  to  me  of  a  master,  who,  as  they 
said,  had  Heaven  for  his  dwelling-place  ;  but  all  that  was  lies ; 
for  see  " — (she  here  took  up  a  small  stone  and  threw  it  into  the 
air,  saying,  in  a  very  serious  tone) — "  how  can  a  king,  as  you 
say,  remain  in  the  sky  any  more  than  that  stone  ?"  What 
answer  could  I  give  to  such  reasoning?  I  left  religion  aside, 
to  put  to  her  other  questions. 

I  have  already  stated  that  the  Ajetas  did  not  often  wait  for  / 
the  death  of  a  person  to  put  him  into  the  ground.  As  soon  as 
the  last  honours  are  rendered  to  a  deceased,  it  is  requisite, 
conformably  to  their  usages,  to  take  revenge  for  his  death. 
The  hunters  of  the  tribe  to  which  he  belonged  set  out,  with 
their  lances  and  their  arrows,  to  kill  the  first  living  creature 
which  should  appear  before  their  eyes — be  it  man,  stag,  wild 
boar,  or  buffalo.  From  the  moment  they  start  in  search  of  a 
victim,  they  take  care,  in  every  part  of  the  forest  through 
which  they  pass,  to  break  the  young  shoots  of  the  arbustus 
shrub,  by  pointing  its  tops  in  the  direction  which  they  are 
following.  This  is  done  to  give  a  caution  to  their  friends, 
and  other  passers-by,  to  avoid  those  places  in  which  they  are 
searching  for  a  victim,  for  if  one  of  themselves  fell  into  their 
hands,  he  would,  without  fail,  be  taken  as  the  expiatory 
victim. 

They  are  faithful  in  marriage,  and  have  but  one  wife.  / 
When  a  young  man  has  made  his  choice,  his  friends  or  his 
parents  make  a  demand  for  the  young  girl ;  a  refusal  is  never 
given.  A  day  is  chosen  ;  and  on  the  morning  of  that  day  the 
young  girl  is  sent  into  the  forest,  where  she  hides  herself  or 
not,  just  as  she  pleases,  and  according  as  she  wishes  to  be 
married  to  the  young  man  who  has  asked  her.  An  hour  after 


TWENTY    TEAKS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

her  departure,  the  young  man  is  sent  to  find  out  his  hride.  If 
he  has  the  good  luck  to  find  her,  and  to  bring  her  hack  to  her 
parents  before  sunset,  the  marriage  is  concluded,  and  she 
becomes  his  wife  without  fail ;  but  if,  on  the  contrary,  he 
returns  to  the  camp  without  her,  he  is  not  allowed  to  renew 
his  addresses. 

Among  the  Ajetas  old  age  is  highly  respected.  It  is 
always  one  of  the  oldest  men  who  governs  the  assembled  body. 
All  the  savages  of  this  race  live,  as  I  have  stated,  in  large 
families  of  from  sixty  to  eighty  persons.  They  ramble  about 
through  the  forests,  without  having  any  fixed  spot  for  their 
abode ;  and  they  change  their  encampment  according  to  the 
greater  or  less  quantity  of  game  which  they  find  in  various 
places. 

While  thus  living  in  a  state  of  nature  altogether  primitive, 
these  savages  have  no  instrument  of  music,  and  their  language 
imitating,  as  I  have  stated,  the  cries  of  monkeys,  has  very  few 
sounds,  which  are  extremely  difficult  for  a  stranger  to  pro 
nounce,  how  much  soever  may  be  his  eagerness  to  study  them. 
They  are  excellent  hunters,  and  make  a  wonderful  use  of  the 
bow.  The  young  negroes,  however  little,  of  each  sex,  while 
their  parents  are  out  hunting,  amuse  themselves  on  the  banks 
of  the  rivulets  with  their  small  bows.  If  by  chance  they  see 
any  fish  in  the  translucent  stream  they  let  fly  an  arrow  at  it, 
and  it  is  seldom  that  they  miss  their  aim. 

All  the  weapons  of  the  Ajetas  are  poisoned  ;  a  simple  arrow 
could  not  cause  a  wound  so  severe  as  to  stop  a  strong  animal, 
such  as  a  deer,  in  its  course ;  but  if  the  dart  has  been  smeared 
with  the  poison  known  to  them,  the  smallest  puncture  of  it 
produces  in  the  wounded  animal  an  inextinguishable  thirst, 
and  death  ensues  upon  satisfying  it.  The  hunters  then  cut 


POJSON    USED    BY   THE   AJETA8.  273 

out  the  flesh  around  the  wound,  and  use  the  remainder  as  food, 
without  any  danger;  but  if  they  neglect  this  precaution,  the 
meat  becomes  so  exceedingly  bitter  that  even  the  Ajetas  them 
selves  cannot  eat  it. 

Never  having  given  credit  to  the  famous  loab  of  Java,  1 
made  experiments  at  Sumatra  on  the  sort  of  poison  of  which 
the  Malays  make  use  to  poison  their  weapons.  I  discovered  that 
it  was  simply  a  strong  solution  of  arsenic  in  citron  juice,  with 
which  they  coated  their  arms  several  times.  I  tried  to  find 
the  poison  used  by  the  Ajetas.  They  led  me  to  the  foot  of  a 
large  tree,  and  tore  off  a  piece  of  its  bark,  and  told  me  that 
that  was  the  poison  they  used.  I  chewed  some  of  it  before 
them ;  it  was  insupportably  bitter,  but  otherwise  not  injurious 
in  its  natural  state.  But  the  Ajetas  make  a  preparation  of  it, 
the  secret  of  which  they  refused  to  impart  to  me.  When  their 
poison  is  made  up  as  a  paste,  they  give  to  their  arms  a  thin 
coating  of  it,  about  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness. 

The  Ajetas  in  their  movements  are  active  and  supple  to  an 
incredible  degree ;  they  climb  up  the  highest  trees  like  mon 
keys,  by  seizing  the  trunk  with  both  hands,  and  using  the 
soles  of  their  feet.  They  run  like  a  deer  in  the  pursuit  of 
the  wild  animals  :  this  is  their  favourite  occupation.  It  is  a 
very  curious  sight  to  see  these  savages  set  out  on  a  hunting 
excursion;  men,  women,  and  children  move  together,  very 
much  like  a  troop  of  ourang-outangs  when  going  on  a  plunder 
ing  party.  They  have  always  with  them  one  or  two  little  dogs, 
of  a  very  special  breed,  which  they  employ  in  tracking  out 
their  prey  whenever  it  is  wounded. 

I  enjoyed  quite  at  my  ease  the  hospitality  exercised 
towards  me  by  these  primitive  men.  I  saw  amongst  them,  and 
with  my  own  eyes,  all  that  I  was  desirous  of  knowing.  The 


274  TWENTY    YEARS   IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

painful  life  which  I  had  led  since  my  departure  from  home, 
without  any  shelter  but  the  trees,  and  eating  nothing  but  what 
the  savages  provided,  began  to  tire  me  exceedingly  :  I  resolved 
to  return  to  Jala-Jala.  Having  previously  noticed  several  graves 
at  a  short  distance  from  our  bivouac,  an  idea  struck  me  of 
carrying  away  a  skeleton  of  one  of  the  savages,  which  would, 
in  my  judgment,  be  a  curiosity  to  present  to  the  Jardin  des 
Plautes  or  to  the  Museum  of  Anatomy  at  Paris.  The  under 
taking  was  one  of  great  danger,  on  account  of  the  veneration 
of  the  Ajetas  for  their  dead.  They  might  surprise  us  while 
violating  their  graves,  and  then  no  quarter  was  to  be  expected. 
I  was,  however,  so  much  accustomed  to  overcome  whatever 
opposed  my  will,  that  the  danger  did  not  deter  me  from  acting 
upon  my  resolution.  I  communicated  my  intentions  to  my 
Indians,  who  did  not  oppose  my  project. 

Some  few  days  afterwards  we  packed  up  our  baggage,  and 
took  farewell  of  our  hosts.  We  shaped  our  course  towards  the 
Indian  cemetery.  In  the  first  graves  which  we  opened  we 
found  the  bones  decayed  in  part,  and  I  could  only  procure  two 
skulls,  which  were  not  worth  the  danger  to  which  they  exposed 
us.  However,  we  continued  our  researches,  and  towards  the 
close  of  the  day  discovered  the  remains  of  a  woman,  who,  from 
the  position  of  the  body  in  the  grave,  must  have  been  buried 
before  her  death.  The  bones  were  still  covered  with  skin  ;  but 
the  body  was  dry,  and  almost  like  a  mummy.  This  was  a 
fit  subject.  We  had  taken  the  body  out  of  the  grave,  and 
were  beginning  to  pack  it  up  piece  by  piece  into  a  sack, 
when  we  heard  small  shrill  cries  at  a  distance.  The  Ajetas 
were  coming  upon  us,  and  there  was  no  time  to  be  lost. 
We  seized  our  prize  and  started  off  as  quick  as  possible.  We 
had  not  got  a  hundred  yards,  when  we  heard  the  arrows 


WE    CARRY   AWAY    THE    SKELETON    OF   AN   AJLTAS.         275 

whistling  about  our  ears.  The  Ajetas,  perched  on  the  tops  of 
the  trees,  waited  for  us  and  attacked  us,  without  our  having 
any  means  of  defence.  Fortunately  night  came  to  our  aid; 
their  arrows,  usually  so  sure,  were  badly  directed,  and  did  not 
touch  us.  While  escaping  we  fired  a  gun  to  frighten  them, 
and  were  soon  able  to  leave  them  far  behind,  without  having 
received  any  other  injury  than  the  alarm,  and  a  sufficient 
notice  of  the  danger  to  be  encountered  in  disturbing  the 
repose  of  their  dead.  On  emerging  from  the  wood,  some 
drops  of  blood  caused  me  to  remark  a  slight  scratch  on  the 
forefinger  of  my  right  hand;  I  attributed  this  to  the  hurry 
of  my  flight,  and  did  not  trouble  myself  much  about  it, 
was  my  practice  with  trifles,  but  continued  my  march  towards 
the  sea-shore. 

We  still  retained  the  skeleton,  which  we  laid  on  the  sandy 
beach,  as  well  as  our  haversacks  and  guns,  and  sat  down  to 
rest  after  the  fatigue  of  the  journey.  My  companions  then 
began  to  make  reflections  on  our  position,  and  my  lieutenant, 
inspired  by  his  affection  for  me,  and  his  sense  of  the  danger 
we  were  exposed  to,  addressed  me  in  the  following  strain : 

"Oh,  master !  what  have  we  done,  and  what  is  to  become 
of  us  ?  To-morrow  morning  the  enraged  Ajetas  will  come  to 
attack  us  for  the  execrable  booty  which  we  have  carried  off 
from  them  at  the  risk  of  our  lives.  If  they  would  attack  in 
the  open  ground,  with  our  guns  we  might  defend  ourselves ; 
but  what  can  one  do  against  those  animals,  perched  here  and 
there  like  monkeys  in  the  top  branches  of  the  trees  of  their 
forest?  Those  places  are  for  them  so  many  fortresses,  from 
which  they  will  to-morrow  shower  down  upon  us  those  darts, 
which,  alas !  never  fail  to  do  mischief.  Luckily  it  was  night 
when  they  attacked  us  just  now,  for  otherwise  we  at  this  hour 


276  TWENTY   YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

should  have  a  lance  through  each  of  our  bodies,  and  then  they 
would  have  cut  off  our  heads  to  serve  as  trophies  for  a  superb 
fete.  Your  head,  master,  would  first  have  been  laid  on  the 
ground,  and  the  brutes  would  have  danced  round  it,  and,  as  our 
leader,  you  would  have  been  a  target  of  honour  for  them  to 
practise  upon. 

"And  now,  master,  all  that  which  would  have  occurred  to  us 
if  the  night  had  not  favoured  our  escape  is  but  deferred,  for, 
alas!  we  cannot  remain  continually  on  this  beach,  although  it 
is  the  only  spot  where  \ve  can  protect  ourselves  against  these 
black  rascals.  We  must  go  to  our  homes,  and  this  we  cannot 
do.  without  passing  through  the  woods  inhabited  by  these 
abominable  creatures,  who  made  us  eat  raw  meat,  and  seasoned 
only  with  cinders.  Well,  master,  before  you  undertook  this 
excursion,  you  ought  to  have  recollected  all  that  happened 
to  us  among  the  Tinguians  and  the  Igorrots." 

I  listened  calmly  to  this  touching  lamentation  of  my  lieu 
tenant,  who  was  perfectly  right  in  all  he  said ;  but  when  he 
finished  I  sought  to  rouse  his  courage,  and  replied : 

"What!  my  brave  Alila !  are  you  afraid?  I  thought  the 
Tic-balan,  and  the  evil  spirits  could  alone  affect  your  courage. 
Do  you  want  to  make  me  think  that  men  like  yourself,  without 
any  arms  but  bad  arrows,  are  enough  to  make  you  quake? 
Come,  enough  of  this  cowardice ;  to-morrow  we  shall  have 
daylight,  and  we  shall  see  what  is  to  be  done.  In  the  mean 
time  let  us  search  for  shell-fish,  for  I  am  very  hungry,  notwith 
standing  the  alarm  into  which  you  are  trying  to  throw  me." 

This  little  sermon  gave  courage  to  Alila,  who  immediately 
set  about  making  a  fire,  and  then,  by  the  aid  of  lighted  bam 
boos,  he  and  his  comrade  went  to  the  rocks  to  find  out  the 
shell-fish. 


A    FORTUNATE    DISCOVERY.  277 

Alila  was  nevertheless  quite  right,  and  I  myself  could  not 
disguise  the  fact,  that  good  luck  alone  could  extricate  us  from 
the  critical  position  in  which  we  were  placed  by  my  fault,  in 
having  thought  of  my  country,  and  in  wishing  to  ornament  the 
Museum  of  Paris  with  a  skeleton  of  an  Ajetas.* 

From  disposition  and  habit  I  was  not  a  man  to  alarm  my 
self  with  any  danger  which  was  not  immediate ;  yet  I  avow 
that  the  last  words  I  had  said  to  Alila : — "  To-morrow  we  shall 
have  daylight,  and  we  shall  see  what  is  to  be  done  :  " — came 
back  to  my  mind,  and  for  a  short  time  occupied  my  thoughts. 

My  Indians  brought  back  a  large  quantity  of  shell-fish, 
sufficient  for  our  supper,  and  Alila  ran  up  quite  breathless, 
saying : 

"  Master,  I  have  made  a  discovery !  A  hundred  steps 
from  this  I  have  found  a  canoe,  which  the  sea  has  cast 
upon  the -beach;  it  is  large  enough  to  hold  us  three.  We 
can  make  use  of  it  to  get  to  Biriangonan,  and  there  we  shall 
be  safe  from  the  poisoned  arrows  of  these  dogs  the  Ajetas." 

This  discovery  was  either  that  Providence  had  come  to  our 
aid,  or  it  was  a  complication  of  dangers  greater  than  those 
reserved  to  us  on  land  on  awaking  in  the  morning. 

I  went  instantly  to  the  spot  where  Alila  had  made  his  im 
portant  discovery,  and  having  disencumbered  the  canoe  from 
the  sand  with  which  it  was  partly  covered,  I  soon  became  certain 
that,  with  some  bamboos,  and  by  stopping  a  few  cracks,  it  would 
be  staunch  enough  to  take  us  over  the  Pacific  ocean,  away  from 
the  Ajetas. 

"Well,"  said  I  to  Alila,  "you  see  I  was  right,  and  you 
must  admit  the  hand  of  Providence  is  here.  Is  it  not  evident 

*  The  skeleton  is  now  in  the  Musee  Anatomique  of  Paris. 


278  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

that  this  fine  boat,  built,  perhaps,  several  thousand  leagues 
from  this,  has  arrived  express  from  the  Polynesian  islands  to 
carry  us  away  from  the  claws  of  the  savages." 

"  True,  master,  true  ;  it  is  our  luck.  To-morrow  they  will 
finely  be  taken  in  on  not  finding  us  here ;  but  let  us  set  to 
work,  for  we  have  much  to  do  before  this  fine  boat,  as  you  call 
it,  will  be  in  a  fit  state  for  going  through  the  water." 

We  immediately  made  a  large  fire  011  the  shore,  and  went 
into  the  woods  to  cut  down  bamboos  and  rattans  ;  then  we  set 
to  work  to  stop  the  holes,  which  decreased  fast  enough  under 
our  handy-work  upon  the  abandoned  canoe. 

Persons  who  have  never  travelled  amongst  the  savages  can 
not  imagine  how,  without  having  been  instructed  in  the  arts, 
and  without  nails,  one  could  stop  up  the  fissures  in  such  a 
boat,  and  put  it  in  a  state  fit  for  sea.  Yet  the  means  were 
rery  simple;  our  poignards,  bamboos,  and  rattans  supplied 
everything ;  by  scraping  a  bamboo  we  obtained  from  it  some 
thing  like  tow,  which  we  put  into  the  chinks,  so  that  the  water 
could  not  enter.  If  it  was  necessary  to  stop  any  breach  a  few 
inches  in  width,  we  took  from  the  bamboo  a  little  plank,  some 
what  larger  than  the  opening  we  wished  to  close,  and  then 
with  the  point  of  the  poignard  we  pierced  it  all  round  with 
little  holes,  to  match  those  which  were  made  in  the  same 
manner  in  the  boat  itself.  Afterwards,  with  long  strings  of 
the  rattan,  which  we  split  up  and  made  fine,  we  sewed  the 
little  plank  to  the  boat,  just  as  one  would  a  piece  of  cloth  on  a 
coat ;  we  covered  the  sewing  with  the  elemi  gum,  and  were  sure 
the  water  could  not  pass  through.  The  rattan  served  instead 
of  hemp,  and  supplied  all  our  necessities  on  the  occasion. 

We  worked  with  ardour  at  this  our  new  and  only  means 
of  safety.  Once  caulked,  we  placed  in  it  two  large  bamboos  as 


WE    EMBARK   IN    DUE    CANOE.  ii 

beams,  for  without  those  beams  we  could  not  have  sailed  for  ten 
minutes  without  being  upset.  Another  bamboo  served  as  our 
mast ;  the  large  sack  of  matting  that  contained  our  skeleton 
was  transformed  into  a  sail.  At  last,  before  the  night  was  far 
advanced,  every  preparation  was  finished.  The  wind  was 
favourable,  and  we  hastened  to  try  our  boat,  and  to  struggle 
with  new  difficulties. 

We  placed  in  the  canoe  our  arms  and* the  skeleton,  the 
cause  of  our  new  troubles ;  we  then  pushed  the  boat  over 
the  sand  and  got  it  afloat.  It  took  us  a  good  half-hour  to 
get  clear  of  the  breakers.  We  were  every  moment  in  danger 
of  being  swamped  by  the  large  waves,  which  rolled  on,  dashing 
against  the  rocks  that  bound  the  shore.  At  last,  after  we 
had  overcome  a  thousand  difficulties  and  dangers,  we  reached 
the  open  sea,  and  the  regular  wave — a  real  movable  mountain 
— lifted  up,  without  any  sudden  shock,  our  frail  boat  almost 
to  the  skies,  and  then  in  the  same  quiet  manner  let  it  sink 
into  an  abyss,  from  which  it  was  again  raised  to  the  top  of  a 
liquid  mountain.  These  large  waves,  which  follow  each 
other  usually  from  interval  to  interval  very  regularly,  cause 
no  danger  to  a  good  pilot,  who  takes  the  precaution  of  turn 
ing  the  prow  of  his  boat  so  as  to  meet  them.  But  woe  to 
him  if  he  forgets  himself,  and  makes  a  false  manoeuvre,  he 
is  then  sure  to  be  upset  and  wrecked.  Being  used  to  the 
management  of  canoes,  and,  more  confident  in  my  own 
vigilance  when  at  sea  than  in  that  of  my  Indians,  I  took  the 
helm.  The  wind  was  favourable  ;  we  set  up  our  little  sail,  and 
went  very  fast,  although  every  moment  I  was  obliged  to  turn 
the  prow  to  the  heavy  waves.  We  were  already  a  sufficient 
distance  from  the  shore  not  to  fear,  if  the  wind  changed,  that 
we  should  be 'driven  in  among  the  breakers.  Everything  led 


280  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

us  to  expect  a  safe  voyage,  when  unfortunately  my  poor  Indians 
were  taken  ill.  They  had  never  sailed  before  except  on  the 
lakes  of  fresh  water,  and  were  now  attacked  with  sea-sick 
ness.  This  was  vexatious  to  me,  for  I  knew  from  experience 
that  a  person  so  attacked  for  the  first  time  is  altogether  in 
capable  of  rendering  any  service,  and  even  of  protecting  himself 
against  the  smallest  danger  that  threatens  him.  I  had  no  one 
to  aid  me  in  managing  the  boat,  and  was  obliged  to  rely  on 
my  own  exertions.  I  told  him  who  held  the  sheet  of  the  sail 
to  hand  it  to  me,  and  I  twisted  it  round  my  foot,  for  both  my 
hands  were  engaged  in  holding  the  paddle  which  was  our  helm. 
My  Indians,  like  two  inanimate  bodies,  lay  at  the  bottom  of 
the  boat. 

When  I  reflect  on  my  position, — on  the  ocean,  in  a  frail 
boat;  having  only  for  helps  two  individuals  who  conld  not 
move,  two  skulls,  and  a  skeleton  of  an  Ajetas, — 1  cannot 
help  thinking  that  the  reader  may  imagine  that  I  have 
concocted  a  story  for  his  amusement.  However,  I  relate 
facts  exactly  as  they  occurred,  and  I  leave  all  at  liberty  to 
believe  as  they  please. 

I  was,  as  it  were,  alone  in  my  frail  boat,  struggling  continually 
with  the  large  waves,  which  obliged  me  every  moment  to  deviate 
from  the  course.  I  longed  for  daylight,  for  I  hoped  to  be  able 
to  discern  the  beach  of  Binaugonan  de  Lampon,  as  a  place  of 
refuge,  where  I  should  find  the  frank  hospitality  and  the  valu- 
able  assistance  of  my  old  friends. 

At  last  the  long-wished-for  sun  arose  above,  the  horizon,  and 
I  saw  that  we  were  about  three  leagues  from  the  coast.  I  had 
gone  far  too  much  out  to  sea,  and  had  passed  Binangonan  a 
long  way.  It  was  not  possible  to  steer  back,  the  wind  would 
not  allow  it ;  so  I  decided  on  pursuing  the  same  course,  and  on 


WE    ARRIVE    AT    THE    VILLAGE    OF   MAOBAN.  281 

doing  my  best  to  reach,  before  night,  Maoban,  a  large  Tagaloc 
village,  situate  on  the  coast  of  Luzon,  and  which  is  separated 
by  a  small  ridge  of  mountains  from  the  lake  of  Bay.  The  first 
rays  of  the  sun  and  a  little  calm  restored  my  Indians  to  a 
state  of  being  able  to  render  me  some  service.  We  passed 
the  day  without  eating  or  drinking,  and  we  had  the  regret  of 
seeing  that  we  had  not  attained  our  purpose.  Our  position 
was  most  distressing :  a  storm  might  riser  the  wind  might 
blow  with  force,  and  our  only  resource  then  would  be  to  throw 
ourselves  into  the  breakers,  and  to  reach  the  shore  as  well  as 
we  could.  But  luckily  nothing  of  the  kind  took  place ;  and 
about  midnight  we  knew,  from  meeting  a  small  island,  that  we 
were  in  front  of  the  village  of  Maoban.  I  steered  to  it,  and 
in  a  short  time  we  arrived  in  a  calm  quiet  bay,  near  a  sandy 
shore.  The  fatigue  and  want  of  food  had  thoroughly  exhausted 
my  strength.  I  had  no  sooner  landed  than  I  threw  myself  on  the 
ground,  and  fell  into  a  deep  sleep,  which  lasted  until  day.  When 
I  awoke  I  found  the  sun's  rays  were  shining  full  upon  me  : 
it  was  near  seven  o'clock.  On  any  other  occasion  I  should 
have  been  ashamed  of  my  laziness,  but  could  I  feel  dissatisfied 
with  myself  for  sleeping  soundly  after  thirty-six  hours'  fasting, 
and  spent  in  such  extraordinary  exertions.  During  my  sleep 
one  of  my  Indians  went  into  the  village  in  search  of  provisions, 
and  I  found  excellent  rice  and  salt  fish  near  me.  We  made  a 
delicious  and  splendid  breakfast.  My  Indians,  on  behalf  of 
the  inhabitants,  asked  me  to  go  to  the  village,  and  spend  the 
day,  but  I  was  too  eager  to  reach  home.  I  knew  by  walking 
quickly  we  could  get  through  the  mountains,  and  arrive  at  night 
on  the  banks  of  the  lake,  within  a  few  hours'  journey  from  my 
house.  I  determined  to  start  without  any  delay.  We  took  our 
things  out  of  the  boat ;  the  little  sail  retook  its  former  shape, 


282  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

as  a  sack,  to  hold  the  skulls  and  the  skeleton,  the  cause  of 
all  the  disasters  to  -which  we  had  been  exposed,  and,  with  re 
united  strength,  and  abundant  provisions  for  the  day,  we  began 
to  mount  the  high  hills  which  separate  the  gulf  of  Maoban  from 
the  lake  of  Bay.  The  journey  was  laborious  and  painful.  At 
seven  o'clock  we  embarked  on  the  lake,  and  towards  mid 
night  we  reached  Jala-Jala,  where  I  very  speedily  forgot  all 
the  toil  and  trouble  of  my  long  and  dangerous  journey,  while 
pressing  my  son  in  my  arms  and  covering  him  with  paternal 
kisses. 

My  excellent  friend  Vidie,  to  whom  I  sold  my  house  and 
establishment,  gave  me  letters  which  he  had  received  from 
Manilla,  and  from  them  I  learned  that  my  presence  was  desired 
there  on  affairs  of  importance.  I  resolved  to  start  on  the  follow 
ing  day. 


View  of  Manilla  from  the  Environs. 


CHAPTEE    XIII 

I  Determine  not  again  to  Separate  from  my  Son — I  take  him  to  Manilla — The  Effects 
of  the  Wound  I  received  among  the  Ajetas — My  Recovery — Kindness  of  the 
Spanish  and  other  Inhabitants  of  Manilla — Illness  of  my  Son— I  return  with 
him  to  Jala-Jala—Sorrowful  Remembrances — The  Death  of  my  poor  Boy— 
His  Interment — My  frantic  Grief  and  Despair — I  Determine  to  Quit  the 
Philippines — I  am  Called  to  Manilla  by  Madame  Dolores  Seneris — My  Final 
Departure  from  Jala-Jala — I  Arrive  at  Manilla,  where  I  resume  Practice  as  a 
Surgeon — I  Embark  for  France — Discontent — My  Travels  through  Europe — 
I  Marry  again — Death  of  my  Mother  and  my  Second  Wife — Conclusion. 

TJAVING  now  concluded  my  last  trip  into  the  interior  of  the 
Philippines,  I  was  desirous  of  not  separating  myself  again 
from  my  son,  the  only  being  that  remained  to  me  of  all  those 
whom  I  had  loved  so  tenderly.  I  took  him  with  me  to  Manilla ; 
but  I  did  not  altogether  bid  farewell  to  Jala-Jala,  yet  I  had 
almost  the  intention  of  never  going  back  to  it. 

The  journey  was  as  agreeable  as  my  melancholy  recollections 


2  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

would  permit.  I  experienced  such  pleasure  in  holding  my  boy 
in  my  arms,  and  in  receiving  his  gentle  caresses,  that  I 
occasionally  forgot  every  sorrow. 

I  arrived  at  Manilla,  and  took  up  my  quarters  in  the  envi 
rons,  at  the  abode  of  Baptiste  Vidie,  brother  of  the  friend 
\\hom  I  had  left  at  Jala- Jala. 

After  my  escape  from  the  Ajetas,  I  had  noticed  a  small 
wound  on  the  forefinger  of  my  right  hand,  which  I  attributed 
to  having  been  accidentally  scratched  by  a  branch  or  a  thorn, 
while  we  were  endeavouring  to  make  our  escape  with  such 
precipitation  from  the  arrows  which  the  savages  let  fly  at 
us.  The  first  night  I  spent  at  Manilla,  I  felt  in  the  place 
where  the  wound  was  such  extreme  pain  that  I  fell  down 
twice  totally  senseless.  The  agony  increased  every  instant, 
and  became  so  violent  that  I  could  no  longer  doubt  that  it 
was  caused  by  the  poison  of  an  arrow,  shot  at  me  by  the 
Ajetas.  I  sent  for  one  of  my  confreres,  and  after  a  most 
careful  examination,  he  made  a  large  incision,  which  did  not, 
however,  afford  me  any  relief:  the  hand,  on  the  contrary, 
festered  up.  By  little  and .  little  the  inflammation  extended 
itself  up  my  arm,  and  I  was  soon  in  an  alarming  state. 

In  short,  after  suffering  during  a  whole  month,  and  after 
the  most  cruel  incertitude,  it  seemed  that  the  poison  had  passed 
into  my  breast.  I  could  not  sleep  for  an  instant ;  and,  in  spite 
of.  me,  dead  and  painful  cries  came  forth  from  my  breast, 
which  was  on  fire.  My  eyes  were  veiled — I  could  not  see ;  a 
burning  sweat  covered  my  face  ;  my  blood  was  on  fire,  and  did 
not  circulate  in  my  veins ;  my  life  seemed  about  to  become 
extinct.  The  medical  men  declared  that  I  could  not  pass 
through  the  night.  According  to  the  usages  of  the  country, 
I  was  told  that  I  ought  to  regulate  my  affairs  for  death.  I 


THE    EFFECTS    OF    MY    POISONED    WOUND.  285 

asked  that  the  consul-general  of  France,  my  excellent  friend 
Adolphe  Barrot,  should  be  sent  for. 

Adolphe  I  knew  to  be  a  man  of  true  heart  and  affection, 
and  to  him  I  recommended  my  poor  boy.  He  promised  to 
take  care  of  him  as  if  he  were  his  own  son,  to  take  him  to 
France,  and  to  give  him  over  to  my  family. 

Lastly  a  good  Dominican  friar  came,  and  with  him  I  had 
several  long  conferences,  and  after  he  had  dispensed  to  me  the 
consolations  of  his  ministry,  he  gave  me  extreme  unction. 
Everything  was  done  according  to  the  customary  form,  and 
nothing  was  wanting  but  my  death. 

However,  amidst  all  these  preparations,  I  alone  was  not  so 
eager;  and,  although  in  excessive  anguish,  I  preserved  my 
presence  of  mind,  and  declared  J  should  not  die.  Was  it 
courage  ?  Was  it  great  confidence  in  my  strength  and  robust 
health,  which  made  me  believe  in  my  recovery?  Was  it  a 
presentiment,  or  was  it  an  inward  voice  which  told  me  :  "  The 
doctors  are  wrong,  and  how  great  will  be  their  surprise  to 
morrow  on  finding  me  better  ?  "  In  short.  I  did  not  wish  to  die  ; 
for,  according  to  my  system,  my  will  ought  to  stop  the  order  of 
nature,  and  to  make  me  survive  all  imaginable  pain. 

The  following  day  I  was  better:  the  doctors  found  my 
pulse  regular,  and  without  any  intermitting  symptom.  Some 
days  afterwards  the  poison  passed  out  to  my  skin :  my  whole 
body  was  covered  with  a  miliary  eruption,  and  thenceforth  I 
was  safe.  My  recovery  was  very  gradual,  and  for  more  than  a 
year  I  felt  acute  pains  in  my  breast. 

During  the  course  of  my  illness  I  received  the  kindest 
attention  from  my  fellow-countrymen,  arid  in  general  from  all 
the  Spanish  inhabitants  of  Manilla ;  and  here  I  ought  to  state, 
to  the  praise  of  the  latter  class,  that  during  twenty  years  spent 


286  TWENTY    YEAES    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

in  the  Philippines,  I  always  found  amongst  those  with  whom 
I  had  dealings,  a  great  nobleness  of  soul  and  a  devotednessfree 
from  egotism.  I  shall  never  forget  the  kindnesses  T  received 
from  this  noble  race,  for  which  I  entertain  feelings  of  the 
warmest  gratitude.  To  me,  every  Spaniard  is  a  brother;  and 
to  him  I  shall  always  be  happy  to  prove  that  his  countrymen 
have  not  conferred  obligations  on  an  ungrateful  character.  I 
hope  the  roader  will  pardon  me  for  having  quitted  my  subject 
for  a  short  time  to  fulfil  the  duty  of  gratitude ;  but  are  they 
not  my  recollections  which  I  am  detailing  ?  * 


*  Gratitude  here  requires  that  I  should  name  some  of  those  to  whom  I 
am  specially  indebted  for  marks  of  affection  and  kindness.  It  would  be 
indeed  ungrateful  on  my  part  to  forget  them,  and  I  beg  them  to  accept  this 
proof  of  my  recollections. 

The  Governors  of  the  Philippines  to  whom  I  owe  these  remembrances 
are  : — Generals  Martin&s,  Ricafort,  Torres  Enrile,  Camba,  and  Salazar ;  in 
the  various  administrations  of  the  colony,  the  Judges  (Oidores)  Don  Inigo 
Asaola,  Otin-i  Doazo,  Don  Matias  Mier,  Don  Jacobo  Varela,  administrator- 
general  of  the  liquors ;  Don  Jose  de  la  Euente,  commissary  of  the  engi 
neers,  who  icndered  me  innumerable  kindnesses;  Colonel  Don  Thomas  dc 
Murieta,  corregidor  of  Tondoc ;  the  colonel  of  engineers,  Don  Mariano 
Goicochea;  the  Colonel- Commandant  Lante  Romana;  the  Governor  of 
the  province,  Don  Jose  Atienza ;  the  brothers  Ramos,  sons  of  the  judge  ; 
all  the  family  Calderon ;  that  of  Seneris  ;  Don  Balthazar  Mier,  Don  Jose 
Ascaraga ;  and  lastly  my  friend,  Don  Domingo  Rcxas,  whose  son,  Don 
Mariano  Roxas,  after  having  received  a  solid  and  brilliant  education  at 
Manilla,  came  to  travel  in  Europe.  He  has  acquired  the  most  extensive 
information  in  the  sciences  and  arts,  and  when  he  shall  have  returned  to 
the  Philippine  Islands,  he  will  most  worthily  replace  his  dignified  father, 
\vhom  a  premature  death  has  snatched  away  from  the  industry,  the  agri 
culture,  and  the  advancement  of  his  country.  If  gratitude  has  induced  me 
to  mention  here  the  Spaniards  from  whom  I  experienced  many  acts  of 
kindness,  the  same  feeling  compels  me  to  allude  to  an  English  gentleman 
to  whom  I  was  indebted  for  one  of  those  important  services  which  are 
never  to  be  forgotten.  I  allude  to  Mr.  Thomas  Dent,  with  whom  I  have 
frequently  conversed  upon  our  hunting  parties  at  Jala-Jala,  in  which  he 
was  occasionally  one  of  the  principal  actors. 


ILLNESS    OF    MY    SON.  287 

The  wish  to  undertake,  together  with  my  boy,  the  voyage 
which  would  restore  me  to  my  country ;  the  hope  of  seeing 
my  kind  good  mother,  my  sisters,  and  all  the  friends  whom  I 
had  left  behind,  reconciled  me  somewhat  to  existence,  and 
made  me  experience  a  little  happiness.  I  was  awaiting  with 
impatience  the  time  for  embarking  ;  but,  alas  !  my  mission  was 
not  yet  terminated  in  the  Philippines,  and  a  new  catastrophe, 
quickly  opened  afresh  all  my  sorrows. 

I  was  scarcely  recovered,  when  my  dear  boy — my  sole  de 
light  the  last  beloved  being  that  remained  to  me  on  this  earth,  so 
fruitful  in  joys,  and  still  so  destructive  of  them— my  poor 
Henry  fell  suddenly  ill,  and  his  disease  made  the  most  rapid 
progress.  My  friends  immediately  foreboded  that  a  great  mis  • 
fortune  would  befall  me.  I  alone  did  not  know  the  state  in 
which  my  child  really  was.  I  loved  him  with  such  an  ardent 
passion,  that  I  believed  it  impossible  that  Providence  would 
deprive  me  of  him.  My  medical  attendant,  or  rather  my 
friend,  Genu,  advised  me  to  take  him  to  Jala-Jala,  where  his 
native  air  and  the  country,  as  he  said,  would  without  doubt 
promote  his  recovery.  I  liked  the  advice,  for  so  many  persons 
had  recovered  their  health  at  Jala-Jala  that  I  hoped  for  my 
child  a  similar  good  result.  I  set  out  with  him  and  his 
governess ;  the  voyage  was  one  of  sadness,  for  I  saw  my  poor 
boy  continually  suffering,  without  being  able  to  afford  him  any 
relief. 

On  our  arrival  Vidie  came  to  receive  us,  and  in  a  few 
moments  I  occupied,  with  my  Henry,  the  room  which  bi  ought 
to  my  remembrance  two  very  sorrowful  losses — the  death  of 
my  little  daughter  and  that  of  my  beloved  Anna.  It  was,  more 
over,  in  that  very  room  my  Henry  was  born, — a  cruel  association 
of  the  happiest  moments  of  my  existence  with  that  when  T  was 


288  TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES 

bewailing  the  state  of  my  beloved  bo}T.  Nevertheless,  I  did  not 
altogether  despair,  for  I  had  hopes  in  my  art  and  experience. 
T  seated  myself  by  his  bedside,  and  did  not  leave  him  for  a 
moment.  I  slept  close  to  him,  and  I  passed  every  day  in 
administering  the  medicine  and  all  the  comforts  in  my  power, 
but  without  any  good  result,  or  any  relief  fotf  his  sufferings.  I 
lost  all  hope,  and  on  the  ninth  day  after  our  arrival  the  dear 
boy  expired  in  my  arms. 

It  is  not  possible  for  me  to  give  an  account  of  my  feelings 
on  this  last  trial.  My  heart  was  broken,  my  head  on  fire  !  I 
became  mad,  and  never  did  despair  take  such  a  hold  on  me. 
I  listened  to  nothing  but  my  sorrow  ;  and  force  became  neces 
sary  to  tear  from  my  arms  the  mortal  remains  of  my  child. 

On  the  following  day  he  was  laid  close  to  his  mother,  and 
another  tomb  was  erected  in  the  church  of  Jala- Jala. 

In  vain  did  my  friend  Vidie  endeavour  to  afford  me  con 
solation,  or  to  change  the  current  of  my  affliction.  Several  times 
he  tried  to  remove  me  from  the  fatal  room,  which  I  now 
looked  upon  as  a  scene  of  misfortunes,  but  he  could  not 
succeed.  I  hoped  at  the  time — and  I  also  thought  that  I  too 
had  a  right— to  die  there,  where  my  wife  and  my  son  had 
breathed  their  last  sighs.  My  tears  refused  to  flow,  and  even 
words  failed  me  to  express  the  full  extent  of  my  grief.  An 
ardent  fever,  which  devoured  me,  was  far  too  slow  for  the 
eagerness  of  my  wishes.  In  a  moment  of  bewilderment,  I  was 
near  committing  the  greatest  act  of  cowardice  which  man  can 
perpetrate  against  his  Creator.  I  double-locked  the  door; 
I  seized  the  poignard  which  I  had  so  often  used  to  protect 
my  life,  and  pointed  it  against  myself.  I  was  already  choosing 
the  spot  in  which  I  should  strike,  in  order  by  one  blow  to 
terminate  my  miserable  existence.  My  arm,  strengthened 


MY    THOUGHTS    IN    MY    DELIRIUM.  289 

by  delirium,  was  about  to  smite  my  breast,  when  one  sudden 
thought  came  to  prevent  me  from  consummating  the  crime  which 
has  no  pardon — although  the  crime  of  despair.  My  mother,  my 
poor  mother,  whom  I  had  so  much  loved,  my  good  mother  pre 
sented  herself  to  my  mind,  and  said  to  me :  "  Thou  wouldst 
abandon  me — I  shall  see  thee  no  more  !"  I  recollected  then 
the  words  of  Anna  :  "  Go,  and  see  thy  mother  again !''  This 
thought  changed  my  resolution  completely.  I  threw  the  po 
niard  aside  with  horror,  and  fell  on  my  bed  quite  exhausted. 
My  eyes,  which  during  many  days  had  been  dry  and  burning, 
were  once  again  overflowing  with  tears,  which  removed  the 
heavy  weight  from  my  lacerated  heart. 

The  force  of  mind  of  which  I  stood  so  much  in  need  was 
awakened  again  within  me  :  I  no  longer  thought  of  death,  but 
of  fulfilling  my  rigorous  destiny.  Calmed  and  relieved  already 
by  the  abundant  flow  of  tears,  I  gave  myself  wholly  up  to  the 
idea  of  embracing  my  mother  and  my  sisters.  Then  I  wished 
to  add  the  following  pages  to  my  journal.  My  head  was  not  tho 
roughly  right.  I  shall  translate  what  I  then  wrote  in  Spanish, 
which  was  my  adopted  and  familiar  language,  in  preference  even 
to  French,  which  I  had  scarcely  spoken  during  twenty  years  :— 

"  How  have  I  strength  to  take  this  pen  ?  My  poor  boy ! — 
my  son ! — my  beloved  Henry ! — is  no  more :  his  soul  has  flown  to 
his  Creator !  Oh,  God  !  pardon  this  complaint  in  my  distress. 
What  have  I  done  to  be  thus  cruelly  afflicted?  My  boy ! — 
my  dear  son ! — my  only  hope ! — my  last  happiness  ! — I  shall 
never  again  see  thee  !  Formerly  I  was  happy ;  I  had  my  good 
Anna  and  my  dear  child ;  but  cruel  fate  soon  tore  my  com 
panion  from  me.  My  trouble  was  indeed  great,  and  my  afflic 
tion  was  profound ;  but  thou  wast  still  with  me,  Oh,  my  child ! 
and  all  my  affections  were  concentrated  in  thee.  With  thy 

N 


290  'TWENTY   YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

caresses  thou  didst  dry  my  tears ;  thy  smile  was  like  that  of 
thy  mother,  and  thy  heautiful  features  reminded  me  of  her, 
and  in  thee  I  found  her  again.  But  to-day,  alas !  I  have  lost 
you  both.  What  a  void !  Oh,  God !  what  a  solitude !  Ofa !  I 
ought  to  die  in  this  room  which  is  the  depository  of  all  my 
misfortunes.  Here  I  bewailed  my  poor  brother ;  here  I  closed 
the  eyes  of  my  daughter  ;  here,  also,  Anna,  when  dying,  bade 
me,  bathed  in  tears,  her  last  adieus ;  and  here  at  last,  thou, 
my  son,  they  tore  thee  from  my  arms,  to  lay  thee  near  the  ashes 
df  thy  mother. 

"So  many  afflictions  and  so  many  troubles  for  one  man ! 
Oh,  God  of  goodness  and  mercy,  will  you  not  restore  to  me 
my  poor  child  ?  Alas !  I  scarcely  feel  that  I  am  mistaken : 
but  He  will  pity  my  bewilderment — he  who  has  been  beloved 
and  who  has  seen  carried  off,  one  by  one,  all  the  elements  of 
his  happiness.  As  for  me,  an  isolated  being,  and  henceforward 
useless  on  this  earth,  it  matters  little  where  I  shall  sink  under 
the  weight  of  my  afflictions.  If  it  was  not  from  the  hope  of 
seeing  my  mother  and  sisters,  I  should  terminate  my  wretched 
existence,  my  grave  should  be  with  you — you  all ! — whom  I 
loved  so  much.  I  should  remain  near  you,  and  during  the 
rest  of  my  miserable  existence  I  should  every  day  visit  your 
tombs !  But  no  ;  a  sacred  duty  obliges  me  to  leave  you,  and 
to  separate  for  ever  from  you.  Cruel !  Oh,  cruel  indeed  will  be 
the  hour  when  I  shall  depart  from  you.  And  thou  my  beloved, 
my  good,  excellent  wife,  my  Anna,  thy  last  words  shall  be 
accomplished.  I  will  set  out,  but  regret  and  grief  accom 
pany  me  during  the  voyage ;  my  heart  and  my  memory  will 
remain  at  Jala-Jala.  Oh  !  land  bedewed  with  my  sweat,  with 
my  blood,  and  with  my  tears !  when  fate  brought  me  to  thy 
shores  thou  wast  covered  with  dismal  forests  which  this  day 


KIND    SYMPATHY    OF    MY    FRIEND    YIDIE.  £91 

have  given  place  to  rich  harvests :  among  thy  inhabitants  order, 
abundance,  and  prosperity  have  taken  the  place  of  debauchery 
and  misery.  My  efforts  were  crowned  with  full  success ;  all 
was  prosperity  around  me.  Alas !  I  was  too  happy !  But 
while  misfortune  strikes  me  down  and  overwhelms  me,  it  will 
have  stricken  me  alone,  my  work  will  outlive  me.  You  will  be 
happy,  Oh,  my  friends !  and  if  I  myself  have  been  so  in  con 
tributing  to  your  welfare,  let  a  thought  sometimes  awaken  your 
feelings  towards  him  to  whom  you  often  gave  the  name  of 
'  Father ;'  and  if  you  preserve  gratitude  towards  him,  Oh,  take  a 
religious  care  of  the  tombs,  trebly  dear  to  him,  which  he  now 
intrusts  to  you." 

My  readers  will  pardon  this  melancholy  and  long  lamenta 
tion  ;  they  will  understand  it  if  they  examine  with  care  my 
position.  Separated  from  my  country  by  five  thousand  five 
hundred  leagues,  the  stroke  of  fate  which  laid  all  my  cherished 
hopes  in  the  dust  was  the  more  acutely  felt  as  it  was  unexpected. 
I  had  no  relatives  in  the  Philippines ;  in  France  alone  I  might 
yet  find  some  affections ;  and,  at  the  moment  of  quitting  Jala- 
Jala  for  ever,  the  idea  of  parting  with  my  Indians — attached, 
devoted,  as  they  were  to  me — was  an  additional  grief  to  the 
many  which  overpowered  me.  Thus  I  could  not  resolve  to 
acquaint  them  beforehand  of  this  separation.  I  remained  in 
my  room,  without  quitting  it  even  at  meal  times.  My  friend 
Vidie  did  everything  possible  to  prepare  me  for  these  adieus, 
and  to  console  me.  He  pressed  me  to  start  speedily  for 
Manilla,  and  to  make  arrangements  for  my  departure;  but  an 
irresistible  force  retained  me  at  Jala-Jala.  I  was  weak ;  my 
heart  was  so  crushed  by  sorrows  that  I  had  no  courage  to 
adopt  any  resolutions.  I  put  it  off  from  day  to  day,  and  from 
day  to  day  I  was  more  undecided.  An  unexpected  occasion 


TWENTY    YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

was  necessary  in  order  to  conquer  my  apathy ;  it  was  requisite 
also  to  triumph  over  me  by  sentiments  of  gratitude — senti 
ments  which  I  could  never  resist. 

On  this  occasion  the  motive  which  decided  my  departure 
was  furnished  by  Providence.  I  had  a  friend  in  Manilla,  a 
lady  of  angelic  goodness,  gentleness,  and  devotedness.  United 
from  the  period  of  my  arrival  in  the  most  intimate  manner 
with  all  her  family,  I  had  known  her  as  a  child,  and  after 
wards  married  to  a  highly  honourable  man,  of  whom  when 
she  was  subsequently  bereaved,  I  afforded  her  all  the  consola 
tions  which  the  sincerest  friendship  could  offer.  She  was  a 
witness  of  the  happiness  which  I  enjoyed  with  my  dear  Anna, 
and,  hearing  that  I  was  unhappy,  she  did  not  hesitate  to  under 
take  a  long  journey,  and  in  her  turn  to  come  and  take  a  part 
in  my  troubles.  The  excellent  Dolores  Seneris  arrived  one 
morning  at  Jala-Jala ;  she  threw  herself  into  my  arms,  and 
for  some  moments  tears  alone  were  the  interpreters  of  our 
thoughts.  When  we  recovered  from  our  first  emotions,  she 
told  me  that  she  had  come  to  take  me  away,  and  she  herself 
made  the  preparations  for  my  departure.  I  was  too  grateful 
for  this  proof  of  the  friendship  of  the  good  Dolores  not  to 
acquiesce  in  her  wishes,  and  it  was  decided  that  on  the  follow 
ing  day  I  should  quit  Jala-Jala  for  ever. 

The  report  was  soon  spread  among  my  Indians.  They  all 
came  to  bid  me  farewell :  they  wept,  and  they  said  to  me  : 

"  Oh,  master,  do  not  deprive  us  of  all  hope  of  seeing  you 
again.  Go,  and  receive  consolation  from  your  mother,  and  then 
return  to  your  children."  That  day  was  filled  with  most  dis 
tressing  feelings. 

The  day  following  was  Sunday.  I  went  to  say  adieu  to 
the  remains  of  those  whom  I  had  loved  even  in  their  tombs. 


MY    FINAL    DEPARTURE    FROM   JALA-JALA.  293 

I  heard  for  the  last  time  the  divine  service  in  the  modest 
little  church  which  I  had  erected,  and  in  which  for  a  long 
time,  surrounded  by  my  dearest  friends,  I  was  happy  to  as 
semble,  on  the  same  day  of  the  week,  the  small  congregation 
of  Jala-Jala. 

After  the  service  I  proceeded  to  the  beach,  where  the  boat 
was  waiting,  which  was  to  take  me  to  Manilla.  There — sur 
rounded  by  my  Indians,  the  good  parish  priest,  Padre  Miguel, 
and  my  friend  Vidie — I  bade  adieu  to  them  all  for  the  last  time. 
Dolores  and  I  got  into  the  boat,  which  was  scarcely  pushed 
off  from  the  shore  when  every  arm  was  stretched  out  towards 
me,  and  everyone  exclaimed  : — "  May  your  voyage  be  happy, 
master !  And,  oh !  return  soon !  " 

One  of  the  oldest  Indians  made  a  sign  for  silence,  and 
then  in  a  loud  voice  uttered  these  solemn  words : — "  Brothers, 
let  us  weep  and  pray,  for  the  sun  is  obscured  to  us;  the 
star  which  is  going  has  shed  light  on  our  best  days,  and 
now  for  the  future,  being  deprived  of  that  light,  we  cannot  tell 
how  long  will  last  the  night  in  which  we  are  plunged  by  the 
misfortune  of  his  departure." 

This  exhortation  of  the  old  Indian  were  the  last  words  that 
reached  us :  the  boat  moved  away  as  I,  for  the  last  time,  fixed 
my  eyes  on  the  beloved  land  which  I  was  never  again  to  behold. 

We  reached  Manilla  late :  it  was  one  of  those  enchanting 
nights,  which  I  have  described  in  the  happy  period  of  my 
voyages.  Dolores  insisted  that  I  should  not  lodge  in  any 
house  but  hers.  Before  she  set  out  her  careful  friendship 
had  provided  for  everything.  I  was  surrounded  by  all  those 
little  attentions  of  which  woman  alone  has  the  secret,  and 
which  she  knows  how  to  confer  with  such  grace  on  him  who 
is  the  object  for  whom  they  are  designed. 


294  TWENTY    YEAKS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

My  windows  looked  on  the  pretty  river  Pasig.  I  there 
passed  whole  days  in  looking  at  thb  graceful  Indian  canoes 
gliding  over  the  water,  and  receiving  the  visits  of  my  friends, 
who  carne  with  eagerness  to  endeavour  to  divert  my  thoughts, 
and  to  afford  sources  of  pleasing  conversation. 

When  I  was  alone  I  sought  to  dispel  my  melancholy  by 
thinking  of  my  voyage ;  on  the  happiness  I  should  experience 
on  seeing  again  my  poor  mother  and  sisters,  a  brother-in-law 
whom  I  did  not  know,  and  nieces  born  during  my  absence. 

The  obligation  of  returning  the  visits  I  received,  and  the 
re-establishment  of  my  health,  allowed  me  at  length  to  enter 
into  affairs  connected  with  my  departure. 

My  friend  Adolphe  Barrot,  consul-general  of  France,  was 
every  day  in  expectation  of  intelligence  from  his  government, 
with  orders  for  his  return  home.  He  proposed  to  me  to  wait  for 
him,  so  that  we  might  make  the  voyage  together.  I  accepted 
the  proposal  with  pleasure,  and  we  decided  amongst  ourselves 
that,  for  our  return,  we  should  take  the  route  of  India,  of  the 
Red  Sea,  and  of  Egypt. 

While  I  stayed  at  Manilla  I  did  not  wish  to  be  idle.  The 
Spaniards  reminded  me  that  at  a  former  epoch  I  had  carried 
on  the  art  of  medicine,  and  with  great  success.  I  soon  had 
patients  from  all  quarters  of  the  island,  and  I  resumed  my 
old  profession,  and  gave  advice.  But  what  difference  between 
this  time  and  that  of  my  debut.  Then  I  was  young,  full  of 
strength  and  of  hope ;  then  I  indulged  in  the  illusions  usual  to 
youth  ;  a  long  future  of  happiness  presented  itself  to  my  ima 
gination.  Now,  overwhelmed  by  the  weight  of  troubles  and  of 
the  laborious  works  I  had  executed,  there  was  only  one  wish 
to  excite  me,  and  that  was,  to  see  France  again  ;  and  yet  my 
recollections  took  me  continually  back  to  Jala- Jala.  Poor  little 


I    RESUME    PRACTICE   AT  MANILLA.  295 

corner  of  the  globe,  which  I  civilised !  where  my  best  years 
were  spent  in  a  life  of  labour,  of  emotions,  of  happiness,  and  of 
bitterness !  Poor  Indians !  who  loved  me  so  much !  I  was 
never  to  see  you  again !  We  were  soon  to  be  separated  by  the 
immensity  of  the  ocean. 

Eeflections  and  recollections  beyond  number  thus  occupied 
my  mind.  But,  alas !  it  is  vain  to  struggle  against  one's  destiny; 
and  Providence,  in  its  impenetrable  views,  was  reserving  me  for 
rude  trials  and  fresh  misfortunes. 

Having  again  become  a  doctor  at  Manilla,  where  I  had 
such  difficulty  at  my  commencement,  I  visited  patients  from 
morning  until  night.  To  Dolores  and  to  her  sister  Trinidad 
I  was  indebted  for  the  most  touching  and  most  delicate  atten 
tions,  calculated  to  heal  the  wounds  which  were  still  bleeding  in 
the  bottom  of  my  heart.  I  frequently  saw  the  two  sisters  of 
my  poor  wife,  Joaquina  and  Mariquita,  as  well  as  my  young 
niece,  the  daughter  of  excellent  Josephine,  for  whom  I  had 
entertained  so  warm  a  friendship,  and  who  so  soon  followed 
my  darling  Anna  to  the  grave.  By  little  and  little  I  was 
forming  new  ties  of  affection,  which  I  was  soon  to  break,  and 
never  afterwards  to  renew.  I  could  not  forget  Jala-Jala,  and 
my  recollections  never  quitted  that  place  where  were  deposited 
the  remains  of  those  whom  of  all  the  world  I  had  most  loved. 
My  eager  wishes  induced  me  to  hope  that  my  work  of  coloni 
sation  should  continue,  and  that  my  friend  Vidie  should  find 
some  compensation  for  the  rough  task  he  had  undertaken.  At 
this  period,  even  while  I  remained  in  Manilla,  a  great  misfor 
tune  was  nearly  the  cause  of  throwing  Jala-Jala  back  into  its 
former  state  of  barbarism.  The  bandits,  who  always  respected 
the  place  while  I  was  in  possession  of  it,  came  one  night  to 
attack  it,  and  made  themselves  masters  of  the  house  in  which 


296  TWENTY   YEARS   IN   THE    PHILIPPINES. 

Vidie  had  shut  himself  up,  and  defended  until  he  was  forced 
to  escape  out  of  a  window,  and  to  run  and  hide  in  the  woods, 
leaving  his  daughter,  then  very  young,  to  the  care  of  an  Indian 
nurse.  The  handits  pillaged  and  shattered  everything  in  the 
house  ;  wounded  his  daughter  by  a  sabre-cut,  of  which  to  this 
day  she  bears  the  marks  ;  and  then  went  off  with  the  plunder 
they  had  made.  But  Jala- Jala  had  become  too  important  a 
point  to  be  neglected ;  and  the  Spanish  government  sent 
troops  to  it,  to  protect  Vidie,  and  to  maintain  order. 

At  last,  Adolphe  Barrot  received  from  the  French  govern 
ment  the  long  awaited  instructions  to  return  home ;  all  my 
preparations  were  made  for  setting  out.  It  was  in  1839 : 
twenty  years  had  passed  over  since  I  left  my  country,  which  I 
was  now  about  to  return  to  with  satisfaction.  For  a  long  time  I 
had  received  no  news  from  my  mother,  and  the  pleasure  which 
I  anticipated  from  seeing  her  was  troubled  by  the  dread  of 
having  new  sorrows  to  experience  on  my  arrival.  My  mother 
was  then  very  old ;  her  life  had  been  passed  in  long  tribulations, 
and  in  complete  sacrifice  of  self.  The  numerous  moral  troubles 
which  she  had  gone  through  must  have  affected  her  state  of 
health.  Besides,  I  had  been  so  unfortunate  :  fate  seemed  to 
have  so  roughly  treated  all  my  affections,  that  I  could  not 
refrain  from  thinking  that  I  should  never  again  see  her  for 
whom  I  abandoned  my  much  loved  country.  The  day  for 
sailing  came ;  yet  it  was  not  without  a  heartfelt  grief  that  I 
tore  myself  away  from  my  friends,  and  bade  adieu  to  the 
Philippines. 

Here  ought  to  terminate  the  account  which  I  proposed : 
yet  I  cannot  refrain  from  dedicating  a  few  lines  to  my  return 
to  my  native  land. 


MY  TRAVELS  ON  MY  WAY  TO  FRANCE.         297 

On  board  various  vessels  I  passed  the  coasts  of  India,  the 
Persian  Gulf,  and  the  Red  Sea. 

After  having  often  admired  the  grand  works  of  nature,  I 
felt  a  strong  desire  to  see  the  gigantic  works  executed  by  the 
hand  of  man. 

I  went  to  Thebes,  and  there  visited  in  detail  its  palaces, 
its  tombs,  and  its  monolithes.  I  descended  the  Nile,  stopping 
at  every  place  which  contained  any  monuments  worthy  of  my 
curiosity.  I  ascended  one  of  the  Pyramids.  I  passed  several 
days  in  Cairo,  and  set  out  for  Alexandria,  where  I  embarked 
anew,  to  pass  over  the  small  space  of  sea  which  separated  me 
from  Europe. 

I  have  sometimes  wished  to  compare  the  grandest  of 
human  productions  with  the  works  of  the  Creator;  the  com 
parison  is  by  no  means  favourable  to  the  former,  for  all  those 
useless  ornaments  are  nothing  but  lasting  proofs  of  pride,  and 
of  the  fanaticism  of  a  few  men,  who  were  obeyed  by  a  people 
in  slavery.  I  also  saw  all  that  remained  of  the  traces  of 
destruction  committed  by  two  of  the  greatest  conquerors  of  the 
world :  the  first  was  but  a  haughty  despot,  causing  cohorts  of 
slaves  to  act  as  he  pleased,  and  carrying  the  sword  and  de 
struction  amongst  peaceful  people,  to  profane  their  tombs,  to 
follow  up  useless  conquests, — history  afterwards  shows  him 
dying  of  an  orgie  ;  and  the  other,  alas !  was  enchained  to  a 
rock. 

From  the  summit  of  one  of  the  Pyramids,  in  religious 
abstraction,  I  had  contemplated  the  majestic  Nile,  which 
glides  serpent-like  through  a  vast  plain,  bordered  by  the  Desert 
and  arid  mountains.  Looking,  then,  below  me,  I  could  with 
difficulty  descry  some  of  my  travelling  companions,  who  were 
gazing  at  the  Sphynx,  and  who  appeared  like  little  spots  on 


898  TWENTY   YEARS    IN    THE    PHILIPPINES. 

the  sand.  And  I  then  exclaimed  :  "  It  is  not  these  useless 
monuments  that  we  ought  to  admire,  but  rather  this  magnifi 
cent  liver,  which,  in  obedience  to  the  laws  of  all-powerful 
wisdom,  overflows  every  year,  at  a  fixed  period,  its  limits,  and 
spreads  itself,  like  a  vast  sea,  to  water  and  to  vivify  these  im 
mense  plains,  which  are  afterwards  covered  with  rich  harvests. 
If  this  immutable  and  beneficent  order  of  nature  did  not  en 
dure,  all  these  fertile  districts  would  be  but  a  desert  waste, 
where  no  living  creature  could  exist." 

These  reflections  took  their  origin,  without  doubt,  from  my 
having  spent  almost  all  my  life  amidst  those  grand  creations 
of  Nature,  from  which  man  continually  derives  sentiments  that 
elevate  him  to  the  Supreme  Being.  I  had  studied  that  Nature 
— in  all  her  details,  her  beneficence,  and  her  magnificence—too 
attentively  to  allow  the  productions  of  man's  genius  to  make 
upon  me  the  impression  which  I  thought  might  be  expected, 
when  I  first  formed  a  wish  to  see  the  monuments  of  Egypt ; 
and,  while  sailing  for  Europe,  I  already  anticipated  the  feeling, 
that  a  short  sojourn  in  the  midst  of  civilisation  would  cause 
me  to  regret  my  ancient  freedom,  my  mountains,  and  my  soli 
tudes  in  the  Philippine  Islands. 

On  arrival  at  Malta  I  was  for  eighteen  days  locked  up  in 
Fort  Manuel,  and  then  passed  the  quarantine.  I  there  re 
ceived  news  of  my  family.  My  mother  and  sisters  wrote  to 
me  that  they  were  in  the  enjoyment  of  excellent  health,  and 
were  awaiting  with  impatience  my  coming  to  them.  After  the 
quarantine  was  over,  I  stopped  nearly  a  week  in  the  city, 
while  waiting  for  a  steamer  that  was  going  to  France.  I 
embraced  the  opportunity  of  seeing  every  curiosity  in  the 
island.  I  then  resumed  my  voyage  to  my  native  land,  and 
the  following  week  I  recognised  the  arid  rocks  of  Pro- 


v^          «i 

I   AT   LAST   KEACH   FRANCE. 

.'j^r 

vence  and  France,  from  -which  I  had  been  absent  for  twen 

V\  o  J 
/ 

In  a  few  days  I  reached  Nantes,  where  for  some  time  I 
enjoyed,  in  every  respect,  all  the  happiness  which  one  feels 
when  with  those  beloved  beings  from  whom  one  had  been  long 
severed,  and  who  formed  the  last  living  ties  of  affection  for  an 
unhappy  being  who  had  been  severely  tried  by  a  capricious 
destiny.  But  the  want  of  excitement  in  which  I  lived  soon 
became  irksome ;  my  life  had  been  too  active,  so  that  the 
sudden  transition  could  not  fail  to  prove  injurious  to  my  health, 
and  the  idea  of  submitting  during  the  remainder  of  my  exist 
ence  to  a  life  sterile  and  monotonous  became  intolerable. 
Not  knowing  how  to  employ  myself,  I  resolved  to  travel 
through  Europe,  and  to  study  the  civilised  world,  which  was 
then  so  strange  to  me.  I  travelled  through  France,  England, 
Belgium,  Spain,  and  Italy,  and  returned  to  my  family,  without 
being  able  to  discover  anything  that  could  induce  me  to  forget 
my  Indians,  Jala-Jala,  and  my  solitary  excursions  in  the 
virgin  forests.  The  society  of  men  reared  in  extreme  civilisa 
tion  could  not  efface  from  my  memory  my  past  modest  life. 
Notwithstanding  all  my  efforts,  I  retained  in  my  heart  a  fund 
of  sadness,  which  it  was  not  possible  to  conceal.  My  kind- 
hearted  mother,  who  with  deep  regret  observed  my  repugnance 
to  establish  myself  in  any  part  of  the  country,  and  who  enter 
tained  fears,  perhaps  well-founded  ones,  that  I  should  yet 
endeavour  to  go  back  to  the  Philippines,  used  every  means  to 
prevent  me.  She  spoke  to  me  of  marriage ;  and  in  all  her 
letters  repeated  that  she  should  not  be  happy  until  I  agreed 
to  enter  into  the  ties  of  a  new  union  :  she  said  my  name  would 
otherwise  become  extinct,  and,  as  her  last  consolation,  she 
asked  me  to  allow  her  to  choose  a  companion  for  me. 


300  TWENT?  YEARS   IN   THE   PHILIPPINES. 

The  wish  to  satisfy  her,  and  also  the  remembrance  of 
Anna's  last  words  :  "  Return  to  thy  country,  and  marry  one  of 
thy  countrywomen,"  decided  my  resolution. 

I  soon  made  choice  of  one,  who  would  have  fully  rendered 
a  man  happy  who  had  not  too  frequently  before  him  the  re 
membrance  of  a  previous  union.  Nevertheless,  I  was  as  happy 
as  I  could  be.  My  new  wife  possessed  every  quality  necessary 
for  my  happiness.  By  her  I  became  father  of  two  children, 
and  I  began  to  bless  the  determination  which  my  mother  had 
contributed  so  much  to  make  me  adopt ;  but,  alas !  happiness 
was  never  for  me  lasting ;  the  cup  of  bitterness  was  not  yet 
exhausted,  and  I  had  still  to  shed  many  tears. 

In  the  cemetery  of  Vertoux,  a  modest  tomb  for  thee,  poor 
mother !  is  -erected,  between  that  of  a  husband  and  a  son ;  and 
soon  after  another  grave  was  opened  at  Neuilly.  In  profound 
affliction  I  had  the  following  lines  engraved  on  the  latter : 

"  Yeille,  du  haut  des  cieux,  sur  ta  tristc  famille  ; 
Conserve-moi  ton  fils  et  revis  dans  ta  fille."* 


*  "  From  Heaven's  height  look  down  and  see 
The  sorrows  of  thy  family ; 
Preserve  for  me  thy  only  boy, 
And  in  thy  daughter  give  me  joy." 


STATISTICS  OP  THE  PHILIPPINE  ISLANDS. 


The  Philippines  are  a  large  group  of  islands  in  the  North  Pacific 
Ocean,  and  were  discovered  by  Magellan  in  1521;  they  were  afterwards 
taken  possession  of  by  the  Spaniards,  in  the  reign  of  Philip  II,  from  whom 
they  take  their  name.  The  islands  are  said  to  be  eleven  hundred  in 
number,  but  some  hundreds  of  them  are  very  small,  and  all  are  nominally 
subject  to  the  Spanish  government  at  Manilla. 

In  order  to  give  the  reader  an  idea  of  their  riches,  and  the  vast  resources 
they  can  furnish  to  Spain,  I  shall  here  give  some  details  of  the  division 
of  the  country  into  provinces,  with  the  number  of  towns  contained  in  each, 
of  the  population,  and  of  the  various  branches  of  industry  exercised  by  the 
Indians,  and,  finally,  a  description  of  the  principal  agricultural  products. 

DIVISION  OF  ALL  THE  PHILIPPINES  INTO  PROVINCES  AND  MARKET- 
TOWN  DISTRICTS,  AND  THEIR  POPULATION,  ACCORDING  TO  THE 
CENSUS  TAKEN  IN  1833. 

Provinces.                     Nvmber  nf  Towns.  Population* 

Tondo          30         285,030 

Bulacan      19         187,735 

Panpanga 26         182,360 

Bataan       10         38,920 

Zambales 15         39,510 

Pangasinan            ...  31         215,635 

Ilocos  (South)        ...  23         206,085 

Ilocos  (North)        ...  14        190,160 

Islas  Batanes        ...  3         800 

Cagayan     34        107,600 

Nueva  Ecija         ...  15         23,285 

Laguna       33         135,810 

Batangas 13         196,695 

Cavite        10        83,010 

Carried  forward  1,892,635 


306 


STATISTICS    OF   THE 


Provinces.                     Number  of  Towns. 

Population, 

Brought  forward 

1,892,635 

Tayabas      

16         

77,315 

Camarinco  (North) 

11         

25,035 

Camarinco  (Soutli) 

27         

187,315 

Albai          

38         

139,595 

Zamboanga 

2         

10,000 

Misamis      

23         

35,180 

Caraga        

30         

32,510 

Leite           

31         

91,275 

Samar         

28         

92,730 

Zebou          

38 

203,555 

Isla  de  Negros 

23         

60,980 

llaila          

31         

232,055 

Antique       

11         

78,250 

°2 

115,440 

Calami  anes 

12        

20,730 

Mindoro      

8         

41,190 

3,345,790 

In  tnis  number — 3,345,790 — of  inhabitants,  which  constitute  all  the 
population  under  the  Spanish  Government,  are  comprised  from  25,000  to 
30,000  Chinese.  Exclusive  of  this  population  there  exist  unknown 
numbers  of  Indians,  who,  to  avoid  the  payment  of  taxes,  have  found  means 
to  escape  from  the  census ;  and  also  the  wild  savages  in  the  interior  of 
the  island  of  Luzon,  whose  number  there  is  no  means  of  knowing. 


MECHANICAL  AND  AGRICULTURAL  PRODUCTS. 

The  Philippines  yield  every  colonial  product  that  man  can  desire.  There 
are  abundant  crops  of  rice,  coffee,  sugar,  indigo,  tobacco,  cotton,  cacao, 
abaca,  or  vegetable  silk,  pepper,  gums,  cocoa-nuts,  dye-woods,  timber 
of  all  descriptions  for  furniture  and  for  buildings,  rattans  of  various  kinds, 
and  all  the  agreeable  fruits  of  the  tropics.  On  the  shores  are  found 
nacre,  or  mother  of  pearl,  magnificent  pearls,  birds' -nests,  shells  of  every 
description,  an  incredible  quantity  of  excellent  fish,  and  the  trepang,  or 


PHILIPPINE    ISLANDS  307 

balatt,  a  sea-worm,  or  animal  substance,  found  on  the  shores  of  the 
Philippine  Islands,  resembling  a  large  pudding.  The  Chinese  are  very 
fond  of  it,  and  mix  it  with  fowl  and  vegetables. 

The  inhabitants  practise  various  kinds  of  industry ;  they  weave  matting 
of  extraordinary  fineness  and  of  the  brightest  colours,  straw  hats,  cigar 
cases,  and  baskets ;  they  manufacture  cloth  and  tissues  of  every  sort 
from  cotton,  silk,  and  abaca ;  they,  from  filaments  taken  from  the  leaves 
of  the  etuana,  make  cambric  of  a  texture  much  finer  than  that  of  France ; 
and  they  also  manufacture  coarse  strong  cloth  for  sails,  &c.,  and  ropes  and 
cables  of  all  dimensions  ;  they  tan  and  dress  leather  and  skins  to  perfec 
tion  ;  they  manufacture  coarse  earthenware,  and  forge  and  polish  arms  of 
various  kinds ;  they  build  ships  of  heavy  tonnage,  and  also  light  and  neat 
boats ;  and  at  Manilla  they  frame  and  finish-off  beautiful  carriages ;  they 
are  also  very  clever  workers  in  gold,  silver,  and  copper ;  and  the  Indian 
women  are  specially  expert  in  needlework,  and  in  all  kinds  of  embroidery. 

I. 

OF  THE  SOIL  OF  THE  ISLAND  OF  LUZON,  AND  THE  SOURCES  OF  ITS 
FERTILITY. 

The  island  of  Luzon  is  the  largest  of  the  Philippines,  and  extends  from 
north  to  south  for  the  length  of  about  six  degrees.  It  is  divided  throughout 
its  whole  extent  by  a  chain  of  mountains,  which  in  general  owe  their 
formation  to  volcanic  eruptions.  Traces  are  found  throughout  of  the  great 
convulsions  produced  by  subterraneous  fires,  and  in  proof  of  this  theory 
I  shall  make  some  observations  which  demonstrate  it. 

In  the  middle  of  the  lake  of  Bonbon,  in  the  province  of  Batangas,  the 
volcano  of  Taal  is  always  in  combustion ;  and,  although  during  many  years 
there  has  been  no  eruption,  enormous  clouds  of  smoke  are  continually 
ascending  from  its  vast  crater.  From  this  mountain  to  that  of  Mainit 
(signifying  "hot"),  a  distance  of  about  five  or  six  leagues,  there  is  sub 
terraneous  communication,  for  this  latter  mountain  is  always  threatening 
great  eruptions,  and  at  its  summit  there  are  various  chinks,  occasionally  emit 
ting  a  thick  smoke,  and  sometimes  flames.  At  its  base,  in  the  part  bathed 
by  the  waters  of  the  lake  of  Bay,  which  is  distant  from  ten  to  twelve 
leagues  from  the  lake  of  Bonbon,  there  are  numbers  of  thermal  springs,  that 


308  STATISTICS   OF   THE 

burst  forth  at  the  temprature  of  boiling  water.  All  these  springs,  the 
waters  of  which  discharge  themselves  into  the  lake,  emit  a  great  quantity 
of  vapour,  so  that,  from  a  distance,  one  might  imagine  the  lake  to  be 
always  boiling. 

At  about  from  three  to  four  miles  in  the  lake  of  Bay  the  little  island 
of  Socolme  is  to  be  seen ;  it  is  formed  of  a  circular  cordon  of  land,  elevated 
above  the  water  from  twelve  to  fifteen  hundred  feet,  and  in  the  middle 
of  this  cordon  is  the  little  lake  of  the  same  name,  which  is  evidently 
nothing  but  an  extinct  crater,  into  which  the  water  has  penetrated. 

In  the  provinces  of  Laguna  and  Batangas  there  is  the  high  mountain 
called  Maijai,  one  of  the  loftiest  in  Luzon,  which  is  beyond  doubt  an 
ancient  crater ;  on  the  summit  a  little  lake  is  found,  the  depth  of  which 
cannot  be  measured.  At  some  period  the  lava  that  then  flowed  from  the 
summit  towards  the  base,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  town  of  Nacarlan, 
covered  up  immense  cavities,  which  are  now  recognisable  by  the  sonorous 
noise  of  the  ground  for  a  great  extent;  and  sometimes  it  happens  that, 
in  consequence  of  an  inundation  or  an  earthquake,  this  volcanic  crust 
is  in  some  places  broken,  and  exposes  to  the  view  enormous  caverns, 
which  the  Indians  call  "the  mouths  of  hell." 

Finally,  in  the  district  about  the  town  of  San  Pablo,  which  is  situated 
on  the  mountains,  are  found  great  numbers  of  .little  circular  lakes  and 
immense  heaps  of  rotten  stones,  basalt,  and  different  descriptions  of  lava, 
which  show  that  all  these  lakes  are  nothing  else  than  the  craters  of  old 
volcanoes.  Altogether  the  soil  to  the  southward,  in  the  province  of 
Albai,  is  completely  volcanic,  and  the  frequent  eruptions  of  the  volcano 
bearing  that  name  may,  as  the  natives  say,  be  attributed  to  the  same 
cause  as  the  earthquakes  so  often  felt  in  the  island  of  Luzon. 

Over  almost  the  whole  of  these  mountains,  where  fire  has  thus  played 
so  conspicuous  a  part,  there  is  a  great  depth  of  vegetable  earth,  and  they 
are  covered  with  a  most  splendid  vegetation.  Their  declivities  nourish 
immense  forests  and  fine  pastures  in  which  grow  gigantic  trees — palm 
trees,  rattans,  and  lianas  of  a  thousand  kinds,  or  gramineous  plants  of 
various  sorts,  particularly  the  wild  sugar  cane,  which  rises  to  the  height  of 
from  nine  to  twelve  feet  from  the  ground ;  in  their  interior  are  rich  mines 
of  copper,  gold,  iron,  and  coal. 

There  are  two  distinct  and  strongly  marked  seasons  in  the  island  of 


PHILIPPINE    ISLANDS.  809 

Luzon,  namely,  the  rainy  or  the  wintry  season,  and  the  dry  or  summer 
season.  For  six  months  of  the  year — that  is  from,  June  to  Decem 
ber — the  wind  blows  from  the  south-west  to  the  north-east,  and  then  the 
declivities  of  the  mountains  and  all  the  western  side  of  the  island  are  in  the 
season  of  the  rains ;  in  the  six  other  months,  the  wind  changes,  and  blows 
from  the  north-east  to  the  south-west,  when  all  the  eastern  parts  of  the 
island  have  the  season  of  winter. 

During  the  rainy  season,  the  incessant  fall  of  rain  on  the  mountains 
causes  the  rivers,  both  large  and  small,  to  overflow  and  to  become  torrents, 
that  rush  down  upon  the  plains,  covering  them  with  water,  and  depositing 
the  broken  earth  and  slirne  which  they  have  gathered  in  their  course. 

In  the  dry  season,  water  is  supplied  for  irrigation  from  reservoirs, 
which  are  carefully  filled  during  the  rains.  From  these  causes  it  follows 
that,  without  any  manuring,  and  with  scarcely  any  improvement  from 
human  industry,  the  soil  of  the  Philippines  is  as  fertile  as  any  in  the 
world;  so  that,  without  great  labour,  the  cultivator  has  most  abundant 
harvests. 

The  different  products — of  the  cultivation  of  which  I  shall  now  give  a 
description— are  rice,  wheat,  a  vast  variety  of  leguminous  vegetables, 
indigo,  tobacco,  vegetable  silk,  coffee,  cacao,  cotton,  pepper,  bamboos — 
which  grow  almost  without  any  culture — and,  lastly,  the  cocoa-nut  tree. 


IL 

RICE. 

There  are  more  than  thirty  kinds  of  rice  cultivated  in  the  Philippines, 
all  quite  distinct  in  taste,  in  form,  in  colour,  and  in  the  weight  of  the 
grain.  These  are  divided  into  two  classes — first,  the  mountain  rice ; 
and  second,  the  aquatic  rice.  They  are  cultivated  differently,  although 
the  mountain  rice  may  be  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  the  aquatic 
crop. 

Culture  of  Mountain  Rice. 

The  mountain  rice  is  cultivated  in  high  lands,  not  exposed  to  the  dan 
ger  of  inundation  during  the  rains.  The  following  are  the  names  of  the 


810  STATISTICS    OF   THE 

different  descriptions  : — Pinursegui,  Lanlan-Sanglay,  Quinarayon,  Pinu- 
rutung,  Quinamalig-Pinulut,  Mangasarag-Puti,  Binuriri,  Pinagocpoc, 
Quinandanpula,  Quinandanputi,  Mangusa,  Bolivon,  Binumero,  Quina- 
bibao,  Binoliti,  Quiriquiri,  Binulut-Cabayo,  Dinulang,  Macapilaypusa, 
Tinuma,  Mangoles. 

In  the  western  part  of  the  island  of  Luzon,  as  soon  as  the  first  rains  fall, 
towards  the  end  of  May  or  the  beginning  of  June,  the  cultivator  pre 
pares  the  ground,  by  giving  it  two  ploughings  and  two  harrowings.  The 
plough  represented  by  Fig.  1,  p.  334,  is  the  one  employed  for  this  purpose. 
The  harrow  is  triangular,  and  like  the  one  used  in  France. 

The  lands  being  well  prepared  and  well  tilled,  the  rice  is  sown  broad 
cast,  and,  after  about  a  month,  it  is  well  hoed  and  weeded,  which  is  usually 
sufficient  for  the  removal  of  all  the  noxious  weeds  that  have  sprung  up 
among  the  plants. 

If  the  crop  be  of  the  kind  called  Pinurscgui,  which  is  one  of  the 
earliest,  the  rice  may  be  gathered  in  about  three  months  or  three  months 
and  a-half  after  it  is  sown ;  if  it  be  one  of  the  other  kinds,  it  is  necessary, 
in  order  that  the  grain  should  come  to  full  maturity,  to  wait  for  at  least 
five  months,  after  which  the  rice  is  cut  down  with  a  hook  (see  Fig.  3, 
p.  335),  put  in  small  sheaves,  of  which  large  cocks  are  made,  to  wait  for 
several  fine  days,  in  order  to  separate  the  grain  from  the  straw.  This 
operation  is  performed  by  means  of  buffaloes,  which  are  kept  moving 
round  in  a  large  area,  or  thrashing-floor,  on  which  the  rice  is  spread ;  or 
else  on  bamboo  trellises,  raised  perhaps  ten  feet  from  the  ground,  on 
which  an  Indian  tramples  with  his  feet  over  the  rice  sheaves  as  they 
are  handed  up  to  him,  and  the  grain  falls  through  the  interstices  of  the 
trellis  work. 

Mountain  rice  is  sometimes  sown  without  any  ploughing. 

Culture  of  Rice  for  Clear  ing- Grounds. 

After  the  trees  or  brushwood  which  had  covered  the  land  are  cut  down, 
they  are  burned,  and  then  rice  is  sown,  by  making,  with  a  stick  or  dibble, 
a  hole,  into  which  are  thrown  three  or  four  Drains  of  rice  ;  or  perhaps  the 
rice  is  sown  broadcast,  and  then,  for  about  a  month,  a  herd  of  buffaloes  is 
kept  on  the  ground,  so  that  they,  by  trampling,  sink  the  seed  into  the 
earth.  In  this  kind  of  tillage,  from  the  abundance  of  grass  and  weeds, 


PHILIPPINE   ISLANDS.  811 

several  hoeings  and  weedings  become  necessary  ;  but  the  labour  is  amply 
repaid  by  an  abundant  crop,  which  generally  yields  a  hundred-fold  and 
upwards. 

In  the  small  fields  the  ears  are  cut  singly,  in  order  afterwards  to  dry 
them  in  the  sun.  This  mode  of  gathering  the  crop  is  troublesome  and 
tedious,  but  it  has  this  advantage  over  the  process  of  collecting  in  heaps, 
that  a  great  deal  of  the  grain  is  saved  from  the  voracious  birds. 

All  the  other  kinds  of  mountain  rice  are  sown  in  the  same  manner  as 
that  called  Pinursegui,  but  this  last  has  the  advantage  of  being  fit  for  har 
vesting  in  twelve  or  fourteen  weeks,  while  the  others  require  twenty  weeks. 

Culture  of  Aquatic  Rice. 

There  are  ten  kinds  of  aquatic  rice  : — Macabunutdiln,  Macon,  Macan, 
Soulucay,  Macon-Sulug,  Macon-Muriti,  Macon-Susoy,  Macay-Bucave, 
Malaquit-Puti,  and  Malaquit-Pula. 

They  are  all  cultivated  in  a  similar  manner  in  China  and  Lombardy. 

The  two  last  kinds,  Malaquit-Puti  and  Malaquit-Pula,  do  not  serve  for 
every-day  food  ;  the  one  grain  is  a  dead  white,  while  the  other  is  per 
vaded  by  a  fine  violet  colour.  They  are  both  used  in  general  for  delica 
cies,  and  to  make  a  kind  of  paste,  a  substitute  for  starch. 

All  these  kinds  of  rice  are  first  raised  in  seed-beds,  from  which  they 
are  transplanted  into  lands  properly  prepared  for  them.  For  a  superficies 
of  40,000  yards  it  takes  about  750  Ibs.  of  seed. 

Seed-Beds. 

When  the  first  rains  fall  in  June,  the  ground  is  prepared  for  the  seed. 
It  is  first  covered  with  from  six  to  eight  inches  of  water,  and  then  it  is 
well  ploughed,  and  the  comb-harrow  is  passed  oyer  it  (see  Fig.  4,  p.  335) 
until  it  is  reduced  into  liquid  mud  ;  it  is  then  left  to  let  the  water  drain  off. 
The  seed  is  then  cast  over  it ;  but,  previous  to  being  sown,  the  seed  is  gene 
rally  steeped  in  water  for  twenty-four  hours,  in  order  to  promote  its  vegeta 
tion.  When  the  ground  is  entirely  covered  with  seed,  a  board  of  about  a 
yard  and  arhalf  or  two  yards  in  breadth  is  passed  over  the  whole  surface, 
for  the  purpose  of  sinking  the  grains  in  the  mud,  and  of  covering  them. 

For  five  or  six  days  it  is  not  useful  to  irrigate  them ;  but  if,  when 


312  STATISTICS   OF   THE 

the  plants  have  risen  some  inches  above  ground,  the  drought  is  verj 
great,  it  will  be  necessary  to  supply  them  with  water,  taking  always  great 
care  never  to  cover  the  young  leaves,  for  under  water  they  would  all 
perish. 

Transplanting. 

Porty  or  forty-five  days  after  the  seed  has  been  put  into  the  earth,  the 
rice  plants  are  fit  to  be  transplanted;  the  land  in  which  they  are  to 
be  fixed  is  divided  into  large  squares,  and  surrounded  by  little  raised  paths, 
which  serve  to  confine  the  water  with  which  it  must  be  completely  covered  ; 
it  is  then  again  ploughed,  and,  as  has  been  done  for  the  seed  sowing,  by 
means  of  the  comb-harrow  it  is  reduced  into  a  state  of  liquid  mud,  and  on 
the  following  day  the  water  is  let  off,  and  the  plants  are  got  ready  to  be 
placed  in  it. 

It  is  usual  to  have  men  to  take  up  the  plants,  and  women  to  fix  them  in 
the  earth.  Two  men  are  enough  for  this  work ;  one  of  them  pulls  the 
plants,  and  the  other  removes  them  to  the  planting-ground,  which  Is  never 
far  off,  and  distributes  them  to  the  women  planting  there.  The  man  who 
is  occupied  with  pulling  the  plants  has  before  him  a  little  table,  fixed  in 
the  earth  by  a  stake,  and  a  large  quantity  of  small  bamboo  strings,  which 
he  carries  fastened  to  his  waist,  as  gardeners  in  France  carry  rushes  when 
they  are  pruning  trees.  He  pulls  up  the  plants  without  much  precaution, 
and,  laying  them  on  the  table,  cuts  off  the  long  roots  and  the  leaves,  and 
makes  them  into  little  bundles  of  the  thickness  of  his  arm,  and  lays  them 
in  a  kind  of  sliding  car,  drawn  by  buffaloes,  which  the  other  Indian  leads 
to  the  planting-ground,  and  throws  the  bundles  about  in  all  directions  on 
the  prepared  land,  only  separating  them  so  that  the  women  planters  may 
take  them  up  by  stretching  out  their  arms,  without  having  to  quit  the 
lines  that  they  are  following  in  the  planting. 

All  the  women  planting  are  up  to  the  calf  of  the  leg  in  the  mud ; 
they  follow  each  one  a  line,  and,  moving  backwards,  take  up  the  little 
bundles  which  are  thrown  behind  them,  undo  the  tying,  separate  the 
plants  from  each  other,  and  then,  with  their  thumbs,  stick  the  plants,  one 
by  one,  into  the  mud,  at  a  distance  of  from  four  to  six  inches  from 
each  other.  They  are  so  used  to  this  practice  of  planting  as  to  do  it  with 
the  greatest  rapidity,  and  with  such  perfectly  regularity  that  one  would 


PHILIPPINE    ISLANDS.  313 

be  almost  tempted  to  believe  that  they  hud  a  measure  to  guide  them  in 
their  exact  observance  of  the  distances. 

When  the  planting  is  finished,  and  although  the  sun  is  burning  hot,  the 
rice  field  is  not  watered  for  eight  or  ten  days,  but  as  soon  as  the  plants 
shoot  up  their  green  leaves,  if  there  have  not  any  rains  fallen,  they  are 
irrigated,  and  the  land  is  covered  with  two  or  three  inches  of  water,  and, 
in  proportion  to  the  growth  of  the  plants,  the  water  is  increased. 

These  lands  are  seldom  weeded,  but  careful  cultivators  do  not  neglect 
every  opportunity  of  removing  the  large  noxious  weeds  which  might 
damage  the  rice. 

When  the  rice  has  come  to  its  full  height — that  is,  from  forty  to  fifty 
inches  there  is  no  longer  any  necessity  for  irrigation ;  on  the  contrary,  it 
would  be  rather  injurious  at  the  time  when  the  plant  is  in  flower. 

Sometimes,  when  the  land  is  exceedingly  fertile,  the  plants  grow  to  the 
height  of  European  wheat,  and  then  they  would  have  become  all  stalk ; 
to  prevent  this,  and  to  force  them  to  produce  grain  instead  of  straw,  an 
Indian  takes  a  long  pole  and,  stretching  it  over  the,  plants,  stamps  on  the 
middle  of  it,  and  thereby  lays  all  the  plants  level  on  the  earth,  so  that 
they  seem  as  if  flattened  by  violent  winds. 

Four  months  after  the  transplanting— that  is,  about  five  months  and 
a-half  after  the  sowing — the  rice  is  fully  ripe  and  fit  for  being  harvested.  It 
is  then  cut  with  the  sickle,  by  both  men  and  women,  and  in  proportion  as 
the  bundles  of  sheaves  are  large  and  many,  they  are  gathered  to  a  high 
spot,  and  made  into  cocks  or  ricks,  to  wait  for  the  general  carrying  home. 

In  some  parts  of  the  island  of  Luzon  the  first  crop  of  rice  is  followed 
by  a  second  planting  of  an  early  or  precocious  kind — that  is,  the  mountain 
rice,  called  Pinursegui ;  but  then  the  sowing  of  the  seed  is  effected  before 
hand,  and  in  a  quite  different  manner  from  that  of  which  I  have  given  a 
description. 

Three  weeks  or  a  month  previous  to  gathering  the  first  crop  off  the 
ground,  the  Indians  place  on  the  ponds  and  rivers  little  bamboo  rafts, 
which  they  cover  over  with  a  deep  layer  of  straw,  and  on  the  straw  they 
make  seed-beds ;  the  grain  sprouts,  and  the  roots  weave  themselves  in 
through  the  straw,  and  so  reach  the  surface  of  the  water,  in  order  thence 
to  draw  nourishment.  When  the  first  crop  is  taken  off  the  ground 
and  the  field  has  received  a  ploughing,  and  has  been  prepared  for  the 


814  STATISTICS    OF   THE 

second  planting,  the  seedlings  are  taken  off  the  rafts  by  rolling  up  the 
straw — in  the  same  manner  as  a  mat  is  rolled  up— and  carried  to  the  place 
then  read}7,  and  there  the  young  plants  are  pulled,  one  by  one,  out  of  the 
straw,  their  long  roots  and  leaves  are  cut  off,  and  they  are  stuck  in  the 
earth.  By  this  means  in  less  than  three  months  a  second  crop  is  obtained, 
which  is  by  no  means  as  abundant,  it  is  true,  as  the  first  one,  but  which, 
notwithstanding,  amply  indemnifies  the  tiller  for  his  toil. 

The  Indian  native  of  the  Philippines  has  studied  every  way  of  pro 
curing  his  natural  food,  and  he  makes  use  of  every  means  that  the  fertile 
soil  of  his  country  offers,  to  gain  that  object.  For  that  purpose  he  employs 
another  mode  to  obtain,  almost  without  labour,  abundant  crops. 

There  is  a  kind  of  rice  which  is  essentially  an  aquatic  plant — the 
Macon-Sulug — and  it  yields  abundantly,  although  continually  bathed  by 
water.  In  some  parts  of  the  island  there  are  marshes  and  lakes  of  very 
little  depth,  and  the  Indians  prepare  for  them  seed-beds  of  this  kind  of 
rice,  which  has  the  property  of  shooting  forth  very  long  leaves.  These 
seed-beds  are  prepared  in  the  same  manner  as  those  of  the  other  aquatic 
rice,  and  after  six  weeks'  growth  the  plants  are  pulled  up,  and  their  roots 
shortened,  but  care  is  taken  to  preserve  the  leaves  entire  in  all  their  length. 
The  plants  are  then  put  on  board  the  lightest  boats,  which  are  rowed  by 
Indians  into  the  shallow  parts  of  the  lake,  where  the  men's  arms  can 
reach  the  bottom ;  the  plants  are  there  stuck  in  the  mud,  and  the  leaves 
are  allowed  to  swim  on  the  surface.  The  plants  soon  become  strong,  and 
shoot  up  stalks — as  if  they  were  growing  on  earth — at  the  surface  of 
the  water.  If  by  any  accident  the  water  is  increased  in  the  lake,  the  rice 
stalks  shoot  up  in  proportion  to  that  increase,  so  that  it  can  swim 
over  the  water,  for  it  would  perish  where  it  wholly  submerged. 

Four  months  after  the  transplanting,  the  crop  is  gathered  in  by  the 
little  boats,  in  which  the  Indians  go  from  one  part  of  the  lake  to  another 
where  any  rice  has  been  planted. 

All  these  kinds  of  aquatic  rice  yield  most  abundantly ;  the  poorest  crop 
may  be  estimated  at  twenty-five,  and  the  good  at  from  sixty  to  eighty-fold. 
There  is,  however,  one  scourge,  which  every  seven  or  eight  years,  deprives  the 
cultivator  of  the  benefit  of  his  labours  and  toils — I  mean  the  locusts,  which 
coming  suddenly,  like  a  dark  cloud,  alight  on  a  field  covered  with  luxuriant 
vegetation,  and  then  suddenly  ruin  it,  even  to  the  very  roots.  Great  droughts 


PHILIPPINE    ISLANDS.  3J5 

ako  destroy  the  rice  fields  of  the  mountains  ;  and  it  is  for  these  reasons 
that  the  Indian  says  with  such  sincerity  :  "  Give  us  sunshine,  give  us 
water,  and  keep  away  the  locusts,  then  our  crops  are  safe." 

IIL 
INDIGO. 

Culture  and  Crops. 

In  various  parts  of  the  Philippines,  and  especially  at  Luzon,  indigo  is 
cultivated  with  success,  yet  this  cultivation  is  that  which  runs  most  risks. 
Bad  weather  for  a  few  days,  and  strong  gales,  often  ruin  all  the  crop. 
Sometimes,  also,  myriads  of  caterpillars  devour  all  the  leaves  in  a  few 
hours,  and  if  any  are  left  they  are  scarcely  sufficient  to  defray  the  expense 
of  the  manufacturing  process.  But,  if  the  season  be  favourable,  it  no  acci 
dents  take  place,  and  if  that  process  is  carried  on  with  judgment,  the  high 
price  of  the  indigo  always  indemnifies  the  grower. 

The  cultivation  begins  immediately  after  the  cold  season,  and  before  the 
great  heats,  and  when  there  is  no  apprehension  of  the  heavy  rains  :  the 
land  is  got  ready  by  two  or  three  ploughings  and  harrowings,  and  when  it 
is  sufficiently  tilled  the  seed  is  sown  broad-cast.  The  plant  shows  itself 
over  ground  on  the  third  or  fourth  day,  and  continues  to  shoot  up  while 
it  finds  any  moisture,  but  if  there  be  a  drought  it  remains  stationary 
during  the  time  of  its  duration.  As  soon  as  the  first  rains  fall,  at  the  com 
mencement  of  the  south-west  monsoon,  on  this  side  of  the  island,  its  growth 
is  rapid  and  strong.  But  with  it  grow  also  the  bad  weeds,  which  it  is 
necessary  to  eradicate  by  two  or  three  careful  hoeings. 

Two  months  and  a-half  after  the  first  rains  the  plants  have  acquired 
their  full  size,  and  they  are  known  to  be  fit  for  pulling  when  the  leaves  are 
thick,  covered  with  a  whitish  velvety  down,  and  are  easily  broken  by  the 
slightest  pressure.  They  ore  usually  thoroughly  mature  at  the  end  of 
July — that  is,  in  the  middle  of  the  rainy  season  ;  but  then,  every  preparation 
is  made  for  their  being  properly  handled,  so  that  there  will  not  be  any 
blunder  in  the  matter,  and  that  the  plants  may  not  have  time  to  cast  off 
any  portion  of  their  leaves,  which  would  occur  if  there  was  any  delay. 

The  preparations,  which  are  more  or  less  considerable  according  to 


810  STATISTICS    OF    THE 

the  importance  of  the  crop,  consist  in  several  batteries.  Each  of  these 
batteries  is  composed  of  two  large  vats,  from  three  yards  to  nearly 
three  yards  and  a  half  in  diameter,  and  three  yards  in  depth,  one 
of  which  is  designed  for  the  fermentation  process,  and  the  other  for  the 
beating  or  churning  one.  This  last  vat  is  a  little  smaller  than  the  former. 
They  are  both  placed  on  the  brow  of  a  rivulet,  or  of  a  river,  in  order  to 
have  the  facility  of  obtaining  water.  The  vat  for  fermentation  ought  to  be 
placed  on  a  spot  somewhat  higher  than  the  other,  so  that,  by  means  of 
cocks  or  spiggots,  which  are  placed  longitudinally,  all  the  water  contained 
in  that  vat  may  be  easily  removed  into  the  churning  one.  There  are  also 
one  or  two  buckets,  placed  at  one  end  of  long  poles,  with  weights  at  the 
other  end,  which  poles  are  placed  across  a  wooden  fork  of  two  strong 
pieces,  and  raised  some  yards  above  the  fermentation  vat.  This  appa 
ratus  resembles  very  much  in  construction  those  which  are  to  be  seen  along 
the  banks  of  the  Nile,  and  in  Spain,  and  other  parts  of  the  south  of  Europe. 
Two  long  bamboos,  having  fastened  at  one  end  a  small  board,  from  five  to 
six  inches  in  length,  and  from  two  to  three  inches  in  breadth,  are  what 
may  be  called  the  beating  or  churning  dashes.  Lastly,  there  is  a  small 
vat  under  a  shed,  a  little  distance  from  the  batteries,  where  there  are 
articles  for  straining,  made  of  coarse  cotton  cloth,  and  a  small  press  for 
squeezing  those  articles,  and  large  hurdles  for  drying  the  indigo. 

Every  arrangement  being  thus  made,  the  gathering-in  is  begun.  On 
the  first  day,  enough  plants  are  cut  down  to  allow  the  cutters  to  be  always 
one  day  in  advance  of  the  vats.  The  plant  is  cut  level  to  the  earth  with  a 
kind  of  cutlass,  which  the  Indian  wears  by  his  side,  and  is  called  bolo.  If 
the  after-season  continues  favourable,  the  plant  sprouts  afresh,  and  some 
times  produces  two  or  three  crops  in  the  same  year. 

Each  battery  is  managed  by  two  Indians,  one  fills  the  vat  with  the 
plants,  and  the  other  supplies  the  vat  with  water,  and  the  two  together 
beat  or  churn  the  produce.  At  a  very  early  hour  in  the  morning  the 
fermentation  vat  is  filled  to  the  brim  with  plants,  and  they  are  kept  down 
by  pieces  of  wood,  which  are  fastened  in  ledges  or  grooves  on  the  inside  of 
the  vat  :  without  this  precaution  the  vat  would  overflow.  When  it  is  full  of 
plants  and  water,  fermentation  takes  place  in  from  twenty  to  twenty-four 
hours,  according  to  the  heat  of  the  temperature.  When  the  fermentation 
has  reached  its  greatest  height,  which  is  generally  the  next  morning,  the 


PHIUPP1NE    ISLANDS.  8H 

plants  are  removed  out  of  the  vat,  and  care  is  taken  that  no  water  is  re 
moved  with  them,  for  which  purpose  they  are  well  shaken.  When  nothing 
remains  hut  the  liquor,  which  is  then  of  an  emerald  colour,  the  Indian  puts 
a  certain  quantity  of  quick  lime  in  a  bucket  of  water,  which  he  very  care 
fully  pours  it  into  the  fermentation  vat.  The  Indian  then  takes  one  of 
the  heating  or  churning  dashes,  and  plunges  to  it  the  bottom  of  the 
vat,  where  he  moves  it  about,  so  that  the  lime  is  circulated  throughout 
the  whole.  Ho  soon  knows  if  he  has  put  enough  by  the  colour,  which 
suddenly  changes  its  shade;  from  an  emerald  green  it  becomes  a  deep 
green,  and  the  liquor  appears  to  contain  a  number  of  little  clots  or 
globules,  which  are  nothing  but  the  indigo  in  a  state  of  solution.  The 
quantity  of  lime  necessary  for  the  operation  cannot  be  calculated,  but  a 
man  of  experience  can  give  a  good  guess.  Upon  this  quantity  entirely 
depends  the  quality  of  the  product  which  is  wished  for,  as  well  as  the 
shade  of  colour  required. 

After  the  lime  has  been  mixed  with  the  liquor  it  is  left  at  rest  for  some 
minutes,  during  which  all  the  particles  not  belonging  to  the  indigo  sink 
to  the  bottom  of  the  vat,  but  the  indigo  remains  suspended  in  the  water. 
After  a  few  minutes  all  the  cocks  and  spiggots,  over  one  another  on 
the  side  of  the  vat,  are  gradually  opened,  and  the  liquor  flows  into  the 
beating  or  churning  vat. 

The  fermentation  vat  is  then  cleared  of  the  deposit  from  the  lime,  and 
every  other  thing  remaining  at  the  bottom,  and  is  immediately  filled 
with  fresh  plants  for  a  new  fermentation. 

During  the  afternoon  the  beating  or  churning  takes  place.  The  two 
Indians  take  their  dashes,  and  with  all  their  force  stir  the  liquor  up  from 
the  bottom  to  the  top,  in  order  that  the  matter  which  forms  the  indigo 
may  come  into  contact  with  the  air,  which  renders  it  insoluble  in  the  water. 
When  the  whole  has  acquired  a  fine  blue  colour  the  process  is  finished. 
Three  or  four  hours  afterwards,  all  the  indigo  contained  in  the  liquor  de 
posits  itself  at  the  bottom  of  the  vat,  and  then  the  cocks  and  spiggots,  one 
above  the  other,  are  opened,  to  let  the  water  flow  off,  and  which  does  not 
then  contain  any  colouring  matter  whatever. 

Each  of  these  operations  produces,  on  an  average,  about  sixteen  pounds 
of  indigo.  Every  six  days,  when  from  two  hundred  and  fifty  to  three  hun 
dred  pounds  are  collected,  they  are  taken  out  of  the  vat,  and  removed  to  a 

0 


318  STATISTICS    OF   THE 

much  smaller  vat,  j laced  near  the  drainers.  The  product  is  left  for  some 
time,  and  all  the  water  is  drawn  off  by  a  syphon.  At  length,  when  there 
is  no  more  to  he  drawn  off,  the  indigo  appears  to  be  a  sort  of  mud,  it  is 
put  into  the  drainers,  where  it  finishes  the  dripping.  It  is  then  put 
into  the  press,  and  from  thence  it  is  taken  out  in  a  state  resembling  a 
coarse  cake,  and  is  divided  by  a  brass  wire  into  small  squares,  which  are 
placed  in  the  drying  places.  A  month's  time  is  often  required  for  it  to  become 
thoroughly  dry,  but  this  depends  on  the  state  of  the  atmosphere.  When  the 
indigo  is  perfectly  dry  it  is  put  into  cases,  and  sent  to  the  market  for  sale. 
This  mode  of  making  indigo  is  practised  throughout  the  Philippines. 
Nevertheless,  some  of  the  great  growers  of  the  plant  have  adopted  a  change 
in  a  part  of  the  process,  of  which  1  was  the  introducer,  and  which  has 
diminished  very  considerably  the  expense  of  the  workmanship.  This 
alteration  consists  in  substituting  for  the  fermentation  Tats  a  large  bason, 
built  of  mason-work,  and  so  arranged  as  to  receive  naturally  the  water 
required  for  its  use.  In  the  course  of  an  hour,  from  a  distance  of  from  fifty 
to  sixty  yards,  on  a  flat  spot  below  the  level  of  this  bason,  the  number  of 
rats  necessary  for  receiving  all  its  contents  are  filled.  This  bason,  of 
which  the  brink  is  on  a  level  with  the  ground,  facilitates  the  process 
very  much,  and  makes  a  great  saving  in  the  working-men  ;  for  first,  it  can 
be  filled  with  water  without  that  water  being  drawn  by  the  Indians,  and 
the  labour  is  avoided  of  taking  the  plants  up  a  height  of  from  four  to  five 
yards.  The  Indian  who  is  carrying  the  plants  to  the  fermentation  vat 
comes  with  a  little  car,  without  wheels,  to  the  brink  of  the  reservoir,  and 
then,  without  any  difficulty,  discharges  his  load  into  the  reservoir.  The 
vats  for  beating  or  churning  are  placed  fifty  or  sixty  yards  off  on  the 
same  line.  The  first  communicates  with  the  reservoir  by  bamboos,  split 
in  two,  and  forming  a  kind  of  channel,  and  each  vat  communicates  with 
the  others  by  the  same  means.  The  liquor  passes  from  the  reservoir 
to  the  first  vat,  and  during  its  passage  comes  into  contact  with  the 
air,  and  when  the  first  vat  is  filled  the  surplusage  is  sent  on  to  the  others, 
and  so  on,  to  the  last  of  all.  All  this  movement  of  the  liquor  serves  a 
real  beating,  and  saves  two-thirds  of  the  workmen  necessary  for  the 
fermentation. 


PHILIPPINE    ISLANDS  319 

IV. 

TOBACCO. 

Next  to  the  cultivation  of  rice  that  of  tobacco  is,  in  a  pecuniary  point 
of  view,  the  most  important,  although  all  the  product  is  obliged  to  ba 
given  up  to  the  monopolising  government  which  is  the  sole  purchaser,  and 
which,  in  its  great  establishment  at  Binondoc,  employs  continually  from 
15,000  to  20,000  workmen  and  workwomen  in  manufacturing  cigars  for 
the  consumption  of  the  country  and  for  exportation.  They  arc  sent  all 
over  India,  where  they  are  as  much  prized  as  are  the  Havanna  cigars 
in  Europe. 

In  the  island  of  Luzon,  the  greatest  quantity  of  tobacco  is  cultivated  in 
the  provinces  of  Nueva  Ecija  and  Cagavan.  The  mode  of  cultivation  does 
not  differ  in  any  great  respect  from  that  followed  in  other  parts  of  the 
world.  It  consists  in  making  great  seed-beds,  from  which  the  plants  are 
removed  out  into  ground  that  is  well  tilled  by  several  ploughings  and 
harrowings.  The  young  plants  are  set  at  intervals  of  a  yard,  in  regular 
lines,  which  are  separated  by  a  distance  of  a  yard  and  a  half  from  each 
other. 

During  the  first  two  months  after  the  trasplanting  it  is  indispensably 
necessary  to  give  four  ploughings  to  the  ground  between  the  rows  of  the 
plants,  and,  every  fifteen  days  to  handpick,  or  even  better,  to  root  out 
with  the  mattock,  all  the  weeds  which  cannot  be  touched  by  the  plough. 

These  four  ploughings  ought  to  be  done  in  such  a  manner  as  to  leave 
alternately  a  furrow  in  the  middle  of  each  line,  and  on  the  sides,  and  con 
sequently,  at  the  last  ploughing,  the  earth  covers  the  plants  up  to  their 
first  leaves,  and  there  remains  a  trench  in  the  middle  of  the  rows  for 
letting  off  the  water.  As  soon  as  each  plant  has  gained  a  proper  height, 
its  head  is  lopped  off  to  force  the  sap  to  turn  into  the  leaves,  and,  in  a 
few  weeks  afterwards,  it  is  fit  for  being  gathered. 

Mode  of  Gathering  in  the  Crop. 

This  crop  consits  in  tearing  off  all  the  leaves  from  the  trunk,  and  in 
separating  them  into  three  classes,  according  to  their  size,  and  afterwards  in 
making  them  into  bunches  of  fifty  or  a  hundred,  and  in  passing  through 


320  STATISTICS    OF   THE 

them,  near  the  foot,  a  little  hamboo  cane,  as  if  it  was  a  skewer,  by  which 
the  bunches  are  afterwards  hung  up  to  dry  in  vast  sheds,  into  which  the 
sun's  rays  cannot  enter,  but  in  which  the  air  circulates  freely  ;  they  arc 
left  to  hang  there  until  they  become  quite  dry,  and  for  this,  a  greater  or 
less  time  is  required,  according  to  the  state  of  the  weather.  When  the  dry 
ing  is  effected  the  leaves  are  placed,  according  to  their  quality,  in  bales 
of  twenty-five  pounds,  and  in  that  state  they  are  handed  over  to  the  ad 
ministration  of  the  monopoly. 

V. 

ABACA,  OR  VEGETABLE  SILK. 

The  Abaca  is  exclusively  cultivated  on  the  declivities  of  the  mountains ; 
it  grows  exceedingly  well  in  a  volcanic  soil,  and  there  shoots  up  in  every 
direction. 

The  Abaca  produces  an  abundance  of  seed,  but  the  seed  is  not  used  for 
reproduction,  as  its  growth  would  require  a  long  time  before  the  plant 
could  come  to  maturity  fit  for  a  crop.  At  the  foot  of  the  old  stock  the 
shoots  are  found,  and  are  divided  into  as  many  seedlings  as  there  are 
syptoms  of  germination,  and  they  are  set  in  the  earth  in  such  a  manner 
as  soon  to  form  new  plants. 

The  ground  for  the  plantation  is  got  ready  during  the  dry  season,  the 
brushwood  and  the  young  trees  are  cut  down,  some  of  the  lofty  trees  only 
are  preserved  to  afford  shade  to  the  plantation  during  the  first  two  years. 
When  the  soil  is  well  cleared,  lines  are  traced  transversely  to  the  mountain, 
and  spaced  from  three  yards,  to  three  yards  and  a-half,  the  one  from  the 
other,  and  then  holes  of  from  ten  to  fifteen  centimetres,  and  of  about  the 
same  diameter,  are  opened  in  those  lines,  and,  when  the  first  rains  begin,  a 
sprout  is  laid  in  the  hole,  and  covered  up  with  earth. 

During  the  two  first  years  frequent  weedings  are  required  to  remove 
all  the  brushwood  that  grows  around  the  young  plants,  and  at  different 
times  during  the  rainy  season,  to  stir  up  the  earth  at  their  roots  with  a 
mattock. 

The  second  year,  the  long  broad  leaves  rising  up  from  four  to  five  yards, 
will  keep  down  all  weeds  and  brushwood. 

Crops. 
The  plants  in  about  threr  years  produce  from  twelve  to  fifteen  shoots 


PHILIPPINE   ISLANDS.  321 

eacli.  and  yield  some  fruit,  they  should  then  he  cut  down.  The  leaves 
are  now  severed  from  the  trunks,  and  taken  to  the  place  of  manipula 
tion,  which  is  at  some  little  distance  from  the  plantation,  where  women 
divide  them  into  thin  strips,  of  from  three  to  four  inches  in  length,  and 
separate  the  outward  from  the  interior  layers.  The  outer  layers  furnish  the 
ahaca  used  in  making  ropes,  and  the  inner  ones,  being  of  finer  filaments, 
serve  for  weaving ;  the  strips  are  exposed  for  some  hours  to  the  sun,  to 
render  them  more  flexible,  and  then  an  Indian  places  before  him  a  small 
stool,  on  which,  by  the  pressure  of  his  foot,  he  can  force  down  an  iron 
blade ;  he  then  places  one  of  the  strips  on  the  stool,  presses  with  the  sole 
of  his  foot  on  the  iron  blade,  which  lies  on  the  strip,  and  then,  with  all 
his  strength,  draws  the  strip  to  him,  and  by  this  movement  and  the 
pressure  the  filaments  are  cleaned  from  the  parenchyme,  or  soft  matter 
grown  with  them,  and  come  out  quite  white,  after  which  it  is  enough  to 
expose  them  for  some  hours  to  the  sun,  and  they  are  fit  for  sale. 

Every  year,  during  the  dry  season,  the  grower  has  a  fresh  crop  ;  for  a 
plantation  properly  arranged,  in  a  suitable  spot,  yields  indefimitely. 

VI. 
COFFEE. 

The  cultivation  of  this  shrub  is  carried  on  in  the  same  way  as  im 
other  colonies ;  it  consists  in  making  large  seed-beds  in  places  protected 
from  the  sun,  either  naturally  by  trees,  or  artificially  by  little  straw 
huts. 

When  the  coffee  plants  reach  a  height  of  from  twelre  to  eighteen  inches 
they  are  transplanted  in  land  prepared  for  that  purpose,  which  is  ubtuilljf 
selected  in  large  woods  exposed  to  the  rising  sun,  and  on  a  slope,  where 
care  has  previously  been  taken  to  eradicate  all  the  brushwood  and  small 
trees,  and  to  preserve  those  only  whose  shade  may  be  useful ;  and  then  in 
rows,  about  three  yards  distant  from  each,  holes  are  opened  at  every 
two  yards,  and  the  young  plants  are  put  into  them,  and  the  roots  are 
covered  up  with  well-tilled  earth. 

During  the  first  years  it  is  requisite  with  the  mattock  to  destroy  all 
the  weeds,  but  when  the  coffee  trees  are  three  years  old,  and  begin  to  bear, 
it  is  enough  to  give  them  every  year  a  good  weeding,  after  the  crop  ia 


322  STATISTICS    OF   THE 

taken  away  :  they  are  topped  in  the  fourth  or  fifth  year,  when  about  ten 
feet  high.  If  allowed  to  grow  to  too  great  a  height,  the  side  branches, 
which  are  the  best  bearers,  would  be  injured  in  their  development,  and,  in 
addition,  there  would  be  difficulty  in  gathering  the  berries. 

Crops. 

The  crop  is  gathered  according  as  the  fruit  changes  its  colour  from 
green  to  a  fine  red  cherry  hue.  In  our  colonies,  as  soon  as  the  fruits 
are  gathered  they  are  laid  in  the  sun,  to  dry  them  in  their  pulp,  and 
afterwards  pounded  in  a  mortar,  to  separate  the  dry  pulp  from  the  parch 
ment,  or  second  covering  of  the  berry. 

In  the  Philippines,  the  Indians,  after  each  gathering,  bruise  the  pulp 
with  their  hands,  and  separate  the  grains  by  washing  them  in  clean  open 
water,  and,  after  this  manipulation,  the  grains  which  retain  their  parch 
ment  or  second  covering  are  alone  dried  for  some  hours  in  the  sun,  and 
then  collected  in  sacks. 

By  the  first  method  several  weeks  of  drying  become  necessary  before 
the  berries  can  be  separated  from  the  husks  ;  and  if  the  rains  occur  it  will 
be  requisite  to  turn  over  the  coffee  heaps  three  or  four  times  every  day  while 
they  are  thus  drying,  or  fermentation  will  inevitably  take  place,  which  will 
prove  exceedingly  injurious  to  the  quality  of  the  coffee.  By  the  Indian 
method,  one  fine  day  of  exposure  to  the  sun  will  be  sufficient  to  render  the 
berry  quite  dry,  and  then  the  whole  crop  can  be  put  into  the  stores. 

VII. 
CACAO. 

The  cacao  grows  with  ease  in  every  part  of  the  island  of  Luzon,  but 
the  best  quality  is  produced  at  Zebon,  where,  also,  the  greatest  quantity  is 
cultivated. 

The  spots  best  suited  for  the  cultivation  are  alluvial  lands,  having 
great  depth  of  soil,  and  somewhat  shaded  by  trees.  The  expense  of  culti 
vating  cacao  is,  for  the  first  year,  greater  than  that  of  coffee ;  for,  after 
removing  the  weeds,  the  brushwood,  and  the  trees  that  give  too  much 
shade,  a  quincunx  of  ditches  is  dug,  of  four  or  five  feet  deep,  on  a  square 
of  equal  extent ;  the  earth  is  passed  through  a  hurdle,  and  in  it  are  mixed 


PHILIPPINE   ISLANDS.  323 

pieces  of  plants  which  have  been  broken,  and  the  earth  is  thrown  back 
into  the  ditches,  and  therein  are  set  the  young  plants,  of  which  such  care 
has  been  taken  as  to  have  them  sprouting  during  the  previous  three 
weeks,  in  a  little  earth  laid  in  banana  leaves. 

During  two  or  three  years  care  is  taken  to  dig  around  the  young 
shrubs,  and  to  eradicate  all  the  weeds  likely  to  prove  injurious  to  them. 

Crops. 

The  crop  consists  merely  in  gathering  the  fruits  when  ripe,  in  opening 
them,  in  separating  the  beans  from  the  parchment,  and  in  drying  them 
before  the  sun. 

VIII. 
COTTON. 

The  cultivation  of  cotton,  which  is  carried  on  to  a  great  extent,  and 
especially  in  the  province  of  Ilocos,  is,  of  all  the  products  of  the  Philippines, 
that  which  requires  the  least  labour  and  expense ;  it  generally  follows  a 
crop  of  mountain  rice.  As  soon  as  the  rice  crop  is  carried  off,  the  ground 
receives  a  light  ploughing,  and  in  the  tracks  made  afterwards  by  the 
plough,  at  a  distance  of  a  yard  from  each  other,  some  cotton  seeds  are  laid, 
and  covered  in  the  earth.  In  about  two  months  afterwards  the  cotton 
plants  begin  to  flower,  and  to  produce  fruit,  which  is  gathered  in  every 
day  during  the  hottest  hours. 

The  gathering  of  this  crop  lasts  until  the  first  rains,  which  destroj 
the  shrubs,  and  stain  all  the  cotton  that  they  then  produce. 

IX. 

PEPPER. 

Formerly  the  island  of  Luzon,  and  particularly  the  provinces  of  Laguna 
and  Batay,  used  to  produce  a  large  quantity  of  pepper,  which  was  exported 
by  the  Philippine  Company,  who  had  a  monopoly  of  it. 

The  price  was  at  that  time  fixed  by  a  measure  called  ganta,  which  was 
used  both  by  sellers  and  buyers.  When  the  growers  came  to  sell  their 
products  at  Manilla  they  found  that  the  agents  of  the  company  had 
altered  the  measure,  by  making  that  of  the  company  double  the  capacity 


324  STATISTICS    OF   THE 

of  the  one  used  by  the  Indians,  thereby  cheating  the  sellers.  The  Indians, 
furious  at  this  trick,  went  back  to  their  own  country,  and  in  a  few  days 
destroyed  all  the  pepper  plantations,  so  that  now  the  island  of  Luzon 
scarcely  produces  pepper  sufficient  for  its  own  consumption. 

The  pepper  plant  is  generally  cultivated  near  the  mountains,  in  spots 
where  heavy  dews  fall  and  keep  up  the  moisture.  This  parasite  requires  but 
little  care  ;  it  is  propagated  by  cuttings,  and  it  is  enough  to  take  a  piece 
of  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches,  to  bend  it  together,  to  cover  the  middle 
with  earth,  and  to  tie  the  two  points  against  a  prop,  of  from  five  to  six 
feet  in  height,  and  as  far  as  possible  of  dead  wood,  covered  with  its  bark,  and 
capable  of  absorbing  much  moisture.  The  young  plant  grows  up,  fasten 
ing  to  the  dend  wood,  and  mounts  as  high  as  its  top  ;  all  that  is  required 
afterwards  is  to  weed  around  it,  and  to  dig  the  earth  once  a  year  at  its  foot. 

Crops. 

The  grains  are  gathered  as  fast  as  they  change  in  colour  from  green  to 
black.  They  are  collected  in  heaps,  and  spread  out  in  the  sun  for  some 
days,  in  order  to  be  thoroughly  dried. 


WHEAT. 

Wheat  produces  in  the  island  of  Luzon  from  sixty  to  eighty- fold,  and  is 
grown  on  the  mountains  in  the  different  provinces,  and  in  particular  that  of 
Batangas.  Before  sowing  it,  the  Indians  prepare  the  ground  altogether 
in  the  same  manner  as  for  the  mountain  rice,  and  their  seeding  time  is  at 
t'he  end  of  December  or  the  beginning  of  January.  Three  or  four  weeks 
after  the  sowing  the  women  give  it  a  good  weeding,  and  in  three  months 
and  a-half,  or  four  months,  the  crop  is  ready  for  harvesting,  and  is  saved 
in  precisely  the  same  manner  as  the  mountain  rice. 

XI. 

SUGAR-CANE. 

The  cultivation  of  the  sugar-cane  takes  place  according  to  two  methods, 
which  differ  from  each  other : — the  one  is  practised  in  lands  just  cleared, 
and  the  other  in  lands  that  have  been  already  ploughed. 


PHILIPPINE   ISLANDS.  325 


First  Method. 

The  first  method  affords  one  of  the  most  effectual  means  for  carrying 
out  a  great  clearing  at  a  small  expense,  and  is  as  follows  : 

Towards  the  month  of  October  all  the  trees  and  brushwood  are  cut 
down  on  the  ground  which  is  to  be  cleared  for  planting.  This  work  must 
be  done  with  great  care,  and  it  ought  not  to  be  neglecte;!,  as  soon  as  a 
tree  is  cut  down,  to  lop  off  every  one  of  its  branches,  and  to  strip  it  of  the 
bark ;  for  if  any  time,  even  a  few  days,  are  allowed  to  pass,  the  wood 
becomes  dry,  and  the  barking  is  not  only  more  difficult  but  more  expensive. 
Fifteen  days  after  all  the  trees  are  cut  down,  a  fine  day  is  chosen,  when 
there  is  no  wind,  and  when  the  sun  is  ardent,  to  set  fire  to  them.  On  the 
following  day,  when  all  is  burned  except  the  logs  of  a  great  thickness, 
the  workmen  are  employed  in  forming  a  fence  round  the  plantation,  to 
prevent  it  being  trespassed  on  by  animals ;  and  to  make  this  fence  the 
trees  which  have  not  been  burned  are  used ;  but  the  heavy  logs,  which 
cannot  be  removed  with  ease,  are  left  on  the  ground,  to  be  burned  in  the  follow 
ing  year.  When  the  fence  is  completed,  or  even  while  it  is  going  forward, 
some  workmen  are  employed  in  preparing  the  soil  for  receiving  the  young 
cune  plants  ;  each  workman. has  a  line  to  mark  out  the  rows,  at  from  four 
to  five  feet  distance  from  each  other,  and  in  each  of  these  rows,  at  three  feet 
distance  from  one  another,  the  workmen,  with  a  hoe,  open  a  little  hole  or 
furrow,  a  foot  and  a-half  long,  from  five  to  six  inches  wide,  and  at  least  six 
inches  deep,  in  which  the  plants  are  put. 

Before  the  holes  are  made  for  receiving  the  plants,  it  is  indispensable 
to  divide  the  ground  into  large  squares  of  from  eighty  to  a  hundred  square 
yards,  and  each  of  them  is  separated  from  the  others  by  alleys  of  at  least 
three  yards  in  breadth.  When  all  the  preparations  are  ready,  the  plants 
are  procured.  They  are  the  points  of  the  canes  which  have  been  already 
gathered  in,  and  which  serve  as  saplings  for  the  new  plantation.  They 
are  cut  off  in  lengths  of  from  ten  to  twelve  inches,  tied  up  in  large 
parcels,  like  asparagus,  and  laid  in  water  for  at  least  three  days, 
BO  as  to  be  thoroughly  steeped,  care  being  taken  that  the  water  is  not  at 
all  corrupted.  After  three  days'  steeping  the  plants  are  taken  to  the 
new  plantation,  the  bundles  are  loosened,  and  the  cuttings  are  given 


3i26  STATISTICS    OF   THE 

out  to  the  planters,  who,  stripping  off  some  of  the  leaves,  lay  two  of  them  in 
each  hole,  in  such  a  manner  that  each  plant  lies  at  length  along  the 
furrow  or  hole  ;  and  if  the  bottom  be  not  quite  level,  a  little  earth  is  added 
to  make  it  so.  The  point  of  a  plant  rises  at  each  end  of  the  hole,  which  is 
then  filled  up  with  finely  powdered  mould.  If  the  plantation  has  been 
prepared  during  great  heat,  and  if  the  drought  be  excessive,  it  is  indis 
pensable,  before  the  plants  are  laid  in  the  furrow,  to  pour  into  it  from  one 
to  two  quarts  of  water. 

When  the  plantation  is  finished  it  is  not  to  be  touched  again  until  the 
weeds  begin  to  grow,  and  great  care  must  then  be  taken  to  destroy  them 
as  they  spring  up,  otherwise  they  would  soon  smother  the  young  canes ; 
but  as  soon  as  the  latter  have  grown  up,  and  cover  the  ground  with  their 
large  leaves,  it  is  unnecessary  to  make  any  further  wecdings,  or  to  do  any 
other  work,  up  to  the  time  of  harvesting  the  canes. 

It  is  usually  from  the  month  of  March  to  the  end  of  May,  and  even  in 
the  beginning  of  June,  that  plantations  are  made  according  to  the  method 
which  I  have  described.  Ten  or  twelve  months  afterwards  the  canes  are 
fit  for  being  collected.  As  the  canes  are  cut  down  in  one  of  the  large 
j-quares  that  form  the  divisions  of  the  plantation,  the  alleys  round  it  are 
cleaned  with  the  greatest  care  of  all  the  dry  weeds,  and  of  all  the  cane 
leaves ;  and  at  the  time  of  the  day  when  there  is  least  or  no  wind,  that 
square  is  surrounded  by  the  work-people,  with  branches  in  their  hands,  and 
fire  is  then  set  to  the  heaps  of  leaves  covering  the  ground  to  the  height 
of  from  one  to  two  feet,  arid  in  a  few  minutes  the  whole  is  consumed. 
The  precautions  taken  to  clean  the  alleys,  and  to  place  the  work-people 
with  branches  in  their  hands,  arise  from  the  dread  of  the  fires  communi 
cating  with  the  other  parts  of  the  field  from  which  the  cane  crop  has  not 
been  removed. 

A  few  days  after  the  leaves  are  thus  burned,  the  plough  is  taken  into 
the  ground,  and  some  sods  are  taken  away  from  near  the  stumps,  so  as  to 
strip  them,  and  to  throw  the  earth  into  the  middle  between  the  rows. 
The  first  time  that  the  plough  is  set  at  work  in  this  ground  great  obstacles 
may  be  met  with,  which  require  to  be  treated  with  caution ;  they  arise 
from  the  great  quantity  of  the  roots  of  the  trees,  which  are  not  yet  rotten, 
and  ploughing  there  becomes,  on  that  account,  a  troublesome  task.  If 
the  difficulties  are  too  great,  the  pickaxe  and  mattock  must  be  substituted 


PHILIPPINE   ISLANDS.  827 

for  the  plough,  and  the  foot  of  each  plant  must  be  stripped,  by  throwing  the 
earth  into  the  middle  between  the  rows.  As  soon  as  the  first  rains  begin, 
and  that  the  weeds  shoot  up  with  the  canes,  a  part  of  them  must  be  de 
stroyed  by  the  plough,  if  possible,  and  the  rest  by  the  mattock.  If  the 
plough  cannot  be  employed,  this  work  of  weeding  takes  place  usually  three 
times  in  the  year ;  at  the  second  time,  the  lower  part  of  the  canes  are 
slightly  dug  around,  and,  at  the  third  time,  fresh  earth  is  laid  to  them. 
But  this  second  digging  must  be  varied  according  to  the  fertility  of  the 
soil  and  the  age  of  the  canes,  for  the  younger  the  cane  and  the  more 
fertile  the  soil,  the  less  it  is  useful  to  put  fresh  earth  to  the  foot  of  the 
plant,  and  I  shall  now  tell  you  why. 

Inversely  to  all  other  plants,  the  cane  tends  always  to  raise  itself 
under  the  earth  ;  that  is  to  say,  if  in  the  first  year  you  plant  it  six  inches 
under  ground,  in  the  second  year  it  will  be  found  at  only  three  inches,  in 
the  third  year  at  the  surface,  and  in  the  fourth  year  in  the  earth  which  has 
served  as  the  second  covering ;  so  that  the  more  you  heap  earth  and  the 
quicker  it  ascends,  the  greater  the  risk  you  run  of  losing  several  crops. 
In  a  fertile  soil,  it  is  enough  to  cover  lightly  with  earth  the  foot  of  the 
stock,  so  that  it  shall  sprout  with  vigour,  and  give  a  large  quantity,  and 
then  you  may  augment  your  second  covering,  by  little  and  little,  to  have 
from  the  same  plantation  the  largest  number  possible  of  new  canes. 

In  the  third  year,  generally,  all  the  stumps  of  the  trees  and  their  roots 
are  destroyed,  and  almost  all  the  work  can  then  be  got  through  with  the 
plough  :  the  mattock  is  used  only  for  the  second  covering,  which  ought 
then  to  be  done  so  as  to  cover  the  stock  of  the  cane  to  the  height  of  from 
ten  to  twelve  inches. 

Such  is  the  course  that  is  to  be  followed  for  making  a  plantation  on 
ground  just  cleared.  One  important  advice  is  requisite  here,  and  that  is, 
not  to  attempt  to  plant  more  than  can  be  carefully  attended  to ;  for  if  the 
mistake  is  committed,  of  having  too  much  ground  planted,  it  would  be 
better  to  abandon  altogether  a  part  of  the  planting,  in  order  to  take 
proper  care  of  the  remainder,  than  to  manage  the  whole  badly. 
...  f 

Jecond  Method. 
The  cultivation  of  the  sugar-cane  by  the  plough  costs  much  less  than 


828  STATISTICS    Ul<    THE 

that  by  clearing-grounds ;  but  it  also  gives  in  a  shorter  time  two  crops, 
sometimes  three,  in  very  good  hands. 

One  of  the  first  conditions  is,  about  the  month  of  November,  December, 
or  January,  to  plough  the  land  three  times,  and  to  harrow  it  twice.  When 
it  is  will  tilled  and  the  earth  quite  fine,  the  land  is  divided  into  squares  of 
from  eighty  to  a  hundred  yards,  and  along  each  ditch  between  them  alleys  are 
left,  of  three  or  four  yards  in  breadth  :  then  divisions  are  made  to  facilitate 
the  burning  of  the  leaves  after  harvest,  which  is  done  in  the  same  way  as  in 
the  cleared  lands.  When  the  land  is  so  divided,  the  third  and  last 
ploughing  is  given,  for  the  purpose  of  tracing  the  lines  into  rows,  in  which 
the  canes  are  to  be  planted.  These  rows  are  from  four  to  four  and  a-half  feet 
asunder,  and  this  last  ploughing  leaves  a  furrow,  which  marks  the  line  for 
laying  down  the  plants.  When  the  work  is  finished  the  plantations  are 
surrounded  with  palisades,  to  preserve  the  canes  from  animals,  which 
might  destroy  them ;  and  the  plants  are  got  ready  in  the  same  manner 
as  for  the  plantation  of  cleared  lands,  and  the  holes  are  opened  by  one  set 
of  workmen,  while  others  follow  and  lay  the  plants  down  and  cover  them 
with  earth. 

If  the  plantations  are  got  ready  at  the  proper  season,  there  is  no  ne 
cessity  for  watering  the  plants  ;  but  if  the  season  is  very  dry,  care  is  taken 
to  pour  from  one  to  two  quarts  of  water  in  each  hole.  The  plantations 
are  usually  made  during  the  harvest,  for  it  is  then  that  the  tops  of  the 
plants  which  are  cut  down  can  be  easily  obtained ;  but  as  that  occurs  at 
the  time  of  the  greatest  drought,  and  water  is  required,  the  process 
becomes  tedious  and  costly,  from  having  to  bring  to  the  ground  so  many 
thousand  quarts  of  water.  To  avoid  that  expense,  and  also  that  of  weeding, 
it  has  been  found  useful  to  prepare  a  field  of  canes  specially  designed  for 
plants  and  for  nothing  else.  The  planting  is  then  carried  on  in  the  month 
of  December  or  January — that  is,  before  harvest,  when  there  are  no  heavy 
rains,  but  there  is  a  sufficiency  of  humidity.  The  plant  then  vegetates 
luxuriously,  and  is  strong  and  large  when  the  heavy  rains  begin  to  fall. 
But  whether  the  planting  be  done  in  times  of  humidity  or  of  great  drought, 
the  process  of  cultivation  is  always  the  same.  As  soon  as  the  rains  begin 
and  the  weeds  shoot  up,  it  becomes  necessary  to  have  recourse  to  the 
plough,  which  is  run  within  the  rows,  and  care  is  taken  to  keep  the  furrow 
in  the  middle,  and  to  strip  a  little  the  foot  of  the  plants ;  and,  after  the 


ISLANDS.  329 

ploughing,  it  is  almost  indispensable  to  weed  with  the  mattock  and  the 
hand  the  ground  round  the  plants,  in  order  to  thoroughly  eradicate  the 
bad  herbs  which  the  plough  could  not  reach. 

Generally,  during  the  time  that  the  plant  requires  for  growing  up  to 
the  height  at  which  its  leaves  are  sufficient  to  keep  down  the  weeds,  it  is 
necessary  to  run  the  plough  three  times  between  the  rows,  and  also  to 
weed  them  three  times.  The  harvesting  is  done  in  the  same  manner  as 
that  of  the  cleared-ground  plantations,  and  as  the  plants  of  one  square 
have  been  cut  down,  the  leaves  should  be  burned,  and  as  soon  as  possible 
the  plough  is  to  be  run  between  the  rows,  and  the  earth  thrown  into 
the  middle.  I  have  said  that,  as  scon  as  possible  the  plough  must  be 
used,  because,  after  the  leaves  are  burned,  the  ground  is  moist,  and  the 
ploughing  is  done  with  great  ease  ;  but  if  any  delay  is  allowed,  the  glowing 
sun,  at  that  epoch  of  the  harvest,  is  so  strong  that  the  ground  soon  becomes 
parched  up,  and  the  ploughing  becomes  less  easy,  and  more  injurious  to  the 
next  growth. 

In  good  lands  tha  same  plant  produces  two  or  three  crops. 

Crops. 

The  harvesting  of  the  sugar-canes  takes  place  in  the  Philippines  from 
the  month  of  January  to  May  which  is  the  times  of  the  greatest  heats.  If 
this  harvesting  can  be  effected  within  two  months,  it  would  be  preferable 
to  commence  it  in  the  month  of  March,  in  order  to  terminate  it  about  the 
middle  of  May  ;  for  it  is  during  those  months  that  the  sugar-cane  pro 
duces  matter,  richer,  and  better  filled  with  sugar.  It  is  aiso  the  time  when 
the  rains  are  not  to  be  found ;  but  when  there  is  a  large  plantation,  and  not 
hands  or  machines  sufficient  to  finish  it  in  those  two  months,  a  beginning 
is  made  in  January,  in  order  to  finish  towards  the  end  of  May,  when  the 
heavy  fall  of  rain  commences. 

The  workmen  are  divided  into  four  sets  :  two  for  the  field — one  of  the 
cutters,  and  the  other  of  the  carters  or  carriers  of  the  canes  to  the  manu 
factory  ;  and  two  for  the  manufactory,  of  whom  one  is  occupied  with 
grinding  the  canes  in  a  mill,  and  the  others  who  boil  the  sugar.  To  make 
a  good  economical  harvest  of  sugar-canes  depends  upon  having  a  good 
mill,  and  upon  a  proper  distribution  of  the  workmen.  The  mill  is  the 
leader  of  the  work  ;  for  on  its  regularity  depends  the  constant,  orderly 


330  STATISTICS    OF   THE 

labour  of  the  workmen,  with  advantage  to  the  grower.  When  the  mill 
works  well,  and  with  good  well-directed  workmen,  they  who  boil  the  sugar 
have  not  a  minute  to  spare  ;  for  they  are  obliged  to  boil  all  the  syrup  that 
the  mill  sends  them.  If  the  mill  grinds  many  canes,  the  cutters  are 
forced  to  cut  an  abundance  of  them,  and  the  men  who  have  the  duty  of 
transporting  them  to  the  mill  cannot  be  idle  while  taking  them  there.  It 
is  therefore  an  essential  precaution  to  have  a  good  mill,  and  a  number  of 
good  workmen  to  keep  it  properly  at  work. 

Two  days  before  the  milling  of  the  canes  begins,  the  practice  is  to  cut 
as  many  canes  as  possible,  and  they  are  taken  to  the  mill.  This  practice 
has  been  adopted  in  order  to  have  beforehand  a  sufficient  quantity,  so  as  to 
avoid  the  vexation  of  seeing  the  mill  stopped  from  want  of  a  supply,  since 
in  that  case  all  the  work  is  stopped,  and  some  of  the  workmen  have  to 
remain  idle. 

It  is  always  recommended  to  the  cutters  to  cut  the  canes  as  low  as 
possible — that  is,  on  a  level  with  the  ground  ;  for  every  piece  left  above  the 
ground  is  so  much  lost,  and  becomes  an  obstacle  to  the  next  cultivation. 

I  shall  not  enter  into  the  details  of  sugar  boiling,  for  within  some  few 
years  the  greatest  improvements  have  been  introduced  into  the  apparatus 
used  for  the  purpose,  and  it  would  not  be  possible,  in  this  short  sketch,  to 
describe  the  new  machinery,  or  the  methods  of  making  use  of  the  various 
utensils. 

In  the  Philippine;?,  the  last  improvement  that  has  been  made  was  to 
copy  that  which  was  done,  or  perhaps  what  is  now  going  on,  in  Bourbon— 
that  is,  by  working  a  battery,  composed  in  general  of  from  five  to  six 
boilers,  gradually  diminishing  in  size ;  from  the  first,  in  which  the  defeca 
tion  of  the  juice  takes  place,  the  syrup  is  successively  passed  on  to  the  last,  in 
which  the  boiling  of  it  is  effected.  Each  operation  requires  forty-five  minutes. 
After  the  juice  has  been  defecated,  and  the  battery  is  in  full  operation,  you 
take  of  the  defecated  product  from  a  hundred  arid  thirty  to  a  hundred  and 
fifty  pounds  of  sugar.  The  chief  difficulty  in  boiling  sugar  is  the  defecation, 
or  clarification,  by  removing  extraneous  particles,  and  also  the  boiling  it 
to  the  proper  point ;  for  practice  alone  can  teach  you  when  one  has  put 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  lime,  in  order  that  the  syrup  shall  be  properly 
clarified,  and  practice  also  can  alone  show  when  the  sugar  has  been  boiled 
to  the  proper  point. 


PHILIPPINE    ISLANDS.  331 

XII. 

BAMBOO. 

Its  Culture,  Mode  of  Planting,  Cutting,  and  Preservation. 

The  bamboo  in  the  Philippines  is  a  native,  plant  which  grows  there 
almost  without  any  cultivation,  on  the  mountains  and  in  the  plains.  It 
presents  varieties  of  fifteen  or  twenty  species,  from  those  of  from  two  to 
three  inches  in  circumference  to  others  as  thick  as  a  man's  arm.  There 
are  some  having  in  the  inside  a  hollow  space,  which  is  sometimes  from 
eighteen  to  twenty-five  inches  in  diameter.  All  these  various  bamboos 
have  their  different  uses.  With  the  small  ones,  enclosed  fields  are  fenced 
in  ;  with  the  Large  ones,  conduits  are  made  for  removing  water.  When 
divided  into  long  slight  filaments  they  are  made  into  hats,  baskets, 
ropes  of  considerable  strength,  arms  and  weapons  which  cut  through 
flesh  with  as  much  facility  as  does  steel,  and  even  fleams  for  bleeding 
horses  and  buffaloes ;  and  even  kitchen  utensils  for  boiling  food,  in 
the  same  manner  as  in  an  iron  pot.  It  is  also  with  the  bamboo,  that 
the  traveller  can  in  a  moment  procure  fire,  as  with  a  tinder-box  and  a 
flint. 

The  cultivation  of  the  bamboo  is  of  the  simplest  nature ;  it  is  trans 
planted  by  cuttings  and  layers.  A  piece  is  taken,  divided  into  five  or  six 
knots  ;  a  hole  is  made  with  a  mattock,  and  this  piece  of  bamboo  is  laid 
therein  with  a  slight  inclination  ;  and  is  then  covered  up  with  earth. 
The  end  above  ground  has  two  knots,  and  a  split  is  made  in  it  so  as  to  allow 
the  rain-water  to  rest  there  as  in  a  reservoir  ;  if  there  be  a  strong  drought 
at  the  moment  of  planting,  this  part  is  filled  wjth  water,  and  the  plant 
is  left  to  itself.  Care  is  however  taken,  every  three  or  four  months,  to 
remove  the  brushwood,  which  might  prevent  the  young  plants  from  spring 
ing  up  to  their  usual  height. 

In  three  years  the  first  cuttings  may  take  place,  but  to  preserve  the 
plant,  and  to  cause  it  to  produce  an  abundant  crop  for  many  years,  care 
must  be  taken  to  cut  the  sprouts  which  are  to  be  taken  at  least  from  four 
to  five  yards  from  the  ground.  If  they  are  cut  on  a  level  with  the  earth 
the  plant  would  be  entirely  ruined ;  perhaps  because  the  shoots,  being 


332  STATISTICS   OF   THE 

entirely  stripped,  would  no  longer  be  preserved  from  the  burning  rays  of 
the  sun  ;  or  because  the  branches  and  the  leaves,  which  grow  in  abundance 
round  the  foot  of  the  plant,  cannot  receive  nourishment  any  longer  from 
the  air,  and  have,  therefore,  none  to  furnish  to  the  roots.  I  state  this 
opinion  without  confidently  asserting  it ;  but  it  is  certain  that,  in  order  to 
preserve  a  plantation  of  bamboos,  and  to  have  abundant  crops  of  them, 
the  precautions  I  have  pointed  out  must  be  adopted. 


I  shall  terminate  this  sketch  by  some  observations  on  the  Buffalo,  which 
is  the  faithful  companion  of  the  Indian  in  all  his  toils. 

XIII. 
THE  BUFFALO. 

The  buffalo,  when  domesticated,  is  an  animal  of  more  docility,  and  which 
during  its  life  renders  more  services  to  man  than  does  the  ox.  This 
benefit  depends  on  its  being  tamed  when  young — that  is,  when  only  a  year 
old,  and  then  it  may  be  left  to  the  guidance  of  a  child  of  eight  or  ten 
years ;  but  if  it  is  allowed  to  live  untamed  until  it  is  three  years  old,  it 
becomes  too  restive  and  wicked.  It  is  quite  certain  that  the  tame  buffalo 
will  never  do  the  child  any  injury,  for  its  instinct  is  such  that  it  knows  there 
is  no  bad  treatment  for  it  to  fear  from  a  weak  creature.  In  strength  it  is 
superior  to  the  ox ;  its  food  is  of  the  coarsest  kind,  it  eats  all  kinds  of 
herbs,  even  those  that  are  rejected  by  the  more  delicate  beasts.  The 
buffalo  goes  to  seek  them  in  the  plains,  on  the  mountains,  and  even  at 
the  bottom  of  every  kind  of  water,  where  he  browses,  when  the  heat  forces 
him  to  take  refuge  therein.  The  Indian  associates  the  buffalo  with  all  his 
work  ;  with  the  buffalo  he  ploughs,  and  on  its  back  he  carries  and  trans 
ports  articles  across  mountains,  and  by  paths  that  even  mules  could  not 
travel.  The  Indian  also  mount's  his  buffalo  to  cross  over  considerable 
sheets  of  water ;  he  places  himself,  standing,  on  the  animal's  broad  back,  and 
supports  himself  by  the  leather  strap.  The  docile  animal  swims  patiently, 
and  often  drags  behind  it  the  little  cart,  then  floating  on  the  surface. 


PHlLirriNE    ISLANDS.  333 

The  services  of  the  buffalo  are  so  numerous  that  it  would  be  too  long 
to  enumerate  them.  It  is  necessary  to  have  lived  among  the  Indians,  and 
to  have  carried  on  tillage  with  them,  in  order  to  appreciate,  and  to  know 
thoroughly,  the  great  difference  between  the  buffalo  and  the  ox. 

The  female  buffalo,  being  little  employed  in  work,  gives  a  great  quantity 
of  milk,  which  contains  a  much  stronger  quantity  of  butter  than  that  of 
our  cows.  Excellent  cheese  is  made  from  it. 

In  fine,  another  eminent  service  which  the  buffalo  renders  is,  that  ho 
becomes  a  powerful  means  of  disinfecting  the  marshy  districts.  The  buffalo 
is,  as  it  were,  amphibious ;  he  spends  the  night  while  feeding  on  the 
plains,  and  in  the  day-time,  during  the  heats,  he  is  in  the  marshy  spots  ; 
browsing  on  the  river  brinks,  and  at  the  bottom  of  the  water  ;  everywhere 
any  plants  grow  he  destroys  them,  by  continually  stirring  up  the  muddy 
bottoms ;  he  causes  the  noxious  animals  to  perish  that  are  to  be  found 
therein,  and  changes  at  last  the  nature  of  the  marsh,  which,  when 
frequented  by  troops  of  buffaloes,  no  longer  exhales  those  pestiferous  gasses 
which  are  the  source  of  the  marsh  fevers. 


P.  DE  LA  GIRONIERE. 


AGEICULTUEAL  IMPLEMENTS 


USED  IN   THE   PHILIPPINE   ISLANDS. 


I.— THE  INDIAN  PLOUGH. 

It  is  exceedingly  simple  :  it  is  composed  of  four  pieces  of  wood 
(1,  2,  3,  4),  which  the  most  unhandy  ploughman  can  put  together;  the 
mould  board  and  share,  which  are  of  cast  iron  (5  and  (5),  are  sold  in  the 
Philippines  for  half  a  dollar. 


The  lightness  and  simplicity  of  this  plough  render  it  easy  to  be  used  in 
every  kind  of  cultivation,  and  in  the  plantations  divided  into  rows,  such 
as  those  of  tobacco,  maize,  sugar-canes,  &c.  It  is  used  with  great  advan 
tage,  not  only  for  cutting  down  weeds,  but  also  for  giving  to  each  row  a 
ploughing,  which  is  serviceable  to  the  plantation,  and  which  is  less  costly  and 
quicker  than  simple  weeding  with  the  mattock. 


AGRICULTURAL   IMPLEMENTS. 


335 


II.— YOKE  FOR  THE  BUFFALOES. 

The  yoke  of  the  buffalo  is  of  the  simplest 
and  most  commodious  kind.  It  consists 
solely  of  a  piece  of  wood,  bent  so  as  to  suit 
in  its  shape  to  the  withers  of  the  animal ; 
it  is  worn  on  its  neck,  extending  to  the 
middle  of  the  shoulder,  and  is  fastened 
under  the  neck  by  a  piece  of  twisted  liana- 
or  by  a  piece  of  rope  ;  at  the  two  ends  of  this  piece  of  wood  the  traces  are 
fastened.  Buffaloes  are  always  yoked  one  after  the  other,  like  the  horses 
of  the  public  waggons. 

III.-LILIT,  OR  THE  INDIAN  SICKLE. 


With  the  crook  the  rice  is  caught,  which  being  drawn 
into  the  corner  makes  it  easy  to  take  a  good  handful  of 
it  with  the  left  hand ;  the  crook  is  then  moved  a  little  for 
ward,  by  making  a  slight  movement  with  the  hand,  which 
loosens  it ;  and  by  the  same  movement  the  steel  blade 
comes  into  contact  with  the  straw,  and  then  by  drawing 
the  crook  towards  you,  the  handful  in  the  left  hand  is  cut 
by  one  stroke. 


IV.— THE  COMB  HARROW. 

1 


This  implement  is  used  exclusively  in  the  cultivation  of  aquatic  rice  : 
for  the  purpose  of  reducing  the  ground  to  a  state  of  liquid  mud.  The  cross 
bar  (1)  is  of  wood,  and  the  teeth  (2)  are  of  wrought-iron. 


336 


AGRICULTURAL   IMPLEMENTS. 


V.— A  GUILIGEN,  OR  HAND-MILL. 


A  sort  of  hand-mortar  for  sepa 
rating  the  rice  from  its  husks  (1 
and  2) ;  it  represents  two  truncated 
cones,  made  of  bamboos  woven  to 
gether  like  a  basket.  Each  cone  is 
separated  near  the  middle  by  a* bam 
boo  division,  and  the  space  at  the 
side  of  the  head  is  filled  with  well- 
beaten  clay ;  in  this  clay  are  in 
serted,  to  a  considerable  depth, 
several  little  boards  of  palm  wood,  as 
broad  as  the  middle  finger,  one  third  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  four  inches 
in  length.  They  are  so  placed  as  almost  to  touch  each  other,  and  in  rows, 
like  a  mill-stone  which  has  been  just  picked.  These  two  cones,  when  so 
ready,  are  placed  one  over  the  other  by  the  top,  and  the  upper  one  is 
turned  by  means  of  a  wrench  (3)  on  the  lower  one,  and  the  rice 
passing  between  the  two  grinders  is  slightly  brayed,  and  nothing  is  wanted 
but  a  few  strokes  of  a  pestle,  for  it  to  be  completely  skinned  and  to  show  its 
beautiful  white  colour. 


VI.— THE    MORTAR. 

This  form  of  mortar  is  found  in  every  Indian  cabin, 
where  it  is  daily  in  requisition  for  pounding  the  rice 
consumed  by  the  occupants. 

Luzon,  the  name  of  the  principal  island  of  the 
Philippines,  is  derived  from,  or  rather  is  a  corrup 
tion  of,  the  word  Lugon,  signifying  a  "mortar." 


APPENDIX. 


TESTIMONY  OF  M.  GABRIEL  LAFOND. 

IN  our  own  time,  a  Frenchman,  whose  name  merits  an  honour 
able  distinction,  has  rendered  an  immense  service  to  Manilla,  by 
introducing  and  perfecting  the  culture  of  coffee  in  the  colony. 
This  meritorious  individual  is  M.  Paul  Proust  de  La  Gironiere, 
my  countryman  and  my  friend. 

M.  de  La  Gironiere,  born  at  Nantes,  and  connected  with  the 
principal  merchants  of  that  city,  left  his  native  place  in  1818,  as 
surgeon  on  board  the  Victprine,  fitted  out  by  his  uncle  for  Man 
illa.  Seduced  by  the  natural  beauties  of  the  country,  he  made 
a  second  voyage  there  in  the  following  year  ;  established  himself, 
practised  medicine,  married  the  widow  of  the  Marquis  de  Las 
Salinas,  and  eventually,  having  acquired  a  considerable  estate 
on  the  borders  of  the  Laguna,  he  summoned  his  elder  brother  to 
assist  him  in  working  it. 

In  1828,  the  Spanish  government,  which  had  lost  its  American 
possessions,  felt  the  necessity  of  taking  vigorous  measures  for  the 
development  of  its  remaining  colonies.  Cuba  was  then  at  the 
height  of  its  prosperity  ;  and  the  same  agricultural  and  commercial 
results  were  anxiously  hoped  for  the  Philippines.  A  royal  decree 


338  APPENDIX. 

instituted  various  prizes  for  the  encouragement  of  the  culture  of 
indigo,  cocoa,  cinnamon,  cloves,  tea,  and  coffee.  Amongst  these 
prizes,  one  of  eight  thousand  piasters,*  was  promised  to  any  one  who 
would  plant  and  ripen  sixty  thousand  square  feet  of  coffee.  M.  de 
La  Gironiere  entered  the  field  as  a  competitor,  and  sent  to  the 
Isle  of  Bourbon  for  M.  Adolphe  Delaunay,  an  experienced  colonial 
agriculturist,  to  whom  he  intrusted  the  direction  of  the  new 
plantations.  In  this  enterprise  he  had  to  surmount  obstacles  of 
all  kinds  :  want  of  hands,  want  of  even  pecuniary  aid,  fruitless 
experiments,  the  ravages  occasioned  by  buffaloes,  by  wild  boars, 
by  stags,  by  monkeys,  added  to  which,  the  devastation  caused  by 
clouds  of  locusts,  similar  to  those  of  Egypt.  He  was  likewise 
subjected  to  the  jealous  feelings  of  other  colonists,  who  constantly 
endeavored  to  thwart  his  efforts ;  nevertheless,  aided  by  intelligent 
assistants,  his  perseverance  eventually  enabled  him  to  succeed  in 
conquering  every  obstacle.  He  drew  around  him  a  large  popu 
lation,  he  built  villages,  he  constructed  store-houses,  and  a  beau 
tiful  residence  :  in  a  word,  he  changed  an  unproductive  soil  into 
a  fertile  and  magnificent  property ;  and,  finally,  obtained  the  prize 
of  eight  thousand  piasters,  which  were  paid  him  by  Signor  Enriquez 
the  representative  of  the  Spanish  government.  M.  de  La  Gironiere 
will  no  doubt  find  imitators  ;  the  prosperity  of  his  wide  domain 
will  awaken  the  apathetic  inhabitants  of  the  Philippines ;  and  this 
example  of  the  power  and  influence  of  a  single  human  will,  firm 
and  enlightened,  cannot  fail  to  effect  beneficial  results. 

Jala- Jala,  washed  by  the  limpid  waters  of  the  Laguna,  is  capable 
of  transporting,  by  means  of  barges,  the  produce  of  its  harvests 
to  the  warehouses  of  Manilla,  or  even  on  board  the  vessels  destined 
to  convey  the  same  to  China,  to  India,  or  to  Europe  Its  situation 
is  admirable,  and  one  of  the  finest  of  the  entire  colony.  The  in 
terest  inspired  by  its  creation,  the  vast  labour  thereby  necessitated 
and  the  admirable  results  which  have  crowned  the  same,  drew  the 
numerous  foreigners,  and  especially  Frenchmen,  travelling  in  these 
distant  parts  to  Jala- Jala,  where  they  were  always  received  with 
the  noblest  and  the  most  generous  hospitality. 

*  The  piaste.  is  equal  to  3s.  Id.  British  currency. 


APPENDIX. 


Unfortunately  domestic  afflictions  caused  M.  de  La  Gironierc 
to  leave  a  country  where  he  had  lost  his  wife,  his  children,  and 
his  brother.  Arrived  in  France,  the  government,  upon  the  pro 
position  of  M.  Barrot,  consul-general  at  Manilla,  and  of  the  brave 
Marshal  Soult,  who  knew  how  to  reward  civic  as  well  as  military 
courage,  accorded  him  the  decoration  of  the  Legion  of  Honour  ;  a 
recompense  deservedly  merited.  But  Spain  owes  more  to  Paul  de 
La  Gironiere  than  France.  The  latter  had  regarded  him  as  one 
of  her  children  who  has  carried  civilisation  to  the  other  end  of 
the  world ;  will  Spain  ever  recognise  the  services  he  has  rendered 
her  by  the  admirable  perseverance  he  displayed  with  regard  to 
Philippine  agriculture  ? 


II. 


TESTIMONY  OF  H.  HAMILTON  LINDSAY,  ESQ, 

WESTDEAN  HOUSE,  CHICHESTER. 
August  16th,  1853. 

GENTLEMEN, 

In  reply  to  your  inquiry  as  to  whether  I 

have  any  notes  relative  to  my  visit  to  the  Lake  of  Socolme,  in  com 
pany  with  M.  de  La  Gironiere,  I  am  sorry  to  say  that  I  can  find  none. 
I  have,  however,  a  vivid  recollection  of  that  very  curious  spot, 
which  is  quite  at  your  disposal,  should  you  like  to  insert  it  in  the 
translation  of  La  Gironiere's  work  you  are  about  to  publish. 

All  the  natives  of  the  neighbouring  villages  held  this  lake  in 
superstitious  terror,  and  declared  that  any  one  venturing  on  it 
would  inevitably  be  devoured  by  the  hordes  of  caymans  which 
frequented  it,  so  that  when  in  one  of  our  excursions  we  proposed  to 
explore  it,  not  one  of  our  boatmen  would  come  with  us,  we  had 
therefore  to  go  to  a  village  many  miles  distant  to  engage  a  crew. 
A  single  canoe  certainly  might  have  been  exposed  to  danger  ;  so  to 
obviate  any  risk,  we  had  two  large  canoes  hauled  over  the  mound 
— about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  width,  and  eighty  to  a  hundred 
feet  high — which  separates  Socolme  from  the  Laguna ;  and,  having 
launched  our  canoes,  we  made  a  platform  over  them,  and  lashed 
them  strongly  together ;  and  then  with  a  party  composed  of  La 
Gironiere,  myself,  and  a  Chinese  servant,  with  eight  or  ten  stout 
Tagalocs,  armed  with  four  double-barrelled  guns,  pikes,  cutlasses, 


APPENDIX. 


341 


and  axes,  to  repel  any  attempt  at  boarding,  we  proceeded  to  ex 
plore.  The  number  and  size  of  the  brutes  which  we  saw  cer 
tainly  in  some  measure  justified  the  reputation  of  the  lake, 
though  they  seemed  more  afraid  of  us  than  we  of  them.  As  wo 
proceeded  quietly  round  the  banks  at  least  thirty  rushed  down 
into  the  water,  we  keeping  up  a  constant  fire,  though  without 
succeeding  in  killing  any. 

The  lake  itself  I  should  say  was  less  than  a  mile  in  diameter, 
nearly  a  perfect  circle,  and  the  sides,  excepting  towards  the  La- 
guna,  rising  to  a  considerable  height,  and  covered  writh  trees  of 
a  gigantic  size.  Its  depth  rapidly  shelved  from  five  to  forty 
fathoms  about  one  hundred  yards  from  the  shore,  the  centre 
having  a  uniform  depth  of  forty  to  fifty  fathoms.  It  is  evidently 
the  crater  of  an  extinct  volcano,  the  whole  adjacent  country  be 
ing  volcanic,  but  its  curiosity  consists  in  its  bottom  being  at  least 
twenty  fathoms  below  the  level  of  the  sea. 

I  happen,  among  some  old  papers,  to  find  a  description  of  our 
adventures  in  the  Cave  of  San-Matteo,  which  was  written  the 
day  after  our  visit,  and  is  therefore  more  accurate  and  circum 
stantial  than  that  of  my  friend,  evidently  wrritten  from  imperfect 
recollection,  many  years  after  the  event.  I  now  forward  to  you 
the  original  rough  copy,  as  sent  home  at  the  time  to  my  friends 
in  England,  and,  if  you  think  it  worthy  of  a  place  in  your  book, 
you  arc  quite  at  liberty  to  publish  it. 

La  Gironiere's  book  brings  back  to  my  mind  many  pleasant 
recollections  of  early  youth,  arid  of  two  summers  spent  in  ram 
bling  over  the  beautiful  island  of  Manilla ;  and  it  gives  me  great 
pleasure  to  have  an  opportunity  of  bearing  testimony  to  the  kind 
and  generous  hospitality  I  met  with  at  Jala-Jala,  which  was  my 
head-quarters  for  many  months.  There  are  certainly  some  strange 
stories  of  adventures  in  my  inend's  book,  to  the  general  accuracy 
of  some — in  which  I  was  a  participator — I  can  bear  testimony ; 
others,  especially  those  relating  to  the  extraordinary  gallantry 
and  daring  displayed  by  him  at  the  time  of  the  cholera,  and  con 
sequent  massacre  of  Europeans  at  Manilla,  in  1820,  were  fresh 
in  the  recollection  of  many  at  the  time  of  my  first  acquaintance 

r 


342  APPENDIX. 

with  him.  No  foreigner  enjoyed  more  completely  the  esteem 
and  confidence  of  all  classes  in  Manilla — Spaniards,  Mestizos, 
and  Tagals — than  " Don  Pablo"  and  no  man  can  be  better 
qualified  to  give  authentic  and  valuable  information  regarding 
the  resources  and  agriculture  of  the  island  than  himself.  I 
therefore  look  with  much  interest  to  the  additions  promised  on 
these  points  in  the  volume  you  are  about  to  publish. 

I  have  the  honour  to  remain, 

Your  obedient  servant, 

H.  HAMILTON  LINDSAY. 

To  MESSRS.  VlZETELLY  AND  Co., 

FLEET  STR.EET. 


ACCOUNT    OF  A  VISIT    TO    THE    CAVE    OF    SAN-MATTEO,    IN    THE 
NEIGHBOURHOOD    OF    MANILLA. 


Manilla,  May  26th,  1830. 

We  have  just  returned  from  a  visit  to  the  Cave  of  San-Mat- 
teo,  which  has  long  been  considered  as  one  of  the  most  interest 
ing  objects  of  natural  curiosity  to  be  seen  in  the  Philippines  ; 
but,  as  we  may  consider  ourselves  as  the  first  discoverers  of  the 
wonders  to  be  seen  in  the  innermost  recesses  of  this  extraordi 
nary  cavern,  I  will  forthwith  commit  to  paper  the  particulars  of 
our  journey  while  they  are  yet  fresh  in  my  memory. 

"We  left  Manilla  on  the  afternoon  of  the  24th  May,  and  a 
pleasant  drive  of  an  hour  and  a-half  brought  us  to  Mariquines, 
a  pretty  village,  situated  in  a  fertile  valley,  which  narrows  gra 
dually  as  you  continue  your  journey  towards  Sari-Matteo,  another 
large  village  in  the  centre  of  the  plain,  and  which  has  nothing 
remarkable  to  distinguish  it.  We  slept  here,  and,  having  made 


APPENDIX.  343 

our  arrangements  for  horses,  guides,  &c.,  at  six  the  following 
morning  started  on  our  expedition. 

As  you  proceed  the  valley  grows  narrower,  the  mountains  on 
cither  side  increase  in  height  and  grandeur,  and  you  enjoy  a 
beautiful  view  of  the  mountain  Pariimitan,  in  which  the  cave 
is  situated.  On  arriving  at  the  village  of  Balete,  we  crossed  the 
river,  which  flows  smoothly  and  silently  betwixt  high  and  rich 
ly-wooded  banks.  Our  path  was  in  some  places  barely  practi 
cable  for  horses,  winding  along  the  rocky  banks  of  the  river, 
which  we  had  to  ford  four  times  before  we  arrived  at  the  place 
where  we  had  sent  our  provisions  for  breakfast. 

The  spot  where  we  halted  was  one  which  requires  the  pencil 
of  an  artist  to  give  an  adequate  description  of.  Directly  in  front 
of  us  were  two  stupendous  mountains,  which,  from  their  nearly 
perpendicular  sides,  seemed  to  have  been  torn  asunder  by  some 
violent  convulsion  of  nature,  and  between  them  flowed  the  Rio 
di  San-Matteo,  no  longer  calm  and  placid  as  before,  but  foaming 
and  bubbling  betwixt  huge  rocks  of  white  marble.  The  scene 
was  so  striking,  that — although  to  my  infinite  regret,  I  have  no 
idea  of  handling  the  pencil — I  endeavored,  by  the  assistance  of 
a  few  outlines,  and  writing  down  where  were  to  be  rocks,  wood, 
and  water,  to  carry  away  with  me  what  might  enable  another 
to  delineate  the  scene. 

I  must  not  forget  here  to  make  honourable  mention  of  the  de 
licious  fish  with  which  we  were  regaled,  as  there  is  something 
peculiar  both  in  the  mode  of  catching  and  dressing  them.  The 
water  of  the  river  is  clear  as  crystal,  and  in  some  places  very 
deep,  and  when  the  fish  are  playing  on  the  surface,  an  Indian 
dives  to  the  bottom  and,  rising  directly  under  them,  catches  the 
fish  in  his  hand  with  surprising  dexterity ;  and  the  mode  of  dress 
ing  them  is  one  certainly  deserving  the  admiration  of  the  wholo 
race  of  gourmands.  A  few  joints  of  the  green  bamboo,  about 
two  feet  long,  are  cut,  into  which  the  fish  is  thrust,  with  some 
leaves  of  an  herb  much  resembling  sorrel,  a  few  pimentos,  and 
other  spices,  and  a  little  water  is  also  put  in  ;  the  mouth  of  the 
cane  is  then  stuffed  with  leaves,  and  it  is  put  into  the  middle 


344  APPENDIX. 

of  a  hot  fire  ;  as  soon  as  the  bamboo  begins  to  burn,  the  fish  is 
dressed,  and  I  will  defy  any  restorateur  of  Paris  or  Amsterdam 
to  produce  a  better  water-souchy  than  we  eat  that  morning. 

All  this  however  caused  delay,  and  it  was  past  ten  before  we 
proceeded  towards  the  object  of  our  journey.  My  only  compa 
nion  was  a  French  gentleman,  M.  de  La  Gironiere.  We  had 
once  more  to  cross  the  river  at  the  narrowest  part  of  the  gorge 
betwixt  the  mountains,  of  which  I  despair  to  give  an  adequate 
description — it  was  nature  in  its  wildest  state.  The  dark  moun 
tains  frowned  perpendicularly  over  us  to  the  height  of  near  two 
thousand  feet,  and  the  river  foamed  arid  rushed  in  numberless 
cascades  through  the  enormous  masses  of  white  marble,  which 
seemed  in  vain  to  endeavour  to  check  its  progress.  It  was  a 
scene  which  I  would  gladly  have  ridden  fifty  miles  to  see,  even 
if  I  had  had  no  other  object,  and  in  the  time  of  the  rains,  the 
torrent  must  be  awful. 

We  crossed  the  river,  stepping  from  rock  to  rock,  and  after 
scrambling  about  a  hundred  and  fifty  feet  by  the  aid  of  rocks 
and  trees,  we  found  ourselves  at  the  mouth  of  the  cavern,  ac 
companied  by  about  twenty  Indians,  all  provided  with  long 
torches  made  of  split  bamboos  ;  we  also  had  not  forgot  to  bring 
wax  candles,  which  afterwards  did  us  good  service  ;  a  line  of 
twenty  yards  to  measure  the  cave  ;  flint,  steel,  and  matches,  in 
case  of  accidents  ;  but,  alas  !  we  forgot  what  was  of  much  im 
portance,  and  which  no  traveller  who  explores  mountains  ought 
ever  to  be  unprovided  with — a  hammer  arid  cold  iron  chisel. 

We  entered  the  cave,  and  proceeded  accurately  to  measure  its 
depth,  of  which  I  had  heard  such  contradictory  reports  at  Manilla. 
My  companion  walked  twenty  yards  into  the  cave,  and,  as  the 
extremity  of  the  string  checked  him,  stopped  and  marked  on  a 
slip  of  paper  ;  I  then  passed  him  another  twenty  yards  and  so  on. 

For  the  first  two  hundred  yards  the  cavern  varies  from  seven 
to  twelve  and  twenty  feet  in  height,  and  about  twelve  in  breadth ; 
the  roof  and  sides  are  composed  of  a  kind  of  soft  calcareous  soap- 
stone,  with  occasional  layers  of  loose  stones  and  sand ;  at  two 
hundred  and  fifty  yardr  our  way  was  impeded  by  large  rocks,  over 


APPENDIX.  345 

which  we  climbed,  and  oil  the  right  side  found  a  precipice,  of 
which  we  had  been  previously  warned.  We  threw  in  large  stones 
which  fell  in  a  pool  of  water  ;  others  which  we  threw  in  a  slant 
ing  direction,  and  with  more  violence,  escaped  the  well,  and  we 
heard  them  bounding  from  rock  to  rock  till  the  sound  wras  lost ; 
having  no  ropes  we  could  not  descend  to  examine  further,  but 
proceeded  on  our  way. 

Here  we  began  to  experience  the  greatest  annoyance  from  the 
torches  of  our  Indians,  which,  from  the  dense  smoke  they  emitted 
consumed  the  air,  and  impeded  our  respiration .  We  endeavoured 
in  vain  to  persuade  them  to  extinguish  them,  and  finding  remon 
strance  useless,  I  got  hold  of  all  I  could  and  threw  them  into  the 
chasm  ;  upon  which  many  of  the  fellow's  got  frightened,  and  left 
us,  and  we  were  thereby  quit  of  two  nuisances  at  once,  as  the 
noise  they  made  was  intolerable. 

The  cavern  here  enlarges,  and  becomes  more  irregular  ;  there 
are  huge  detached  rocks,  through  which  runs  a  stream  of  clear 
water  frequently  above  our  knees,  in  which  I  observed  some  cray 
fish.  Occasionally  we  had  to  clamber  over  masses  of  rock,  twenty 
feet  in  height,  and  carefully  descend  their  slippery  sides.  The 
scene  was  truly  worthy  of  Salvator  Rosa.  The  bright  glare  of 
the  torches  which  disturbed  myriads  of  large  bats  or  flying  foxes 
from  their  holes,  and  illuminated  the  dusky  vault  of  the  cavern, 
and  the  dark  forms  of  the  half-naked  Indians,  formed  quite  a  coup- 
dc-theatre  of  the  grandest  kind. 

At  last,  after  having  counted  six  hundred  yards,  we  reached 
what  had  hitherto  been  considered  the  end  of  the  cavern.  The 
stream  whose  course  we  had  followed  here-  formed  a  kind  of  basin 
five  or  six  feet  in  diameter  and  issued  forth  from  a  hole  in  the 
rock,  which  descended  till  it  touched  the  water,  and  formed  an 
insurmountable  barrier. 

We  found,  in  a  cleft  in  the  rock,  the  broken  wine  bottles  which 
had  been  left  ten  years  before  by  my  present  companion,  and 
several  names  cut  in  the  rock.  There  were  here,  and  in  various 
parts  of  the  cavern,  some  stalactites,  but  of  a  dirty  brown  colour. 

This  seemed  the  termination  of  our  journey,  and  as  wre  were 


346  APPENDIX . 

• 

nearly  stifled  by  the  smoke  of  the  torches,  we  were  thinking  of  a 
return,  when  rny  companion — who  had  all  through  seemed  bent 
upon  making  some  discoveries — descried  a  small  stream  of  water 
descending  through  a  narrow  aperture  in  the  rock  above  us,  and 
immediately  commenced  exploring  it.  The  Indians  all  declared 
that  it  led  no  further,  and  that  it  was  impossible  to  penetrate  it ; 
but  M.  de  La  Gironiere  was  already  out  of  sight,  and  calling  on  me 
to  follow  him,  which  I  readily  did.  Only  one  of  the  Indians  wrould 
accompany  us,  and  a  Chinese  boy  whom  I  had  brought  with  me. 

I  now  found  myself  climbing  up  a  narrow  hole,  like  the  funnel 
of  a  chimney,  composed  of  irregular  rocks,  wet  with  the  constant 
dripping  of  water  ;  sometimes  perpendicular,  sometimes  slanting 
or  horizontal ;  at  times  so  narrow  that  it  required  the  assistance 
of  my  feet  and  arms  to  force  my  way  through,  at  others  large 
enough  to  stand  up  and  barely  touch  the  roof  with  my  hand  ;  but 
conceive  my  delight  at  feeling  a  fresh  and  pure  air  blowing  directly 
in  our  faces,  so  strong  as  to  make  us  fear  for  our  candles.  Fresh 
ened  and  revived,  and  animated  by  the  hope  that  wre  were  going 
to  penetrate  to  the  other  side  of  the  mountain,  we  sat  down  a  few 
moments  to  repose  ourselves,  and  examine  the  spot  wre  had  attained. 

The  cavern  had  here  enlarged  to  eight  or  nine  feet  in  height 
and  more  in  breadth ;  it  was  no  longer  wet  and  dirty  like  the 
previous  part,  but  the  ground  and  sides  were  covered  with  beau 
tiful  stalactites  of  the  purest  white,  forming  numerous  little  pyra 
mids,  like  loaves  of  sugar.  After  a  few  moments'  repose  wre  pro 
ceeded  exploring,  using  the  precaution  always  to  have  three 
candles  lit  at  once,  in  case  of  accidents.  On  reaching  about 
eighty  yards  from  where  we  left  our  Indians,  we  again  thought 
that  we  were  at  the  end  of  the  cave.  A  vault  or  fissue  of  the 
rock  rose  above  us  to  a  height  that  we  could  not  distinguish  the 
top  ;  most  of  the  rocks  were  covered  with  beautiful  incrustations 
and  pyramids,  of  which  I  broke  several  to  take  with  me. 

On  examining  this  cavern  minutely,  I  discovered  to  the  left 
a  small  hole  through  which  I  could  barely  pass  rny  head,  which 
seemed  to  lead  farther,  and  enlarge  as  it  rose.  Here  began  our 
difficulties.  "We  longed  to  get  through  and  pursue  our  researches, 


APPENDIX.  347 

but  wo  had  no  tools  wherewith  to  enlarge  the  aperture,  perseve 
rance,  however,  does  wonders,  and  we  commenced  chipping  the 
rock  away  as  we  could  with  stones.  The  situation  was  also 
awkward  as  before  arriving  at  the  hole ;  the  rocks  were  so  nar 
row  that  only  one  could  work  at  a  time,  and  there  was  no  room 
for  the  arm  to  give  force  to  the  blow. 

However,  it  was  soon  sufficiently  enlarged  for  my  Chinese 
boy  to  crawl  through,  and  we  sent  him  in  with  a  candle  to  report ; 
he  made  good  his  entrance,  ascended  a  kind  of  chimney,  and 
we  lost  sight  of  him,  but  in  a  few  moments  he  returned,  shouting 
with  joy  that  he  had  found  a  large  room  all  white.  I  redoubled 
my  efforts,  and,  at  the  expense  of  numerous  scarifications  of  my 
knees  and  shoulders,  forced  my  way,  and  clambered  up  through 
narrow  rocks  about  ten  feet,  when  I  found  myself  suddenly  in  a 
large  vault  which  rivalled  the  famed  Grotto  of  Antiparos. 

The  ground  and  a  great  part  of  the  walls  were  formed  of  one 
mass  of  pure  white  or  darker  stalactites,  but  all  glittering  like  dia 
monds,  and  covered  with  shining  pebbles  of  every  shape  and  size, 
with  which — like  Aladdin  in  the  cave — I  instantly  commenced  fill 
ing  my  pockets.  The  farther  extremity  of  the  grotto  was  lost  in 
darkness,  but  the  most  striking  object  of  all  remains  to  be  described. 

Exactly  over  the  spot  from  which  I  emerged,  as  from  the 
bowels  of  the  earth,  rose  a  pyramid,  white  and  glittering  like  the 
sunbeams  on  frosted  snow,  in  shape  and  form  like  the  altar  of  a 
church,  rising  with  pillars  and  branches  of  stalactites  of  eveiy 
imaginable  shape  to  the  height  of  nearly  thirty  feet.  The  effect 
was  indescribable.  Byron's  fabled  cave  of  the  Island  was  rer '  'zed 
before  my  eyes — 

Wide  it  was  and  high, 
And  showed  a  self-born  Gothic  canopy  ; 
The  arch  upreared  by  Nature's  architect, 
The  architrave  some  earthquake  might  erect, 
The  buttress  from  some  mountain's  bosom  hurled, 
When  the  poles  crushed,  and  water  was  the  world ; 
Or  hardened  from  some  earth-absorbing  fire 
While  yet  the  globe  reeked  from  its  funeral  pyre. 
The  fretted  pinnacle,  the  aisle,  the  nave, 
Were  there,  all  scooped  by  darkness  from  her  cave. 


348  APPENDIX . 

There  with  a  little  tinge  of  phantasy, 
Fantastic  faces  moped  and  mowed  on  high : 
And  there  a  mitre  or  a  shrine  would  fix 
The  eye  upon  its  seeming  crucifix. 
Thus  Nature  played  with  the  stalactites, 
And  built  herself  a  chapel. 

I  am  far  from  being  a  devotee,  but  I  confess  that  for  some  mo 
ments  I  felt  overpowered  by  mingled  feelings  of  awe  and  venera 
tion,  which  can  only  be  felt,  not  described.  It  \vas  not  fear  !  The 
violent  exercise  and  the  situation  I  had  attained  in  so  singular  a 
way  had  excited  my  feelings  to  a  high  degree,  and  rny  reflections 
were  not  ill-suited  to  the  place  and  circumstances. 

We  had  penetrated  nearly  eight  hundred  yards  into  the  very 
entrails  of  the  earth,  to  a  spot  now  for  the  first  time  profaned  by 
human  footsteps,  where  Nature  herself  seemed  to  have  raised  an 
altar  to  the  honour  of  the  Divinity.  The  only  outlet  was  a  nar 
row  aperture,  which  a  single  stone  might  block  up  for  ever.  At 
that  same  hour  on  the  very  day  before,  an  earthquake  had  shaken 
every  house  in  Manilla  to  its  foundations,  and  the  end  of  the  very 
grotto  itself  seemed  choked  by  an  ccroulement  of  stones  and  earth, 
evidently  of  very  recent  date.  I  do  not  believe  that  any  man, 
even  of  the  strongest  nerves,  could  have  prevented  some  reflec 
tions  of  a  serious  nature  from  passing  through  his  mind. 

But  all  this  while  I  have  forgotten  my  poor  compagnon  dc 
voyage,  who,  being  unfortunately  an  inch  or  two  broader  across  the 
shoulders  than  me,  was  exhausting  himself  in  vain  efforts  to  force 
his  way  through,  and  almost  crying  with  vexation  and  disappoint 
ment.  I  went  to  his  aid,  and  we  hammered  away  alternately  till 
the  hole  was  sufficiently  enlarged ;  but  still  he  did  not  get  through 
without  some  severe  bruises ;  and  I  confess  I  was  not  without  con 
siderable  uneasiness  as  to  how  he  would  get  back  again  on  our 
return,  as  the  difficulty  of  our  exit,  feet  foremost,  would  be  con 
siderably  increased  ;  but  reflections  were  useless,  all  we  had  to  do 
was  to  employ  our  time  to  the  best  advantage,  and  endeavour  to 
make  farther  discoveries  while  our  candles  lasted. 

The  grotto  might  be  generally  from  forty  to  sixty  feet  in  height, 
but  in  the  clefts  of  the  rock  the  summit  could  not  be  distinguished ; 


APPENDIX.  349 

in  breadth  about  twenty  yards,  and  forty  or  fifty  in  length,  but  at 
the  farther  end  a  great  part  of  the  roof  and  sides  had  lately  fallen 
in :  neither  was  it  covered  with  stalactites,  but  consisted  of  masses 
of  common  rock,  mixed  with  earth  and  sand,  of  which  I  brought 
away  specimens.  "We  endeavoured  to  climb  up,  but  having  reached 
about  twenty  feet  were  obliged  to  relinquish  the  attempt,  from  the 
extreme  peril  of  dislodging  the  loose  pieces  of  rock,  and  bringing  it 
all  down  together.  At  about  thirty  yards  from  the  entrance  we 
found  a  fissure  in  the  rock,  from  which  issued  a  stream,  in  appear 
ance  like  a  frozen  rivulet  covered  with  snow ;  the  sides  of  the  rock 
were  of  the  same,  and  covered  with  numerous  pendent  icicles  of 
various  size.  The  want  of  a  hammer  and  mallet  prevented  our 
penetrating  farther,  but  it  is  highly  probable  that  this  leads  to  other 
grottoes  perhaps  more  wonderful  than  the  one  we  were  in. 

We  had  now  passed  nearly  four  hours  in  the  cave,  and,  giving 
up  all  prospect  of  getting  farther,  we  began  to  collect  specimens  of 
the  various  curious  obj  ects  with  which  we  were  surrounded.  Here 
again,  for  want  of  proper  implements,  we  were  obliged  to  destroy  ten 
times  more  than  we  carried  away.  The  walls  were  covered  with  the 
most  beautiful  white  flakes,  j  utting  out  like  the  drapery  of  a  curtain, 
from  the  height  of  eight  or  ten  feet,  which  we  were  obliged  to  dash 
to  pieces  to  obtain  a  specimen,  and  it  was  not  without  a  feeling  of 
sacrilege  that  I  broke  away  a  large  fragment  from  the  altar.  Having 
loaded  ourselves  with  as  much  as  we  could  carry,  we  commenced 
our  return.  My  friend  went  first,  and,  after  a  struggle  of  several 
minutes — of  which  he  felt  the  effects  severely  afterwards — he 
forced  his  way  through,  and  relieved  my  mind  from  considerable 
anxiety.  We  followed  without  much  difficulty,  and  returned  to 
where  we  had  left  our  Indians,  who  were  in  great  alarm  as  to 
what  had  become  of  us,  though  none  ventured  to  come  in  search. 

We  made  the  best  of  our  way  to  the  mouth  of  the  cave,  and, 
having  descended  to  the  river,  you  may  conceive  how  we  enjoyed  a 
bottle  of  Bordeaux,  &c.,  which  we  had  brought  with  us,  and  I 
quitted  the  cave  of  San-Matteo,  carrying  away  with  me  recollec 
tions  of  its  wrondcrs  which  will  not  speedily  be  effaced. 


350  APPENDIX. 


Manilla,  June  2nd,  1830. 


Our  curiosity  was  so  strongly  excited  by  what  we  had  seen 
that  since  writing  the  above  we  have  made  another  visit  to  the 
cavern,  in  hopes  of  making  further  discoveries,  and  have  to 
thank  our  good  fortune  that  we  have  returned  in  safety. 

We  this  time  went  provided  with  pickaxes  and  hammers,  bags 
to  carry  away  specimens — in  short,  every  implement  that  we 
could  think  of;  and  three  days  after  our  last  visit,  a  party  of 
four — consisting  of  M.  de  La  Gironiere,  two  other  gentlemen, 
and  myself — returned,  resolutely  bent  on  forcing  a  passage  to 
the  other  side  of  the  mountain,  if  possible.  We  had  also  profited 
by  our  experience,  and  had  an  ample  supply  of  wax  candles,  in 
lieu  of  those  villanous  torches  which  had  so  nearly  stifled  us. 

Since  our  last  visit  I  had  also  read  in  a  French  encyclopedia 
Tournefort's  account  of  the  Grotto  of  Antiparos,  which,  although 
on  a  larger  scale,  has  much  analogy  with  that  of  San-Matteo.  The 
most  singular  coincidence  is  that  the  same  idea  should  strike  the 
imagination  in  the  grottoes  both  of  Antiparos  and  San-Matteo, 
namely,  the  extraordinary  resemblance  of  the  stalactites  to  an  altar. 

M.  de  Nointet,  the  French  ambassador  to  the  Porte,  who 
visited  Antiparos  in  1760  (I  forget  the  exact  date),  went  so  far 
as  to  cause  high  mass  to  be  celebrated  before  it,  and  had  a  sump 
tuous  entertainment  served  there  to  more  than  a  hundred  people. 

We  resolved  in  some  degree  to  imitate  his  proceedings,  at 
least  as  far  as  carrying  with  us  a  cold  dinner  and  a  hamper  of 
excellent  wine,  with  which  we  proposed  to  regale  ourselves  in  the 
grotto,  and  to  leave  some  relics  as  an  encouragement  to  future 
visitors,  to  whom  it  would  be  no  unwelcome  discovery  to  find  a 
few  bottles  of  Champagne  and  Chateau-Margaux ;  but  all  our 
projects  of  amusement  ran  rather  a  narrow  escape  of  coming  to 
a  ratal  termination.  We  proceeded  as  before — accompanied  by 
about  a  dozen  Indians — to  the  basin  of  water,  and  commenced, 
one  by  one,  to  ascend  the  narrow  aperture  before  described. 

The  Indian  who  accompanied  us  on  our  former  visit  went  first, 
and  I  followed  immediately  after  him.  On  arriving  at  a  very 
narrow  and  nearly  perpcrdicular  pass,  Florentine,  after  he  had 


ascended,  called  on  me  to  wait  a  few  moments,  and  he  would  en 
large  the  aperture.  Instead  of  chipping  away  the  corners  of  the 
rock,  he  had  the  imprudence  to  strike  some  violent  blows  with  a 
pi.  kaxe  at  the  rocks  above  him.  After  a  few  blows  we  were  startled 
by  hearing  him  utter  a  loud  shriek,  and,  at  the  same  instant,  we  all 
shuddered  to  see  huge  masses  of  rock  come  tumbling  down  through 
the  aperture,  nearly  immediately  over  our  heads.  For  a  few  short 
moments  the  feeling  of  suspense  was  dreadful :  they  were  moments 
which  none  present  will  soon  forget.  At  length,  thank  God !  the 
noise  ceased,  and  I  called  out  to  Florentine  to  know  what  had 
happened,  bat  received  no  answer.  At  the  same  moment  one  of  our 
companions  below  was  taken  suddenly  ill  from  alarm,  or  some  other 
cause,  and  called  out  for  assistance  to  quit  the  cave.  La  Gironiere 
went  to  his  aid,  and  I  forced  my  way  up  through  the  aperture  to 
assist  the  Indian,  and  my  alarm  was  great  on  seeing  him  stretched 
on  the  ground  without  any  signs  of  life.  I  raised  him  up,  and  as 
certained  that  no  bones  were  broken,  and  threw  water  in  his  face 
to  revive  him,  but  it  was  a  quarter  of  an  hour  before  he  came  to 
himself  sufficiently  to  explain  what  had  happened. 

It  appeared  that,  on  dislodging  a  small  rock,  several  larger  ones 
that  were  supported  by  it  had  fallen  in  from  the  roof,  giving  him 
some  severe  bruises,  and  he,  imagining  that  the  whole  vault  was 
about  to  fall  in  and  crush  him,  had  fainted,  more  from  fright  than 
any  injury  he  had  received.  I  was  now  joined  by  La  Gironiere, 
and  proceeded  to  examine  the  state  of  affairs,  the  result  of  which 
made  us  doubly  thank  Providence  for  our  preservation. 

We  now  remarked  what  had  escaped  our  observation  in  the 
ardour  of  our  first  discovery,  namely,  that  the  watercourse  we  were 
in  was  formed  by  loose  detached  rocks,  which  had  fallen  in  from 
the  roof,  which  was  about  six  feet  high,  and,  on  examination,  we 
found  that  the  whole  mass  was  freshly  cracked  in  various  parts, 
and  in  a  most  perilous  state.  A  very  singular  circumstance  oc 
curred  to  the  pickaxe  which  caused  the  accident.  When  the  Indian 
in  his  alarm  dropped  it,  it  fell  on  one  side,  and  I  found  it  support 
ing  a  rock  of  at  least  four  hundred-weight,  which  had  been  dis 
lodged,  and,  by  a  singular  good  fortune,  had  at  the  moment  found 


352  APPENDIX. 

a  support  in  the  iron  of  the  pickaxe,  which  was  firmly  wedged 
there, — I  would  not  have  removed  it  for  much.  Feeling  convinced 
that  there  was  considerable  danger  in  proceeding  further,  we  re 
turned  to  the  basin  with  our  wounded  Indian  to  consult. 

Having  there  refreshed  ourselves,  and  recovered  from  our 
fright,  the  idea  of  coming  so  far  for  nothing  was  not  agreeable, 
and  we  determined  at  least  to  return  to  the  grotto,  taking  care  to 
try  no  more  experiments  of  the  pickaxe  nature.  We  passed 
cautiously  through  the  dangerous  aperture,  carefully  avoiding  to 
dislodge  any  of  the  loose  rocks,  nor  did  we  attempt  to  enlarge  the 
hole  at  the  entrance  of  the  grotto.  M.  de  La  Gironiere  had  suffered 
so  much  from  his  last  entrance  that  he  did  not  again  attempt  it, 
and  I  confess  I  could  not  pursue  my  researches  in  it  with  the  same 
pleasure  I  formerly  did.  I  examined  the  fissure  at  the  farther  end 
of  the  cavern,  of  which  I  could  not  see  the  termination,  and 
which  evidently  enlarged,  but  not  sufficiently  to  make  it  practic 
able  for  us  to  enter ;  neither  did  we  think  it  wise,  nor  had  we 
time  enough  to  try  to  make  it  possible  for  us  to  force  our  way 
through. 

The  system  of  the  French  naturalist,  M.  de  Tournefort,  relative 
to  the  vegetation  of  stones  or  stalactites  in  the  Grotto  of  Anti- 
paros  as  far  as  my  humble  opinion  goes,  is  not  at  all  borne  out  by 
facts  here.  I  possess  little  or  no  knowledge  of  natural  history,  but 
the  observations  I  made  convinced  me  that  all  the  stalactites  were 
formed  by  the  droppings  of  the  calcareous  water.  The  extremity 
of  the  drapery  of  stalactite  was  always  moistened,  and  evidently  in 
the  process  of  formation ;  and  the  beautiful  pyramids  on  the  ground 
were  found  only  in  places  where  the  roof  did  not  exceed  six  or  eight 
feet  in  height,  and  there  was  always  a  corresponding  one  attached 
to  the  roof,  from  which  the  water  was  continually  dropping.  The 
ground  was  also  covered  with  beautiful  stones,  the  nucleus  of  which 
was  a  black  pebble,  and  the  incrustation  formed  round  them  by 
the  water  resembled  the  crystalised  sugar-plums,  or  dragccs,  so 
strongly,  that  a  few  days  afterwards,  at  a  ball  in  Manilla,  I  filled  a 
small  plate  with  them,  wrapped  up  in  paper,  which  deceived  all 
the  young  ladies  till  they  tried  to  eat  them. 


AITENDIX.  oOo 

"We  had  visited  the  cave  in  the  dryest  time  of  the  year,  just 
before  the  commencement  of  the  rains,  during  which  the  formation 
of  stalactites  must  be  much  more  active  ;  but  still  it  must  have 
been  the  work  of  many  ages  to  form  masses  of  such  magnitude  as 
the  altar, — the  depth  of  solid  alabaster  must  have  been  five  or  six 
feet. 

Having  loaded  ourselves  with  specimens  of  every  description  as 
heavily  as  the  very  inconvenient  road  we  had  to  pass  through  W7ould 
permit,  we  once  more  returned,  and  on  our  way  stopped  and  looked 
into  several  deep  chasms  which  had  never  been  explored,  but  which 
doubtless  will  merit  attention.  I  descended  for  about  twenty  feet 
into  one,  by  a  kind  of  natural  steps  cut  in  the  rock,  and  had  we 
been  provided  with  ropes  might  have  gone  further.  The  air  was 
perfectly  pure  and  free.  At  a  hundred  and  fifty  yards  from  the 
entrance  there  is  another  branch  as  long  as  the  principal  one,  in 
which  we  penetrated  near  two  hundred  yards.  In  short,  it  appears 
that  the  whole  mountain  is  intersected  and  excavated  in  all  direc 
tions  ;  hitherto,  however,  no  one  has  taken  the  trouble  to  explore  it ; 
indeed,  the  principal  part  of  the  whole  island  of  Manilla  is  still  a 
terra  incognita,  even  to  the  Spaniards.  The  Indians  are  timid 
and  superstitious  in  the  extreme. 

They  have  a  curious  legend  respecting  the  cavern,  which  has  a 
singular  resemblance  to  the  German  tale  of  the  "  Three  Brothers," 
in  the  Hartz  Mountains. 

An  Indian  one  day  entered  the  cave  to  catch  bats,  with  the 
wings  of  which  they  compound  some  sort  of  medicine.  On 
arriving  at  the  stream  of  water  he  saw  a  venerable  old  man  on  the 
other  side,  who  offered  his  hand  to  help  him  across  the  stream. 
The  Indian  was  rather  shy  of  his  new  acquaintance,  and  held  out 
the  end  of  his  stick,  which  the  old  man  took,  and  it  instantly  turned 
into  charcoal.  Upon  this  the  Indian  became  anxious  to  return,  and 
thanking  the  old  man  for  his  politeness,  told  him  he  did  not  mean 
to  go  any  further  that  day. 

The  old  man  then  offered  him  three  stones,  and,  to  remove  any 
fear  of  their  burning  his  fingers,  deposited  them  in  the  stream. 
The  Indian  took  them,  and  retreated  as  quick  as  he  could,  without 


354  APPENDIX. 

looking  behind  him ;  and,  on  examining  the  stones  at  the  mouth  of 
the  cave,  to  his  surprise  he  found  them  to  be  three  masses  of  pure 
gold.  The  story  did  not  go  any  further,  as  to  what  use  he  made 
of  his  riches.  The  old  Indian  who  told  me  this  story  said  it  hap 
pened  long  before  the  arrival  of  the  Spaniards. 

H.  H.  L. 


IIL 


TESTIMONY  OF  M.  DUMONT  D'URVILLE. 


residence  of  M.  tie  La  Gironiere,  which  we  reached  in 
the  afternoon,  is  situated  at  the  extremity  of  the  lake.  There, 
upon  a  neck  of  land  which  overlooks  Santa-Cruz,  the  chief  place 
of  the  province,  is  built,  in  the  European  style,  a  commodious 
dwelling,  having  two  stories.  Large  warehouses,  a  sugar  factory 
in  full  operation,  other  establishments  of  lesser  importance,  and  a 
Tagal  village  are  grouped  around  the  habitation.  The  wrhole  of 
this,  which  is  called  "  Jala-  Jala,"  is  the  property  of  a  fellow- 
countryman,  M.  de  La  Gironiere.  Jala-  Jala  has  been  created, 
organised,  watched  over,  and  christened  by  him.  A  few  years 
previously  this  spot  consisted  of  a  wild  forest  and  an  unwhole 
some  swamp,  with  here  and  there  the  cabins  occupied  by  robbers 
arid  pirates.  At  the  present  time  it  is  covered  with  fertile  plan 
tations,  a  profitable  manufactory,  a  tranquil  and  industrious  vil 
lage.  The  native  population,  drawn  thither  by  the  existing 
prosperity,  daily  increases,  while  the  clearing  arid  cultivating  of 
the  surrounding  land  advances  in  due  proportion.  Thus  to  one 
of  our  countrymen  is  due  the  merit  of  having  taken  the  initia 
tive  in  reclaiming  and  fertilising  this  Spanish  soil. 

"  And  to  accomplish  this,  how  many  difficulties,  and  how  much 
jealousy  had  to  be  overcome.  An  inhabitant  of  Manilla  since 
1814,  M.  de  La  Gironiere  only  succeeded  in  disarming  the  local 
antipathies  that  existed  by  a  long  residence  in  the  country,  and  by 
a  Creole  marriage.  What  had  been  until  then  obstinately  refused 


356  APPENDIX. 

even  to  a  native  was  accorded  to  him,  a  Frenchman,  who  was 
confident  of  his  own  powers  and  of  the  fecundity  of  the  soil. 

"  We  met  with  the  most  cordial  hospitality  at  Jala- Jala,  from 
an  excellent  man  possessed  of  many  nohle  qualities.  The  sup 
per  was  gay  and  abundantly  served.  We  chatted  of  Favea  arid 
of  Luzon,  and  drank  in  excellent  claret  to  our  future  voyages, 
and  to  the  prosperity  of  the  model  farm. 

"  The  following  day  our  excursions  into  the  interior  re-com 
menced.  Our  host  gave  us  jackets  and  pantaloons  of  coarse 
cloth ;  he  caused  us  to  cover  our  heads  with  a  salacotc,  which 
served  as  a  protection  as  well  against  the  rain  as  the  sun.  Thus 
dressed,  we  went  to  visit  Santa-Cruz,  a  pretty  little  town  situate 
on  the  borders  of  the  lake,  in  a  plain  covered  with  crops.  The 
convent,  the  church,  the  white  houses,  which  were  detached  oil 
the  woody  hills,  soon  attracted  the  eyes  of  all.  Santa-Cruz  is 
the  chief  market-place  for  the  brisk  sale  of  palm  wine,  and  of 
cocoa  spirits ;  it  is  inhabited  by  Tagals  and  Chinese ;  the  former 
being  agriculturists,  the  latter  dealers.  Unfortunately  the  site  is 
not  healthy,  as  the  inundations  in  the  rainy  seasons  cause  fever 
and  cholera. 

"  At  a  further  distance,  and  in  a  delightful  position,  is  the  cele 
brated  little  village  of  Los  Banos,  which  first  attracted  Europeans 
to  the  province  of  Laguna.  As  its  name  indicates,  this  village 
possesses  baths  of  mineral  water,  the  virtues  of  which  were 
formerly  held  in  high  repute  at  Manilla,  and  cures  were  quoted, 
in  support  of  this  opinion,  of  such  frequency,  and  of  such  an 
extraordinary  nature,  as  to  confound  even  the  medical  practition 
ers.  The  mountain,  on  the  side  of  which  this  village  is  situate, 
is  evidently  the  production  of  a  volcano,  and  the  source  spring 
ing  from  it  is  at  the  temperature  of  boiling  water.  Although 
Sonnerat  assures  us  that  he  saw  fishes  alive  in  it,  we  must,  with 
other  modern  observers,  place  this  assertion  on  the  list  of  tra 
vellers'  fables.  Renouard  de  Sainte-Croix  has  proved  that  no 
plant  could  vegetate  therein.  Every  animal  plunged  into  it 
loses  the  skin  in  a  moment.  An  egg  becomes  quite  hard-boiled 
in  four  minutes. 


APPENDIX.  OO/ 

"  The  waters  of  Los  Banos  appear  to  be  efficacious  principally 
in  diseases  of  the  skin.  In  former  times  it  was  the  fashion  at 
Manilla  to  go  and  spend  a  month  in  the  fine  season  at  these  hot- 
baths,  where  beyond  all  doubt,  as  in  all  other  thermal  localities, 
the  salubrity  of  the  air,  the  exercise  of  the  body,  the  absence  of 
all  broils,  whether  demestic  or  commercial,  a  regular  and  me 
thodical  life,  and  healthy  and  gentle  mode  of  treatment  of  di 
seases,  produced  on  the  bathers  better  effects  than  did  the  curative 
properties  of  the  waters.  But  during  the  last  fifty  years  this 
pilgrimage  for  health  has  fallen  into  disuse.  The  English  inva 
sion  in  1762,  the  appearance  of  bandits  in  an  island  of  the  lake, 
the  high  price  of  the  baths,  their  being  badly  kept — all  these 
causes  had  the  effect  of  keeping  the  crowd  away  from  the  hamlet 
of  Los  Banos.  Yet  there  is  not  to  be  found  in  the  Pyrenees  or  in 
the  Alps  a  site  of  such  an  imposing  and  beautiful  kind.  Enor 
mous  volcanic  blocks,  with  angular  and  facetted  forms,  spiral  co 
lumns,  rocky  pyramids,  bearing  on  their  very  topmost  crests  groups 
of  trees,  of  which  the  age  and  the  names  are  unknown.  In  the 
rear  of  this  row  of  forests  and  of  mountains,  arise  other  moun 
tains  and  other  forests  of  a  different  aspect  and  character,  arid 
from  a  distance  exhibit  in  their  great  elevation  the  courses  of 
their  torrents  into  their  broad  and  deep  fissures,  where  range,  in 
untamed  freedom,  buffaloes,  wild  boars,  stags,  and  negro  tribes, 
which  latter  are  as  savage  as  stags,  wild  boars,  or  buffaloes. 

"  All  these  districts  appear  to  have  the  evident  marks  of  a  dila- 
ccration  ;  the  sunken  peaks  show  the  extinct  craters,  the  black 
ened  stones  bear  witness  to  previous  eruptions,  and  to  complete 
those  symptoms,  Luzon  itself  at  different  periods  trembles  on  its 
basis  ;  the  churches,  the  convents,  the  houses  at  Manilla,  topple 
and  crumble  to  the  level  of  the  earth.  The  nearest  of  those  an 
cient  volcanos  is  a  mile  from  Los  Banos.  The  crater,  which 
formerly  emitted  fire,  is  now  filled  with  greenish  stagnant  water. 
In  this  little  lake,  about  a  league  in  circumference,  are  some 
gigantic  caymans,  who  there  thrive  and  gambol  at  their  ease, 
llcnouard  de  Sainte-Croix  saw  one,  the  length  of  which  ex 
ceeded  fifty  feet. 


358  APPENDIX. 

"  During  onr  excursion  to  Los  Banos,  that  which  struck  us 
most  was  the  prodigious  quantity  of  ducks  and  ducklings,  which 
were  sporting  on  this  part  of  the  lake  ;  the  surface  was  covered 
with  them.  The  cause  of  this  abundance  of  one  kind  of  birds 
was  soon  understood  from  knowing  the  taste  of  the  Tagals,  of  the 
Malays,  and  of  the  Chinese,  who  prefer  them  to  other  fowl.  But 
we  were  puzzled  to  find  out  how  such  a  wonderful  quantity  could 
be  hatched  ;  our  guide,  however,  soon  solved  the  difficulty.  To 
serve  as  substitutes  for  the  ovens  that  are  used  in  China  for  arti 
ficial  incubation,  the  Tagals  have  employed  the  agency  of  human 
heat,  and  they  found,  among  their  indolent  servants  some  patient 
and  steady  hatchers.  A  sort  of  frame  is  made  for  that  purpose, 
on  which  light  sticks  are  laid  across,  well  covered  with  thick 
blankets  ;  the  eggs  are  stowed  up  in  the  frame  in  a  regular  line, 
being  laid  close  to  each  other,  and  kept  in  their  places  by  ashes 
which  fill  up  the  interstices.  The  whole  is  then  raised  up  in  a 
level  position  a  little  over  the  ground,  and  the  sluggish  hatcher 
lays  himself  at  length  on  this  strange  kind  of  sofa  ;  and  then  he 
eats,  drinks,  and  smokes,  and  chews  his  betel,  taking  care  not  to 
injure  the  fragile  shells  he  is  to  fecundate. 

"  Those  hatching  men  are  so  clever  that  they  follow  day  by 
day  the  progress  of  the  embryo,  and  they  aid  the  young  bird  to 
quit  the  shell,  when  the  time  for  breaking  it  has  arrived.  The 
ducklings  are  scarce  out  of  the  shell  when  they  run  to  the  lake, 
and  dabble  in  it  all  the  day,  and  in  the  evening  they  hide  in  the 
floating  cages,  which  are  erected  for  them  on  the  beach.  The 
rearing  of  ducks  is  one  of  the  principal  branches  of  industry  in 
the  village  of  Los  Banos  and  of  Santa-Cruz. 

"  On  the  following  day,  which  was  the  last  of  our  pilgrimage, 
M.  de  la  Gironiere  made  arrangements  for  eur  having  a  partie 
de  cliassc  according  to  the  strictest  rules.  At  break  of  day  we 
were  awakened  by  the  sounds  of  the  horn,  and  in  a  short  time 
dogs  and  grooms,  huntsmen  and  servants,  carriages,  horses,  pa 
lanquins,  were  all  in  movement  towards  the  forest.  It  was  al 
most  a  royal  party. 

"  The  hunt  began  on  the  woody  sides  of  a  hill,  marked  by  such 


APPENDIX.  350 

difficult  paths  as  to  be  nearly  impassable.     We  had  scarcely  got 
into  it  than  the  dogs  started  a  stag,  an  elegant  and  noble  animal, 
but  rather  smaller  than  our  fine  ones.     He  came  close  to  Nor- 
berg,  who  took  aim,  and  the  stag  fell.     A  mile  from  thence  the 
pack  gave  tongue  on  finding  a  new  prey,  which  was  a  wild  boar, 
one  of  the  finest  ever  seen  in  the  forests  of  Laguna.     On  this  oc 
casion  the  honour  of  the  hunt  was  mine.     Shortly  afterwards  we 
descended  from  the  crest  of  the  mountains  into  a  plain  cut  up  by 
copses  and  marshes,  which  is  the  usual  haunt  of  the  wild  buffaloes, 
that  are  the  most  dangerous  animals  of  these  countries,     duiet, 
obedient,  and  even  enduring  when  once  tamed,  the  buffalo  is  ter 
rible  in  the  state  of  nature.     The  sight  of  a  man  maddens  the 
brute  so  that  its  eyes  glow,  and  its  nostrils  throw  out  its  fiery 
breath.     The  unfortunate  hunter  who  misses  his  aim  never  es 
capes  :  he  is  lost.     No  horse  in  full  gallop  can  reach  an  adver 
sary  sooner  ;   no  sanguinary  beast  maintains  such  rancour  and 
blood-thirstiness.     If  he  reaches  you  he  pierces  you  with  his  sharp 
horns,  he  tramples  on  the  earth,  he  tortures  you  while  you  are 
alive,  and  he  insults  you  when  dead.     Even  a  tree  can  afford  no 
security  against  his  pursuit,  for  as  he  cannot  reach  his  victim  on 
the  boughs,  the  buffalo  becomes  the  jailer  before  he  becomes  the 
executioner  ;  he  persists  in  vengeance,  and  takes  his  station  as  an 
obstinate  sentinel  close  to  the  tree  of  asylum,  and  never  quits  his 
post  until  exhausted  by  hunger  and  thirst.     M.  Laplace  relates 
that  a  Tagal  of  Jala-Jala,  while  at  work  in  cutting  down  wood, 
had  the  good  fortune  to  escape  in  a  strange  manner  from  a  buf 
falo  which  had  for  some  time  kept  him  blockaded  in  a  lofty  palm 
tree.     Forced  by  hunger,  the  woodman  had  the  courage  to  come 
down  from  the  tree,  and  to  begin  the  fight  singly  with  his  for 
midable  antagonist.  On  reaching  the  ground,  the  buffalo  attacked, 
but  the  man  avoided  the  horns  by  nimbly  jumping  round  the 
brute,  and  at  length  found  means  with  his  right  hand  to  seize  it 
by  the  tail,  while  with  his  knife  in  his  left  he  inflicted  many 
wounds  on  the  sides  of  the  beast.     Finding  itself  thus  assailed 
the  buffalo  fled  like  an  arrow,  but  the  courageous  Tagal  kept  his 
hold,  and  let  himself  be  dragged  through  the  brush-wood,  over 


360 


APPENDIX. 


the  rocks,  in  the  marshes,  until  he  at  last  fell  covered  with 
mire  and  blood  in  the  place  where  his  enemy  lay  dead. 

"  To  tame  the  wild  buffalo  the  natives  lay  traps  in  ditches 
covered  over  with  leaves,  and  when  the  brute  is  allowed  to  quit 
the  inclosure  he  is  so  overcome  with  hunger,  that  in  his  weakness 
and  exhaustion  he  lets  himself  be  led  to  where  the  tame  animals 
are  feeding,  and  thus  from  the  example  of  others  he  learns  the 
habits  of  slavery.  The  buffalo  born  in  a  state  of  domesticity  has 
seldom  any  desire  for  independence  ;  the  natives  even  say  that 
it  bears  on  the  neck  the  marks  of  the  yoke  of  its  dam,  which 
forms  for  the  wild  buffaloes  the  degrading  brand  of  exclusion  and 
reprobation. 

"  Our  hunt  was  accompanied  by  many  incidents  too  long  to  be 
detailed  here  :  at  one  time  it  was  a  re-roused  animal,  which  en 
gaged  our  attention,  at  another  a  picturesque  site,  then  it  was  a 
hamlet,  then  it  was  a  forest.  But  a  cascade  near  Jala- Jala  was 
one  of  the  things  that  made  a  deep  impression  on  us.  To  reach 
the  spot  it  was  necessary  to  walk  in  the  ted  of  the  ravine,  among 
sharp  arid  slippery  rocks.  Notwithstanding  the  dangers  and  the 
unevenness  of  the  way  we  persisted,  and  we  were  fully  recom 
pensed  by  the  sight  of  this  immense  sheet  of  water,  falling  down 
bet\veen  walls  of  a  perpendicular  rock,  and  sloped  over  with  trees 
and  lianas,  that  formed  themselves  into  festoons  over  the  abyss. 
In  this  spot  there  was  so  much  of  wild  and  primitive  nature  to 
be  observed,  the  most  remarkable  silence  in  the  presence  of  so 
loud  a  noise,  that  our  admiration,  like  our  attention,  was  fully 
absorbed  in  the  contemplation  of  the  scene.  No  animals,  not 
even  birds,  in  a  spot  where  water  alone  seemed  to  possess  life  ; 
sometimes,  indeed,  a  bat  would  dart  out  from  a  split  in  the  rock, 
and  hover  for  a  time  in  the  atmosphere,  which  was  impregnated 
Avith  a  thin  rain.  There  was  but  one  way  to  get  out  of  the  bed 
of  the  torrent,  that  of  the  rock,  which  appeared  to  be  cut  quite 
perpendicular.  The  Tagals  who  accompanied  us  began  the  at 
tempt.  One  of  them  seizing  a  long  liana  which  hung  from  the 
top  to  the  foot  of  the  granite  wall,  climbed  up,  as  a  mason  would 
do  on  his  knotted  rope.  Although  we  had  but  little  practice  in 


APPENDIX.  361 

this  mode  of  ascent,  \vc  made  the  attempt,  and  by  imitating  them, 
and  profiting  of  the  lianas  that  hung  around  to  aid  us,  we  were 
successful.  The  liana  which  we  saw  appeared  to  us  to  be  the 
same  as  that  which  abounds  in  the  virgin  forests  of  America. 
Its  long  trunk,  which  laces  itself  round  the  tree  and  creeps  there 
every  way,  is  covered  with  a  brown,  stringy,  and  coarse  skin. 
When  it  is  cut  there  flows  from  its  greyish  interior  a  limpid 
water,  without  any  smell,  and  not  having  a  disagreeable  taste. 

"  After  the  great  hunt  came  the  little  one,  which  consisted  in 
some  small  turtles  called,  "poniard  wounds"  from  the  small 
tufts  of  blood-coloured  feathers  which  they  have  on  their  necks. 
AYe  killed  also  two  monkeys  in  the  thicket,  into  which  they  had 
retreated,  and  also  a  gazelle  of  the  kind  which  La  Perouse  de 
scribes  in  his  voyage. 

"  Thus  in  two  days,  one  of  promenade  and  the  other  of  active 
and  fatiguing  hunting,  we  explored  the  greatest  and  the  richest 
portion  of  the  district  of  Laguna  ;  and  there  wre  found  a  country 
fertile  in  rice,  in  pepper,  and  in  indigo  ;  forests  which  afford  the 
finest  wood,  as  wrell  for  drying  as  for  building ;  and  we  also 
learned  from  the  example  of  a  French  colonist,  the  wonderful 
advantages  which  can  be  drawn  from  such  a  soil,  from  such  a 
climate,  from  such  water,  and  from  all  such  nature. 

"  Delighted  with  our  trip,  we  bade  adieu  to  our  hosts,  and  got 
on  board  our  bark,  which  speedily  took  us  back  to  Manilla." 


17. 


TESTIMONY  OF  ADMIRAL  LAPLACE. 


J  GLADLY  accepted  the  pressing  invitation  of  M.  de  La  Giromere, 
our  fellow-countryman,  and  proprietor  of  a  handsome  residence  on 
the  banks  of  the  Laguna,  and  on  the  morning  of  the  1 7th  October, 
accompanied  by  Mr.  Paris  and  by  Mr.  Puissell,  an  American  mer 
chant  of  eminent  respectability,  and  one  of  my  most  agreeable 
acquaintances  at  Bidondo,  I  left  Manilla  in  a  small  boat,  manned 
by  Tagals  in  the  service  of  M.  de  La  Gironiere,  whose  brother 
obligingly  acted  as  pilot.  To  reach  our  destination  we  had  to  ascend 
the  rapid  current  of  the  stream.  At  nine  o'clock  we  halted  at 
Pasig,  a  Tagal  village  of  some  importance,  which  gives  its  name  to 
the  neighbouring  river. 

Breakfast  was  laid  out  on  the  grass,  and  our  hunger  and  good 
spirits  imparted  to  it  a  peculiar  relish.  The  lively  remarks  of  the 
party  on  the  social  scene  around  us  made  the  moments  fly  rapidly. 
Before  us  was  a  wooden  bridge,  partly  destroyed  by  time ;  around 
its  ruins  were  mooted  several  fishing-boats,  with  immense  nets  like 
an  overhanging  cloud  upon  the  water.  M  ear  the  banks  innumer 
able  flocks  of  ducks  furrowed  the  stream  in  every  direction.  The 
number  of  those  domestic  birds,  all  of  the  same  size,  excited  my 
curiosity.  To  my  great  astonishment,  I  learned  that  they  were  the 
produce  of  eggs,  hatched  by  men,  who,  for  a  small  stipend,  have  the 
patience,  or  rather  laziness,  to  lemain  constantly  lying  on  the  future 
ducklings.  For  this  purpose  the  eggs  are  stowed  side  by  side  in  a 
layer  of  ashes,  so  as  to  form  an  even  surface,  protected  by  a  trellifl 


APPENDIX.  363 

frame,  and  covered  thickly  with  wool  or  cotton.  The  whole  appa 
ratus  is  contained  in  a  sort  of  truckle  bed,  slightly  raised  above  the 
floor  of  the  close  hut  in  which  it  is  placed.  Such  is  the  sagacity  of 
this  novel  tribe  of  cluck  hatchers  that  they  can  tell  to  a  moment 
when  the  shells  are  about  to  break ;  then  opening  them  with  great 
*  great  dexterity,  they  allow  the  y.oung  broad  to  run  to  the  river, 
whence  they  return  every  evening  with  a  more  experienced  guide  to 
floating  cages,  fitted  with  little  drawbridges,  which  are  raised  every 
morning,  and  let  down  again  at  night  after  the  flocks  have  returned. 
Indeed,  the  breeding  ducks  at  Luzon,  were  they  twice  as  numerous, 
could  never  supply  the  enormous  consumption  of  their  offspring  by 
the  inhabitants,  who  have  a  national  relish  for  that  kind  of  poultry 
to  the  exclusion  of  all  others. 

After  leaving  Pasig  we  continued  for  some  time  to  coast  along 
grassy  banks  well  shaded  by  trees.  Uneasy  glances  were  cast  on 
us  as  we  passed  by  buffaloes,  lying  listlessly  on  the  sod  awaiting  the 
hour  of  labour,  while  others,  wallowing  in  the  slimy  water,  indicated 
their  presence  only  by  the  loud  snortings  from  their  nostrils,  which 
alone  appeared  above  the  surface  of  the  river. 

The  increasing  rapidity  of  the  current,  patches  of  inundatedland, 
and  the  distance  of  the  rice  plantations  from  the  houses,  soon  ap 
prised  us  that  we  were  approaching  the  Laguna.  We  came  up 
with  extensive  fisheries.  A  quantity  of  long  bamboos,  half  buried 
in  the  slime,  and  bound  together  by  ropes  of  Indian  weed,  rise 
above  the  surface  of  the  water,  notwithstanding  its  great  depth,  like 
partitions.  These  partitions  form  a  narrow  laybrinth,  in  which 
the  fish  getting  more  and  more  entangled  are  ultimately  taken  in 
nets  placed  at  every  outlet.  These  fisheries  bring  large  revenues  to 
the  proprietors  who  consequently  pay  a  heavy  duty,  in  consideration 
of  which  the  government  overlooks  the  many  injurious  effects  to 
navigation,  necessarily  caused  by  such  establishments.  We,  too,  had 
to  encounter  some  of  these  inconveniences,  but  the  magnificent  view 
of  the  lake  extending  before  us  quickly  caused  us  to  forget  them. 
The  Laguna,  of  an  irregular  shape,  may,  according  to  the  Spanish 


SCJ:  APPENDIX. 

estimate,  be  about  thirty  leagues  in  ciicumference,  and  the  general 
depth  varies  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  feet.  This  body  of  fresh 
water  is  supplied  by  a  number  of  streams  descending  from  the 
higher  levels,  which  are  covered  with  sombre  forests,  and  form,  as 
it  were,  the  first  steppe  of  those  different  chains  of  mountains  which 
extend  to  the  interior  of  the  island,  and  lose  their  summits  in  the 
clouds.  The  side  by  which  we  entered  is  the  only  one  where  the 
coast  is  low.  It  was  then  completely  inundated  by  the  overflow 
of  the  lake  during  the  late  rains. 

The  dwelling  to  which  we  were  directing  our  course  was  con 
cealed  from  view  by  islands,  we  were  therefore  obliged  to  pass 
through  one  of  the  deep  and  narrow  channels  between  them ;  but 
a  strong  head  wind  springing  up,  our  little  craft  could  make  no  way, 
and  our  sailors  were  completely  worn  out  with  fatigue.  It  was  four 
o'clock :  all  our  efforts  to  proceed  just  then  would  have  been  vain. 
We  landed  accordingly  at  a  point  that  jutted  into  the  strait,  and 
took  refuge  in  the  hut  of  a  poor  fisherman,  the  only  inhabitant  per 
haps  of  this  little  desert  peninsula.  This  poor  and  unfortunate 
native  of  Luzon,  cut  off"  from  all  human  society,  dependant  for 
support  only  on  his  own  industry,  nevertheless  kuew  how  to  read 
and  write ;  and  this  in  a  country  reduced  by  its  masters  to  the 
lowest  stage  of  ignorance  and  degradation.  How  far  does  not  such 
a  fact  as  this  go  to  redeem  the  charges  made  against  the  monks  of 
Luzon. 

The  part  of  the  coast  on  which  we  had  landed  is  mountainous, 
steep,  thickly  wooded,  and  impassible,  except  to  wild  boars;  it 
presents  a  reef  of  rocks  extending  to  the  bank,  and  terminating  in 
a  sheer  precipice  ;  but  all  this  side  of  the  lake  is  by  no  means  of 
such  difficult  access.  Before  entering  the  little  strait  we  had  passed 
a  beautiful  village,  situated  on  the  extremity  of  a  plain  bounded 
by  mountains. 

Night  was  approaching,  and  we  had  as  yet  made  but  half  our 
journey.  The  breeze,  instead  of  lulling,  which  is  usually  the  case 
before  sunset,  had  increased;  on  the  other  hand,  the  chill  which  wa 


APPENDIX.  865 

began  to  feel,  together  with  the  clouds  of  mosquitoes,  promised  un 
favourably  for  a  night  of  repose  ;  all  these  powerful  considerations, 
nnd  the  rest  that  our  Tagals  had  enjoyed,  decided  us  to  proceed  at 
all  hazards.  Several  times  during  the-  remainder  of  the  passage 
my  travelling  companions  were  alarmed  by  the  swell  of  the  lake 
breaking,  from  time  to  time,  over  our  heavily  laden  boats,  by  tho 
violence  of  the  wind  and  the  intense  darkness.  It  was  eleven 
o'clock  at  night  before  we  reached  our  destination,  drenched,  be- 
immbcd,  and  starving;  but  a  kind  reception,  an  excellent  supper, 
nnd  the  considerate  attentions  of  our  hosts,  followed  by  a  good 
night's  rest,  effectually  revived  and  cheered  us. 

The  proprietor  of  the  residence  where  I  met  with  such  warm 
hospitality  had  left  France  in  1814.  The  signal  services  rendered 
by  him  to  the  colony  during  the  terrible  ravages  of  the  cholera, 
his  worthy  character  and  amiable  disposition,  had  won  him  the 
esteem  and  goodwill  of  the  principal  authorities  of  Manilla,  and 
the  permission,  until  then  steadily  refused,  even  to  Spaniards,  to 
possess  and  cultivate  land  on  the  banks  of  the  Laguna.  Great 
energy  and  perseverance  were  requisite  to  carry  out,  or  even  to 
atterr.pt,  such  a  difficult  task.  These  rare  qualities  were  united  in 
our  fellow-countryman  with  varied  information  and  some  know 
ledge  of  agriculture.  He  gave  up  a  tranquil  and  easy  life,  and 
with  his  wife,  a  pretty  Spaniard,  belonging  to  one  of  the  first 
families  of  the  colony,  he  came  to  found,  in  a  wild  and  almost  un 
inhabited  country,  an  establishment  which,  by  its  astonishing 
progress  and  the  happy  effect  of  example,  has  taught  the  Spaniards 
the  value  of  these  hitherto  reglected  lands,  and  has  thus  opened  to 
the  colony  a  new  source  of  prosperity. 

I  soon  rallied  my  spirits  at  this  delightful  spot  after  the  recent 
depression  of  Manilla ;  I  even  forgot  its  annoyances,  and  rejoiced 
in  the  freedom  which  the  affectionate  attention  of  my  hosts  enabled 
me  to  indulge.  Each  day  brought  some  new  diversion.  Some 
times  we  set  out  early  in  the  morning  on  a  sporting  excursion, 
our  retinue  consisting  of  nine  huntsmen,  many  of  whom,  I  admit, 


866  APPENDIX. 

owed  this  title  chiefly  to  the  fact  of  their  carrying  a  gun.  Our 
accoutrements  were  all  in  keeping  with  the  wild  state  of  the  country. 
They  consisted  of,  for  head  gear  the  salacote,  equally  effective 
against  sun  and  rain,  cloth  jackets,  ample  and  stout  trousers,  and 
thick-soled  shoes.  We  took  with  us  twenty  dogs,  in  rather  poor 
condition  and  of  different  breeds,  but  staunch  veterans,  up  to  any 
fatigue,  and  the  terror  of  stags  and  wild  boars ;  they  could  scarcely 
be  kept  in  order  by  several  pikemen  acting  as  whippers-in.  Lastly 
came  sundry  led  horses,  a  resource  in  case  of  need  for  the  laggards, 
and  the  whole  assemblage,  collected  by  appointment  under  a  huge 
tree,  till  then  standing  in  utter  solitude,  formed  a  "  meet  "  inde 
scribably  novel,  animated,  and  picturesque. 

The  hunt  started  in  the  direction  of  a  lofty  hill,  covered  towards 
its  summit  with  long  grass,  and  thickly  wooded  at  the  sides.  We 
wound  slowly  up  the  acclivity  by  a  scarcely  preceptible  path  :  the 
pikemen  took  the  lead.  Nets  to  insnare  the  game  were  placed  at 
every  pass.  Presently  the  hounds  were  heard  to  give  tongue  in 
the  distance,  and  the  increasing  animation  of  their  cry,  which  every 
moment  became  more  distinct,  proved  them  to  bo  on  the  true 
scent.  At  length  we  reached  the  hunting  ground.  The  post  as 
signed  to  me  was  to  watch  the  nets  and  the  pikemen  placed  at  in 
tervals  to  force  the  stags  to  our  side.  Three  of  these  fine  animals 
had  just  passed  me,  so  rapidly  that  I  had  scarcely  time  to  notice 
them,  and  I  was  in  the  act  of  lamenting  my  want  of  promptness, 
when  a  shot,  followed  by  triumphant  shouts,  went  off  at  a  few 
paces  from  me.  My  host,  an  expert  and  indefatigable  sportsman, 
had  struck  the  animal  as  it  was  bounding  over  a  marsh,  and  about 
to  plunge  into  the  thicket.  Some  of  the  hounds  were  already 
closing  round  the  expiring  prey,  with  flashing  eyes  and  jaws  in 
flamed  and  distended,  as  if  devouring  by  anticipation  the  promised 
reward  of  their  toil.  The  entrails  of  the  victim,  thrown  to  them  by 
a  pikeman,  were  demolished  in  an  instant.  The  body,  slung  across 
a  horse,  was  carried  home  in  triumph,  to  make  its  appearance  at 
supper. 


APPENDIX.  307 

The  concluding  part  of  the  sport  was  not  so  successful  as  might 
have  been  expected  from  this  brilliant  debut.  The  game  took 
refuge  amid  the  steep  acclivities,  where  the  dogs  alone  could  follow 
it.  We  continued,  however,  to  ascend  by  a  circuitous  path,  and  at 
length,  after  having  made  our  way  through  a  quantity  of  long, 
tough,  and  matted  grass,  we  arrived  at  the  summit  of  a  hill,  whence 
we  had  a  magnificent  prospect  of  the  lake.  The  weather  was  serene  ; 
the  water,  like  a  sheet  of  glass,  reflected  the  mid-day  rays  of  the 
sun,  and  threw  a  gorgeous  light  upon  the  distant  pile  of  mountains. 
This  majestic  spectacle  struck  me  as  contrasting  sadly  with  the 
insignificant  works  of  man,  of  which  we  recognised  the  feeble 
effects  on  the  banks  of  the  lake,  forming  an  almost  imperceptible 
speck  in  the  midst  of  the  rich  vegetation  so  lavishly  spread  around 
by  uncultivated  nature.  The  chain  of  islands  stretching  across 
the  Laguna  seemed  to  lie  at  our  feet.  My  attention  was  first  at 
tracted  to  the  smallest  of  these  islets  ;  it  is  round,  and  contains  the 
crater  of  an  extinct  volcano,  into  which  the  sea  has  found  a  passage, 
and  which  abounds  in  fish  as  well  as  crocodiles  of  an  enormous 
size.  The-  curious  spot  awakens  superstitious  terror  in  the  minds 
of  the  Tagals,  who  have  a  strong  repugnance  to  accompany  Euro 
pean  thither. 

Deeply  intent  upon  the  magnificent  and  varied  scene  before  me, 
I  quietly  enjoyed  the  luxury  of  solitude,  the  more  so  that  the 
audible  cries  of  the  huntsmen,  and  the  barking  of  the  dogs,  secured 
me  from  all  apprehension  of  being  molested  by  any  of  the  ferocious 
animals  that  infest  the  country.  But  when  the  chase  sped  down 
the  plains,  which  all  consisted  of  marsh  and  jungle,  my  fears  of 
the  wild  buffaloes  made  me  anxious  to  regain  the  protection  of  the 
hunters.  This  animal,  so  gentle  and  tractable  when  domesticated, 
is  terrible  in  its  untamed  state;  the  sight  of  man  renders  it  fu 
rious,  its  eyes  glare,  its  nostrils  dilate  and  seem  to  breathe  flame,  its 
unwieldy  bulk  becomes  wonderfully  active  in  the  pursuit  of  its 
enemy.  Nothing  can  stop  its  headlong  course  towards  the  unlucky 
sportsman,  whose  ill-aimed  shot  has  missed  or  only  slightly  wounded 


868  APPENDIX. 

it.  The  infuriated  beast  gores  him  with  long  and  sharp  horns ;  or 
should  the  aggressor  seek  to  escape  its  vengeance  by  climbing  up  a 
tree,  the  animal  constantly  keeps  guard  below,  gloating  on  tho 
view  of  its  prisoner,  until  compelled  by  hunger  to  depart.  A  Tagal, 
from  the  village  of  Jala- Jala,  engaged  in  cutting  wood,  had  the  good 
fortune  to  escape  in  this  manner  from  an  enormous  buffalo  that 
attacked  him :  finding  pasturage  in  the  vicinity,  the  buffalo  never 
for  an  instant  lost  sight  of  the  tree  in  which  the  woodcutter  was 
concealed ;  the  poor  fellow  carried  no  arms  except  the  long  knife 
that  the  natives  always  wear  in  their  girdle,  and  which  they  handle 
very  expertly.  Impelled  by  hunger  he  at  last  descended  from  the 
tree,  but  only  to  be  more  vigorously  pursued  than  before.  Juet, 
however,  as  the  terrible  horns  were  withdrawn  for  an  instant  to 
gore  him,  he  contrived  to  seize  hold  of  the  buffalo's  tail  with  his 
left  hand,  whilst  with  his  right  he  stabbed  him  repeatedly  with  his 
knife.  The  astonished  animal  darted  off  like  an  arrow,  but  being 
soon  exhausted  by  loss  of  blood  he  slackened  his  pace,  and  fell 
dead  by  the  side  of  tho  Tagal,  who  was  himself  a  mass  of  wounds 
blood,  and  mire. 

At  these  hunting  parties  I  was  more  a  spectator  than  an  actor, 
but  exercise  restored  my  health,  and  when  I  regaled  myself  at 
dinner  on  the  venison  or  the  wild  boar,  it  mattered  little  to  me 
that  they  had  fallen  by  a  more  practised  hand. 

Shortly  before  sunset  we  generally  commenced  another  less 
fatiguing  chase,  and  one  better  suited  to  my  sporting  talents.  It 
was  that  of  a  specious  of  large,  cunning,  and  mischievous  ape, 
which  made  great  havoc  in  the  sugar  cane  and  rice  plantations. 
These  exploits  bring  it  into  great  odium  with  the  natives,  and 
particularly  the  children,  who  are  obliged  to  mount  guard  day  and 
night  to  protect  the  crops  from  the  ravages  of  the  enemy.  Guided 
by  these  willing  auxiliaries,  and  by  dogs  trained  to  this  novel 
species  of  warfare,  we  easily  tracked  these  apes  to  their  strong 
holds,  then  stratagems,  and  more  frequently  their  nimbleness, 
baffled  our  skill;  but  in  the  long  run,  by  blockading  some  isolated 


APPENDIX.  3G9 

troc,  where  a  number  of  them  had  taken  refuge,  they  were  brought 
down  by  a  discharge  of  musketry,  and  bit  the  dust  with  loud  cries 
of  rage  and  despair.  Their  remains  were  then  ornamentally  sus 
pended  on  the  branches  of  some  tree  near  the  scene  of  their  depre 
dations.  These  animals  are  amazingly  strong,  they  make  enormous 
springs  when  pursued,  and  can  be  stopped  only  by  a  mortal  wound ; 
they  are  no  less  destructive  than  fierce,  and  their  teeth  are  not  less 
formidable  than  those  of  beasts  of  prey. 

In  the  evenings  we  used  to  assemble  round  a  table,  waiting  for 
supper  and  listening  to  the  gossip  of  the  village.  A  little  scandal 
often  crept  into  the  conversation,  and  jokes  would  pass  round  at 
the  expense  of  the  Cure,  a  robust,  jovial,  arid  merry  Tagal,  whose 
breviary  was  the  sum  total  of  his  knowledge,  but  who,  nevertheless, 
had  some  natural  talent  and  a  great  desire  for  instruction.  Not 
over  strict  in  his  own  practice,  he  cordially  detested  the  monks, 
and  had  no  mercy  on  his  parishoners  who  were  defaulters  at  tho 
r.oly  table  or  the  confessional,  the  dues  from  these  sources  form 
ing  the  chief  part  of  his  revenues.  He  was  unmercifully  rallied 
on  the  score  of  a  new  niece,  who,  as  well  as  her  intended,  was, 
according  to  the  usual  custom,  lodged  at  the  presbytery,  until  such 
time  as  her  parent  should  consent  to  the  marriage,  which  ceremony 
was  to  bring  a  handsome  fee  to  the  good  Padre  Miguel. 

The  demoralising  tendency  of  this  custom  in  favour  of  an  ui> 
scrupulous  clergy  is  obvious ;  still  it  goes  far  to  prove  their  influence 
over  a  population,  whose  distrustful  and  jealous  character  they 
have  thus  been  able  to  mould  to  their  wishes. 

Sometimes  the  conversation  took  a  more  serious,  though  to  me 
a  no  less  interesting  turn.  Explanations  were  given  of  the  system 
adopted  to  maintain  order  in  the  populous  districts  destitute  of 
regular  troops,  by  means  of  an  organised  militia,  upon  which 
subject  our  host,  who  was  captain  of  the  corps  stationed  at  Laguna, 
gave  me  detailed  information,  which  led  me  to  conclude  that  tho 
Spanish,  or  rather  monastic  government,  warned  by  past  experience 
had  taken  duo  precautions  against  a  new  attack  of  Europeans. 


370  APPENDIX. 

The  point  where  the  peninsula  of  Jala-Jala  is  connected  with 
the  mainland,  by  mountains  rising  gradually  to  a  considerable 
elevation,  is  remarkable  for  many  picturesque  sites.  To  that  quarter 
therefore,  we  often  directed  our  morning  walks.  The  coast  abounds 
in  rice  plantations,  through  which  we  were  obliged  to  pass,  along 
embankments  constructed  for  the  purpose  of  irrigation.  The  ground, 
moistened  by  previous  rain,  gave  way  beneath  our  weight,  and  wo 
sank  knee  deep  in  the  mud;  but  our  good  humour  and  perseve 
rance  were  unconquerable,  and,  indulging  at  each  other's  expense 
the  merriment  caused  by  our  begrimed  condition,  we  rapidly  scaled 
the  mountain. 

Our  course  was  guided  by  the  distant  roar  of  the  splendid  cas 
cade  to  which  we  were  proceeding.  The  bed  of  the  torrent,  strewn 
with  gigantic  rocks,  among  which  the  water  seethed  and  bubbled  as 
it  clashed  towards  the  lake,  was  our  only  path,  but  of  a  break-neck 
character  at  every  step.  Nothing  however  could  check  us,  and  the 
whole  party  reached  the  spot  without  mishap.  An  admirable  scene 
of  savage  grandeur  then  presented  itself.  From  towering  rocks, 
crowned  as  with  a  canopy  of  majestic  trees,  monster  tendrils  of  the 
liana  hung  in  immense  festoons,  forming  a  vast  and  gloomy  vault, 
deepened  to  sepulchral  darkness  by  a  cloudy  sky.  Here  the  torrent, 
swollen  by  long  rains,  dashed  with  a  stunning  noise  down  the  pre 
cipitous  cliffs,  and,  bounding  over  the  huge  stones  piled  below, 
expanded  into  a  beautiful  sheet  of  foam,  and  sped  its  impetuous 
course  through  the  ravines.  All  animals  seemed  to  have  fled  this 
spot,  and  its  gloom  and  isolation  inspired  an  involuntary  emotion 
of  fear.  Neither  the  song  of  birds,  nor  the  hum  of  insects  was  to 
be  heard  ;  our  sounds  alone  mingled  with  the  monotonous  sound  of 
the  water-fall.  Some  lugubrious  bats,  the  only  tenants  of  this  soli 
tude,  emerged  from  the  clefts  of  the  rocks,  and  wheeled  in  circles 
above  us,  yet  the  'report  of  a  gun  seemed  to  cause  them  no  ad 
ditional  alarm.  At  length,  after  much  fatigue  and  some  risk,  wo 
reached  the  summit  of  the  cascade,  by  means  of  the  branches  of  the 
liana,  one  of  which,  breaking  in  my  hand,  left  me  on  a  rugged  and 


APPENDIX  871 

slippery  rock.  I  was  in  a  groat  dilemma,  and,  until  rescued  by  my 
friends,  bad  borrible  misgivings  tbat  my  untimely  fato  would  add  a 
tragical  celebrity  to  the  cascade*of  Jala-Jala. 

After  enjoying  for  a  considerate  time  this  new  and  picturesque 
scene,  we  quitted  tile  waterfall  and  pushed  on  through  the  wood  to 
inspect  some  of  the  objects  of  curiosity, — one  of  them,  a  brook 
of  singularly  limpid  water,  acrid  1o  tho  taste,  and  depositing  j 
a  slight  sediment,  resembling  in  colour  oxide  of  copper.  It 
may,  perhaps,  have  washed  in  its  course  some  veins  of  that  metal. 
The  natives  do  not  consider  it  unwholesome,  yet  they  rarely  drink 
it.  I  thought  the  taste  disagreable,  and  for  some  time  after 
drinking  it  my  mouth  and  throat  felt  unusually  parched.  I  re 
marked  in  these  mountains  the  liane  da  voyageur,  so  common  in  the 
forests  of  America ;  its  long  tendrils,  covered  with  brown  fibrous 
and  thick  bark,  fell  in  festoons  from  the  apex  of  a  large  tree,  that 
seemed  bending  under  their  weighty  net- work.  From  the  stem  that 
I  cut,  a  few  feet  above  the  ground,  flowed,  through  large  pores  of 
greyish  and  well-compacted  pulp,  a  stream  of  fresh  clear  water, 
which  had  no  perceptible  odour  nor  any  nauseous  taste.  Thus  has 
all-provident  Nature  placed  this  plant  in  the  burning  climate  of 
the  New  World,  and  of  the  Asiatic  Archipelago,  as  an  immediate 
resource  to  those  unfortunate  human  beings  whose  lot  it  is  to 
traverse  the  vast  forests  of  these  regions. 

Surrounded  by  such  delightful  amusements,  and  treated  with  the 
kindest  attention  by  my  host  and  charming  family,  I  felt  the  days 
glide  away  too  rapidly.  My  health  was  perfectly  restored.  The 
north-east  monsoon  was  about  to  set  in,  and  the  fine  season  had  com 
menced.  I  was  therefore  compelled  to  resign  the  delights  of  so 
soothing  a  mode  of  life,  and  to  return  to  Manilla,  there  to  make 
arrangements  for  quitting  Luzon.  I  took  leave  with  real  regret,  and 
the  kind  concern  testified  by  M.  de  La  Gironiere  and  his  whole 
family  at  my  departure,  increased  my  earnest  desire  to  meet  them 
again  at  some  future  period. 


TESTIMONY  OF  M.  MALLAT. 

SPEAKING  of  Jala-Jala,  M.  Mallat,  a  French  geographer,  and 
author  of  a  work  on  the  Philippines,  says : — "  The  neighbourhood 
of  the  lake  abounds  in  every  kind  of  game,  and  the  lake  itself  is 
covered  with  wild-fowl.  The  property  of  Jala-Jala,  which  may  be 
looked  upon  as  a  kind  of  model  farm,  contains  vast  woods,  where 
the  stag  and  the  wild-boar  are  hunted.  On  all  sides  horses  and 
oxen  are  met  with,  which  the  proprietor  sells  to  the  dealers  from. 
Manilla. 

"  The  lake  abounds  with  fish,  and  daily  supplies  the  market  of 
Manilla.  Its  borders  are  inhabited  by  caymans,  or  crocodiles, 
amongst  which  some  enormous  specimens  are  to  be  met  with; 
as,  for  example,  the  monster  that  one  day  M.  de  La  Gironiere, 
the  intrepid  occupant  of  Jala-Jala,  took  by  nets  and  killed.  It 
is  in  the  narrows  of  Quinabutasan  that  these  animals  mostly 
abound,  but  they  are  not  the  only  predatoiy  creatures  encountered 
upon  the  lake,  which  is  infested  by  pirogues  worked  by  piratical 
robbers." 


THE   END. 


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